-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Yes, swapping out to the proper extension will be the best way to go. Gen 1 extensions will not mate with Gen 2 rifles however the other way round works...sort of. Gen 1 uses a tiny slot to index off of a pin in the feed ramp while the Gen 2 extension indexes directly off the feed ramp.
Here is my $6.54 solution to having a $1300 barrel that won't fit in my DTA covert hard case. The case holds one long barrel and one 16" barrel (gun mounted) but after that you have the option of either cutting the foam for the barrel real deep and stacking them metal on metal (with something in between them) or just having the one extra barrel.
I figured while I only have three barrels this would work. If I get one or two more I will probably have a custom ballistic nylon barrel bag made.
Do you have anything in there for padding? Or is it snug enough not to rattle around? I know the PVC wont harm the finish but it makes me feel all warm n fuzzy knowing my barrel is protected from an unexpected fall.
Nice set up though I may have to do this....
Yes, I did put closed foam on both sides. I made it long enough for my longest barrel, so the short ones will rattle a bit.
Finally got some H1000 for my 300 WM loads. As I have posted before I have been using IMR4350 with some good results (68 grns and 70 grns). My understanding is the H1000 is the preferred for this caliber. Now let the development begin. I have both the 210 Berger VLDs and the 208 grn Amax bullets and just received 100 rounds of new Nosler Brass. I am using the DTA 26" barrel.
Any one with any data to start with would be helpful.
Thanks,
-Johnny
Any one with any data to start with would be helpful.
Thanks,
-Johnny
When you say "the other way round works, sort of" does that mean a gen2 barrel and extension will work in the gen 1? I'm assuming there's some work to be done, like either pull the little pin or have the barrel extension notched? I'm guessing if I find a great deal on a gen 2 barrel, it would just be easier to have the extension swapped for a gen 1's?
Also, if I order a SAC DTA barrel with a gen 1 extension, is it as simple as pulling the old barrel, dropping in the SAC barrel, and I'm good to go, or do I have to worry about headspace? Sorry for the noob questions, but I'm less than 100 rounds into my DTA, so I'm still learning about them.
Last edited:
I have a Gen1 rifle, so I have no experience with the Gen2 extensions, however it's been mentioned here more than once that the large notch used by the Gen2 extension allows it to interface with the Gen1 rifles, though it will index loosely. That's because it indexes directly off the feedramp, whereas a Gen1 extension with its tiny groove will bang up against the feedramp on a Gen2 receiver and not fit.
If you have a Gen1 rifle, order your SAC barrel (and other barrels) with a Gen1 extension. However, if you were to get a barrel with a Gen2 extension, you could swap it out for a Gen1 extension. A phone call to Desert Tech can square you away with the proper torque settings for the extensions. You do not have to worry about headspace with any of these barrels as it headspaces off the bolt when you change them out.
If you have a Gen1 rifle, order your SAC barrel (and other barrels) with a Gen1 extension. However, if you were to get a barrel with a Gen2 extension, you could swap it out for a Gen1 extension. A phone call to Desert Tech can square you away with the proper torque settings for the extensions. You do not have to worry about headspace with any of these barrels as it headspaces off the bolt when you change them out.
Does anybody have a timeline on 10 rd mags? I'v been hearing about them for a while, and its the one thing keeping me from making the plunge.
Coat the insides of the PVC tube with Plasti-Dip , the rubber coating used for pliers handles etc. Plug one end , fill it up then remove plug and let excess rubber drain back into container........ after drying , trim up excess at end with knife
Last edited:
Looking for a good load for hunting elk with the Covert and 18" 300 win mag barrel. Leaning towards 208 amax or 210 berger hunting. Already have h1000 on hand so plan on using that. Will the heavier bullets stay stabilized with the short 18" barrel. Would a 190gr be better, thanks.
Fire sale on my SAC-built 18" 308 barrel for Coverts. When you gotta move it you gotta move it so taking $975 shipped for this $1675 barrel.
Check it out in the accessories for sale section: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ech-bartlein-fluted-apa-$950.html#post3082174
Check it out in the accessories for sale section: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ech-bartlein-fluted-apa-$950.html#post3082174
The previous owner of my rifle had the barrel rethreaded and a AAC muzzle break installed. I'm looking at removing the break and I was wandering if this can be done with the barrel installed in the chassis or should I remove the barrel and put it in a vice?
I'm not an expert but my 2 cents would be use a vise. Reduce the stress in the chassis and the bolts.
+1
It's so easy to remove the barrel that it just wouldn't make sense to risk damage to the rifle by trying to torque the brake off with the barrel installed, especially if you don't know how much torque was used to install the brake.
I am looking at buying a used dta srs with black skins. Can you buy FDE skins to put on it, and if so, does anyone know how much and how long a wait? thank you, Greg
That's sort of what I was figuring but thought I'd ask anyhow, thanks.
There's a set of FDE Gen 1 skins on the Hide marketplace now for $100.
Do you know if gen 1 skins will go on a gen 2 with a monopod? or do you have to do some small modification? Thank you, Greg
Anyone have one of the older non HTI mounts they wanna part with? Maybe somebody has upgraded to the HTI and has the older one laying around? Help me out please.
I believe they are the same (of course if Im wrong, someone will jump in and tell me), you can cut the skins to accept the monopod. I have done it, a dremel and some filing and it'll fit.
There's one on the Hide Marketplace under accessories, think the person that has it listed is "jong" or something like that.
Edit: here you go,
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/options-accessories-sale/262542-garage-sale-bunch-stuff.html
Last edited:
I also think this is correct, and if it's the newer style recoil pad on the rifle you're looking at that's a pretty simple modification to make the skins work with that as well.
Wanted to share my experience with SAC. The quality of their barrels is top notch. I ordered mine 2 weeks ago and requested to attach my Surefire break, and they completed the job in 10 days. Very good communication and was a pleasure dealing with them. I will deff order another barrel from them. Thank you Mark and Andrew for great job on installing my breaks and making me a super 308 barrel.
Another question to the gurus on here. Are the DTA brakes on a 338 lapua any good? Cant find any reviews of them. I currently run an APA fat bastard on my 338 stiller, and was just wondering what brake to put on my dta 338. Thank you, Greg
The traditional .338 brake is excellent and noticeably reduces recoil to comfortable levels. This was the original brake that shipped with the rifle before the newer quick-detach brakes designed for suppressors. Back then, even with the stiff Gen1 buttplate, you could shoot .338LM all day without it being a pain. The QD style is less efficient at reducing recoil, but it's still a decent brake, though I would only go that route if you plan to run your rifle with a suppressor, otherwise stick to the traditional brake.
I have searched here and cannot seem to find any 300 Wm loads specific to the DTA. So I am going to load up some rounds from 76-78 grains in 1/2 grain increments. Using Winchester cases, Winchester large rifle primers and Hornady 208 grain Amax bullets. Stay tuned.
some load data I found for ya.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-reloading/184254-share-your-dta-loads.html
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-reloading/184254-share-your-dta-loads.html
Dogtown, do you have any idea where a man could find one of those brakes? i have searched high and low and cant find them. Thank you for your help, Greg
URL=http://s219.photobucket.com/user/bmuoio/media/DTA6.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Best sniper platform on the planet! Own one chassis and scope and shoot sever calibers
!
Bought new from Desert Tactical Arms 3 years ago and never bought the barrel kits.
Will shoot many calibers up to 338 Lapua.
Paid $3,100
selling $2200 OBO
Brian call or text 949-310-9621 Don't PM I won't get them right away!
Best sniper platform on the planet! Own one chassis and scope and shoot sever calibers
!
Bought new from Desert Tactical Arms 3 years ago and never bought the barrel kits.
Will shoot many calibers up to 338 Lapua.
Paid $3,100
selling $2200 OBO
Brian call or text 949-310-9621 Don't PM I won't get them right away!
URL=http://s219.photobucket.com/user/bmuoio/media/DTA6.jpg.html][/URL]
Best sniper platform on the planet! Own one chassis and scope and shoot sever calibers
!
Bought new from Desert Tactical Arms 3 years ago and never bought the barrel kits.
Will shoot many calibers up to 338 Lapua.
Paid $3,100
selling $2200 OBO
Brian call or text 949-310-9621 Don't PM I won't get them right away!
********************************************Sale Pending***********************************************
***********************************************************All yours Ollie!!!***********************************************
Quick GRAB! 1 minute after placing!
It was meant to be!
6 other takers over a period of an hour after you bought it!
Quick GRAB! 1 minute after placing!
It was meant to be!
6 other takers over a period of an hour after you bought it!
Last edited:
45 mils to 1000 yards, but I get to 600 in about 23 mils. I don't know about a commercial suppressor, but I'm using a custom one. It's made lightweight and with only 4 baffles as it's not trying to contain .50BMG pressures.
ETA: that crazy drop is with subsonic ammo - it's easy to shoot the 650 at around 2000fps and get much better long range performance.
ETA: that crazy drop is with subsonic ammo - it's easy to shoot the 650 at around 2000fps and get much better long range performance.
Last edited:
The answer to the drop depends on which one you're talking about....the .338BR or the 12.7X48. You can use the JBM ballistic site to come up with your own number using whatever bullet you want to use. I figure the 300gr Sierra Matchking for the .338 and the M33 Ball bullet for the .50. Start them both at 1050fps muzzle and run them out to 1000yds. That will give drops and velocity all the way out.
As for the suppressors I build them for both. You could use any commercial .338 can on the BR but most .50 cans are built for the BMG and will be very heavy for the smaller bolt guns. I build them as well....
Hope that answers it and read Dogtowns posts all through this thread. He's been shooting the subbies for a long time and has some very good info. You can search his username or mine to see where we've already posted what you might be looking for.
Frank
dta srs 308 barrel
Depends on which setup you want. The 16 inch barely pokes out of the covert forearm, the 22 barely pokes out of the a1 forearm. The 26" sticks a couple inches out of the a1 forearm and looks like a mini spear sticking out of the covert lol, just depends on which setup you are interested in.
Depends on which setup you want. The 16 inch barely pokes out of the covert forearm, the 22 barely pokes out of the a1 forearm. The 26" sticks a couple inches out of the a1 forearm and looks like a mini spear sticking out of the covert lol, just depends on which setup you are interested in.
Just to throw this out there: the 12.7x48mm can be a fun project to put together but also a lot of work (and headaches). As Frank has said before, 338 Whisper is much easier to make ammo for and get it to feed in SRS mags, let alone subsonic .338LM. It all depends on what you intend to use it for and how much effort you're willing to put into it. .338LM subsonic is really the minimal effort route and making 300gr loads with TrailBoss and the 18" DTA barrel isn't much of an investment in time or money. The .338Whisper is a bit more specialized but I think a more efficient way to toss a 300gr bullet at subsonic speeds. The 12.7x48mm is really all about maximizing energy on target...quietly. And personally, it satisfies my inner mad scientist. But it's a god damn pain to make brass for by hand (ie without a lathe), finding the right barrel can be tricky (1:9 .50cal), and getting the throat cut correctly to fit long .50cal bullets can be another headache. That and you'll likely be single loading them unless you go with the lower mass cast bullets.
Last edited:
Just to throw this out there: the 12.7x48mm can be a fun project to put together but also a lot of work (and headaches). As Frank has said before, 338 Whisper is much easier to make ammo for and get it to feed in SRS mags, let alone subsonic .338LM. It all depends on what you intend to use it for and how much effort you're willing to put into it. .338LM subsonic is really the minimal effort route and making 300gr loads with TrailBoss and the 18" DTA barrel isn't much of an investment in time or money. The .338Whisper is a bit more specialized but I think a more efficient way to toss a 300gr bullet at subsonic speeds. The 12.7x48mm is really all about maximizing energy on target...quietly. And personally, it satisfies my inner mad scientist. But it's a god damn pain to make brass for by hand (ie without a lathe), finding the right barrel can be tricky (1:9 .50cal), and getting the throat cut correctly to fit long .50cal bullets can be another headache. That and you'll likely be single loading them unless you go with the lower mass cast bullets.
Silly question, perhaps, but what is that small object mounted in front of the front scope ring? The one with the cable sticking out.
Sent from my GT-S6810P using Tapatalk
PROOF Research - carbon fiber DTA barrel
Here’s a teaser with my personal DTA SRS. Our factory test pilot took it out to test fire with a prototype PROOF Research carbon fiber-wrapped 338LM barrel (not available for sale yet). Consistent 0.57 MOA 3-shot groups with RUAG SWISS-P 250-gr. They also ran fast-as-you-can-reaquire 10-round group that held at 1MOA. I know it is only a 3-shot group, but 5-shot groups will be coming with pictures.
Weight with stock steel barrel = 12 lb 12 oz
Weight with carbon fiber barrel = 11 lb 4 oz
Disclaimer: I work for PROOF Research
Here’s a teaser with my personal DTA SRS. Our factory test pilot took it out to test fire with a prototype PROOF Research carbon fiber-wrapped 338LM barrel (not available for sale yet). Consistent 0.57 MOA 3-shot groups with RUAG SWISS-P 250-gr. They also ran fast-as-you-can-reaquire 10-round group that held at 1MOA. I know it is only a 3-shot group, but 5-shot groups will be coming with pictures.
Weight with stock steel barrel = 12 lb 12 oz
Weight with carbon fiber barrel = 11 lb 4 oz
Disclaimer: I work for PROOF Research
Attachments
I'm still in the early stages of testing it out. In some ways it's more convenient than running Ballistic on an iPad mini and in others it's a hassle. It handled the 118F heat of the Mojave Desert back in July whereas all of our PDAs were failing, so that's a plus. The remote is kind of annoying at times, but there's only so much you can do in that regard. Once you setup a load, it's pretty straight forward to get a firing solution; it'll give you localized environmental values along with cant and angle - you just give it the range to target. Getting the load setup is the trick and there's currently no way to label each load, so you just have to deduce which of the 16 slots is which based on the parameters you've already entered ("okay, that's a 1:9 twist 300gr - okay, short .338LM"). One thing I really like is that each load has an elevation offset that allows you to add in the POI offset for your conversions if you're running an SRS. The only downside is that currently there's no windage offset nor are negative values allowed, but they seem keen to add this capability last I talked to them.
Seems quite useful, but I can imagine the remote being a nuisance. I also think adding negative values would come at a cost (either performance or range wise), since that means switching from unsigned (0-255 for a single byte) to signed (-128 - 127, I believe, might depend on the implementation) values. That means you'd lower the maximum values, which is probably not something you'd want (unless it's far more than could possibly be needed). All embedded programming I've done was on an Arduino, but I do know you're usually quite limited in what resources you have available. So while you could theoretically just use twice as many bytes for the values as before, it would probably not be as simple to actually do.
Sent from my GT-S6810P using Tapatalk
