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The colors are molded in, not a coating. Thank you,
Justin
For the green or tan versions we just need your email to get you on the list. They're a few weeks out yet, we don't take pre-payment, only when it is ready to ship do we accept payment. You can still call if you have questions though. Thank you,
Justin
How do you get in on the intro pricing? Went to the website and it showed them at full price. Went to check out and the price changed to 10,000 with only 1 chassis in the cart...
Send Josh an e-mail to get on the list.
I guess I must be stupid. Not sure who Josh is, but when I go to Massoud's profile page there is no email listed. Sent my email and a brief description to KRG on the little contact us pop up.
Hi Fellas,
Here's some answers:
-All of our chassis come with small grips installed now (started with gen 3 Whiskey-3). We will have the large grips available in Sako Green so you can get those instead of the smaller ones.
-The FDE color will be matched as close as possible to Magpul FDE.
-Shipping is free with a check payment but the site doesn't know to take it off of there when checking out so you just have to send in a check for that amount minus the shipping
-An AW mag will fit in there but the issue is that it won't fit up into most actions apart from some of the Rem clone actions that have a magwell cut for the AW mag. The outer dimensions of the two mags are very close apart from the feedlips and the length of course.
On another note, X-rays for the T3 are now shipping!
Thanks guys,
Justin
Did the CG Jackson trigger drop in without modification?It's a little too eurofag with the black and stainless so I'm going to give it some green and brown.
View attachment 37000
(223 mag is for effect as my 308 mags weren't accessible)
Yeah, it looks like the spigot mount is a must have for the X-ray.
I installed a Timney 517 trigger on my x-ray chassis and the safety is hard to move. Anyone had this issue or suggestions to resolve it ?
Just got my email, will be ordering soon...
Question regarding the rear sling mounting options. The email explained some, but I'm just wondering whether the Sling Loop/QD Mount and/or the QD Sling Cup can be mounted on both sides of the butt stock at the same time to make it ambidextrous, or only one side at a time?
Meaning, can I install a Sling Loop/QD Mounts on both sides of the butt stock at the same time, so in the event I need to switch sling to the other side during a match, I won't have to unscrew and re-install the Sling Loop/QD Mount to the other side? I already purchased the Ambi Sling/QD Mount for the front already so would like the rear locations to be ambidextrous as well.
Thanks.
I use a biathlon sling, and I like having it side mounted. No side mounting options up front on the X-ray forend make that hard. I think the spigot mount with the bipod closer to the bore and the side mounting options is a no-brainer.
Mine is a QD sling mount on the side of the spigot mount. If you're looking for options WITHOUT using the spigot mount, you should specifically ask for that.
I installed a Timney 517 trigger on my x-ray chassis and the safety is hard to move. Anyone had this issue or suggestions to resolve it ?
Yes. I posted a thread on this, and at least one other user had an issue. Our issue was the little pin that moves in and out when you actuate the safety. As was recommended to me, mount the action in the chassis and loosen the bolts enough to work the safety with some friction. Work it back and forth a lot and see if you can get it to mark the chassis (the pin on the Timney is a hardened steel vs the soft aluminum of the chassis, so this wasn't too difficult). Once I had the spot marred, I used a set of very small hobby files to cut a small slot in the chassis where the rubbing was. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, I was so excited to get the safety working, I forgot to take a photo of the trough I mounted and torqued the action.
I will say that the chassis rocks, and the modularity exceeded my expectations (I'm a new large caliber "precision" shooter). I moved up from one of the B&C M40 stocks that everyone used in a "budget" precision build. I was a little surprised how much "play" there was with the action in the chassis (Remington 700 SA/AAC-SD in .308), but I feel like I got it trued to the best of my abilities-don't have any tools or jigs to make this fit correct.
Yes. I posted a thread on this, and at least one other user had an issue. Our issue was the little pin that moves in and out when you actuate the safety. As was recommended to me, mount the action in the chassis and loosen the bolts enough to work the safety with some friction. Work it back and forth a lot and see if you can get it to mark the chassis (the pin on the Timney is a hardened steel vs the soft aluminum of the chassis, so this wasn't too difficult). Once I had the spot marred, I used a set of very small hobby files to cut a small slot in the chassis where the rubbing was. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, I was so excited to get the safety working, I forgot to take a photo of the trough I mounted and torqued the action.
I will say that the chassis rocks, and the modularity exceeded my expectations (I'm a new large caliber "precision" shooter). I moved up from one of the B&C M40 stocks that everyone used in a "budget" precision build. I was a little surprised how much "play" there was with the action in the chassis (Remington 700 SA/AAC-SD in .308), but I feel like I got it trued to the best of my abilities-don't have any tools or jigs to make this fit correct.
For those that have a Timney trigger and are not wanting to modify their new chassis, the safety plunger (on my 510) is very easy to modify.
On the left side is a C clip. On the right, the safety becomes a flat triangle piece that pivots at the bottom.
Squeeze the trigger assembly (left & right sides) and pop the C clip.
The assembly will want to spring apart, so carefully separate the safely lever from the housing, and the safely plunger (and small spring) will fall free.
I trimmed the shaft of the safely plunger with a grinder down to no less than 0.310", rounded the edges, and hit it with a K-B cold blue pen.
Put the trigger assembly back together, and you should have plenty of clearance to get the action squared up with no interference.
Hi Randy,
Your best option will be the Ambi QD mount. It mounts where the spigot goes but is smaller and cheaper by a lot and gives you a QD mount point on either side or the bottom, or you can use a sling with a hook/HK clip. There's a pic in the very first post of it mounted.
Thanks fellas for all your business as I mentioned, it's been lively around here.
Justin
I'm waiting on my email for a green t3 stock.
Is there a rail attachment for a qd bipod mount? Not interested in a spigot.