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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Regarding recoil, I have a 30" no-contour straight-pipe barrel for my SRS-A1 in 300 Norma Mag and the barrel alone weighs just over 9 lbs. Without a brake or suppressor,it kicks about the same as my 6.5 Creedmoor. Chassis, barrel, scope all come in around 19.5 lbs.

I contacted DT, and the thickest they say can fit into an HTI is 1.62", I don't know the thickness of the 50bmg barrel (forgot to ask) but it weighs 9.15 pounds. Assuming I did my math right, a straight taper, with no fluting (but I like the fluting...) at 29" will weigh 15.7 pounds. So at most, 6.5 pounds heavier, unless I add barrel legnth, or remove weight for fluting. Maybe that much weight and a different brake will make the difference.


I wonder if I should just go with a different 50, and get the HTI later in 375, for when I can do 1000 yards, and if I get to go to their training course. I might be wrong, but the 375 sounds way better than the 50. And while I could go with a 375 and 50 conversion kit, I actually don't really plan on swapping calibers until it comes time to re barrel. I also plan on replacing my 308 with a 6.5 creedmoore, unless 338 will make that much of a difference in the training course, if and when that happens.

I just wonder if I should base the 50 on fun, but when it comes to ELR, go with the 375. I'll post that question in the ELR section, once I do some more research. But, I'd might as well ask, anyone have experience with the HTI in 375? And if you have experience with it and the 50, is it safe to assume that with 50% the muzzle energy, it'll be about 50% the recoil? Or, is that just a dream? And any accuracy differences? Only downside to the 375 is that the ammo is even less common and more expensive than the 50. And I can't shoot it in the 50 cal club. But since that's once a month, I could probably shoot the 375 any other time...
 
Anyone modify a rail to mount the bipod while having a RRS tripod mount attached? I'm thinking of ordering one from Primal Rights and seeing if I can't make it work but thought I would see if anyone else has tried it.

 

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I contacted DT, and the thickest they say can fit into an HTI is 1.62", I don't know the thickness of the 50bmg barrel (forgot to ask) but it weighs 9.15 pounds. Assuming I did my math right, a straight taper, with no fluting (but I like the fluting...) at 29" will weigh 15.7 pounds. So at most, 6.5 pounds heavier, unless I add barrel legnth, or remove weight for fluting. Maybe that much weight and a different brake will make the difference.


I wonder if I should just go with a different 50, and get the HTI later in 375, for when I can do 1000 yards, and if I get to go to their training course. I might be wrong, but the 375 sounds way better than the 50. And while I could go with a 375 and 50 conversion kit, I actually don't really plan on swapping calibers until it comes time to re barrel. I also plan on replacing my 308 with a 6.5 creedmoore, unless 338 will make that much of a difference in the training course, if and when that happens.

I just wonder if I should base the 50 on fun, but when it comes to ELR, go with the 375. I'll post that question in the ELR section, once I do some more research. But, I'd might as well ask, anyone have experience with the HTI in 375? And if you have experience with it and the 50, is it safe to assume that with 50% the muzzle energy, it'll be about 50% the recoil? Or, is that just a dream? And any accuracy differences? Only downside to the 375 is that the ammo is even less common and more expensive than the 50. And I can't shoot it in the 50 cal club. But since that's once a month, I could probably shoot the 375 any other time...

Our custom heavy weight 375CT barrels are the pinnacle of ELR performance in an HTI. We do not do them in 50BMG, but we have quite a few out there in 375CT.
 
What up guys? I have finally caught up on barrel orders. When we were backed up, we still shipped in less than 2 weeks. Should be a bit shorter now. I have Hawk Hill blanks in stock in 30 cal, 6.5, and 6mm. In Bartlien I have 6mm. In Benchmark I have 338, 30 cal, 6.5 and 6mm. We are ready to spin up your next hammer! Get a hold of me at [email protected]
 
Our custom heavy weight 375CT barrels are the pinnacle of ELR performance in an HTI. We do not do them in 50BMG, but we have quite a few out there in 375CT.

Any reason you don't do them in 50? Could you? How's the performance with 375? On the one hand I want the 50, but if it's also about accuracy, maybe 375 is better. But, then I still need a 50!
 
That's kinda where I'm at a crossroads; I want a 50, and it's necessary for the 50 cal club, and it seems easier to find and cheaper to reload. But the 375 will be better, I can shoot it any day but the 50 cal day, and it'll be more capable for when I do ELR. Plus it won't beat me up as bad. I dunno, I'll have to think about it. Luckily, I've got time! I'll let you know if I shift the way of the 375. Do you suppose you could do a custom ELR 50?
 
A 50 cal is fun BUT a 375 is a much better long range round. 50 is for when you want to make a devastating effect. 375 is for accuracy. DT is AWESOME and they do not make a 50 if you want a 50 get a Barrett. I think the DT is a much more versatile and fun gun to own. If I could only have one it would be the DT. I bought a Barrett to have it, rarely do I shoot it. The DT is FUN AND SEXY! The Barrett is a BEAST.
 
Sorry I forgot they have the HTI in 50! As for Barrett't not being accurate I think many mil snipers would disagree with that.....

Lots of the so called accuracy issues are from people not using Match grade ammo but using rounds made for a machine gun.

The M107A1 has come a LONG way

Still its an impact weapon, the 375 is a true sniper round and was designed for that.

The 50 is a machine gun round which rifles were built to fire

There can be arguments made for both of them.

You need to decide what you really want and go from there.
 
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I'm no sniper; I'm a submariner. But I don't believe that the Barrett M82 or M107 are sniper rifles. More for anti material, like you said about the 50 causing devastating affect. It's not that it's inaccurate, just that there are more accurate options. It's good at what it does; high rate of fire with decent accuracy using 50bmg. It also has pretty good capacity, too. But I don't believe the semi auto barretts are sniper rifles, despite what popular culture would lead us to believe. But hey, that's my opinion. I live under the water for months on end, and shoot for fun. I don't shoot for a living, and especially not for the military.

Agreed, there have been improvements. But, it's still not really a precision rifle. I am definitly entertaining the idea of getting one for fun out to 600 yards, and then getting a 375 HTI for serious shooting 1000 and beyond. The 50bmg is capable, but like you said, building a precision rifle around a cartridge that isn't inherently accurate, isn't as smart as building a whole new round purpose built for ELR accuracy.
 
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What up guys? I have finally caught up on barrel orders. When we were backed up, we still shipped in less than 2 weeks. Should be a bit shorter now. I have Hawk Hill blanks in stock in 30 cal, 6.5, and 6mm. In Bartlien I have 6mm. In Benchmark I have 338, 30 cal, 6.5 and 6mm. We are ready to spin up your next hammer! Get a hold of me at [email protected]

I know Ty already has plenty of props out here, but I feel I must share. He made me a 6.5 Creed Benchmark that shoots absolutely lights out. I've never had anything that shoots this good. I can do this all day:

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Hell, it even likes factory loads:

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Oh, and his turnaround was surprisingly quick and customer service is top-notch. Thanks Ty.

 
Hey srs and covert guy's , what's your favorite conversion or caliber you been shooting lately. Details , twist , length, bullet , powder ect

Favorite to this point is the .223 conversion. I have it 7.7 twist, 16" barrel. Shooting factory 77gr ammo, and it absolutely hammers out to 609 yards. Hope to take it out further soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Right now I just have the 308 factory barrel but it was hammering a 4" plate at 525 yesterday so I'm pretty pleased with it. I've been getting my ducks in a row for another barrel real soon.
 
OK i have a dta and am wondering how many times you can switch barrels before the threads in the chassis become loose or strip out. ie, cycles? Has DT done this till failure or are they sure that it won't. Also can they be helicoiled or does it have to go back to dt. I am ok but as some of these get older and more caliber options show up it will become a reality at some point. Thanks Stan
 
My oldest chassis I used to drag around to gun shows and use as a demo in our booth. I can not fathom how many times I have swapped conversions in that rifle. If john q shooter can wear one out I'd be damned impressed.

In that event I'd venture a guess that DT warranty would step up and make all silky smooth again.
 
In that event I'd venture a guess that DT warranty would step up and make all silky smooth again.

Well that is true but If you remember from the other site I had an issue with a barrel and since I was not the original buyer no warranty. Yes you offered to step up and look at it, and found nothing wrong with it [i had to get a small base die] to fix the problem and i did have you spin a barrel for me [308] and it shoots great, have done a few comps with it but no podium finishes [not that good] but still had fun and did better than some shooting the creeds Stan
 
Well that is true but If you remember from the other site I had an issue with a barrel and since I was not the original buyer no warranty. Yes you offered to step up and look at it, and found nothing wrong with it [i had to get a small base die] to fix the problem and i did have you spin a barrel for me [308] and it shoots great, have done a few comps with it but no podium finishes [not that good] but still had fun and did better than some shooting the creeds Stan

Well, shit... you got me pinned down there. lol

I guess I'll leave DT to comment on what DT would do.
 
this is what you guys talking about 50s are looking for: a 41" Lilja barrel with an 8" 1.625 shank (turned to 1.620) that slightly tapers to 41" and an AR50 brake. 36.5# and about 56" stem to stern. I was a "375 is best" guy till I put this together, now I'm not so sure. That's factory ammo shot in an indoor tunnel which had tremendous blast. the blank is 50sp10 on this page: http://riflebarrels.com/fifty-caliber-special-contours/ The blank alone is 17#, AR50 brake weighs almost 4#. This thing recoils like a braked 338 or 375, a pussycat by comparison to the stock HTI barrel.

And please stop saying the Barrett is a sniper rifle, for your sake. While you can say whatever you want, it just betrays ignorance. :)
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OK i have a dta and am wondering how many times you can switch barrels before the threads in the chassis become loose or strip out. ie, cycles? Has DT done this till failure or are they sure that it won't. Also can they be helicoiled or does it have to go back to dt. I am ok but as some of these get older and more caliber options show up it will become a reality at some point. Thanks Stan

I bought my DT in 2010 and have been using it as a demo rifle since then. I've got 5 different barrels of my own and swap them all the time. I also use it for test firing other barrels I make up or those customers have issues with (2nd opinion type tests). I've had no problems with the threads pulling out or the brass washers under the bolts galling. I think the key is that I pulled the thing apart when I got it and put nickel anti-seize on the threads and on the bearing surfaces of the washer and bolt. Copper anti-sieze is a bad idea as it can cause corrosion between the aluminum of the receiver and the steel of the bolts. Carbon/graphite is a bad idea for the same reasons. Nickel it more neutral for galvanic corrosion purposes. It does help to have some lube on those points and it will help insure a long and useful life of the threads. This is something DT should have maybe done at the factory and buyers should do if they didn't.
In addition, what I didn't know when I bought the rifle is that the screws and nuts holding the skins on would come loose over time. We were at a long range shoot in Wyoming not long after I got the rifle and I started having some weird problems. Turned out the screws were coming loose in the skins and they were flexing. At that point I pulled them all out and using purple loctite 222 I re-did all the screws and nuts on the skins. Purple is a low torque loctite made for small fasteners and it holds well enough to keep them from coming loose without being so strong that the fastener breaks before the joint does. Since then I've had no more problems in that dept.

Hope that helps

Frank
 
Hey guys have a quick question, is there any special product you guys use to get the DTA bolt all nice and slick? Either when cleaning or some other treatment? Thanks!


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That HTI looks crazy! And nice grouping! You're thinking you might prefer that setup to a 375? I guess I'm leaning towards 50 for fun, 375 for performance, especially if I can still keep it down around the stock HTI length and weight. But I'm looking to get as much info as I can before taking the plunge. For now, I'll stick with my SRS in 308, and then swap it out for 6.5. My skill level really doesn't warrant an HTI in any caliber just yet.
 
50 is not "for fun" unless u like getting the shit kicked out of you. The 17# 41" bbl was for a reason - minimize recoil and keep the massive blast away from the shooter. Tread lightly bc the 50 dont
 
About a month ago (page 271) we were talking about the SRS grip. I find it to be of the proper angles, but a bit slippery. I may have found a decent and pretty cheap solution.

I found a Pachmayr Grip Glove at a local store and thought it might work. They are very stretchy and slip right over the SRS grip. They have a lot of different models, but I used the S&W M&P full size because it looked the closest. Not sure if there's one that's a bit taller. If so, it may work even better, but this one has the finger swells that line up nicely with those on the SRS. It think it's got a good feel. You may disagree.

Just thought I'd share:

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Anyone have any experience with the covert chassis and the 26" 338 barrel? How bad is shooting extreme long range with the bipod so close? I did Gunsite's long range course with a Ruger RPR and am now going to do the extreme long range which requires 1000-2000 capable round. The covert offers a 18" 338 barrel, but I'm thinking if I researched correctly that the muzzle velocity drops by 260 from 26 to 18, and I may not reach my targets.

How difficult is it to switch from the standard SRS to the covert? Is it a quick swap?

Anyone got a good deal on a SRS? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Anyone have any experience with the covert chassis and the 26" 338 barrel? How bad is shooting extreme long range with the bipod so close? I did Gunsite's long range course with a Ruger RPR and am now going to do the extreme long range which requires 1000-2000 capable round. The covert offers a 18" 338 barrel, but I'm thinking if I researched correctly that the muzzle velocity drops by 260 from 26 to 18, and I may not reach my targets.

How difficult is it to switch from the standard SRS to the covert? Is it a quick swap?

Anyone got a good deal on a SRS? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

I have been wondering the same thing. I am also struggling to find a price on a full length guard. I see some good deals on more coverts and would like to know if the price on a full length would be worth getting the covert and swapping. I'm guessing the function of a full length would work better with a 26" barrel not to mention would look way better.
 
Someone on Scout had a Covert with a 30" 338 barrel in it and it looked amazing. lol I am all for aesthetics, but don't underestimate the cool factor.

I had a full sized hand guard and I now run a covert with a 26" 6.5CM and 26" 300wm barrel. You don't lose any functionality, unless you do a lot of barricade shooting. Even then I don't think you would run into too many issues.
 
Someone on Scout had a Covert with a 30" 338 barrel in it and it looked amazing. lol I am all for aesthetics, but don't underestimate the cool factor.

I had a full sized hand guard and I now run a covert with a 26" 6.5CM and 26" 300wm barrel. You don't lose any functionality, unless you do a lot of barricade shooting. Even then I don't think you would run into too many issues.

I think you are thinking of Dan from SAC and if I remember correctly it was 33"
 
You don't lose any functionality, unless you do a lot of barricade shooting. Even then I don't think you would run into too many issues.

Well I was thinking more of the bipod placement and getting back on target. Having the bipod out as far as possible would make target acquisition and small adjustments easier.

Is an 18" 338 barrel capable of 1000-2000 yards? I'm not thinking it is, and thats why 26" is the sweet spot.

Also is the just the handguard/rail that can be replaced, or is that connected to the entire chassis/upper? I haven't seen any for sale or any pictures of them separate from the gun.
 
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Well I was thinking more of the bipod placement and getting back on target. Having the bipod out as far as possible would make target acquisition and small adjustments easier.

Is an 18" 338 barrel capable of 1000-2000 yards? I'm not thinking it is, and thats why 26" is the sweet spot.

Depends on your DA, but Ive shot the 18" 300wm to 1400 and the 18" 338 to 1500.
 
Well I was thinking more of the bipod placement and getting back on target. Having the bipod out as far as possible would make target acquisition and small adjustments easier.

Is an 18" 338 barrel capable of 1000-2000 yards? I'm not thinking it is, and thats why 26" is the sweet spot.

Also is the just the handguard/rail that can be replaced, or is that connected to the entire chassis/upper? I haven't seen any for sale or any pictures of them separate from the gun.

Having the bipod way out doesn't really help much of anything. The rifle with a 32" barrel and the bipod at the front of the covert handguard is every bit as stable as the SRS. There is only about 5.5" difference in location. I like the covert location a lot better as it allows quicker swivel of the rifle for targets spread across a wider area, at least compared to my light machineguns that have the bipod at the end of the barrel. Compared to when I had the SRS handguard on its not really any change. Not sure why so many ask this question....

I have friends in Texas that are using 18" 338 LM Coverts for shooting at coyotes and other varmints out to 1000 yds and doing quite well. I was surprised when they told me but they had pics and video to back it up. They said the shorter barrel made carrying out in the field a lot easier too. 26" is just what guys were using as standard lengths but a lot of shooters are running longer, out to 34" for 300gr long range stuff while others are running 16" and shooting 210s out to 800 with good effect. Pick what makes you happy and works well for your application.

The handguard is attached in its entirety to the receiver. On the early guns it screwed directly onto the receiver which has a male thread. On the newer guns there is a threaded sleeve that fits into both the receiver and the handguard with opposite threads to pull them together. No way to change just the rail.

As frequently stated by myself and many others throughout the thread, the short covert handguard allows you to use any length barrel down to 16" with enough sticking out to put a thread on for a suppressor. You can use a barrel of any longer length as well. With the SRS handguard you're limited to barrels of 22" or more so pick what fits your needs.

Frank
 
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