Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#7,901
Yes, you can use a standard 6 or 6.5CM bushing die. I can post the bushing specs tomorrow if you'd like. I only use that for my virgin brass, and then I order a custom non-bushing die from whidden using fired brass. Since I have one of those custom dies already, I can take 6CM brass down to 22CM in one pass. Works fantastic. I order custom sets from whidden, so I have a micrometer seater too. ... but you can use just about any large 22 cal die such as 22-250 or similar and ream out the sliding sleeve.

Our barrels are expensive, so I certainly can't counsel you on what makes most sense for you financially... but I would recommend getting what you think will serve you best for your intended application. The 22 creedmoor isn't even in the same ball park as the .223 regarding performance. Think 22-250 on steroids. The .223 is considerably smaller. We don't do 223 conversions, but have chambered these rifles in more different cartridges than any outfit on the planet. So if you want something on the 308 bolt face and bigger, I'd be happy to help. :)
 
#7,902
Hi, and thanks for that info. I would be curious to hear which size dies you used to make your initial brass? I only have 6.5 brass, wondering if that might work too?
Have read that a couple guys have used Lapua 22-250 brass and fire formed, have you heard about that method?
Once I get set up with some initial brass if I go 22 Creedmoor, the Whidden custom dies sound like the route to go long term though...
 
#7,903
Yes, you can use 22-250 brass to make it but the 22-250 cases are a few thousandths smaller in the web which results in a weird looking bulge in the web area after forming. I don't like that kind of expansion in such a critical area of the case. You can use 6.5 brass, but you'll need to take more steps, probably 2-3 more, to get it knocked down. I would take no more than .010" steps when moving downward, and you'll want to end up at around .248" for your last bushing on turned brass and .250 would probably suffice for no turn brass. Though starting with 6.5, you might even be able to get away with .252 considering you'll pick up some thickness with each step down. However I am a big advocate of going a touch too small and then expanding up rather than trying to control the O.D. with bushings alone. I'd rather have the inconsistencies of my brass on the OD than the ID.

You might find this thread of interest. This is kind of the follow along thread I did with the original 22 creedmoor barrel we setup for last season's coyote killing. https://forums.gunhive.com/topic/749/22-creedmoor
 
#7,904
Can anyone recommend an atv gun boot that will fit the SRS A1 with a 56mm optic and bipod? Was looking at the Koplin 6.0 Transport but wanted to verify fit prior to purchase. I am kind of limited for choices as my wheeler is a 2013 Can Am Outlander 1000 Xtp and the bracket is Can Am that fits the 6.0 case.

Thanks
 
#7,906
Anyone dislike the covert and wish they had a full length hand guard? I am thinking about going with a covert but I cant make up my mind. What say you covert owners?
 
#7,907
Vidar said:
Anyone dislike the covert and wish they had a full length hand guard? I am thinking about going with a covert but I cant make up my mind. What say you covert owners?
Click to expand...

I have the Covert and I think it's great. It allows you to use any length barrel more a much shorter overall package.
However I've recently been wanting to do PRS so as I prepare for that I'm wondering if I should switch to the standard length. I'm gonna try it with the Covert length first and see how that goes.


Covert is as Covert does.

Plenty of good feedback on the scout site.
 
#7,908
Vidar said:
Anyone dislike the covert and wish they had a full length hand guard? I am thinking about going with a covert but I cant make up my mind. What say you covert owners?
Click to expand...

I asked this question back on Scout right before the switch back here. Everyone voted Covert. As far as PRS where you might be worried about barricades, you can use a bipod as a skid plate.
 
#7,909
Vidar said:
Anyone dislike the covert and wish they had a full length hand guard? I am thinking about going with a covert but I cant make up my mind. What say you covert owners?
Click to expand...

A tremendous number of my customers whom received coverts have called me back wishing they had gone full length. I bet the figure is over 60%. I have also seen more covert owners struggle with accuracy than full length models. Thus, I always recommend people start off with full length rifles. As previously mentioned, you can hang a bipod off the front and gain some front hold, but consider that it is significantly farther out in the same configuration on a full length rail.

Then there is the night vision and optic compatibility to consider. I've had several customers really do a number on their optics because the covert barrels were right beneath their objective lens. Running suppressed is the clear answer there, but that isn't available to everyone, yet. The list goes on, but when I'm being asked to spend someone else's money, the facts stack overwhelmingly in the full length model's favor. If after someone has it, they would like to go down in length (which almost never happens due to the rifle being so short anyway) we can always sell them a handguard kit to swap out when they get their new barrel.

With that said, each person needs to assign their own justifications for their decisions. They are the ones that need to be happy. What we do is truly present the facts regarding each intended configuration and help customers gain as much first hand information as possible so that they may make a choice that meets/exceeds their expectations. If you'd like to talk out the intimate details of the up side and down side to each, feel free to give me a call anytime.

------------------------
sig1.jpg
 
#7,910
If I used one chassis it would be the full length because of NV compatibility That said I have a covert chassis that I use suppressed to hunt.....if I didn't need the NV rail space I'd run it all the time. A 16" SRS covert suppressed is a handy short gun for hunting inside 3-400 yds. Its the perfect tree stand rifle. You could always do one chassis, both rails and the rail take off tool.
 
#7,911
I've had a pretty good number of customers who have bought rifles with full length handguards who have asked to have them shortened. I have yet to see one person who has actually gone from the short handguard to the long one. I pulled off my long handguard as soon as the short ones were available and can't see any reason to go back. If you're not mounting a night vision or other optic in front of your scope the longer handguard really doesn't gain you anything. Some will tell you the rifle is more stable with the bipod further forward but in reality the rifle is just as stable with it back and it gives you a greater range of azimuth change when the bipod is closer to the center of rotation. With the covert you can run any barrel that is available. With the full length handguard you're limited to barrels 22" long and longer.

hope that helps

Frank
 
#7,912
I have an SRS and a Covert and I really can't say that I like one more than the other. The Covert is very handy in the front seat of my jeep. The SRS feels more stable on the bipod. Only advice I can give is weigh out all of the needs and wants that you have out of the chassis and make your choices based off of that. Or....... get both!
 
#7,913
I havent shot the Covert, so I cant compare the two, but I do know that you sacrifice stability for compactness with the bipods so close to the fulcrum. For me that was the deciding factor between the two, besides wanting a longer barrel for the MV, and the ability to attach NV optics.
 
#7,916
I just recently picked up a Covert in trade. I've had several SRS rifles in the past, but I think this Covert is going to be my new favorite. Its extremely handy. I have a 16" 6.5CM barrel and a 26" 338LM.
 

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#7,925
Disregard following, its fixed enough.. Not sure if it was the extra oil on the bolt or found my creep limit, but its reliable enough.

Has anyone ever had an issue with their trigger not wanting to reset? I pulled the rifle apart to swap hand guards and decided to get some creep out of the trigger using Orkan's guide. Got it to fire and backed it off 1/3 turn so I wouldn't have to file anything down yet. When I went to function test, I would pull the trigger dry firing, rack the bolt, find the trigger is still "disengaged". I have to pull the bolt back, give the trigger another snap and that allows it to fully reset and only then will it function again. I did not touch anything else. I backed the adjustment off to "reset" from the beginning and noticed I had the issue even then, so something else is holding up. Pardon the noobishness, triggers are the one thing I normally avoid.
 
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#7,926
SRPowah said:
Has anyone ever had an issue with their trigger not wanting to reset? I pulled the rifle apart to swap hand guards and decided to get some creep out of the trigger using Orkan's guide. Got it to fire and backed it off 1/3 turn so I wouldn't have to file anything down yet. When I went to function test, I would pull the trigger dry firing, rack the bolt, find the trigger is still "disengaged". I have to pull the bolt back, give the trigger another snap and that allows it to fully reset and only then will it function again. I did not touch anything else. I backed the adjustment off to "reset" from the beginning and noticed I had the issue even then, so something else is holding up. Pardon the noobishness, triggers are the one thing I normally avoid.

If it helps, running the bolt home hard has a 50/50 chance of the trigger reseting. So who wants to give me a crash course in what the hell is going on inside this chunk of metal, because I am a visual learner. I understand AR triggers, but I don't know what really differs here.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you take too much of the creep out, it can cause the trigger to lock and not reset. If you back off the creep adjustment until it resets and you still don't have a nice trigger, send it back to DT for warranty repair (they just replace the trigger pack) since its not working correctly. You should be able to have a safe trigger with zero creep (or super dang close).

This has happened to me, and was replaced under warranty from DT.
 
#7,927
Fred @ Bison Tactical said:
Yes, if you take too much of the creep out, it can cause the trigger to lock and not reset. If you back off the creep adjustment until it resets and you still don't have a nice trigger, send it back to DT for warranty repair (they just replace the trigger pack) since its not working correctly. You should be able to have a safe trigger with zero creep (or super dang close).
Click to expand...

Thank you for the response. I played with the creep and found a sweet spot where it functions most of the time without being unbearable. Functional enough for my trip this weekend! If it bothers me when putting rounds down range, I will contact DT for any further help.
 
#7,931
1badbarrel said:
Hey orkan , what caliber you been shooting the most lately , or what's your favorite caliber now?
Click to expand...

Well I don't have a "favorite" so much as I have a favorite for specific applications. Most of my summer will be spent shooting 22CM, 6.5LRM, and 7NM AI. I've been spending lots of time with the little cartridges in traditional rifles too. 22BR, 6BR, and 6BRX.

Shooting 22 creedmoor is as addictive as it gets. My best shooting 22CM barrel I'm saving for coyotes, but this new one I have is almost as impressive.

5 @ 100yds
B5E7hbCh.jpg
 
#7,934
Thank you orkan, what a well done article!
Orkan have you ever came across any that you couldn't remove all the creep from even with alteration to the safety and had to replace the trigger?
 
#7,938
What mounts do you guys prefer and mostly what height? I'd like for it to clear and high end scope 56mm obj such as S&B prob smallest o.d. , GenII Razor, March etc . Like to have 20-30moa and no more than 1/2" above the rail.

Suggestions of mounts and heights would be great .
 
#7,939
For a 56mm obj., you're going to need a 1.5" mount height. Im a huge fan of Spuhr ISMS mounts. The DT mounts are all 1.5" high as well. Your sight height is going to be 2.63" with a 1.5" mount. You can get a lower mount, but you wont be able to have a 56mm obj.
If you plan on using multiple calibers, some are going to recommend a Tanget Theta for toolless zero, but Vortex Razor G2s are fairly simple to rezero, and you can mark the different zeros for each caliber in the elevation turret. S&B's are nice, Ive only used the PMII 3-12 LP and the zero process is probably on par with the Razor G2, with the exception that the S&B is only using one allen key vs the multi-tool (allen key and flat head) for the Razor G2.
 
#7,942
I got a SRS A-1 chassis coming and am excited to finally get into the DT game. Whos typically got the best price on conversion kits? Looking for left hand 6.5 CM.
I'm also considering going the custom route in probably 6mm Creed, if I can keep the price from getting too obscene.
 
#7,943
Kubitza123 said:
What mounts do you guys prefer and mostly what height? I'd like for it to clear and high end scope 56mm obj such as S&B prob smallest o.d. , GenII Razor, March etc . Like to have 20-30moa and no more than 1/2" above the rail.

Suggestions of mounts and heights would be great .
Click to expand...

Actually I had my gen 2 razor in an era-tac mount that is 1.46" with 40 MOA cant and the vortex scope covers so you could get away with slightly lower. I had a few mm clearance from the rail.


Covert is as Covert does.

Plenty of good feedback on the scout site.
 
#7,944
Doesn't seem to be a lot of traffic on the DTA thread, guess its that time of the year, so thought I would ask a question here that should probably be in the reloading section. Here goes; have a new to me 26' 300wm conversion, and looking for a good hunting and also a blinking load. I favor Berger VLD's and was thinking about using 210's for hunting and around 190's for blinking which any type bullet would be fine. I have Retumbo on hand but could get H1000 or something else if needed. Anyone care to share some proven data or suggestions that might fit?
 
#7,945
Fishkat said:
Doesn't seem to be a lot of traffic on the DTA thread, guess its that time of the year, so thought I would ask a question here that should probably be in the reloading section. Here goes; have a new to me 26' 300wm conversion, and looking for a good hunting and also a blinking load. I favor Berger VLD's and was thinking about using 210's for hunting and around 190's for blinking which any type bullet would be fine. I have Retumbo on hand but could get H1000 or something else if needed. Anyone care to share some proven data or suggestions that might fit?
Click to expand...

Mine loves the Hornady 195BTHP, and some 4831. Awesome power.
 
#7,948
Kubitza123 said:
What mounts do you guys prefer and mostly what height? I'd like for it to clear and high end scope 56mm obj such as S&B prob smallest o.d. , GenII Razor, March etc . Like to have 20-30moa and no more than 1/2" above the rail.

Suggestions of mounts and heights would be great .
Click to expand...

I went with the 40 MOA mount from DT. I use a Horus Reticle so I just use hold overs mostly when I shoot. it helps with different calibers too. I just note down my DOPE and zero my scope on one round and then set my zero stop for another caliber. sounds confusing, but once I did all of that, I can then dial in my dope to zero the gun and go from there, it's easy to do
 
#7,949
I'm hoping that DT will be focusing on a next gen SRS once their MDR comes out. I'm itching to buy one, but know that the day I do, the newer model will come out... probably something with mlok hand guard and interchangeable grip. Does the SRS us spacing in/near the grip negating the possibility of grip changes? Other than that, what other features would a next gen SRS have?
 
#7,950
I think mag flare skins would be nice for next gen. I think if they wanted to get crazy and offer a premium light weight version they could use magnesium possibly in the chassis.
 
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