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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

They are a fun rifle and you will enjoy it for sure.

1-Close 3/4x24 and yes they can be cut to 5/8x24 if that is what you want several Gunsmiths that provide barrels for us have this in their services and show what they charge.

2-Did you try to loosen the screws holding the skins together around the mag well. Just a half turn might take some pressure off the mag. (loctite if needed)

3-Are you asking about scope Zero and shift between barrels? My ballistics calculator allows me to enter the info and it adjusts my dope. Other than that drop the barrel in adjust my scope and shoot.

Enjoy post a pic when you have it all together!

inside the stock panels where the Mag release lever is you can physically spin it in and out ,
you can have more Spring tension so its stiffer to " click " your mag in or softer pressure .
 
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Been pouring over this thread for weeks. Just got a new A1 with 308 and 223 barrels, and waiting on a 6.5CM to ship from DTA. Had a few questions that I didn't see in the last 200 pages.

-A1 bbl threads are 3/4-20 correct? Can this be turned down to 5/8-24 without cutting the barrel?

-SAC 223 conversion, the mag is really tight (DT mag is fine) will that wear in or do I need to shim the skins?

-How are you guys logging your barrel shifts? Was going to get some extra cold bore pages from Storm and have one for each barrel.

I second what bigwatchpilot said.

I just write down my zero for each barrel and use mostly holdovers from my scope... or I dial and go from there. I keep it logged in my phone since I always have it on me . I keep a paper copy on my range bag.

Have fun
 
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ive had them down on paper , but now have a dedicated data book for them . 5 barrels can get messy quick ...
luckily mine are pretty close to each other ,

Zeroed with 308 Barrel

6.5cr same PoI as 308
223 is 1mil up + 1mil right
300WM 0.5 mil up
338NM 0.5mil left windage

so no drastic changes for me
 
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As BigWatchPilot stated and imo the easiest method is to put the offset in your ballistic app. I also record mine in my log book. I'm shooting three different DTA barrels and 0.5 mils is the largest offset.
Another reason I like to use the app is I have multiple powder/load/bullet combinations for each barrel as well as other rifles so each are named in the app, as an example DTA 6.5 140VLD RL16. For me it helps keep all that data straight.
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys! Been wanting one for a long time and finally got one as retirement gift to myself. Trigger is much better than I thought it'd be. Action not smooth as AI but I'm sure that will wear in with time. Have a NF 5-25 F1 on top.

Benchmark is close by I will give them a call to see if they can do a re-thread.

I did not mess with the skins at all yet since the DT mag goes in fine, will give that a shot and see whats what. It is tight before locking in place so thats likely.

App will be my primary for the offsets but I also wanted to log it in hardcopy so I think Ill get an extra "Dedicated Cold Bore Target Data" page from Storm so when I end up with a dozen barrels (hah) I can have them all on one sheet.

Any DT shooters in WA want to get together when all this coronabullshitvirus is over with?

Edit pics

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I traded from an A1 full to A2 covert, but unfortunately the trigger LOP is no longer adjustable. Which sucks bad. I got some talon grips and added a little material to the area where the web of my hand sits. Hopefully will keep me from needing to squeeze at an odd angle.
#stuffwedowhenquarantined
 

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How are 140 ELDs shooting through the factory 6.5CM barrels? Have a few thou of them so will almost exclusively be shooting them with H4350. Ditto for Hornady 75 BTHP for 223 would be nice to get 2900 fps or better, 26" with a can should be easy enough.

This lock down sucks ass, stuck at home but everything everywhere is OOS or delayed shipping. Plenty of time to dry fire I suppose.
 
How are 140 ELDs shooting through the factory 6.5CM barrels? Have a few thou of them so will almost exclusively be shooting them with H4350. Ditto for Hornady 75 BTHP for 223 would be nice to get 2900 fps or better, 26" with a can should be easy enough.

This lock down sucks ass, stuck at home but everything everywhere is OOS or delayed shipping. Plenty of time to dry fire I suppose.

I think you'll be able to work up a great load with them. Don't forget to play with seating depth.
 
I built a 33XC barrel for my SRS a little over a year ago and have shot it quite a lot. Yes, it will eject a live round no problem. The 33XC won't mag feed which for me isn't a problem. I tend to single feed most of the time anyway. The 33XC is long enough and big enough that it single feeds very well with just an empty mag in place. I have a block type feed sled made by a friend to single feed everything else.

I set the 33XC up to run the copper solids so its not taking bullets away from my 338 Lapua Mag which I'm definitely not getting rid of. They both have their uses. The barrel is 32" long and quite heavy and has been really good for getting way out there. 2600 yds so far. I've run the 338 LM out to 2000yds but the when we did that shoot the targets stopped there. Last year they went to 2700 on that range but I didn't have time to get the 338 out.

If you're thinking of a long range round for your DT the 33 or 37XC would be good choices. Neither will mag feed so keep that in mind. They will work well in the platform however and there is brass available too. Graf and Sons now has 33XC brass in stock so you don't have to deal with Tubb. I've had no problems with Tubb myself but he is no charmer and I have some customers who refuse to deal with him. As far as I know he is the only source for dies.

Hope that helps

Frank
 
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The barrel extension uses up .845" of the blank end so you will have a pretty short shank if you start with only 5". Also the barrel needs to be 1.250" diameter plus zero and minus only .001". If its any smaller the clamps will have some issues returning to size for properly sized barrels. A lot of blanks will need material removed from the diameter to make sure the bore is concentric with the outer surface. Keep this in mind. I've never used a Proof Research blank so I have no idea on them.
Last, if your barrel grip surface is an inch short the front clamp bolt might distort the receiver making it tough to remove your barrel or to fit any others. If you have a short barrel like that don't use the front clamp or any that are unsupported.

Just things to keep in mind. I always buy oversized blanks to insure I can keep the bore and barrel concentric. It makes life a lot easier with keeping all your barrels within minor adjustments on the scope when you change them.

Frank
 
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@GMZ how is your SAC 223 bolt ejecting? My bolt fails to eject a case every 3rd round or so... still love shooting it but that sure makes it not as enjoyable having to pull a case out of bolt slide area that often.
 
@GMZ how is your SAC 223 bolt ejecting? My bolt fails to eject a case every 3rd round or so... still love shooting it but that sure makes it not as enjoyable having to pull a case out of bolt slide area that often.

I had some erratic ejection for the first few mags. Some rounds would eject and bounce off my hand back into the action, some would just dribble out. Chalked it up to new gun and new SRS shooter. By the time I was done with the box of ammo it was gtg. Gave it a good cleaning and will be mindful next time out, seems to like being run hard.
 
Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a hold of @ES-Tactical . Any other good affordable smiths that specialize in DTA barrels? I would go SAC but unfortunately they are out of my budget at the moment.

FYI, I called Eric last Thursday and talked with him about some details on the barrel I was getting ready to order. So he is around, remember he doesn’t work Wednesday or the weekend.
Good luck, as already mentioned there are a number of good smith’s that can spin up a barrel for you.
 
For you guys with 22” barrels where does the shoulder sit in relation to the end of the handguard distance wise?

My Sandman suppressor has some overhang of the shoulder of about .050
 
For you guys with 22” barrels where does the shoulder sit in relation to the end of the handguard distance wise?

My Sandman suppressor has some overhang of the shoulder of about .050

Most are 22.5" barrels and that gives you roughly a half inch to work with.

You can always run something like the area 419 brake/suppressor adapters to get you another half inch or so if needed.
 
For you guys with 22” barrels where does the shoulder sit in relation to the end of the handguard distance wise?

My Sandman suppressor has some overhang of the shoulder of about .050
Here is a pick of my 22" .338 Norma AI with a TBAC Ultra. No issues at all with an older SRS. My old man making it happen
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Hi All,

Newbie into the SRS platform, looking to purchase my first chassis and off-load a few bolt rifles I don’t shoot anymore. Long time SH lurker, rarely post. I’m excited to jump into this next “stage” of versatility and capability with the platform:giggle:

Always happy to hear any initial “need to know” information as I read through this entire thread and catch up on the knowledge. Thanks!
 
Welcome buddy. There is a lot of information and I continue to learn volumes on this thread. I don't know if you have seen this but some great information all in one spot: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/resources/desert-tech-srs-hti-covert-hunter-resource.27/

Hi All,

Newbie into the SRS platform, looking to purchase my first chassis and off-load a few bolt rifles I don’t shoot anymore. Long time SH lurker, rarely post. I’m excited to jump into this next “stage” of versatility and capability with the platform:giggle:

Always happy to hear any initial “need to know” information as I read through this entire thread and catch up on the knowledge. Thanks!
 
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