Spent my day off gathering data on a new load. I think I’ve got it where I want it. 130 ELDM, 37.5 gns Varget, Lapua brass, BR 2 primers. Grouped well under 1 MOA but forgot to get pictures of the group.
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I've not met any PH's that'll even allow a shot that's over 500m and there's really zero need to pull long shots in Africa. Plenty of game and easy enough to do a stalk to within reasonable distance. .338LM is way too much gun for much under the size of an eland and it's kinda big for an eland. SMK's... I have a decent amount of experience with SMK's in South Africa against plains game from impala up to wildebeest size and I would seriously not go there. Every time it has required a follow up shot and once I lost the animal. A good bonded or A-frame bullet is where I'd put my money. For all the hassle, I'd just use the PH's rifle. It'll have a suppressor in all probability and it'll be in a suitable chambering and you don't have to deal with any of the paperwork hassles.So, just signed on to a long range safari in South Africa with John X Safarisin 2023.
Have my 338LM and plenty of practice at distance, out to a mile with good DOPE in variable conditions.
Took a public land 330” Bull Elk at 725yds this past October.
Question is Bullet Selection.
I’m going for plains game.
I have boatloads of prime ammunition 300gr SMK.
Thoughts on SMK for plains game. Practical thoughts. I know everyone likes to drag target rounds, but it sure seemed to drop that elk like a rock. Didn’t walk a single step. Just stoned him.
I’m thinking Eland and smaller. No dangerous game, not giraffe (probably).
How much effort would you put into trying to procure or work up loads. Can’t find primers for a damn so I’d be left to start fresh by pulling bullets, seating something else.
Lathe turned solids? See what ELD hunter stuff I can find over time? Or just go with my guy and drop 300gr doing 2740 to anything within 800yds cleanly?
Thanks!
That was my idea; I have my 6.5 creed and 338 LM setups. No set list of species. 8 days hunting. I’ll smoke whatever sentinel baboon I come across in trees. Any recco for a firearm import guy?
Just sold one of each. I think the A1s initially dropped when A2 came out. You could get a bare bones A1 for $1500-1700 for a hot minute. I do think that since then they came back up a bit. There still seems to be a premium on a used A2 vs A1, but as was mentioned here many like the A1 trigger. A2 had some good weight changes and that was a big value to me.Do you gents think that the SRS A1s have gone up or down in resale value since they are no longer available? Some seem to prefer the A1s over the A2s.
A1 is a solid rig! Lot of people like it for the trigger. I just sold mine because I own an A2 and don’t see myself using/can’t justify owning 2 like @deersniper aka Burt. I would say the A1 can be bought for more then what they could have when the A2 dropped like @65x55guy said. They were selling for dirt cheap when the A2 came outDo you gents think that the SRS A1s have gone up or down in resale value since they are no longer available? Some seem to prefer the A1s over the A2s.
Had same issue with another strap on mine and size Of butt on SRS.View attachment 7814478
Kind of a hunting-ish related question. Does anyone have a pack they like that fits the SRS well? The larger butt pad doesn’t fit in my standard rifle holder on my Mystery Ranch pack. So I am forced to pretty much strap it in as pictured. Not ideal by any means.
you caught me.Had same issue with another strap on mine and size Of butt on SRS.
I wouldn’t want a strap across my trigger. Especially with the safety off.
You know, I’ve had my MR Metcalf tightened down to the frame since I got it and hadn’t even thought about using the meat shelf. I’ll have to loosen straps and try that out today. Thanks for the reminder.@bmicek I'm not sure which MR pack you have but there is sort of a load area between the frame and bag (I think hunters use it for meat) that I found you can tuck the SRS down in nicely so its closer to your body. I'll post a picture when able
I have an Eberlestock pack with scabbard. It's been able to hold all of my bulky match rifles. I'll check it against my DT tonight.Kind of a hunting-ish related question. Does anyone have a pack they like that fits the SRS well? The larger butt pad doesn’t fit in my standard rifle holder on my Mystery Ranch pack. So I am forced to pretty much strap it in as pictured. Not ideal by any means.
I tried mounting it between the frame and bag of my Kuiu. Not a great solution. Ended up doing a patrol carry (barrel down and left) on my sling with my pack on over. Spot an elk, drop back and crawl.View attachment 7814478
Kind of a hunting-ish related question. Does anyone have a pack they like that fits the SRS well? The larger butt pad doesn’t fit in my standard rifle holder on my Mystery Ranch pack. So I am forced to pretty much strap it in as pictured. Not ideal by any means.
Thanks for saving me the effort! (not sarcasm... it's actually appreciated)Eberlestock will work with the DT
Well that sucks, I guess I'll be paying for whole barrel kits or $600 per extension thenI haven't heard of locally made barrel extensions, most likely will have to come from the US I'd imagine.
If you know the elevation and some historic or forecasted environmental info you can see for yourself:I am in need of some advice.
I have a competition in April that has targets out to 1K yards. Normally, I shoot 6.5 but ammo is getting low. I do have Hornady’s American Gunners 155 BTHP .308 and a 22” barrel.
The competition is in New Mexico so altitude is higher than I normally shoot at. Can I realistically expect the .308 to reach out to 1K yards?
Any advice is appreciated.
I did a quick DOPE calc for this, if the MV is 2700 as advertised then you'll go transonic right around 950-1075yrds (I estimated temperature and BP across a window of estimated likely values, thus the spread) so things could get squirrelly at the 1k target but probably won't. My personal bet is that the velocity will probably be closer to 2800fps or more which would make those 155's still fully supersonic (>1200fps) to 1000yrds even if it's relatively cold. The altitude definitely helps, gives 100-200yrds of additional supersonic range depending on the actual conditions. YMMV but I think you're ok with that ammo as far as reach.I am in need of some advice.
I have a competition in April that has targets out to 1K yards. Normally, I shoot 6.5 but ammo is getting low. I do have Hornady’s American Gunners 155 BTHP .308 and a 22” barrel.
The competition is in New Mexico so altitude is higher than I normally shoot at. Can I realistically expect the .308 to reach out to 1K yards?
Any advice is appreciated.
Have you taken the time to actually look at what’s going on while the round is stripped from the mag? Being single stack mags, everything with the srs feeding should be pretty symmetrical so idk where the leftward shift is coming from. Is it the same with every mag? What’s your oal?Anybody using 22 creedmoor in the SRS? I'm having terrible feeding issues using 53 vmax bullets. It wants to kick them up and left thus jamming the polymer tip into the end of the barrel shank. Is there a fix or is the geometry just wrong with short bullets?
maybe you are moving the bolt to slow and the rifle is tilted to the leftOAL is 2.54. It may only be happening with 1 mag. Need more data. I've labeled my mags. Here's what's happening.
A bit of video might help in the diagnosis. Looks like the round takes a distinctly nose up attitude. Reminds me of trying to feed an empty case in some of my rifles so bullet protrusion from the case may not be sufficient for reliable feeding.OAL is 2.54. It may only be happening with 1 mag. Need more data. I've labeled my mags. Here's what's happening.
y'all are brave out here drilling holes in and bending up 140 dollar magazines haha
Why not just superglue a thin piece of plastic instead?Here's my hillbilly $0 fix. Drill a hole in the back of the mag where the mag meets the rear of the magwell. Put a punch in the hole and pry to bend the metal out a little bit. This puts pressure on the lower back of the mag and tilts the front of the mag up slightly. All you need is a couple hundredths. If you go too far and the mag sticks tight just push the bump back down a little. Worked perfect in shop testing. Needs some hard field use to confirm.
Thought about that. This was way easier and won't come undone. Plus you can modify the amount of tension anytime you want.Why not just superglue a thin piece of plastic instead?
y'all are brave out here drilling holes in and bending up 140 dollar magazines haha
Wouldn't this damage the rifle / bolt / extractor if something is "stuck"? I feel like it's not the case itself that's stuck, because it was just fired and went in smoothly...1. Try mortaring it: bolt unlocked, lift rifle above ground (muzzle up), hand on bolt handle, force buttstock quickly into ground (force gets applied to handle). Hopefully momentum helps free the case. The rifle can take the abuse.
2. Carefully use a cleaning rod from the muzzle end to tap on the case. This is less than ideal and unlike the other method, you need to be gentle with this method in order not to damaged the crown of the muzzle.
Watch Okans srs brutalizing video. Pretty tough rifle, bolt, extractor.Wouldn't this damage the rifle / bolt / extractor if something is "stuck"? I feel like it's not the case itself that's stuck, because it was just fired and went in smoothly...
1. Try mortaring it: bolt unlocked, lift rifle above ground (muzzle up), hand on bolt handle, force buttstock quickly into ground (force gets applied to handle). Hopefully momentum helps free the case. The rifle can take the abuse.
2. Carefully use a cleaning rod from the muzzle end to tap on the case. This is less than ideal and unlike the other method, you need to be gentle with this method in order not to damaged the crown of the muzzle.
As long as the bolt is unlocked, any rearward motion on the handle or bolt face shouldn't damage the rifle. I've mortared mine a few times over the past 13ish years, and I've seen people do the cleaning rod trick with other files (.50BMG so keep that in mind).
They're just suggestions. You could also take it to a smith to resolve.
NOTE: the remaining strength of the case rim is probably the failure point for you.
Heads up the 6gt doesn't eject real well. Shoots great but a good ejector spring and quick bolt manipulation will be your best friendSo, I got a little carried away today, called my smith on the way to an estate sale of some gun stuff ( barrels brass powder bullets and scopes) talked with him about doing a 6gt barrel for the DT. He says well i have a 6mm barrel in HV sitting here and it will work. ill double check it and spin it up for you, stop by on your way back. (COOL no shipping or tax for getting a barrel). estate sale has some heavy barrel profiles, 1.30 breach for like 8 inches and grabbed 2, one 6mm 7.3tw and a 30 in 10tw. On the way home ordered a 7mm barrel for a 7 saum ive been holding out on for the DT for a while now. all in all, 4 barrels, a bolt, extension and mag ordered/bought today. cant wait to get some stuff for the 6gt and run it