Ok. So I am literally on my 10th case of my reloading career. I have some once fired 338 Norma Mag brass from Norma. I had previously deprimed and cleaned the brass. I started out by spraying the cases with lube and started full length sizing. On the 10th case, I ran the brass into the sizing die, but when I tried to extract, the case holder ripped the cartridge rim completely off. So, the rimless cartridge is stuck in the die. I am hoping this isn’t a common occurrence. Any help on what I should do to get the case out?
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Newbie help - case rim tore off
- Thread starter Thunderkok
- Start date
Had a similar issue when I first started reloading and didn't think I was going to get the case out after using a spray lube. It almost happened a second time and it was then I decided to use a different lube and switched to Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I haven't ever had such a problem since and it's been many years and many thousands of reloads. So, that would be my recommendation . . . especially for a newbie.
As far as what to do with your current die with the case body stuck, I'd simply get a new die or maybe hire a machinist to get it removed.
You didn’t use enough lube, or maybe you didn’t wait for the liquid carrier evaporate off which is just as bad as not enough lube.
Get the decapping rod out of the die leaving it gutted, stick a punch down the hole and smack it out with a hammer. Freeze and heat may help as with all things wedged stuck.
What brand and model of die?
And just so you know, take measurements and write em down.
Get the decapping rod out of the die leaving it gutted, stick a punch down the hole and smack it out with a hammer. Freeze and heat may help as with all things wedged stuck.
What brand and model of die?
And just so you know, take measurements and write em down.
RCBS stuck case remover, or you can make one yourself. Lots of YouTube videos on it.
Wait, did he tear the entire case head off or just the rim?i would try using a broken shell extractor
PT&G Broken Case Extractor - Pacific Tool and Gauge
pacifictoolandgauge.com
If you tore the whole case head off, and it’s just an empty hole where the case head should be, fuck that used brass. You’re asking for a case head separation with a shit load of slow burning powder.
If it was just the rim and the case head is still there, lots of good suggestions already.
If it was just the rim and the case head is still there, lots of good suggestions already.
Like spife said, pull the decapping pin out...
Heat that die up with a torch for 1 -2 min...
Stick the largest punch you have down into the case...
Bang it out with a bfh
What were you using for case lube? Some guys have good luck with OneShot. The rest of us stay away from it like the plague. The only stuck cases I've ever had were with OneShot.
I’d get the rcbs stuck case remover shown above. Easy to use and something you should have on hand anyways. Easy enough to make but only $20 if you choose to buy
This^^^ and while you are at it a tin of Redding Imperial Case Sizing WaxI’d get the rcbs stuck case remover shown above. Easy to use and something you should have on hand anyways. Easy enough to make but only $20 if you choose to buy
Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2oz White
Imperial Sizing Die wax is the original non-liquid sizing die lube. One 2 oz tin will full length resize several thousand cases. Makes forming of cases...
www.midwayusa.com
SPRAY CASE LUBES MUST BE GIVEN TIME TO DRY BEFORE SIZING. Like at least 30 minutes for the alcohol or solvent to flash off, leaving a tacky but NON-LIQUID film. Better yet, get some Imperial case sizing wax and get rid of the One-shit spray.
ETA: I'll never be without a stuck case remover again if I can help it.
ETA: I'll never be without a stuck case remover again if I can help it.
... True Dat ... learned it the hard way. It cost me a Redding Type-S FL Die that I murdered trying to remove a stuck case.
Dillon case lube is a great one also if you do end up looking for another type of lube.
I use the Hornady spray case lube and it works just fine for me and is faster, easier, cleaner than wiping wax on with my fingers.
I guess I'll keep using it until it screws me over then I'll be like the rest of you guys in hating it! haha
Cheers
I guess I'll keep using it until it screws me over then I'll be like the rest of you guys in hating it! haha
Cheers
Best spray lube is Royal Case & Die. Tried One Shot, it's fine but went back to the Royal. Its like Imperial wax but in a spray application.
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I never had a problem with it because I can follow directions.
That said I use the home brew lanolin primarily just because of cost but I always keep a can of one shot on the bench for the one offs because its easier to wipe the single piece clean with to me.
Lots of good suggestions above, and some not so good. Buy a stuck case remover to get the case out of your die and review your lube procedures. You can assemble the stuff to remove the case from the die but by buying a kit you get it in a die box which makes it easier to store and keep up with.
One shot is good on smaller cases (6BR and 6.5cm in my experience) but @Strykervet 's case lube was godly when he was making it. I've sized thousands of pieces of brass over the last couple years and used a 1/4" of a spray bottle. If he does another run one day, I would highly recommend.
The slipperiest lube I've ever used is 5W30 full synthetic motor oil. The molecules of this oil are much smaller than traditional motor oil; they get in to just about anywhere! It is way better than sprays, graphite or wax. It's, in my opinion, the most slippery stuff on the planet. I had to do something when I tried to resize 50 Beowulf cases with the above mentioned lubes. I had to alomst stand on the Rockchucker handle to get the case in and the rim was in great jeopardy of being torn off in trying to remove the case. With the 5W30, the case slips in and out smoothly and, comparatively, effortlessly. Yes you do have to cleaqn the cases a second time, but it's worth it, not to compromise the integrity of your cases, think future case head separation and other nightmares just waiting for you!
Been using RCBS lube and pad for half a century. No stuck case yet. Not even close. I suspect rolling cases on the pad provides better coverage than spray. Probably cheaper, too. The pad might take a bit more time, but not as long as removing a stuck case.
This was the biggest damned problem for me when I started reloading. It was on 270 win and 6.5 Creedmoor......later on 338 Lapua. I don't load pistol, don't load 223, all too cheap to bother, even these days. But I was sticking those cases in the dies and barely pulling them out except for the one trophy die that still has the case in it. I used Hornady sprays, couldn't figure them out, know they have to work, tried light, tried heavy, NOPE. Tried some snuff cannisters of lubes, nothing worked. Graduated to using graphite, SWEET, it worked. BUT WHAT A DAMNED MESS. Finally I read somewhere about Lee's Resizing Lubricant, and HAVE NEVER LOOKED BACK. Comes in a tube, about the consistency of toothpaste or lighter, put a little dab on your fingers and rub the case neck primarily, then go back with a Q-tip and put a dab inside the mouth......not more seizing up!!!!! You can just leave it on the shell, if it's messy then you're putting on a bit too much.....or you can towel it off (I do), or you can tumble it (but then you need to clean out the flash holes again). PS: My very favorite online "mentor" is Erik Cortina on YouTube, tons of great info about reloading.
I'm a machinist. Send it to me. Preferably before you FUBAR itHad a similar issue when I first started reloading and didn't think I was going to get the case out after using a spray lube. It almost happened a second time and it was then I decided to use a different lube and switched to Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I haven't ever had such a problem since and it's been many years and many thousands of reloads. So, that would be my recommendation . . . especially for a newbie.
As far as what to do with your current die with the case body stuck, I'd simply get a new die or maybe hire a machinist to get it removed.
Cheaper to buy new unless you're dealing with carbide and high end dies. And carbide shouldn't be sticking.
Been reloading for 16yrs and I’m still on my first tin of Imperial Wax.
I've been reloading all kinds of calibers for 40 years using the same RCBS case lube pad and a small bottle of the best case lube out there. "STP". I think when you get down to it, all case lubes are basically the same stuff, 120 Wt. oil of some sort. STP works like a charm and Ive never had a stuck case.
lifetime supply of wax used up.. always reminds me of this Chappelle sceneRcbs stuck case remover and Imperial wax will make your life easier. Oh, and get a Grip'N Pull also!
Let me know how many years it takes to empty the can!
Can anyone comment on the difference between the RCBS Stuck Case Remover (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011809648?pid=504741) and the Stuck Case Remover 2 (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011923380?pid=605425).
Thinking it'll be good insurance if this happens.
Thinking it'll be good insurance if this happens.
The 2 has the hex nut to help get the decapping guts out of the die and then you hammer the empty brass out with the rod.
The normal has you tap and thread the case head itself and use the bolt to torque the case out of the die.
Two different products to push the case out or to pull it out.
I think the spray is inferior. It may be causing a suction lock. In any event, on two different calibers I had trouble which disappeared with two other lubes. I settled on Lyman case lube. Another possible reason for spray lube failure might be displacement under the pressure thus die contact without lube.Had a similar issue when I first started reloading and didn't think I was going to get the case out after using a spray lube. It almost happened a second time and it was then I decided to use a different lube and switched to Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I haven't ever had such a problem since and it's been many years and many thousands of reloads. So, that would be my recommendation . . . especially for a newbie.
As far as what to do with your current die with the case body stuck, I'd simply get a new die or maybe hire a machinist to get it removed.
This… case lube on a pad.
I have two pads… one is about 40 years old!!! Pour on felt, flip pad and use the side that was at the “bottom.” When it dries out some, go to the other pad, but flip it. Always using the bottom is the best distribution of lube that has soaked through the pad. Keep lining the top, but flipping the pad to get at the “bottom” where the lube is even.
Spray lube is asking for stuck cases. And w. Case lube a little goes a lonnnnnng way.
Sirhr
Is it fair to say they solve two different problems, for example #1 does not work if you rip off the base of the case? #2 is only $8 it seems owning both is easy.
They solve the same problem, just from opposite ends of the case.
A case head pulled off isnt the same as a rim missing from the remaining case head. And if the case head is gone then neither would work to extract the remaining brass body as those two tools put the force onto the case head. Usually thats an issue with it being in the barrel after firing than in the sizing die.
If you do rip the entire case head off, like you said now, instead of what’s in the OP with just the rim then your case head separation was already eminent and it’s not due to an oversized base wedging itself in the die. A simple brass shotgun brush pushed partway up inside and reversed to act as barbs and pulled out would usually be enough to get that remaining brass body out. Or a pick to peel it down and away from the die or chamber walls would let it fall out as well.
Case head gone is not the same as a rim tore off.
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Carbide dies will stick cases too. When dealing with bottle neck cases they need lube just like other dies.
I switched to Redding Imperial Sizing Wax after a similar issue. If it’s a Redding die, you can ship it back to them and for the cost of a stuck case remover, they’ll send you a stuck case remover and a sample of imperial sizing wax.
As you resize more brass, you’ll learn the feel of it. If it ever takes too much pressure to push the case in (before shoulder bump) or feels gritty, back the case out, lube again, and then try. Any extra force on the way in can indicate a potential stuck case in the making.
As you resize more brass, you’ll learn the feel of it. If it ever takes too much pressure to push the case in (before shoulder bump) or feels gritty, back the case out, lube again, and then try. Any extra force on the way in can indicate a potential stuck case in the making.
I'm probably over lubing; but I used a tin pretty quick. (1500) 308 cases and 1100 +or- of 556.
I've had a couple stuck cases with One Shot. Took the die apart, got the case out thankfully.
I need to just make some. What is it 90% alcohol and lanolin mixed 2 to 1?
10:1
And it’s 99%, not 90
Used it for few years now, and done several thousands .223 Brass using it just last month, Lanolin mix is pretty good all-around . Full-size and Necking-Up Brass I got no complaints using it .
I use a Coffee mug warmer plate ( set on Low ) , on the bench, and keep the spray bottle of lanolin mix sitting on it . Spray Prep. a couple hundred brass at a time . Works great also when you take a Q-tip and swipe inside of the Necks with the Lanolin mix .
With using any type of Case Lube . With the bigger Brass with more fiction surface like 300wm, I always take it really slow on the 1st Brass of a full-length sizing just to season-in the Die . That 1st Brass I will always do several little back-forth movements to season the inside of the Die .
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I have had trouble with inconsistent shoulder bump when I didn't let the mix sit on the brass long enough for all the alcohol to evaporate.
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I did 10:1 for several batches....but the last few years I started doing 12:1.
Seems a little less sticky.
Also switched to ISO HEET red bottle at the beginning of covid, as I didn't want to deplete my stash of 99% iso.
