Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

[Bradu]

Has anyone ever seen or made a bag rider for the SRS? When shooting my 37xc barrel in the ELR style of static prone, I feel like it could use one.
I’ve had other rifles with riders and they can be pretty sweet and make a positive difference

I messed around with one but ended up scratching the idea. I didn't want to modify the monopod too much and needed a lathe to do what I really wanted to keep it from rotating. Later on I made an adjustable pad setup since I couldn't find anyone selling the guy made on here. I left it long and was going to attach a piece of round stock to it but didn't like the was it turned out.

 

[65x55guy]

Anyone who doesn’t want their monopod let me know and we might work something out.

 

[Keens]

Anyone who doesn’t want their monopod let me know and we might work something out.

PM’d.

 

[Adam B]

Ah the ol “2 more weeks”...Assuming you mean DT yes the earthquake in UT shut them down and then the virus shit hit right after. Been waiting on a few things from them myself. Pretty sure at least one of our DT dealers here has one in stock?

I get them at dealer cost so I have to order from DTA

 

[Keens]

I get them at dealer cost so I have to order from DTA

So uh... I have a range you can come shoot at. And a daughter you can marry.

 

[canezach]

Gentlemen, is there a difference between the A1 bolt and the A2 bolt? Will an A2 bolt work in the A1 chassis? I'm looking for a RH 300WM bolt and can buy an A2 bolt for $290, but all the A1 bolts are back ordered or "discontinued" on the sites I've visited.

 

[srt-4_uk]

The difference is the fluting on the A2. They interchange fine

 

[Keens]

I just realized my optic mounted in a SPHUR 4002 (0MOA) is going to be on this 0 MOA Chassis... Man, that’s hard to chew, mount is almost brand new. I’ll be shooting 308, 6mm, 6.5, and 300 Norma to 2000+ so I’ll need the elevation adjustment. Looking for opinions.

I’ve seen some pictures of SP4901 (30mm, 1.18” height) mounts used on the A2s w/ 56mm objectives as the bell clears the base and doesn’t touch the flat handguard. Looks to be a perfect fit for a TT525.

So..
SP-4901
SP-4902
SP-4802
Others?

All suggestions welcomed.

 

[srt-4_uk]

I used a 4802 with my M7Xi, M5Xi, and Athlon Cronus. No problems getting a 100yd zero and maximizing my scopes travel.

 

[Kopfjager1]

Even with the clearance of the A2, a low mount may not be suitable for a proper cheekweld in various positions. 1.5" is going to offer the most adaptability when it come to positions other than prone. And even when prone, a 1.5" mount allows for a more vertical head position, rather rolling your head onto the gun. I'm not sure which mount it was from Spuhr, but the 44.4 1.496" will probably be best for ELR. I had about 1 mRad below zero for .308 Win at 100 with a Vortex Razor G2.

 

[Keens]

Even with the clearance of the A2, a low mount may not be suitable for a proper cheekweld in various positions. 1.5" is going to offer the most adaptability when it come to positions other than prone. And even when prone, a 1.5" mount allows for a more vertical head position, rather rolling your head onto the gun. I'm not sure which mount it was from Spuhr, but the 44.4 1.496" will probably be best for ELR. I had about 1 mRad below zero for .308 Win at 100 with a Vortex Razor G2.

Thanks for the info- SP 4802. Do you have a picture of your rifle you could post? I’d be interested to see it.

 

[DoctorBen]

Anyone who doesn’t want their monopod let me know and we might work something out.

I have one as well; Ordered whole kit from DTA directly. They shipped everything but the chassis for 3mo. Cancelled order, order from Special Purpose Rifles. Ships with monopod installed.

 

[GMZ]

Even with the clearance of the A2, a low mount may not be suitable for a proper cheekweld in various positions. 1.5" is going to offer the most adaptability when it come to positions other than prone. And even when prone, a 1.5" mount allows for a more vertical head position, rather rolling your head onto the gun. I'm not sure which mount it was from Spuhr, but the 44.4 1.496" will probably be best for ELR. I had about 1 mRad below zero for .308 Win at 100 with a Vortex Razor G2.

Agree 100% with this. I had a 4006 (1.35”) I had on my AXMC and it was ok on a square range from a bench or flat prone (ie perfect alignment) but in the woods, weird angles etc I had to really focus on getting that perfect cheekweld.

Switched to a 1.57 ARC Q10 and it’s much better.

 

[Kopfjager1]

Thanks for the info- SP 4802. Do you have a picture of your rifle you could post? I’d be interested to see it.

 

[mountainman308]

Gentlemen, is there a difference between the A1 bolt and the A2 bolt? Will an A2 bolt work in the A1 chassis? I'm looking for a RH 300WM bolt and can buy an A2 bolt for $290, but all the A1 bolts are back ordered or "discontinued" on the sites I've visited.

Where are you finding bolts in stock? I’ll be looking to buy an A2 308 bolt once this next paycheck clears. My usual places all seem to be out of stock.

 

[Keens]

View attachment 7304860

Now that’s a cool backyard.

 

[jbrand11]

I just realized my optic mounted in a SPHUR 4002 (0MOA) is going to be on this 0 MOA Chassis... Man, that’s hard to chew, mount is almost brand new. I’ll be shooting 308, 6mm, 6.5, and 300 Norma to 2000+ so I’ll need the elevation adjustment. Looking for opinions.


I’ve seen some pictures of SP4901 (30mm, 1.18” height) mounts used on the A2s w/ 56mm objectives as the bell clears the base and doesn’t touch the flat handguard. Looks to be a perfect fit for a TT525.

So..
SP-4901
SP-4902
SP-4802
Others?

All suggestions welcomed.

Check out the Eratac adjustable mount. There’s an old thread on here about it also.

 

[M77]

dont buy a 4802 mount , go the next size up which is the SPuhr 4808 1.73" vs 1.5" . gives you better usage of your adjustable cheek piece too .
i know if i was doing it again id go a higher mount and my scope caps would clear with out hitting the handguard , which isnt a issue on the A2

 

[panhndl]

I’m literally at whit’s end. When I switch barrels, I lose zero. Usually about 1-1.5” shift in any direction, but can be over 2” on my ES Tactical. My SAC .223 is more consistent but it does shift a bit.

I am using the cheap ass torque T that came with the rifle. Is that the likely offender?

Anyone have a cool trick that settled your switch problems down you can share? I’m sick of having to zero my rifle every time I switch a barrel.

Thanks

 

[canezach]

I’m literally at whit’s end. When I switch barrels, I lose zero. Usually about 1-1.5” shift in any direction, but can be over 2” on my ES Tactical. My SAC .223 is more consistent but it does shift a bit.

I am using the cheap ass torque T that came with the rifle. Is that the likely offender?

Anyone have a cool trick that settled your switch problems down you can share? I’m sick of having to zero my rifle every time I switch a barrel.

Thanks

Just to ensure I'm reading your post correctly, you aren't talking about a POI shift between calibers, which is completely normal and expected, but your return to zero when, let's say for example, you are zeroed for your 308 barrel, take the barrel out, drop the 308 barrel back in, and now your zero has shifted?

First, I don't know what kind of torque wrench you're using, since mine didn't come with one. I bought a Borka kit back in 2009 or 10 when I bought my first Desert Tactical Arms (there's a throwback for you guys!) and it's still as solid as ever! I'd try my second and third recommendation first, since that'll cost you absolutely nothing, but it's possible your torque wrench is off significantly.

Second, I always do my best to install my barrels the same way every time. I slide the barrel in, ensure the bolt engages, and will twist the barrel counterclockwise so the extension contacts the feed ramp in the same place every single time as I'm tightening the bolts in the same pattern 1, 3, 2, and 4 (from extension to muzzle)

Third, check your scope rings or mount. Make sure they're torqued to the scope manufacturer's spec so your scope isn't slipping.

 

[panhndl]

Just to ensure I'm reading your post correctly, you aren't talking about a POI shift between calibers, which is completely normal and expected, but your return to zero when, let's say for example, you are zeroed for your 308 barrel, take the barrel out, drop the 308 barrel back in, and now your zero has shifted?

First, I don't know what kind of torque wrench you're using, since mine didn't come with one. I bought a Borka kit back in 2009 or 10 when I bought my first Desert Tactical Arms (there's a throwback for you guys!) and it's still as solid as ever! I'd try my second and third recommendation first, since that'll cost you absolutely nothing, but it's possible your torque wrench is off significantly.

Second, I always do my best to install my barrels the same way every time. I slide the barrel in, ensure the bolt engages, and will twist the barrel counterclockwise so the extension contacts the feed ramp in the same place every single time as I'm tightening the bolts in the same pattern 1, 3, 2, and 4 (from extension to muzzle)

Third, check your scope rings or mount. Make sure they're torqued to the scope manufacturer's spec so your scope isn't slipping.

Yes. When I go from 6.5 to 223, there would be an expected shift. When I switch back to 6.5, the POI of the 6.5 from the previous zero is off at least an inch and often 2+. The 223 barrel shifts some but less than 1” usually.

I am installing the same every time, as well.
Slide barrel in, rotate barrel counter clockwise, close bolt, torque bolts from muzzle back. When changing, untorque bolts from muzzle back, pull barrel out, put new barrel in, rotate, close bolt, re-torque.

I remove the bolt and install the next caliber bolt before starting the barrel removal process. I always keep the rifle on its butt pointing up during the process.

I have checked the mount and scope, but I’m tempted to remove everything and start over to see if it helps.

I will try rotating the barrel after I close the bolt to see if it helps

 

[65x55guy]

Yes. When I go from 6.5 to 223, there would be an expected shift. When I switch back to 6.5, the POI of the 6.5 from the previous zero is off at least an inch and often 2+. The 223 barrel shifts some but less than 1” usually.

I am installing the same every time, as well.
Slide barrel in, rotate barrel counter clockwise, close bolt, torque bolts from muzzle back. When changing, untorque bolts from muzzle back, pull barrel out, put new barrel in, rotate, close bolt, re-torque.

I remove the bolt and install the next caliber bolt before starting the barrel removal process. I always keep the rifle on its butt pointing up during the process.

I have checked the mount and scope, but I’m tempted to remove everything and start over to see if it helps.

I will try rotating the barrel after I close the bolt to see if it helps

curious if it hits predictably if you change barrels, set zero, then move around or bump it. Curious if scope mount could be loose. I’ve had rings that got loose and allowed scope movement. But scope only really shifted when I bumped rifle.

 

[panhndl]

curious if it hits predictably if you change barrels, set zero, then move around or bump it. Curious if scope mount could be loose. I’ve had rings that got loose and allowed scope movement. But scope only really shifted when I bumped rifle.

To be honest, I haven't tried bumping the scope to see if it is just a loose mount. I check to see if the mount or scope is loose, but not with my torque wrench. I just check to see if I can rotate the scope by hand.

 

[goosed]

Yes. When I go from 6.5 to 223, there would be an expected shift. When I switch back to 6.5, the POI of the 6.5 from the previous zero is off at least an inch and often 2+. The 223 barrel shifts some but less than 1” usually.

I am installing the same every time, as well.
Slide barrel in, rotate barrel counter clockwise, close bolt, torque bolts from muzzle back. When changing, untorque bolts from muzzle back, pull barrel out, put new barrel in, rotate, close bolt, re-torque.

I remove the bolt and install the next caliber bolt before starting the barrel removal process. I always keep the rifle on its butt pointing up during the process.

I have checked the mount and scope, but I’m tempted to remove everything and start over to see if it helps.

I will try rotating the barrel after I close the bolt to see if it helps

The one thing that makes a difference on my chassis is putting pressure in a specific direction each time. I rest mine on the butt stock, twist barrel, close bolt, then rest the chassis against my knee and pull the tip of the barrel lightly towards my knee as I torque it down. In my very unscientific testing consistent pressure made a difference in repeatability for me. Light vs hard pressure didn't seem to matter as much as using a consistent pressure each time.

Just to be sure, the barrel lock on the opposite side of the chassis from the 4 torque bolts is fully unlocked?

If scope is loose you'll see scratch marks on the tube from it sliding during recoil before you'll be able to spin it. It's quick, easy and free to remove the scope to re-torque. Doesn't hurt to make sure the mount is pushed all the way forward against the picatinny rail and re-torque that as well.

 

[Juggerxxx]

I’m literally at whit’s end. When I switch barrels, I lose zero. Usually about 1-1.5” shift in any direction, but can be over 2” on my ES Tactical. My SAC .223 is more consistent but it does shift a bit.

I am using the cheap ass torque T that came with the rifle. Is that the likely offender?

Anyone have a cool trick that settled your switch problems down you can share? I’m sick of having to zero my rifle every time I switch a barrel.

Thanks

ok do this the next time you go out to the range.
shoot a 3-5 shot group with the ES tactical barrel.
Remove the barrel and shoot one shot at a new target. Remove the barrel and shoot another shot at the same target. Continue to remove the barrel and shoot one shot at the same target each time until you have a new 3-5 shot group. See if the group had a point of impact shift and if the group opened up. If it doesn’t then I would say you are performing the barrel installation consistent and the equipment is consistent but the day, temperature or load or something else are messing with you.

 

[cpekz]

Anyone know of a long range in or around North Carolina? Looking for at least 1000y.

Thanks!

From Charlotte, your best bet would probably be Clinton House like Keens said. There’s a few long ranges around the Columbia, SC area, but most of the ones I’m aware of/are open to public are sub 1000yd (600-800).

In Warrenton, NC there’s Frontline Defense. The 1000yd ranges are only open to members though, and there’s a qualification process you have go through AFAIK.

Unless you know someone with/have access to a private range you’re looking to drive ~2.5-4 hours to get to a 1000+yd range from the Charlotte area. I’d love to be wrong here.


Pic of the current setup

 

[Baer45]

Whats the barrel chambered for?

308 Win

 

[M77]

which t handle wrench are you using?
i've been using the Seekonk 70" pound as originally used by DT for the last 5+ years with many many swaps and predictable swaps every time .
should measure your barrel Shank and make sure its 1.250 the whole way , because if its smaller then theres the issue

 

[panhndl]

which t handle wrench are you using?
i've been using the Seekonk 70" pound as originally used by DT for the last 5+ years with many many swaps and predictable swaps every time .
should measure your barrel Shank and make sure its 1.250 the whole way , because if its smaller then theres the issue

My rifle came with a T torque from the factory. It is inexpensive and Eric said it was not the Seektonic one

 

[GMZ]

So many caliber rabbit holes to fall into with this SRS.

My plan was to get a 6.5 SAUM barrel but I’ve honestly been a little disappointed with the speeds I was getting in mine w/24” barrel even with a can. I love how the SRS balances with a 22.5” barrel and want to stay with that length so it would probably be even lower than I am now.

I have a few jugs of H1000 and a few bricks of CCI250’s and started thinking if I’m using 60 some grains to push a 156 to 2900 why not step up to a 300 and use 70 some grains to push a 215 Hybrid instead?

Then I clicked on the 300 PRC thread...

So how you guys liking your 300 PRCs?

 

[ChadL]

So how you guys liking your 300 PRCs?

I’m really liking the 300 prc. I’m still developing a load. I had Eric, ES Tactical, make my barrel 30” long. Trying to find the right powder to make use of the length. Seems to be an efficient case design.

 

[Fishkat]

So many caliber rabbit holes to fall into with this SRS.

My plan was to get a 6.5 SAUM barrel but I’ve honestly been a little disappointed with the speeds I was getting in mine w/24” barrel even with a can. I love how the SRS balances with a 22.5” barrel and want to stay with that length so it would probably be even lower than I am now.

I have a few jugs of H1000 and a few bricks of CCI250’s and started thinking if I’m using 60 some grains to push a 156 to 2900 why not step up to a 300 and use 70 some grains to push a 215 Hybrid instead?

Then I clicked on the 300 PRC thread...

So how you guys liking your 300 PRCs?

I’m hoping to like the 22.5” 300PRC barrel Eric is spinning up and should have it in a few weeks. I’m thinking RL 26 should push the 210vld or 215 hybrid into the 2850 - 2900 fps range pretty easily. In my 300WM 26” barrel RL 26 moved 210vld’s 2950 - 2975 fps. The 300WM is fun to shoot and very accurate and I expect the 300PRC to be no different. The DT‘s weight tames the recoil and a can just makes it a pleasure to shoot. Anyway, once I get the PRC barrel I’ll report the results using a few different powders and bullets.

 

[canezach]

I went in a slightly different direction. I asked Eric if he could order a 25 PRC reamer so I could use the Blackjack 131s. I should be able to push them into the 3200-3250 fps range.

 

[ChadL]

I went in a slightly different direction. I asked Eric if he could order a 25 PRC reamer so I could use the Blackjack 131s. I should be able to push them into the 3200-3250 fps range.

I’ve got a 25 creedmoor barrel from him and it’s awesome. 25 prc sounds like an killer round too.

 

[canezach]

I’ve got a 25 creedmoor barrel from him and it’s awesome. 25 prc sounds like an killer round too.

I ordered my 25 Creedmoor barrel from him about a year ago and it's a shooter! I was debating 25 SAUM or 25 PRC, but went with the PRC. Now the wait for my barrel to arrive

 

[GMZ]

I’m really liking the 300 prc. I’m still developing a load. I had Eric, ES Tactical, make my barrel 30” long. Trying to find the right powder to make use of the length. Seems to be an efficient case design.

I’m hoping to like the 22.5” 300PRC barrel Eric is spinning up and should have it in a few weeks. I’m thinking RL 26 should push the 210vld or 215 hybrid into the 2850 - 2900 fps range pretty easily. In my 300WM 26” barrel RL 26 moved 210vld’s 2950 - 2975 fps. The 300WM is fun to shoot and very accurate and I expect the 300PRC to be no different. The DT‘s weight tames the recoil and a can just makes it a pleasure to shoot. Anyway, once I get the PRC barrel I’ll report the results using a few different powders and bullets.

Thanks guys for the feedback. Did you guys go with the cut or button rifled? Conceptually 2850 with a 215 VLD is where I’d like to end up for elk and a 1 mile steel banger. $35/box Hornady ammo sure sounds nice too.

My rig is at 16.6 lbs all up with 22.5” 6.5CM bbl and id like to trim 1 lb going to the 300 to be ID legal so I’m looking at doing barrel/shank flutes and dropping the monopod. Need to discuss the technical details with a smith to see how much aggressive fluting will take off.

 

[ChadL]

My barrel is a cut rifle.

 

[Fishkat]

My barrel is a cut rifle.

Ditto, cut rifle.

 

[canezach]

I posted in the PX, but I figured I should probably post here as well:

Does anyone have a LA magazine or two they're looking to sell? I'm looking for a 5 round mag, but I wouldn't turn down an 8 rounder for the right price

 

[GMZ]

Breaking in this 6.5CM barrel I got from DMR. Loaded up random charge of 43 gr H4350 under a 130 AR HYB for break in and groups were nickel and dime size. Would like more speed but thinking to just roll with 43 gr. Only 100 rds through should pick up some speed soon.

 

[Fishkat]

Breaking in this 6.5CM barrel I got from DMR. Loaded up random charge of 43 gr H4350 under a 130 AR HYB for break in and groups were nickel and dime size. Would like more speed but thinking to just roll with 43 gr. Only 100 rds through should pick up some speed soon.

With a 22” barrel I’m guessing you will pick up a little more speed. I also have a 22“ barrel but are shooting 140 vld’s and using RL-16 and getting about 2,750 fps. RL-16 would most likely put you over 2,800 if you want more speed, I’ve shot a few 130’s and was at about 2825.

 

[Adam B]

Quick question for you guys. I ordered a A2 chassis and they are taking forever, it just got pushed back 2 more weeks last week. They told me the earthquake impacted them. Anyone else experiencing this?

2 weeks later and still nothing, I am just about to cancel my order.

 

[Adam B]

I could care less when I got it but they charged me in full before it even shipped and that is just BS! I can see charging a deposit but the full amount before anything ships is ridiculous.

 

[DoctorBen]

I could care less when I got it but they charged me in full before it even shipped and that is just BS! I can see charging a deposit but the full amount before anything ships is ridiculous.

Mine took forever. I finally cancelled and ordered through Special purpose rifles.

I'm *still* waiting for a refund from DT as well...

 

[Adam B]

Mine took forever. I finally cancelled and ordered through Special purpose rifles.

I'm *still* waiting for a refund from DT as well...

I plan on canceling today and if they dont refund me I will just do a chargeback. What a piss poor way to run a business.

 

[Bradu]

I plan on canceling today and if they dont refund me I will just do a chargeback. What a piss poor way to run a business.

Trying to call and order parts hasn't been any better of experience. I like the rifles but would never have bought them knowing what I know now.

 

[brutus895]

I plan on canceling today and if they dont refund me I will just do a chargeback. What a piss poor way to run a business.

I had to do a charge back to get my money back from them. I love their product, but won't purchase directly from them again.

 

[BuLLet]

Is the change of ownership causing this? Maybe things will get better as the new owners rework the logistics of running the business.

 

[Adam B]

I bought everything I needed from Special Purpose Rifles and couldn't be happy with the process. I also told me rep at DTA that I wanted to cancel, we will see if I have to do a chargeback or not

 

[Keens]

I ordered from EuroOptics as I’ve done a lot of business with them over the years. Thankfully they only need a deposit and keep me updated if an ETA becomes available. They said they have no clue when it will come in.

Wondering if not snagging that steal of an A1 was a mistake...