Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

How are the triggers on these, say on a sliding scale, from TT Diamond/Jewell BR/Bix 'n Andy at the top, to Timney and Tikka in the middle, to Std Rem 700 on the lower end of decent single stage centerfire, to the mush of a Daisy Red Rider on the lowest end :unsure:

The ability to have a 32+" barrel without the overall length is definitely appealing, but I shoot comparatively poorly without the better triggers.
Depends on A1 or A2.
The A1 with some work gets down under 8oz with no overtravel. I'd put it right with my TT Diamond and B&A tac sport pro.
 
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How are the triggers on these, say on a sliding scale, from TT Diamond/Jewell BR/Bix 'n Andy at the top, to Timney and Tikka in the middle, to Std Rem 700 on the lower end of decent single stage centerfire, to the mush of a Daisy Red Rider on the lowest end :unsure:

The ability to have a 32+" barrel without the overall length is definitely appealing, but I shoot comparatively poorly without the better triggers.
No complaints with my SRSA2.
Single stage, minimal creep, minimal over travel.
Hasn’t ever stopped me from hitting things at absurd distances with boring consistency.
 
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Hi,
I have the ability to potentially have the Desert tech SRS-A2 forearms made. I could have them made in carbon fiber for extra weight savings. I also could have them made 2-4” longer to keep that same profile the srs has with a 22” barrel. And for just simply a longer forarm for various reasons. How many people would be interested? I will look to keep the price the same as an OEM DT one maybe even cheaper if I can. But I can only do it if I have enough interest in it. I would need to move a few hundred of each.
What are some thoughts on that?
Interested!
 
Hi,
I have the ability to potentially have the Desert tech SRS-A2 forearms made. I could have them made in carbon fiber for extra weight savings. I also could have them made 2-4” longer to keep that same profile the srs has with a 22” barrel. And for just simply a longer forarm for various reasons. How many people would be interested? I will look to keep the price the same as an OEM DT one maybe even cheaper if I can. But I can only do it if I have enough interest in it. I would need to move a few hundred of each.
What are some thoughts on that?
I’d possibly be interested depending on weight savings compared to the standard Covert handguard. But, I’d be willing to bet even going carbon fiber the weight savings would be very little since it’s such a short handguard to begin with.
 
I wanted to try F class and saw how bag riders worked for them. I read an article on them so I decided to make one for my SRS. It cut group sizes in half and really works well, plus it is removable with one screw.
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It really does work well, I did make a tapped aluminum disc that I epoxied to one side skin inside the grip for the 1/4-20 screw. The monopod works over the whole range for both rapid and fine adjustments. My average groups went from .5 with a squeeze bag to .3 with this setup. The mags still change ok too.
 
How are the triggers on these, say on a sliding scale, from TT Diamond/Jewell BR/Bix 'n Andy at the top, to Timney and Tikka in the middle, to Std Rem 700 on the lower end of decent single stage centerfire, to the mush of a Daisy Red Rider on the lowest end :unsure:

The ability to have a 32+" barrel without the overall length is definitely appealing, but I shoot comparatively poorly without the better triggers.
Its still a bullpup, so much closer to a factory 700 than a TT.
 
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I just pulled out my A1, a TT adaptable, a factory T3, a ‘65 model 70, and a red rider.

Now I bought my A1 used and haven’t fiddled with the trigger, so I don’t know what has been done to it. But the creep is maybe a little longer than I’d like, The break is clean and crisp, and if I had a complaint it would be the over travel.

I’d put it closer to the TT than the T3, and head and shoulders above the rest. It feels like a Timney CE to me, same as my A2 did when I had it.

$0.02…
 
its not, based on experience.
It is. You are generalizing all bullpups based on your gun. My A1 does not have a bad trigger. No pre travel, clean consistent break, set at just under 7oz right now. Over travel is more than I'd like but it can be addressed rather easily. I can also adjust the trigger fore and aft to get a good 90⁰ placement. The platform has plenty of other shortcomings but the triggers isn't one of them.

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It is. You are generalizing all bullpups based on your gun. My A1 does not have a bad trigger. No pre travel, clean consistent break, set at just under 7oz right now. Over travel is more than I'd like but it can be addressed rather easily. I can also adjust the trigger fore and aft to get a good 90⁰ placement. The platform has plenty of other shortcomings but the triggers isn't one of them.

View attachment 7809866
Not true, im basing it on many examples ive owned and handled.
A light trigger doesnt prove anything. As im sure you know.
 
I just pulled out my A1, a TT adaptable, a factory T3, a ‘65 model 70, and a red rider.

Now I bought my A1 used and haven’t fiddled with the trigger, so I don’t know what has been done to it. But the creep is maybe a little longer than I’d like, The break is clean and crisp, and if I had a complaint it would be the over travel.

I’d put it closer to the TT than the T3, and head and shoulders above the rest. It feels like a Timney CE to me, same as my A2 did when I had it.

$0.02…
I have a fix for the lack of over travel adjustment. I drilled and tapped the back side of the trigger shoe for a # 6-32 flat head socket screw. The shoe comes off by loosening the screw in the side of it then sliding it off its dove tail. Here is a photo.
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The comma was absolutely correct.
I'm sure it was. I'm just poking at you as in the highest tradition of the hide.

I honestly wish that Jard or Timney would pop an aftermarket trigger for the SRS. The trigger on my M2 is really good but I'm sure that if a specialist designer of triggers were to be locked in a room and tempted with a bit of free beer and pizza that they could improve on it enough to justify a few hundred bucks of expenditure.
 
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Regardless, it sounds like worst case is stock 700 feel, which is fine for me. I'm trying out an AX chassis for the remainder of a RUM barrel, but will keep an eye out for an SRS in the PX.
 
Regardless, it sounds like worst case is stock 700 feel, which is fine for me. I'm trying out an AX chassis for the remainder of a RUM barrel, but will keep an eye out for an SRS in the PX.
I think it is better than 700 and close to the TT in my Christensen Arms. I picked an A1 up last year in the PX it is slow becoming my favorite rifle. Saving for a .300 PRC barrel from ES tactical.
 
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I'm sure it was. I'm just poking at you as in the highest tradition of the hide.

I honestly wish that Jard or Timney would pop an aftermarket trigger for the SRS. The trigger on my M2 is really good but I'm sure that if a specialist designer of triggers were to be locked in a room and tempted with a bit of free beer and pizza that they could improve on it enough to justify a few hundred bucks of expenditure.
Whats intersting is Timney has had a bullpup trigger for a few years in the Mk Machine chassis. Unless there's patent concerns, youd think that would alleviate a lot of the ground work needing to be done.
 
odd... you're the only guy I've ever seen even hint at the idea that the SRS trigger is less than excellent. I know you didn't say it was garbage, but your lack of enthusiasm seems to be the outlier in the bunch.
I have a lot of nice aftermarket triggers on other rifles, and I can't see anything to gain from an aftermarket on the SRS -- at least on the A1. I have not yet encountered the A2.
 
My M2 has more overtravel than I'd like and it would be nice to get a spring kit that would deliver a sub-1lbs break.

In other events, FedEx arrived with another package for me. The package might as well have been labelled, "You have too much discretionary income." These will join the other 7 I already have and I guess I'll be waiting an indeterminate amount of time for the final 3 to show up.
deserttechclips.jpg
 
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So, just signed on to a long range safari in South Africa with John X Safarisin 2023.

Have my 338LM and plenty of practice at distance, out to a mile with good DOPE in variable conditions.

Took a public land 330” Bull Elk at 725yds this past October.

Question is Bullet Selection.
I’m going for plains game.

I have boatloads of prime ammunition 300gr SMK.

Thoughts on SMK for plains game. Practical thoughts. I know everyone likes to drag target rounds, but it sure seemed to drop that elk like a rock. Didn’t walk a single step. Just stoned him.

I’m thinking Eland and smaller. No dangerous game, not giraffe (probably).

How much effort would you put into trying to procure or work up loads. Can’t find primers for a damn so I’d be left to start fresh by pulling bullets, seating something else.

Lathe turned solids? See what ELD hunter stuff I can find over time? Or just go with my guy and drop 300gr doing 2740 to anything within 800yds cleanly?
 
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I’m a little disappointed in the m2 trigger vs the one in my gen2. It has an annoying little bit of creep to it and there’s no way to adjust it out. It’s set just under 2lbs and won’t really go much lower without the adjustment screw coming completely out. If a fellow measured the factory one he could probably find a replacement that would give a lighter pull.
 
So, just signed on to a long range safari in South Africa with John X Safarisin 2023.

Have my 338LM and plenty of practice at distance, out to a mile with good DOPE in variable conditions.

Took a public land 330” Bull Elk at 725yds this past October.

Question is Bullet Selection.
I’m going for plains game.

I have boatloads of prime ammunition 300gr SMK.

Thoughts on SMK for plains game. Practical thoughts. I know everyone likes to drag target rounds, but it sure seemed to drop that elk like a rock. Didn’t walk a single step. Just stoned him.

I’m thinking Eland and smaller. No dangerous game, not giraffe (probably).

How much effort would you put into trying to procure or work up loads. Can’t find primers for a damn so I’d be left to start fresh by pulling bullets, seating something else.

Lathe turned solids? See what ELD hunter stuff I can find over time? Or just go with my guy and drop 300gr doing 2740 to anything within 800yds cleanly?
Your 300 grain loads should be fine, likely more accurate than something else that may not even be available. Badlands ICBM2's may be flatter shooting and faster, won't expand. I believe in shot placement being most the important factor. Based on the intended target / animal, and the velocity of the projectile used. As long as you know where to put it, send it.
Good luck, and have a lot of fun!
 
Your 300 grain loads should be fine, likely more accurate than something else that may not even be available. Badlands ICBM2's may be flatter shooting and faster, won't expand. I believe in shot placement being most the important factor. Based on the intended target / animal, and the velocity of the projectile used. As long as you know where to put it, send it.
Good luck, and have a lot of fun!
Will do; that was always my thought too. I feel confident on a 10” plate at 600 yards regardless of conditions, 100% of the time, tripod. Not going to overstate. Or understate.

Much farther in idealized conditions. I get about a 80% cold bore rate on the IPSC at a mile at TVP with TRASOL. But I want this to be a clean, clean shot.

That elk I dropped was perfect. Didn’t budge, just dropped. Guide said to take an anchor shot. And I did. 3” off the first. At 725.
 
Will do; that was always my thought too. I feel confident on a 10” plate at 600 yards regardless of conditions, 100% of the time, tripod. Not going to overstate. Or understate.

Much farther in idealized conditions. I get about a 80% cold bore rate on the IPSC at a mile at TVP with TRASOL. But I want this to be a clean, clean shot.

That elk I dropped was perfect. Didn’t budge, just dropped. Guide said to take an anchor shot. And I did. 3” off the first. At 725.
That's great! Hope everything works out for you.
Is that TVP in SE Ohio?
I'm looking for a mile to do some data gathering this summer with my 338LM and 6.5 PRC barrels. And they are the closest to me that I know of. I'm in SW Michigan.
 
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I’m a little disappointed in the m2 trigger vs the one in my gen2. It has an annoying little bit of creep to it and there’s no way to adjust it out. It’s set just under 2lbs and won’t really go much lower without the adjustment screw coming completely out. If a fellow measured the factory one he could probably find a replacement that would give a lighter pull.
Just curious, has anyone put an A1 trigger in an A2?
I'm sure DT has quit producing them, and getting anything from DT is a beyond belief experience, but it seems unlikely to me that they changed the A2 platform to where they needed to make a completely different trigger when everyone agrees on how good the A1's are / were. I can only think they have / had some issues they aren't talking about that cost them some money with the A1 triggers.
 
So, just signed on to a long range safari in South Africa with John X Safarisin 2023.

Have my 338LM and plenty of practice at distance, out to a mile with good DOPE in variable conditions.

Took a public land 330” Bull Elk at 725yds this past October.

Question is Bullet Selection.
I’m going for plains game.

I have boatloads of prime ammunition 300gr SMK.

Thoughts on SMK for plains game. Practical thoughts. I know everyone likes to drag target rounds, but it sure seemed to drop that elk like a rock. Didn’t walk a single step. Just stoned him.

I’m thinking Eland and smaller. No dangerous game, not giraffe (probably).

How much effort would you put into trying to procure or work up loads. Can’t find primers for a damn so I’d be left to start fresh by pulling bullets, seating something else.

Lathe turned solids? See what ELD hunter stuff I can find over time? Or just go with my guy and drop 300gr doing 2740 to anything within 800yds cleanly?

SMK's aren't what most PH's consider ideal so I would e-mail that question to your outfitter specifically.

I wouldn't use lathe turned solids for long range plains game. ELD-X or LRX are preferable to me, but assuming your PH doesn't object; your SMK's should work fine. With the shortage of components there may not be much you can do about it anyways.

That said... 338 won't cut it for some opportunity animals as 375 or larger is required by law, but unless you already have one I wouldn't buy anything that big as PH's almost always have a "protection" rifle with them in a large caliber, you can use that with their ammo (for a fee) which is way to go imo. On the other end 338 is awful big for a lot of plains game, so I would consider bringing a 243/6mm/6.5/308/etc. as well. It's less common for your PH to have a smaller caliber available without prior request.


As an aside to caliber talk:

1: Be sure to fill out your firearm import permits earlier rather than later. Last time I went Johannesburg allowed permits "on the spot", but I've never gone that route as I've heard reports there's a good (over 50%) chance of being denied. There are 3rd party companies that handle all the headaches and paperwork for you, for a fee of course, I personally prefer that route. Your outfitter should have 1 or 2, they work with often and recommend.
2: Creating a list of animals you want unless it's a life long bucket list animal usually doesn't work too well. Causing more frustration than enjoyment. Speaking from experience; set a loose budget and just enjoy the experiences/opportunities nature presents to you.
3. Don't let the PH talk you into game or shots you're not comfortable/interested in taking. Don't know how your specific outfitter will handle it with a long range package, but most of the time you pay the game fee whether it's retrieved or not. Often times that includes "any time" there is "any doubt" of whether the animal was hit or not. Keep in mind game meat is usually the main source of food during the hunt.
4. Monkeys... seem awesome, but they are not... they are real Jerks!
5. Have fun!
 
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Just curious, has anyone put an A1 trigger in an A2?
I'm sure DT has quit producing them, and getting anything from DT is a beyond belief experience, but it seems unlikely to me that they changed the A2 platform to where they needed to make a completely different trigger when everyone agrees on how good the A1's are / were. I can only think they have / had some issues they aren't talking about that cost them some money with the A1 triggers.

I thought about trying to swap the trigger from the gen 2 into the m2 but I never got around to it before I sold it unfortunately.
 
SMK's aren't what most PH's consider ideal so I would e-mail that question to your outfitter specifically.

I wouldn't use lathe turned solids for long range plains game. ELD-X or LRX are preferable to me, but assuming your PH doesn't object; your SMK's should work fine. With the shortage of components there may not be much you can do about it anyways.

That said... 338 won't cut it for some opportunity animals as 375 or larger is required by law, but unless you already have one I wouldn't buy anything that big as PH's almost always have a "protection" rifle with them in a large caliber, you can use that with their ammo (for a fee) which is way to go imo. On the other end 338 is awful big for a lot of plains game, so I would consider bringing a 243/6mm/6.5/308/etc. as well. It's less common for your PH to have a smaller caliber available without prior request.


As an aside to caliber talk:

1: Be sure to fill out your firearm import permits earlier rather than later. Last time I went Johannesburg allowed permits "on the spot", but I've never gone that route as I've heard reports there's a good (over 50%) chance of being denied. There are 3rd party companies that handle all the headaches and paperwork for you, for a fee of course, I personally prefer that route. Your outfitter should have 1 or 2, they work with often and recommend.
2: Creating a list of animals you want unless it's a life long bucket list animal usually doesn't work too well. Causing more frustration than enjoyment. Speaking from experience; set a loose budget and just enjoy the experiences/opportunities nature presents to you.
3. Don't let the PH talk you into game or shots you're not comfortable/interested in taking. Don't know how your specific outfitter will handle it with a long range package, but most of the time you pay the game fee whether it's retrieved or not. Often times that includes "any time" there is "any doubt" of whether the animal was hit or not. Keep in mind game meat is usually the main source of food during the hunt.
4. Monkeys... seem awesome, but they are not... they are real Jerks!
5. Have fun!
Thanks!
That was my idea; I have my 6.5 creed and 338 LM setups. No set list of species. 8 days hunting. I’ll smoke whatever sentinel baboon I come across in trees. Any recco for a firearm import guy?