Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Which brake for the 16" 308? The muzzle is pretty close to your face with the short barrel so the brakes that redirect blast backwards are a no-go. Looking to minimize muzzle rise more than pure recoil reduction, and don't want the concussive blast associated with the high recoil reduction brakes.
UM Tactical will do that as well
 
A dominus sr will do everything you want.
Unfortunately the only suppressors around here are owned by movie assassins and the rich/politically connected.

UM Tactical will do that as well
Looks like an interesting "DIY" brake, but seems like it belongs on an AR more than a bolt action precision rifle? Not that it couldn't work but there are no rapid followup shots.
 
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Unfortunately the only suppressors around here are owned by movie assassins and the rich/politically connected.


Looks like an interesting "DIY" brake, but seems like it belongs on an AR more than a bolt action precision rifle? Not that it couldn't work but there are no rapid followup shots.

You can custom tune the break to your built gun. I run one on a .308 works great if you need to direct gas a certain direction
 
I've just run the simple single port DTA brake on my 16" barrel for years. It's not super efficient like Fat Bastard and Hellfire brakes, but it works well enough and doesn't blast you in the face. I think I've got a spare one laying around if you need one.
 
Went to the range and was reminded of an issue I've had a few times running the SRS. Sometimes when I run the bolt, the brass ejects, hits my hand, and bounces back into the action. Not a big deal to clear but has cost me a few seconds more than once in competition. Are any of y'all having this issue and if so how do you keep it from happening?
 
I learned long ago that you just need to run the bolt aggressively with the SRS.

Edit: That at least solved my ejecting & feeding problems. For all I know, you may have enormous brass-blocking hands, in which case you might need to do some surgery to fix that particular problem.
 
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Went to the range and was reminded of an issue I've had a few times running the SRS. Sometimes when I run the bolt, the brass ejects, hits my hand, and bounces back into the action. Not a big deal to clear but has cost me a few seconds more than once in competition. Are any of y'all having this issue and if so how do you keep it from happening?
I have soft women's hands so I don't have that problem. Run it like a man
 
Acknowledged. I'll go back out on Friday and take video of me running it as hard as I can and see if I can replicate the issue. This is with 300WM FYSA. Not sure if that is a contributing factor. I can't remember if I've had the issue with it using 6.5CM
 
Went to the range and was reminded of an issue I've had a few times running the SRS. Sometimes when I run the bolt, the brass ejects, hits my hand, and bounces back into the action. Not a big deal to clear but has cost me a few seconds more than once in competition. Are any of y'all having this issue and if so how do you keep it from happening?
Give it a try moving your whole forearm from the elbow not the just using your wrist. If I keep my elbow static and just bend my wrist to cycle the bolt I’ll bounce brass off my knuckles in to the port.

and run it hard 😁
 
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here's my 33xc srsA2 built with a custom bartlein 33" abd terminator t5 mb here in Europe runing berger 300gr hybrid at 3190fts. Using an ivey mount 200MOA and march 5-40x56 FFP. Holding a out 5-6inch of vertical at 1500m Full review
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For all you monopod users, how do you tame the rifle from the bench? This is my first monopod (usually go off bags) and the rifle was bouncing all over the place from the bench. I would lose sight picture after every shot. Tried it again with a bag and it was fine.

Any monopod usage tips?


BTW @mountainman308 (photo above), what do you with that after shooting it? Can you eat it?
 
For all you monopod users, how do you tame the rifle from the bench? This is my first monopod (usually go off bags) and the rifle was bouncing all over the place from the bench. I would lose sight picture after every shot. Tried it again with a bag and it was fine.

Any monopod usage tips?


BTW @mountainman308 (photo above), what do you with that after shooting it? Can you eat it?

I think you'll find there is a reason most don't shoot with a monopod.
 
You can eat them, most don’t/won’t.
They tear up fields, wood stacks and yards, and must be exterminated whenever possible. They usually get tossed where you won’t smell them but can shoot the coyotes that come to scavenge here.

I'm ashamed to admit that I spent 5 seconds trying to figure out how this applied to the subject of monopods.
 
Give it a try moving your whole forearm from the elbow not the just using your wrist. If I keep my elbow static and just bend my wrist to cycle the bolt I’ll bounce brass off my knuckles in to the port.

and run it hard 😁
This is what I think is my problem causing brass to be knocked back in the port.
 
For all you monopod users, how do you tame the rifle from the bench? This is my first monopod (usually go off bags) and the rifle was bouncing all over the place from the bench. I would lose sight picture after every shot. Tried it again with a bag and it was fine.

Any monopod usage tips?


BTW @mountainman308 (photo above), what do you with that after shooting it? Can you eat it?
If I use the monopod, I still put a bag under it to help with stability. I only use the monopod if the bag isn't tall enough to support the rifle.
 
I pulled my monopod out. Haven’t found a situation where a rear bag isn’t better. A rear bag with git lite is almost the same weight

@jamieschulz i think I’m the case of the chassis by themselves, you lose a pound by going to the A2. @pinhead has a breakdown of DT SRS component weights
 
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All the 16" 308 SRS A2 coverts are supposed to have a 3/4"-24 thread per DT and the FAQ on their website. Mine has a 5/8"-24 thread. I'm also seeing there are 1:8 and 1:10 twist versions. Did DT change this at some point, and how do I figure out what I have? Very frustrating, I just bought the wrong size brake in 3/4" that is actually larger diameter than my entire barrel!

  • What is the muzzle thread pitch used for each caliber?
    3/4x24 for all SRS calibers
  • Why doesn't the SRS 308 win have the standard 5/8x24 thread pitch?
    We threaded all the calibers ¾x24 for two reasons, number one the larger thread creates a stiffer barrel enhancing accuracy, number two is the 3/4x24 pitch enables one to use .338 caliber silencers on all four caliber barrels, it is very effective and saves money. The ¾x24 thread pattern is large enough that customers can easily have their own gunsmith rethread their barrels down to 5/8x24 if they wish. We do not do custom threads but you can get a 3/4x24 to 5/8x24 thread adapter from Delta P Design
 
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Finally got around to shooting and rezeroing with the new m2 chassis. I had to trim a little off the rail where it extends past the hand guard to fit the 22” 308 barrel and 338ultra. I may still just cut it off flush. It seems pretty pointless.

Has anyone noticed cratering with the newer bolts? Pretty mild load
44gr Varget, 175 Rdf, win brass and br-2 primers. I need to take a pic when I get back home but it’s noticeable vs my gen 2 bolt. Reminds me of a factory Remington 700.
 
All the 16" 308 SRS A2 coverts are supposed to have a 3/4"-24 thread per DT and the FAQ on their website. Mine has a 5/8"-24 thread. I'm also seeing there are 1:8 and 1:10 twist versions. Did DT change this at some point, and how do I figure out what I have? Very frustrating, I just bought the wrong size brake in 3/4" that is actually larger diameter than my entire barrel!

  • What is the muzzle thread pitch used for each caliber?
    3/4x24 for all SRS calibers
  • Why doesn't the SRS 308 win have the standard 5/8x24 thread pitch?
    We threaded all the calibers ¾x24 for two reasons, number one the larger thread creates a stiffer barrel enhancing accuracy, number two is the 3/4x24 pitch enables one to use .338 caliber silencers on all four caliber barrels, it is very effective and saves money. The ¾x24 thread pattern is large enough that customers can easily have their own gunsmith rethread their barrels down to 5/8x24 if they wish. We do not do custom threads but you can get a 3/4x24 to 5/8x24 thread adapter from Delta P Design
They went to 5/8x24 and lighter contours with the a2 models. The 16” 308 should be a 1/8 to let you stabilize subsonics too.
 
I'm seriously considering it.

I have gotten SO much use out of my first Gen SRS and have so many barrels for it, but the pin-based barrel extensions are getting really hard to get and as a system they are fairly delicate (I've had to replace mine 4 times over the last 12 years). So I've been thinking about getting a newer chassis to complement this one once things calm down and I find a local FFL that's worthy of giving money to.
 
I've also considered it. I've been having so much fun this year with my A2 but its sort of been living in between being a comp gun and being a field gun. I kind of want to go all in ultralight compact field gun with my A2 that I have now and then go all in with an M2 to setup for competition but I haven't the money for it atm. That said, if it was either or between an A2 or M2, I don't see a reason to go with M2 over the A2 or to "upgrade" from A2 to M2
 
Why do you need gen 2 bolts? Any of them will work with either barrel extension.

Doggie, You've popped 4 pins? I still haven't broken any. Original tiny roll pin from a 2010 rifle used for demos of the barrel change system and a variety of shoots. I have run a few of the gen 2 extensions and test customer gen 2 barrels in my gen 1. You have to line up the bolt and barrel before locking down the screws though. Its not an instant line up like the pin or the gen 2 rifle. This means barrel changes take 45 seconds instead of 30.

Frank
 
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Yep Frank, I learned over time the first few years with it to first close the bolt before tightening down the bolts. That was one issue resolved. The other was during my New Zealand years with it; I really beat it to hell up and down mountains and in the bush. After one trip I got back and did a local comp and found that I was hitting 8 mils to the left at 300m. A careful look at the barrel and it appeared to be slightly canted. Confirmed with other barrels and a set of calipers and super-duper confirmed with gunsmith. Replaced pin for 4th time and back to normal.

It's not a great system but it works. It's just not robust and now every time I travel for some ELR shooting, I pack it gently in a hard foam-fitted case because I'm paranoid about bending the damned pin again.
 
Yep Frank, I learned over time the first few years with it to first close the bolt before tightening down the bolts. That was one issue resolved. The other was during my New Zealand years with it; I really beat it to hell up and down mountains and in the bush. After one trip I got back and did a local comp and found that I was hitting 8 mils to the left at 300m. A careful look at the barrel and it appeared to be slightly canted. Confirmed with other barrels and a set of calipers and super-duper confirmed with gunsmith. Replaced pin for 4th time and back to normal.

It's not a great system but it works. It's just not robust and now every time I travel for some ELR shooting, I pack it gently in a hard foam-fitted case because I'm paranoid about bending the damned pin again.
Yep, got you there. The gen 2 system is so much more solid and repeatable. Had to start somewhere though. I don't really haul my rifle anywhere but from the car to the bench normally so I don't get the same wear and tear you do. I never really thought about bending the pin either. Roll pins are usually pretty brittle and the tiny ones just break most of the time. Have to pay closer attention now...

Frank