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Anyone want to part with the tool to change hand guards or have a source to get one
This one has a custom set up and does not attach to the scope . You can see the la rue qd mount in front of the scope.But is a simrad really a clip on lol.
Midwest has them in stock
Desert Tech SRS Forearm Coupler Tool .500"
Check out the deal on Desert Tech SRS Forearm Coupler Tool .500" at MGWwww.midwestgunworks.com
Interesting! I didn't look close enough.This one has a custom set up and does not attach to the scope . You can see the la rue qd mount in front of the scope.
It’s a custom bipod made by Lloyd Desantis at RND Precision. I’m not sure about the weight - it was part of a thread where we were all trying to figure out how to cut down SRS weight and I suspect it reads something close to 11lbs.@Dogtown What bipod are you using there and what is the weight on the scale? I can't get the picture to clear up on my computer
You can use the spuhr rail. I believe it would be a more stable option than scopes.One thing to remember with the covert- you can never run a cnvd if you like to play at night.
I agree wirh all of this. My barrels are from SAC and one from ES Tactical but I’ve seen the factory barrels shoot and they’re awesomeThe factory barrels used to be Lothar-Walther, but I think are Krieger now. They are definitely good to go if they are available with the specs you want. There's no requirement to go custom unless you want something they don't offer. 1:8 twist is sufficient for heavy 6.5mm bullets.
I have a few A1 6.5 creed barrels if you wanted to save some money.
Factory barrels have been track drivers for me. I have that same barrel and love itAnyone running the OEM 26" Desert Tech 6.5 A2 fluted barrel ? Running some numbers here, I'll take me awhile to get a custom barrel and I'm thinking of just buying the OEM conversion kit. It's about 200$ more but I get an extra mag and spare bolt. Is 1:8 still sufficient with all the newer 150+ grs out there ? Anyone knows where DTA gets their blanks from ?
Do you shoot factory ammo handloads ? How forgiving are they ? Does it prefer to be loaded deep or are they jump tolerant?Factory barrels have been track drivers for me. I have that same barrel and love it
I reload all my own, but with factory 6.5 Creedmoor ammo from Hornady I was getting well below a sub MOA, with reloads about .5MOA. Bullets are 140 VLD that are .030 off the landsDo you shoot factory ammo handloads ? How forgiving are they ? Does it prefer to be loaded deep or are they jump tolerant?
You should try Gary at BighornI live in Canada and the import/export is getting worst. That’s one of the reason why it’s almost cheaper to just get a conv kit than get a custom blank (that needs to match DTA’s shank specs) to a smith plus the cost of barrel extension (which you’d also have to import) plus the cerakote plus chambering and threading ... if the oem barrel is as high quality, it’s tempting just to buy the kit, use the spare bolt for parts (importing DTA parts is the worst thing, they are terrible even with an exporter handling it) and just toss a insite muzzle brake and start shooting rather than wait 6-12 months for everything to line up.
Sure if I live stateside I’d go with SAC, ES or many of the top guys.
That is incorrect, they are still Lothar blanks.The factory barrels used to be Lothar-Walther, but I think are Krieger now. They are definitely good to go if they are available with the specs you want. There's no requirement to go custom unless you want something they don't offer. 1:8 twist is sufficient for heavy 6.5mm bullets.
I’ve been handloading 147s with RL26 and Lapua brass for almost the whole time I’ve shot my 6.5 CM factory barrel. Such a good setup that I grabbed a spare barrel off the PX here just to have when I finally burn this one out. Loaded long (2.89”) but works easily with the regular mag.Do you shoot factory ammo handloads ? How forgiving are they ? Does it prefer to be loaded deep or are they jump tolerant?
I bought a srs a2 covert and two conversions from sac and imported them with profit river and it was no problemI live in Canada and the import/export is getting worst. That’s one of the reason why it’s almost cheaper to just get a conv kit than get a custom blank (that needs to match DTA’s shank specs) to a smith plus the cost of barrel extension (which you’d also have to import) plus the cerakote plus chambering and threading ... if the oem barrel is as high quality, it’s tempting just to buy the kit, use the spare bolt for parts (importing DTA parts is the worst thing, they are terrible even with an exporter handling it) and just toss a insite muzzle brake and start shooting rather than wait 6-12 months for everything to line up.
Sure if I live stateside I’d go with SAC, ES or many of the top guys.
That’s what I plan to do. Although Sierra 150 seems easier to find than ELD 147. What kind of velocity do you get ? Are you able to keep it 0.5 moa at high velocities? Seems like RL26 give you an extra 100fps but slightly less accurate than h4350.I’ve been handloading 147s with RL26 and Lapua brass for almost the whole time I’ve shot my 6.5 CM factory barrel. Such a good setup that I grabbed a spare barrel off the PX here just to have when I finally burn this one out. Loaded long (2.89”) but works easily with the regular mag.
I caught a node at 2907 and hung with it. Faster one at 2990, but was worried about it getting hot on me (tested both at 80 degrees.) 46.9g of RL26 is my number for 2907. Work up blah blah blah.That’s what I plan to do. Although Sierra 150 seems easier to find than ELD 147. What kind of velocity do you get ? Are you able to keep it 0.5 moa at high velocities? Seems like RL26 give you an extra 100fps but slightly less accurate than h4350.
Sounds like an out-of-spec extension. Does the barrel tenon measure the same or is it a little smaller than the extension?
Ok, I started measuring barrels & was getting measurements that were varying from 0.588 to 0.595. Upon closer inspection, the alignment notch has big radius’s at the bottom & appears to have a little taper also. When I install my barrels, I always turn them clockwise, same direction as the bolt rotates when closing. Then I close the bolt. Then I torque from the rear to the front. I can slip a piece of paper between the boss the notch locates on & the notch. The paper measures 0.004”. Lastly, it is really easy to see the notch over the boss when the barrel is installed. So, having said all that, my measurements won’t help you. Have you compared what it looks like with your barrels installed?
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You're right.Take the feed ramp off and take pics. Then the receiver isn't in the way.
So changing topics....not trying be a d-bag or anything because I know some of you have had a good experience with ES-Tactical, but after 7 months I ended up going through Paypal and getting my money back on a .308 barrel I ordered back in August.
I was running out of time on the PayPal timer as to when I could initiate a request back for money so I did it. I'm thankful to the guys here that posted they were still waiting 12 and 14 months from him for their barrels as it helped make my decision and save me $1k plus the coming months of frustration dealing with Eric at ES. And yes, I did give him the opportunity to reply multiple times. At first he replied with the "..I got busy with other stuff, let me check.." (and I never heard back), then I reached out again, "...opps, let me check I must have missed it cause I'm all caught up..." (and never heard back from again), to finally ignoring my emails and phone calls altogether. Even if he would have kept me in the loop of a status I would have felt better, but I heard nothing. (And yes, I saved all communication after the first sketchy response just in case I would have to go the paypal-refund route after his first reply that didn't sound quite truthful, but I'm not going to beat the forum posting dead-horse with them just to showcase my issues ad-infinitum).
Just hoping to save someone else the future frustration on a DTA barrel purchase.
DMR is solid.Does anyone have reviews of the DTA barrels from DMR Rifles out of Vegas? Lead times and communication efficiency?
What he said. You can always bump up slightly, but I’ve had a slightly shorter set than 1.5” and I had to cram my face down to get a sight picture.Get at least 1.5" rings and you'll be fine.
Get at least 1.5" rings and you'll be fine.
Good catch. That makes me much more certain it’ll work.Look at what their measurements are. They arent measuring to the centerline of the mount. The .89 is actually 1.575"
25mm mount height + 15mm (half 30mm tube) = 45mm (1.575")