I carry mine barrel up in a Kifaru Navigator with a modified gun bearer
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Been doing some testing on his HTI sleds. Both sleds work well for the 375ct, the flat top works better for the larger rounds 416B and 50cal.Kirt McKenna over on Facebook under desert tech rifle shooters has a pretty cool mag sled that he's come up with. He has a couple different sizes. Standard and HTI. The HTI fits awesome in my rifle, it fits 375ct all the way up to 50bmg same sled. I just thought I'd help the guy get his product in the hands of shooters. Awesome guy to deal with.
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Hope this helps someone out.
Xdeano
The ergonomics give you a bunch more room for your hand/ wrist behind the grip. They lock in very nice and have no wiggle. It's a really good fit. Hope this helps someone.
Xdeano
Yes it is.. You'll need a good vise to get it off. I ended up bending my old brake removing it
Use a torch on it first to loosen the thread locker. I've had to do that with every factory SRS barrel that I've removed the brake on.
That's most likely to be a second gen bolt, the kind that was made starting in 2010. The main difference between the first gen bolt is it has the round knob and should have a pin at the base of the bolt head that allows for swapping bolt faces. The first gen bolts were one-piece bolt head/handle construction.
It should be totally fine in an A2.
It should be totally fine in an A2.
Anyone know where the hell to find a RRS SRS-A1 chassis plate? See they’re not made anymore and out of stock everywhere. Called RRS today and they said they have no plans of making them again
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Yeah was thinking of just getting the sawtooth one and cutting it down some in length just for tripod use, but not going all the back to the trigger guard sucks since that’s where the CG is.
Yeah that would work too, really trying to hold out though and snag a RRS one so I can get closer to the trigger guard
That's actually the first generation bolt. Gen 1 bolts have the "243/308" written on the bolt knob shank. Second gen bolts have the pin visible behind the lugs.
Not sure all gen I bolt are compatible. I know the barrel index differently but it does seems like the bolt might be compatible.
I know the Gen 2 are.
I have a gen II bolt and a Gen II 308 kit, a 223 conv kit and a A2 6.5 conversion kit.
The only issue would be if you were to use an older Gen II bolt with the 223 conv kit, the bolt head channel isn't flush wouldn't allow you to put the 223 bolt head in, you'd have to grind off the excess. On the newer A1 and A2 bolt, everything is flush inside the bolt channel. Long story short, don't worry about it unless you'd plan to use it for a 223 conv.
In my case, I use the newer A2 bolt body with the 223 bolt head and barrel. And my older Gen II bolt, with my old gen 2 308 barrel and my newer A2 6.5 CM barrel. Works like a charm. Except then DTA fucked up my extension but that's been resolved (and not by DTA).
Make sense ?
If you are Canadian and can afford it, you should highly look into a Krieger heavy varmint from insite arms.
Yes in my opinion. Although some have had good IBI barrels, I wouldn’t put them on the same level as Bartlein, Proof or Krieger.
But those might run you a few extra $
Ive got to admit I've been eyeing a Proof carbon barrel....
I've got a gen 1 SRS I bought in 2010 and I've run bolts made all the way up to last year. I'm pretty sure they're all compatible with all the rifles. I've yet to see one that doesn't lock up properly and headspace right. After making a lot of barrels over the years I've fitted a lot of gen 1 and 2 extensions and checked headspace with various bolts. I've always found that headspace is consistent regardless of the mix.....to be sure check with DT if you can get someone to talk to you about it.
Frank
Frank
So who else is planning on a 375 SwissP for their SRS ? I've got a spare barrel extension and wanting to save it for something. The 375 Swiss p should cater for everything without getting into the HTI platform, which then becomes too heavy to lug around in hills
After many years of shooting big bore rifles, I was excited when the HTI came out. Around the same time I started shooting a 36” .338 LM Improved 40 and over time came to realize I probably didn’t need an HTI to get out to 2400m. I still have all of the gear to make .408/.375 Cheytac ammo, yet every time I think about finally getting around to an HTI, I balk. And now I’m shooting .300NM more than any of my .338 barrels, and there are long .375 options available like .375 SwissP and .37XC. The window of things you can’t do with an SRS has been really shrinking lately.
As much as I think the magazines are the weakest link in the SRS system, this morning I really appreciated being able to magazine feed such a long 3.910” COAL.
Magazines are really the only thing that I wish could be changed. I do love the extra length available for seating the bullets long, but I do wish there was a way to make it a double stack so the mags wouldn't be so tall
Agreed, though I remember Nick saying back at the start that he designed the magazines single stack so it would capture the shoulder, preventing the cartridges to moving too far forward during recoil. Historically, making a successful proprietary magazine for a new firearm has often required orders of magnitude more effort than originally expected.
Quick question - how did you manage to get the arca rail all the way to the trigger guard? Been looking at the RRS but it seems they've already discontinued the BSRS
Thinking about getting a long action barrel from ES Tactical. Was leaning toward 300 PRC. Is there a better option? If I go .300 PRC what barrel twist should I get. Was thinking 26 in barrel in his tapered profile with flutes.
I have a proof barrel in 300 PRC from SAC. I bought a couple thousand rounds when it first came out and Hornady was offering extremely competitive pricing. I’ve found the factory ammo to be hit or miss. Have you considered 300 Norma. The factory Hornady and Federal loads have been excellent in my Bartlein barrels.
For twist I’d do 8 for either one. Hope that helps. Just my experience on a couple barrels.
What is the purpose of this caliber? Are you just wanting to ring steel?
In all honesty the best part of these rifles is the Lapua bolt face, so in my opinion going with 300prc is kinda a waste. 300nm, 338nm or lm, 33xc-42xc. Are all great options. 6.5 prc is interesting, but again what is your intended use....
In all honesty the best part of these rifles is the Lapua bolt face, so in my opinion going with 300prc is kinda a waste. 300nm, 338nm or lm, 33xc-42xc. Are all great options. 6.5 prc is interesting, but again what is your intended use....
It will weigh a lot with a straight barrel that thick. I ordered one for fun , chambered in a 6.5 SAUM it was a solid steel rod basically
I have an SRS in 300 PRC, I run a .338 Norma so I figured I try something different and went 300 PRC. I like it, but a 300 Norma would be sweet.
There are so many good magnum-class bullets available these days that it makes sense to go with a .30 cal magnum. I think the main advantage of .300PRC is that it can be used in a standard long action and doesn't require the Lapua bolt face. But with the SRS that's kind of a moot point.
I shoot a 22" .338 Norma AI version. Not much recoil. The barrel being that thick is a heavy rifle to lug around. I take mine everywhere so weight matters sometimes... I guess you'll have a nice iron rod if you ever needed one
Which brake for the 16" 308? The muzzle is pretty close to your face with the short barrel so the brakes that redirect blast backwards are a no-go. Looking to minimize muzzle rise more than pure recoil reduction, and don't want the concussive blast associated with the high recoil reduction brakes.
