Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Holy crap!! please do tell more. Got any pics of that cartridge?

Its most likely a 500/510 whisper clone.

Usually a .338 LM cut down, and a shoulder turned into the case for head-spacing.
Other option is a cut down 7mm WSM case, usually they are setup to head-space on the case mouth.

I've been considering having one done for the DTA as well, just trying to decide which path to go down. The WSM is much more interesting as the brass forming is a simple trim operation. The .338 requires a lathe to put the step into the case.

50 BMG projectiles at subsonic velocities are very interesting... because of the low speed, the wind drag, and velocity loss is VERY low, and down range energy is much better than some other subsonic options. However, with a V of 1000 FPS, the drop is huge as the range goes long.
 
Usually a .338 LM cut down, and a shoulder turned into the case for head-spacing.
Other option is a cut down 7mm WSM case, usually they are setup to head-space on the case mouth.

Yup, and making brass is a major headache without a lathe. That said, make a batch of 20 and you're good for a long, long time.
 
Its most likely a 500/510 whisper clone.

Usually a .338 LM cut down, and a shoulder turned into the case for head-spacing.
Other option is a cut down 7mm WSM case, usually they are setup to head-space on the case mouth.

I've been considering having one done for the DTA as well, just trying to decide which path to go down. The WSM is much more interesting as the brass forming is a simple trim operation. The .338 requires a lathe to put the step into the case.

50 BMG projectiles at subsonic velocities are very interesting... because of the low speed, the wind drag, and velocity loss is VERY low, and down range energy is much better than some other subsonic options. However, with a V of 1000 FPS, the drop is huge as the range goes long.

Here are some pics of the cartridge. Its based on the 338 Lapua mag case cut down then a neck turned on it. I don't use a lathe to turn the cases in the sense that they're cut on the lathe. I do use the lathe to turn the neck turner however so it does make life a lot easier. As Dogtown noted the cases are a little annoying to make but I've got cases with 25 firings and no loose primers or cracked necks. Shooting them subsonic really doesn't stress the brass much. Even the supersonic loads don't seem to wear it out much. Point is once you've got it made up its good for a long time.

I've made up quite a few barrels for the DT's and they work great. 16" barrels are great and perfect length for shooting the subs.....work well with supersonics too. Suppressors can be made from aluminum due to the low pressure and large bore dropping muzzle pressure. As noted the long boattail BMG bullets will fly well with no shockwave to disturb them. High BC keeps the velocity up at long range. Most of the calculators show with a starting velocity of 1050 fps you will still have about 850 fps at 1000yds. There is the huge drop issue but with consistent loading it will be a consistent drop. I've fired my 12.7X48 at 800yds and hit things I aimed at consistently. You also have the option of shooting active bullets like tracer, incindiery, etc. Neat flashes and traces etc....They're a lot of fun. Pictures show some cast bullets with gaschecks loaded from subsonic to about 1800fps. They're 450gr while the API pictured is 650gr and subsonic. The one on the far left is a development for Indiana deer hunting with the case shortened to 1.79". We can hunt with rifle cartridges with over .357 dia bullets and cases shorter than 1.8".

Hope the pics help.

Frank
 

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Has anyone used a Magnetospeed on their SRS. I'm looking at getting a V3 but am wondering how well it will work on the 22" .308 barrel.

Thanks
It works better then it mounting to the barrel. Despite claims that it doesn't have any affect on POI... well 6 inches for me on my Remington 308 was enough to piss you off doing some OCW tests.

But back to your queation. Take off all the mounts put the smallest rubber grip on and mount it to the chassis. Then the Magnetospeed is mounted to the chassis and not the barrel jacking your harmonics. PM and I can send pics tonight when I get home if you want to see. I have a 22" barrel as well
 
I've used the V1 and V2 on just about all of my conversions, both long and short. The most difficult is getting it mounted properly when the barrel is flush with the handguard. The V2 has a strap large enough to wrap around the hanguard instead of the barrel to facilitate this, however I had to play with the sensor sensitivity to make it work.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Waveslayer pics would be great. I was wondering about the harmonics when you strap something on the barrel. I guess when I put it on my .260 barrel the POI will be off
My experience is there is a shift. I'm still at work but I will send pics soon. I have the version 2.
 
Yeah, when it's mounted on the barrel you do get a POI shift, which in turn just made me do my initial load development without a chrono. Once I get in the ballpark I start running the chrono to get an idea of where I am and if I need to go back to the drawing board. Wrapping it around the handguard mitigates that issue though.

It's a handy little chrono and is nice not having to wait for a ceasefire to setup and breakdown like a traditional chrono at a public range.
 
Yeah, when it's mounted on the barrel you do get a POI shift, which in turn just made me do my initial load development without a chrono. Once I get in the ballpark I start running the chrono to get an idea of where I am and if I need to go back to the drawing board. Wrapping it around the handguard mitigates that issue though.

Assuming that the POI shift is consistent (and why shouldn't it be?), it shouldn't affect the grouping - which in my understanding is what the load development is about?

Would appreciate clarification/explanation.

TNX!
 
Assuming that the POI shift is consistent (and why shouldn't it be?), it shouldn't affect the grouping - which in my understanding is what the load development is about?

Would appreciate clarification/explanation.

TNX!
I hope this answers your question. The Magnetospeed will cause a POI shift. So he doesn't use it until later down the road. But with the SRS chassis I hook it up to it and have no contact with the barrel
 
I hope this answers your question. The Magnetospeed will cause a POI shift. So he doesn't use it until later down the road. But with the SRS chassis I hook it up to it and have no contact with the barrel

In my understanding, load development is finding the best-grouping load. Thus, if the POI shift is consistent (e.g., every shot is 1" down and 1/2" left), why would it affect the group size and therefore the development?
 
In my understanding, load development is finding the best-grouping load. Thus, if the POI shift is consistent (e.g., every shot is 1" down and 1/2" left), why would it affect the group size and therefore the development?
Yes you are correct. Let's just say on Monday I did an OCW test and found 3 good loads. I pack up my goodies and head to work to pay for the illegals. I go home and do another load work up using my 3 loads and maybe some loads in between. Well when I reattach the Magnetospeed it will change the POI because when I unhooked the Magnetospeed it is pretty hard and almost impossible to have it in the same exact spot with the same exact torque when I did the original OCW test.

So what happened to me in real life was doing some load work ups on my 308 and Grendel. Well I would take the Magnetospeed on and off to let the barrel cool on my 308 and I would be shooting my Grendel so I wasn't wasting time so I can work more to pay more taxes... I experienced amazing shifts in my POI. So it trashed my OCW test. I had to do it all over again.

Does that make sense? If you use it. It has to stay on your gun for the whole load work up. Even after you head home. Don't bump it or move it farther or closer to the muzzle or it will affect the POI.... pain in the butt
 
So the factory barell muzzle thread pitch is 3/4x24 but is there also an ISO standard to consider?


Pearce

What ISO standard would you be looking for? Are you wanting a metric thread? They are currently a 3/4-24 class ?? thread with the class being a standard of how tight or loose it is. Here is a link to a great explanation of thread fit class. If memory serves the DT threads are a class 2A but I could be mistaken. Once again contacting the manufacturer will likely get you the info you want.

Classes of Thread

Frank
 
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View attachment 44301

Representing DTA from the land down under

Holy shit man, is that Little River? Ive seen a few of those SRS's and that HTI there before, but i didnt know there were that many down here. I sold my SRS to fund an AI AT, but that photo is sick. Nightforce, S&B's..... And i didnt know anyone here had a BEAST yet.
 
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Well I decided since I had to remove the skins to take out the old spring catch I might as well go ahead and modify the skins to accept the new pad assembly. I actually done the bolt stop myself as well instead of buying a new one.

1r3cw4.jpg

Please tell me what all is involved in this swap. Unfortunately I've almost grown out of love with my DTA cause of this issue. After too many rounds it really beats me up.
What parts are needed ?
 
Here is my $6.54 solution to having a $1300 barrel that won't fit in my DTA covert hard case. The case holds one long barrel and one 16" barrel (gun mounted) but after that you have the option of either cutting the foam for the barrel real deep and stacking them metal on metal (with something in between them) or just having the one extra barrel.

I figured while I only have three barrels this would work. If I get one or two more I will probably have a custom ballistic nylon barrel bag made.





 
Nick and Orkan,

Thanks for your help. I was able to get the A1 buttstock onto my Gen2 skins.


Nick,
The new design of the buttpad is nice. It is easier to put on and especially take off the gun, but it is still secure/solid on the gun. Well done.

I will post my pictures of where I made the dremel cut for buttstock here. I can delete these if you decide to put some up. I SUCK at stuff like this, so forgive the hack job. If folks have a vise to hold the skin, it will make your job much easier, and cleaner.

The buttock is very secure, and goes on and off easily.

All,
TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am not advising that anyone do this. I am just showing that it is doable.
Finished Job:
View attachment 40292 View attachment 40293 View attachment 40294


Starting out:

Mark the top of the tab/hook on the buttstock with a sharpie or some sort of marker.
View attachment 40308

Line up the buttstock to the skins and lift the buttstock up so your cut is marked.
View attachment 40309

Take the skin off the gun. While you are doing this, remove the old buttstock latch, and store it with your old buttstock. You won't need it with the new buttstock.

Finish marking your cuts.
View attachment 40320


Make your cuts. Cut conservatively, then open up your cut to match the buttstock hook.
View attachment 40319

This was the cut when I was getting close to being finished. I smoothed out the lines before I was done.
View attachment 40318


You can check the fit without putting the skins back on the gun. Just slide the buttstock on the skin This is one of the times I was checking the fit. This was close, but not quite there.
View attachment 40317


This is a closeup of the buttstock hook, in the skins.
View attachment 40316

Please tell me what all is involved in this swap. Unfortunately I've almost grown out of love with my DTA cause of this issue. After too many rounds it really beats me up.
What parts are needed ?

Abq-Defense done a great photo post of the "how to". You'll need the new recoil pad assembly ($135) and a new bolt stop ($25). I skipped on the bolt stop and modified it when I done the skins. The new recoil pad isn't Limbsaver soft but it's an improvement over the aluminum over-molded piece. The previous one I made was much softer but looked a bit ghetto on such a nice rifle.

I used a X-Acto knife set to do my modification. If you've ever done any kind of carving the finished product looks very clean and neat.
 
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Yes you are correct.......when I reattach the Magnetospeed it will change the POI because when I unhooked the Magnetospeed it is pretty hard and almost impossible to have it in the same exact spot with the same exact torque when I did the original OCW test.

Yes, certainly. Many reported that Magnetospeed would shift the POI, and it is highly unlikely that one can repeatedly mount Magnetospeed in such a way as to keep the POI the same between the sessions. So what? You are not zeroing the rifle with it, are you? You're just shooting for the groups.

waveslayer said:
So what happened to me in real life was doing some load work ups on my 308 and Grendel. Well I would take the Magnetospeed on and off to let the barrel cool on my 308 and I would be shooting my Grendel... I experienced amazing shifts in my POI. So it trashed my OCW test. I had to do it all over again.

Does that make sense?

Honestly, no.

It makes a lot of sense that you experienced a lot of POI shift. But OCW is not about the POI - it's only about the group size. And so far there hasn't been any complaint that Magnetospeed affects the group size either way, AFAIK. If this is not correct (and you experienced group size change based on where/how your Magnetospeed was attached), please let me know.

So IMHO - instead of trashing your OCW tests, you could just measure the resulting groups and figure which node suits you best.
 
Yes, certainly. Many reported that Magnetospeed would shift the POI, and it is highly unlikely that one can repeatedly mount Magnetospeed in such a way as to keep the POI the same between the sessions. So what? You are not zeroing the rifle with it, are you? You're just shooting for the groups.



Honestly, no.

It makes a lot of sense that you experienced a lot of POI shift. But OCW is not about the POI - it's only about the group size. And so far there hasn't been any complaint that Magnetospeed affects the group size either way, AFAIK. If this is not correct (and you experienced group size change based on where/how your Magnetospeed was attached), please let me know.

So IMHO - instead of trashing your OCW tests, you could just measure the resulting groups and figure which node suits you best.
You are correct on all ends. But you missed the part where I stated I took it off and on between guns to let the barrels cool. Which caused 3 different POI's thus affecting the group size. And yes I know what a OCW test is used for, lol that made me laugh.

I was simply stating if you are going to use it, then you need to keep it on for that whole OCW test session. So doing what I did would cause major POI each time thus causing very large groups like 6" groups. Especially for a gun that groups well under a MOA.
 
Now I understand. I indeed missed the "taking it on and off during the OCW session" part. My apologies, and you're right.
No stress. Figured, trust me it was a good lesson learned. Bummer on all the time spent on the reloads. I was scratching my head and saying. This gun must hate theses loads... it is funny now.