New X-Ray Chassis from KRG-now shipping!

For the green or tan versions we just need your email to get you on the list. They're a few weeks out yet, we don't take pre-payment, only when it is ready to ship do we accept payment. You can still call if you have questions though. Thank you,
Justin

Email sent. I only have one more question for you so I'll just put it here in case someone else is wondering.


I see that you have two different size grips available. Which size comes on the X-ray as standard equipment? I wear XXL gloves so I will most likely want the larger set. If they are not the ones included, will I be able to purchase them in sako green to match the chassis?
 
I'm fairly interested in a purchase of the color X-Ray but had a question. I see that Sako Green was confirmed but what about the FDE/Tan. Do you have a picture example of the color. Interested to see if it is more the darker tan or lighter or Magpul style FDE or a desert tan style. Thank you again!
 
Just got my email that the Tikka T3 X-rays are shipping. I ordered one, but I have a question on whether shipping is free or not when you pay with a check. But super excited to bolt my Tikka into this when it ships.
 
Hi Fellas,
Here's some answers:
-All of our chassis come with small grips installed now (started with gen 3 Whiskey-3). We will have the large grips available in Sako Green so you can get those instead of the smaller ones.
-The FDE color will be matched as close as possible to Magpul FDE.
-Shipping is free with a check payment but the site doesn't know to take it off of there when checking out so you just have to send in a check for that amount minus the shipping
-An AW mag will fit in there but the issue is that it won't fit up into most actions apart from some of the Rem clone actions that have a magwell cut for the AW mag. The outer dimensions of the two mags are very close apart from the feedlips and the length of course.

On another note, X-rays for the T3 are now shipping!
Thanks guys,
Justin
 
Got mine today from a sopping wet FedEx driver.
I have a CG Jackson trigger on my R700and it dropped right in.
Remembering to install the spigot first, that's another story.
Thanks Justin!
 
I guess I must be stupid. Not sure who Josh is, but when I go to Massoud's profile page there is no email listed. Sent my email and a brief description to KRG on the little contact us pop up.

Justin Is Massoud, Massoud is Justin, just as his signature says on all of his posts in this thread. .
At the bottom of his last post above, there is a link to KRG's website. On their site, find the e-mail through "contact us" or [email protected]
 
Hi Fellas,
Here's some answers:
-All of our chassis come with small grips installed now (started with gen 3 Whiskey-3). We will have the large grips available in Sako Green so you can get those instead of the smaller ones.
-The FDE color will be matched as close as possible to Magpul FDE.
-Shipping is free with a check payment but the site doesn't know to take it off of there when checking out so you just have to send in a check for that amount minus the shipping
-An AW mag will fit in there but the issue is that it won't fit up into most actions apart from some of the Rem clone actions that have a magwell cut for the AW mag. The outer dimensions of the two mags are very close apart from the feedlips and the length of course.

On another note, X-rays for the T3 are now shipping!
Thanks guys,
Justin

Justin,

Any ETA on W3C/X-Ray spigots being back in stock?
 
It's a little too eurofag with the black and stainless so I'm going to give it some green and brown.
IMG_2542.JPG
(223 mag is for effect as my 308 mags weren't accessible)
 
Just got my email, will be ordering soon...

Question regarding the rear sling mounting options. The email explained some, but I'm just wondering whether the Sling Loop/QD Mount and/or the QD Sling Cup can be mounted on both sides of the butt stock at the same time to make it ambidextrous, or only one side at a time?

Meaning, can I install a Sling Loop/QD Mounts on both sides of the butt stock at the same time, so in the event I need to switch sling to the other side during a match, I won't have to unscrew and re-install the Sling Loop/QD Mount to the other side? I already purchased the Ambi Sling/QD Mount for the front already so would like the rear locations to be ambidextrous as well.

Thanks.
 
I installed a Timney 517 trigger on my x-ray chassis and the safety is hard to move. Anyone had this issue or suggestions to resolve it ?

remove your action and check that it is installed level. First time i bolted my Tac30 in the pin that protrudes on the timney when you engage the safety was hitting the trigger guard area. i removed the action screws and then just held the action in by hand and the safety worked fine...installed the screws again and it works fine now all torqued down...somehow i had the action very slightly canted...it looked straight but was off just enough for that pin to hit...chassis is awesome btw...switched my barreled action from a whiskey3 to the xray and matched the length of pull and cheek piece height and after some slight adjustments to my zero it was shooting tiny groups just the same.
 
I use a biathlon sling, and I like having it side mounted. No side mounting options up front on the X-ray forend make that hard. I think the spigot mount with the bipod closer to the bore and the side mounting options is a no-brainer.
 
Just got my email, will be ordering soon...

Question regarding the rear sling mounting options. The email explained some, but I'm just wondering whether the Sling Loop/QD Mount and/or the QD Sling Cup can be mounted on both sides of the butt stock at the same time to make it ambidextrous, or only one side at a time?

Meaning, can I install a Sling Loop/QD Mounts on both sides of the butt stock at the same time, so in the event I need to switch sling to the other side during a match, I won't have to unscrew and re-install the Sling Loop/QD Mount to the other side? I already purchased the Ambi Sling/QD Mount for the front already so would like the rear locations to be ambidextrous as well.

Thanks.


I did not get a response to my original question posted above, so I sent an email to KRG directly and received the following response:


"Info" <[email protected]> wrote:

Hello Sir!
The Sling Loop/QD mount can only be installed on one side unless you get
creative. You could run a long screw all the way through both mounts and
the buttstock and put a nut on the back side but we don't know if that would
work. For the QD cup, what you'll want to do is get one of the the cups
that is threaded for a screw to go into it. It's from Magpul and is the
Type 2:
http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG332/187

You can get both of them from Magpul, a Type 1 and Type 2. The one we sell
is the Type 1. The screw that comes with the type 1 from Magpul should go
through the Type 1, through the buttstock, and thread into the type 2. You
might need to find a shorter or longer screw though. The screw that comes
with the X-ray is metric and has a metric nut. Magpul uses standard so it
will be a 10-32 or 10-24 most likely.

Thank you!
KRG

Kinetic Research Group

www.KRG-OPS.com


Hopefully this will help anyone else who also wanted to have an ambi QD option for the rear of the stock as well. I have placed an order for the Type 2 QD cup from Magpul and will see how much modification I'll have to do with the screw when it comes (probably go to ACE Hardware for those standard screws).
 
I just installed mine last night, and I have no doubt the included screw (and nut) would capture two QD sling cups. The included screw was a tick longer then necessary to hold one QD cup.

Also, with only one sling cup, you install a washer on the backside under the nut (so the nut is not rotating on the plastic) but if you install a QD sling cup, you can delete that washer since the sling cup acts as a washer. And I don't think the sling cup is a whole lot thicker at it's bottom than the washer.

Scott
 
Hi Randy,
Your best option will be the Ambi QD mount. It mounts where the spigot goes but is smaller and cheaper by a lot and gives you a QD mount point on either side or the bottom, or you can use a sling with a hook/HK clip. There's a pic in the very first post of it mounted.

Thanks fellas for all your business as I mentioned, it's been lively around here.
Justin
 
I installed a Timney 517 trigger on my x-ray chassis and the safety is hard to move. Anyone had this issue or suggestions to resolve it ?

Yes. I posted a thread on this, and at least one other user had an issue. Our issue was the little pin that moves in and out when you actuate the safety. As was recommended to me, mount the action in the chassis and loosen the bolts enough to work the safety with some friction. Work it back and forth a lot and see if you can get it to mark the chassis (the pin on the Timney is a hardened steel vs the soft aluminum of the chassis, so this wasn't too difficult). Once I had the spot marred, I used a set of very small hobby files to cut a small slot in the chassis where the rubbing was. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, I was so excited to get the safety working, I forgot to take a photo of the trough I mounted and torqued the action.

I will say that the chassis rocks, and the modularity exceeded my expectations (I'm a new large caliber "precision" shooter). I moved up from one of the B&C M40 stocks that everyone used in a "budget" precision build. I was a little surprised how much "play" there was with the action in the chassis (Remington 700 SA/AAC-SD in .308), but I feel like I got it trued to the best of my abilities-don't have any tools or jigs to make this fit correct.
 

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Yes. I posted a thread on this, and at least one other user had an issue. Our issue was the little pin that moves in and out when you actuate the safety. As was recommended to me, mount the action in the chassis and loosen the bolts enough to work the safety with some friction. Work it back and forth a lot and see if you can get it to mark the chassis (the pin on the Timney is a hardened steel vs the soft aluminum of the chassis, so this wasn't too difficult). Once I had the spot marred, I used a set of very small hobby files to cut a small slot in the chassis where the rubbing was. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, I was so excited to get the safety working, I forgot to take a photo of the trough I mounted and torqued the action.

I will say that the chassis rocks, and the modularity exceeded my expectations (I'm a new large caliber "precision" shooter). I moved up from one of the B&C M40 stocks that everyone used in a "budget" precision build. I was a little surprised how much "play" there was with the action in the chassis (Remington 700 SA/AAC-SD in .308), but I feel like I got it trued to the best of my abilities-don't have any tools or jigs to make this fit correct.

I have a Timney as well, so that photo will come in handy when my stock arrives.

Damn, I'm getting excited now. I'm upgrading from a B&C Medalist/Light Tactical that I dremeled out for PTG bottom metal, so moving to a real chassis is going to be a great upgrade for me. The B&C was just a touch too short for my gorilla arms, and I wanted a better method of shooting off barricades/windows than jamming the front of the magazine against them.

Now I just need for the spigot mounts to come back in stock so I can finish all my planned tweaks.
 
Mine is arriving tomorrow, should be fun...

Is it safe to assume that whatever modifications that was needed to fit the Timney 517 will be needed for the 510 model as well? I've read about some that just drop in with no modifications needed, and then others that have problems; not sure how the tolerance between these two parts can vary that much unless the action it is mounted to has something to do with it... If I have that same problem, I'm thinking about modifying the pin on the trigger itself (grind it shorter) than touching the chassis, unless that is not recommended.

Will be comparing the X-Ray to the AICS 1.5 chassis I currently have my barreled action in. I can't see the accuracy of the rifle improving all that much but the balance of the rifle will definitely be different (front heavy) with the lighter X-Ray. Hope this won't be a deal breaker as I really want the X-Ray to work for me... Will see tomorrow! :)
 
Yes. I posted a thread on this, and at least one other user had an issue. Our issue was the little pin that moves in and out when you actuate the safety. As was recommended to me, mount the action in the chassis and loosen the bolts enough to work the safety with some friction. Work it back and forth a lot and see if you can get it to mark the chassis (the pin on the Timney is a hardened steel vs the soft aluminum of the chassis, so this wasn't too difficult). Once I had the spot marred, I used a set of very small hobby files to cut a small slot in the chassis where the rubbing was. See the attached photo. Unfortunately, I was so excited to get the safety working, I forgot to take a photo of the trough I mounted and torqued the action.

I will say that the chassis rocks, and the modularity exceeded my expectations (I'm a new large caliber "precision" shooter). I moved up from one of the B&C M40 stocks that everyone used in a "budget" precision build. I was a little surprised how much "play" there was with the action in the chassis (Remington 700 SA/AAC-SD in .308), but I feel like I got it trued to the best of my abilities-don't have any tools or jigs to make this fit correct.


Thanks so much. That picture was very helpful.
 
Although I ended up with a Whiskey-3 and not an X-Ray, I'd just like to take a moment to thank Justin and KRG for their absolutely outstanding customer service and excellent products.
THANK YOU!

To those about to modify your new chassis - why not just modify the trigger instead?
For those that have a Timney trigger and are not wanting to modify their new chassis, the safety plunger (on my 510) is very easy to modify.

On the left side is a C clip. On the right, the safety becomes a flat triangle piece that pivots at the bottom.
Squeeze the trigger assembly (left & right sides) and pop the C clip.
The assembly will want to spring apart, so carefully separate the safely lever from the housing, and the safely plunger (and small spring) will fall free.

I trimmed the shaft of the safely plunger with a grinder down to no less than 0.310", rounded the edges, and hit it with a K-B cold blue pen.

Put the trigger assembly back together, and you should have plenty of clearance to get the action squared up with no interference.
 
Foreend attachment point

Hi Randy,
Your best option will be the Ambi QD mount. It mounts where the spigot goes but is smaller and cheaper by a lot and gives you a QD mount point on either side or the bottom, or you can use a sling with a hook/HK clip. There's a pic in the very first post of it mounted.

Thanks fellas for all your business as I mentioned, it's been lively around here.
Justin

So you are saying the chassis has no attachment point on the for-end ? This does not seem like a desirable design feature. It forces the user to purchase the spigot or Ambi mount in order to use a sling. Why not just drill a hole behind the MOE pad that the bipod uses or a QD hole on the side ? It doesn't seem like a very difficult problem or cost issue to include an attachment point like this. I really don't want to be made to use the spigot or ambi mount on my chassis. Thanks.
 
Hello gents, as mentioned the include MOE L2 rail will fit up front and can be used with a bipod. We also make an aluminum L2 rail which are currently sold out but should be back in stock soon.

As for the QD mounts, the entire chassis is aluminum and polymer save for 2 steel parts (and the screws). We do not think it's a good idea to cut QD mounts into aluminum and of course not polymer. All the sling mount options are steel and are mostly optional items except on the Whiskey-3 which has one built in.

Also, spigot mounts are about a week out roughly.

Thanks for all your orders guys,
Justin
 
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