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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#8,201
Okay, well it's settled then. Now on the hunt for an SRS Covert... and just gotta rob a bank. Figure I'd order directly from DT, don't that have LEO/MIL pricing? Thought I remember seeing something about that several months ago. Guess if I find one at a local dealer in North Carolina I could trade in my Ruger RPR towards it. What a great rifle to start long distance with.
 
#8,203
biffj said:
The handguard is attached in its entirety to the receiver. On the early guns it screwed directly onto the receiver which has a male thread. On the newer guns there is a threaded sleeve that fits into both the receiver and the handguard with opposite threads to pull them together. No way to change just the rail.


Frank
Click to expand...

A dealer I just spoke to stated they could order the handguard assembly for the covert if I purchased the SRS and he would show me how interchange them. Is this possible?
 
#8,204
Sericus said:
A dealer I just spoke to stated they could order the handguard assembly for the covert if I purchased the SRS and he would show me how interchange them. Is this possible?
Click to expand...

Easily possible, but not worth it. Just order the Covert and if you REALLY find yourself wanting the extra handguard length, spend the $500 to extend it.

I had both at the same time so I could switch them back and forth if I wanted to, and the covert simply does the job just fine.
 
#8,206
This is a covert with the 26" 300wm barrel + a Fat Bastard brake to add some inches. You won't regret it.
 

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#8,207
Sericus said:
Okay, well it's settled then. Now on the hunt for an SRS Covert... and just gotta rob a bank. Figure I'd order directly from DT, don't that have LEO/MIL pricing? Thought I remember seeing something about that several months ago. Guess if I find one at a local dealer in North Carolina I could trade in my Ruger RPR towards it. What a great rifle to start long distance with.
Click to expand...

I bought a used SRS here for about $4200 with 6.5CM barrel. Nothing against our great dealer population, but I think you can get that same rate I got easily if you keep your eyes peeled. Haven't seen many in .338LM up for sale, but it's worth watching for.
 
#8,210
I know this was brought up before, but I could not find many great answers...

What is a good 34mm - 20moa scope ring / mount to go with the SRS -- and fits your cheek weld?

Seems like many of them, even the AR one-piece type are too low for me. I know everyone has different face dimensions, but...
I currently have a 30mm mount that is 1.43" from rail to centerline of scope tube, and while that is perfect on my AR10, it's too low for my SRS. I really have to mash my cheek down to get the right sight picture.

I looked at the Nightforce and Leupold mounts (and others) but most appear to be between 1.45 and 1.5 inches from rail top to tube centerline. Not much higher than what I got.

The DT mount: https://deserttech.com/accessories.php?item=2223 says it's 2.53" but doesn't bother to mention where they measured from or to. Orkan, is that still the same mount you detailed back in 2013 here? http://www.sniperforums.com/forum/optics/44566-desert-tech-1-piece-scope-mount.html

Just wondering what everyone has had success with. If I get one that's a little too high, I can just move the cheek piece up a bit, but when it's too low, there's not much I can do except live with a less than ideal hold.

 
#8,212
orkan said:
Yup, they are largely unchanged. Cant' go with a lower mount and still clear the rail on a 56mm scope.
Click to expand...

Ok. I don't want to go lower. I believe I would need to go higher.

My current mount is 1.43" from rail to tube centerline. Your measurement on the DT mount shows .800" from rail to bottom of scope tube, so if we add .669" (17mm), we get 1.469" to tube centerline. That's not much higher than what I got.
 
#8,213
SupressYourself said:
Ok. I don't want to go lower. I believe I would need to go higher.

My current mount is 1.43" from rail to tube centerline. Your measurement on the DT mount shows .800" from rail to bottom of scope tube, so if we add .669" (17mm), we get 1.469" to tube centerline. That's not much higher than what I got.
Click to expand...

I might have an option for you, Barrett ExRings, 1.7 from rail to center; I swapped things up on my A1 and now using the RRS mount because it's lower. if you have an interest shoot me a PM.
6687034mm 20/30 MOA (1.7" Dual MOA Setting)816715010438
 
#8,214
SupressYourself said:
Ok. I don't want to go lower. I believe I would need to go higher.

My current mount is 1.43" from rail to tube centerline. Your measurement on the DT mount shows .800" from rail to bottom of scope tube, so if we add .669" (17mm), we get 1.469" to tube centerline. That's not much higher than what I got.
Click to expand...

The DT mount spec is 1.5" and typically requires many users to raise the A1 cheek piece up. Some of my customers have the cheek piece at the highest point and still need more height. ... so there's about zero chance the DT mount would be too low for you.
 
#8,215
The coating has come off of the inside of the receiver. And now it is bare aluminum. Does anyone know of a way to recoat it or does it need to go back to the factory?
 
#8,220
Thats a good question with about a million answers. Some run them dry, others with grease, oil, drylube, moly........
I try not to use grease or oil since they suck dust from the air and I grew up out west where grass is something you work to make grow, not something that you can't kill like indiana where I am now. I used a dry moly lube on mine and it works great. My buddy runs his dry and loves it, another buddy uses a synthetic grease that works very well. My suggestion is do what you like best and see what you think. Its kind of like cleaning and with all the opinions and results there doesn't seem to be just one set answer.

Frank
 
#8,221
I finally ordered a new scope mount; Spuhr ISM with a height of 1.73". Same one I've got now, but my current one is 1.5" high. Even though that seems pretty standard, I just need extra height it seems. Ultimately gonna throw the Gen II Razor and Spuhr onto my GAP 10, which already has a noticeable difference in height from cheek piece to picatinny, and just put the new Spuhr and new Razor on the DT.

Any of you guys shoot your DTs with sand bags instead of the monopod? I lost my bags, so I haven't tried it. I kinda feel like I wanna shift over, just wondering if there's enough room with that magazine.
 
#8,224
Its moly lube....not sure of the brand. Its a spray can and the material is grey when sprayed on. Look at your local hardware store. Be aware it gets all over anything it touches like anti-seize. Keep it light.

I started out with sandbags and bought the monopod setup for my rifle. I'll never go back to bags. Its just like cleaning and lube.....opinions all over the place so get out and try different things before you shell out the cash.

Frank
 
#8,227
Not much happening on this thread at the moment so hoping it's an opportune time to ask for some advice. Was at the range and picked up some Trail Boss they had on sale and want to try my hand at loading some subsonic rounds for a DTA with a 22" 308 barrel, suppressed. I plan to use these for plinking and have never loaded subsonic before so looking for some guidance.
Whats a good bullet to start with, I have lots of VLD's in various weights but don't think these will be appropriate and sure there are better bullets for a subsonic load. From what little I know on the subject it appears this is one time when you want to start high and work your way down. Could one of you give me a bullet suggestion and starting powder weight for that bullet to work down from? Appreciate any advice given.
 
#8,228
Fishkat said:
Not much happening on this thread at the moment so hoping it's an opportune time to ask for some advice. Was at the range and picked up some Trail Boss they had on sale and want to try my hand at loading some subsonic rounds for a DTA with a 22" 308 barrel, suppressed. I plan to use these for plinking and have never loaded subsonic before so looking for some guidance.
Whats a good bullet to start with, I have lots of VLD's in various weights but don't think these will be appropriate and sure there are better bullets for a subsonic load. From what little I know on the subject it appears this is one time when you want to start high and work your way down. Could one of you give me a bullet suggestion and starting powder weight for that bullet to work down from? Appreciate any advice given.
Click to expand...

Your 1:11" barrel is going to be a struggle in this endeavor. I would think the heaviest you would want to try would be a 175 but it may tumble on you.
 
#8,229
Hondo1 said:
Your 1:11" barrel is going to be a struggle in this endeavor. I would think the heaviest you would want to try would be a 175 but it may tumble on you.
Click to expand...

Yep. that's the issue for a barrel that is not necessarily made with subs in mind. You typically want to run the heaviest bullet you can so you have retained energy at sub velocity, but your choice is limited by twist rate. I run 220gn Sierra round noses out of my 300 BLK, but that was made for it. I think it's a 1-8 twist.
 
#8,230
SupressYourself said:
Yep. that's the issue for a barrel that is not necessarily made with subs in mind. You typically want to run the heaviest bullet you can so you have retained energy at sub velocity, but your choice is limited by twist rate. I run 220gn Sierra round noses out of my 300 BLK, but that was made for it. I think it's a 1-8 twist.
Click to expand...

I've had great luck with 208's and 11gr of trailboss but that was with a 1:8" 16" barrel. The overall barrel length and twist will not make it easy.
 
#8,231
Thanks Hondo1 and SupressYourself, glad the Trail Boss was cheap. So what you guys are saying is that the lack of twist will not stabilize the bullet and it will tumble at some point, would you guess that the tumbling would be after it leaves the suppressor? I certainly don't want to screw up the suppressor playing around. Guess i'll save the suppressed loads for another time and rifle, but I learned something so thank you both.
 
#8,233
Fishkat said:
Thanks Hondo1 and SupressYourself, glad the Trail Boss was cheap. So what you guys are saying is that the lack of twist will not stabilize the bullet and it will tumble at some point, would you guess that the tumbling would be after it leaves the suppressor? I certainly don't want to screw up the suppressor playing around. Guess i'll save the suppressed loads for another time and rifle, but I learned something so thank you both.
Click to expand...

Always always always test fire your subs without the suppressor first! If I were you I would still try to find a load that's all part of the fun, it may not work out but then again it could be just fine.
 
#8,235
As someone who builds and repairs suppressors I'd suggest you start with light bullets like maybe 125 or 130 gr and do all your load development without a suppressor installed. Start at the higher velocity end then work your way down to about 1000-1050 fps. Starting too low can get you a bullet stuck in the bore. Once you've got a subsonic load set up a target at 50 feet or so and check to see that the bullets are hitting pointy end first. If they're not it will be obvious as the holes will be oblong. If they're tumbling you may actually see bullet profiles in the paper. Any instability can be enough to trash your suppressor. Just because the bullet isn't tumbling doesn't mean its not wobbling and it doesn't take a big hit on baffle one to insure that baffles 2 through the end are trashed. If its bad enough it can damage the tube and that means another tax paid transfer to replace. When you get your tiny useless bullets to be stable you can work up through heavier bullets til you find the weight where you get pretty consistent tumbling or wobbling. Thats the limit for your rifle and barrel. You are better off building a dedicated barrel or rifle for subs if you really want to shoot them. The whole point is to retain as much energy as possible while cutting the noise down. A slick 220gr 30 cal bullet starting at 1050 fps is still doing over 600 fps at 1000yds and is really quiet. A 125 gr 30 cal bullet is doing less at 400 yds and even if you can hit the target it has a lot less energy to do damage with. I suppose for a toy its not a big deal but if you're really trying to do something useful a subsonic 308 is a waste of time. You're better off with a suppressed 44 mag.

Frank
 
#8,236
Is there any other good powders for the 220 grain bullets? Also, does anyone have a source for learning more about loading subsonics? I'm wanting to play with my covert and the 1/8 twist barrel.
 
#8,237
I finally came to the conclusion that a .308 barrel for my Covert would be pointless....but now ya'll have to go talking about shooting subs. Damnit.

What other calibers are good for subs out of a SRS? Or would one recommend a separate rifle all together?
 
#8,239
biffj said:
As someone who builds and repairs suppressors I'd suggest you start with light bullets like maybe 125 or 130 gr and do all your load development without a suppressor installed. Start at the higher velocity end then work your way down to about 1000-1050 fps. Starting too low can get you a bullet stuck in the bore. Once you've got a subsonic load set up a target at 50 feet or so and check to see that the bullets are hitting pointy end first. If they're not it will be obvious as the holes will be oblong. If they're tumbling you may actually see bullet profiles in the paper. Any instability can be enough to trash your suppressor. Just because the bullet isn't tumbling doesn't mean its not wobbling and it doesn't take a big hit on baffle one to insure that baffles 2 through the end are trashed. If its bad enough it can damage the tube and that means another tax paid transfer to replace. When you get your tiny useless bullets to be stable you can work up through heavier bullets til you find the weight where you get pretty consistent tumbling or wobbling. Thats the limit for your rifle and barrel. You are better off building a dedicated barrel or rifle for subs if you really want to shoot them. The whole point is to retain as much energy as possible while cutting the noise down. A slick 220gr 30 cal bullet starting at 1050 fps is still doing over 600 fps at 1000yds and is really quiet. A 125 gr 30 cal bullet is doing less at 400 yds and even if you can hit the target it has a lot less energy to do damage with. I suppose for a toy its not a big deal but if you're really trying to do something useful a subsonic 308 is a waste of time. You're better off with a suppressed 44 mag.

Frank
Click to expand...

Thanks Biffj, I'll take your advice and shit can this idea with the 308. However I really appreciate you taking time to offer a method for developing a subsonic load, that's some good info for the future.
I appreciate everyone's response.
 
#8,241
I haven't shot my 16" 308 much but I ordered 60 rounds of ammo to see how it does with the suppressor before I order some trailboss. They will be here tomorrow and I plan on shooting Wednesday
 
#8,242
I've actually been looking at getting the 16" 308 barrel for my srs for the sole purpose of shooting subsonic so the timing of this discussion is perfect. Does any one have some loads/bullets they've used sucssfully? I know I need to experiment myself but just wondering what has worked for others to have a rough idea of what I'm getting into.
​​​​​​
 
#8,243
SRPowah said:
I finally came to the conclusion that a .308 barrel for my Covert would be pointless....but now ya'll have to go talking about shooting subs. Damnit.

What other calibers are good for subs out of a SRS? Or would one recommend a separate rifle all together?
Click to expand...

I'm sure you could do a 300 blackout based on the 223 system available.

I prefer the 338 BR (benchrest) as its based on the 308 1.5" case firing 300 gr Sierra Matchkings or equivalent weight bullets at subsonic speeds. It is the most Hollywood quiet round I've yet fired and is really accurate. In addition if you feel you must have a supersonic load for it you can run 180gr bullets at about 2350 fps or so from a 17" barrel. I think I've made up about 20 barrels in this cal so far and no unhappy people. We use Lapua 6mmBR Norma cases necked up to 338 and they are long lasting and accurate. If you can find Remington 7mmBR cases they work but as with most of the stuff remington does the quality is hit and miss. I've had cases split after one round and others that seem to go on and on. I use my 338 Lapua Mag suppressor for this round, its quiet and hard hitting.

Next in popularity is the 510 whisper / 12.7 X 48. We aren't allowed to call it a whisper since JD jones has the name trademarked. It is based on the 338 Lapua Mag cases cut down and with a neck turned for a shoulder to headspace off. It will use any of the military or commercial 50 cal BMG bullets as well as a number of special subsonic turned brass types made by Lehigh or others. Its a little louder than the 338 but tosses a 700 gr bullet with ease and the hornady AMAX is really really accurate in this cartridge. Surplus bullets allow a number of "active" possibility like tracers or incindiary. Tracers light up with no problems and the indcindiary bullets pop when you hit hard targets out to about 600 yds. This is another cal with supersonic possibility too. I've run 350gr Barnes soft flat points at 2200 fps in a 17" barrel.

All 3 of these cartridges were really meant for subsonic loading and work very well at it. They can do supersonics but not as well as rounds intended for that. The 308 is a great supersonic round but never intended for subs and it shows. When loading subsonic you get what you get. Powder choices are limited and accuracy may not be very good. For novelty its ok but I don't think its much good otherwise as a subsonic.

Frank
 
#8,245
averageJOEschmo said:
I've actually been looking at getting the 16" 308 barrel for my srs for the sole purpose of shooting subsonic so the timing of this discussion is perfect. Does any one have some loads/bullets they've used sucssfully? I know I need to experiment myself but just wondering what has worked for others to have a rough idea of what I'm getting into.
​​​​​​
Click to expand...

This probably won't work the same in a 308, but I use 11.4 gr of Accurate 1680 in my 1-8 twist 16" 300 blackout with 220gr Sierra. It's intended as a short range thumper and shoots as well as I can out to 50 yards with a reflex sight. I really liked the 208 gr A-max until Hornady decided they were obsolete.
 
#8,246
averageJOEschmo said:
What kind of accuracy are you seeing out of the 300 blackout vs the 308 subs? What kind of max effective range do you typically see from both?
Click to expand...

My SRS Blackout barrel shoots MOA with 195 Hornady's at 1000FPS, and just under with 150FP at 2400ish. My 16" 308 shooting 220RN was a little bigger, like 1.5-2 MOA, but did better with the 210 Bergers, about 1 MOA as well.

Ive shot out to 400 with the Subsonics out of the 308, havent tried that far with the Blk, but I assume it would do the same. Probably more consistent, and therefore better.
 
#8,250
I'd pick the 12.7 X 48 . Brass is out there and though 338 LM brass is pricey you'll get a life of 30-40 shots per case shooting subsonics. I love shooting tracers and API because you get to see where the bullet is going while or when it gets there with a bit more flash. Once you've got brass made up its easy to load and you can load surplus active bullets cheap and get reasonable accuracy or use really good new bullets for super accuracy. Its a neat round with a lot of poop when you need it too. The deer don't go far when hit with a 350 gr Barnes flat soft point at 2000+ fps either....

I like the 338 BR too. Low recoil, really low noise and easy to load for.

Frank
 
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