Yep and I bought the A2 new and the A1 used. Bought the A1 because it was cheap but decided I wanted to fund a thermal instead. Both were coverts. I do wish my A2 had an A1 trigger but the A2 trigger is still way usable. Definitely not disappointed in it, but it could be better.
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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I wonder why desert tech fooled with the trigger then? I thought this updated trigger was a selling point? As long as a trigger is fairly crisp, the weight doesn’t matter much to me.
I’d say it’s crisp. But I have the trigger weight backed out as far as it’ll go and turned in like 1.5-2 turns and then nail polish on it to keep it from backing out. Like I said it’s still very usable. Maybe I’d say it’s comparable to a good AR trigger. But it’s no Triggertech Diamond.
If you use a collimated clip-on like a PVS-30 or PVS-27 or M2124LR it won't matter.
I was just out over last weekend playing with all 3 of those models of night vision device. A friend of mine had just put a 0moa NV bridge on his rifle that's running a 20moa rail and his optic, a Steiner T5, is mounted pretty low so he was looking through the bottom half of the NV. I had my M2 with a Steiner M7 and a Larue 111 which I selected because it puts the scope at just about the optimum height to look through the middle of my NV devices. I couldn't really tell the difference when switching between his rifle and mine.
I got the M2 partially because it had a full length canted rail but also for the ARCA-lock rail on the underside. As far as triggers go, it's the heaviest trigger I have on a LR rifle but it's crisp as hell and the weight doesn't bother me at all. I thought it might but it hasn't so far.
Getting the SRS-A2 hand gaurds caded up. Going to be making standard length, and 2” longer versions in Carbon fiber or aluminum depending on costs. Also working on making wider versions to accommodate suppressors inside the rail. With a quick attach system for changing hand guards in seconds.
I will post here with updates as this progresses if you are interested.
I will post here with updates as this progresses if you are interested.
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My guess is cost cutting and at the same time being able to say it’s more reliable because it is a much simpler mechanism than the older trigger.
Eta: On my old covert I had a 44moa 1.7” height Spuhr. I put a 2124-lr in front of that and had the same mini mail poi shift as other guns. It’s not as big of a deal as many make it out to be I don’t think. Just test your combination of components to verify.
I'm in. The factory rail is disappointing
Just about to buy a 223 conversion from SAC. Anyone do this in the past and wish they had done something specific or different after?
From what I’ve read they’re great.
Hardest part will be load development and finding components.
From what I’ve read they’re great.
Hardest part will be load development and finding components.
It should be a lot easier now with the A2's ability to more easily swap handguards. I got the Covert handguard for my Gen 1 when it came out, but it was just a giant PITA to swap that I just left it on, even with big heavy profile 36" barrels.
you still need to take the entire stock apart to swap hand guards on the A2s, its not hard but not fast either.
just a fyi that maybe you guys all knew about but i didnt, mk machining has a thumb shelf for the srs grip in case anybody likes to float thier thumb when shooting
their website let my purchase it last night. ill have to double check that i didnt pay for something that wont be available for 6 months.
thanks for the heads up
thanks for the heads up
Does anyone here know where a guy can find a RH 338 bolt head for the srs ot maybe even an entire bolt assembly ? Any help would be appreciated.
Special purpose rifles is where it’s at. They have incredible customer service, super friendly, and fast.
I bought a 13-slot rail and milled off about .25" to butt up against the existing rail. I also had to grind off some nubs on the bottom of the rail that didn't line up with the M-lok slots on the handguard. The rail is slightly taller than the receiver rail for some reason, but not a big deal. The problem is I can't interchange barrels with the rail on, and I didn't want to take the rail off every time I swapped. So I abandoned it...
Did you grind off the excess length on the m-lock screws? I think the forward part of the rail on the m2 is just held on by mlock hardware but the screws don’t stick past the tabs.
Special Purpose rifles hooked me up. Thank you to those that got me pointed in that direction.
I did not. Might have to go back and take another look at the situation....
Its finally here... Elite Iron can still in ATF jail...
I also tried something like this. I ground down the extra length of all the screws, and even ground down the mlok hardware to make it thinner. Long story short, anything mounted on the top rail eliminates the ability to remove or swap barrels! Stupid design from DT. Wish there was more clearance.
You can have a switch barrel rifle, and a 12 o clock picatinny rail, but you can't have both!
Beastly thing man. Awesome. What caliber did you end up with?
I’ve have mulled that over for a long while. “No kill like overkill.” I humped the 338 over elk country; that was enough work.
I wanted a 338, and found at the time I ordered the rifle ammo was a bit harder to get and almost as expensive.. Its a novelty gun really, I wont be humping that thing anywhere.. I'm gonna drive to the shooting bench, lob a few rounds through the WV hills and drive back home.. Ultimately I will buy the 375 CheyTec barrel for it and work with that as a precision rifle.. The .50 was more a "fool and his money soon part" quote coming true in real life..
What bolt knob is that? ThanksRe: Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Th
LOL SOOOO Not true Poundcake...
Man you gonna have to make trip down here for a weekend of shooting. We can do ELR, ELR combined with high angle, etc etc etc.
Well I noticed the cerakote thread so figured I would go ahead and post this pic of new SRS cerakoted FDE
Here is thru the scope pic at 1450m IIRC..it might have been 1500m I don't remember.
Thanks
What's wrong with the plastic one? It doesn't get hot, it's big and easy to find and grasp, it's literally as compact and low profile as you could get. What I want is an extension for the bolt handle that moves the bolt knob forward by about 2 inches and down by about an inch.
Finally got the foam for my DT branded hard case. Came out pretty good. I have the pattern if anyone else wants one or something like it. It holds the scoped rifle with PVS-22/24/26/30 plus up to 2 spare barrels (1x 16-22" barrel with brake + 1x >=24" barrel with brake), 6 short magazine slots, 6 long magazine slots, 3 bolts, a big pocket to keep things like a PVS-27 or your operator's kit & sundries or plenty of ammo or whatever makes your little cars go round and round, a slot for the T-handle torque wrench and a slot that will hold the DT multi-tool plus up to 2 more allen/torx multi-tools. We can't have suppressors in my state or there'd be a slot for that. This version uses the DT branded hard case which is actually an SKB case (3l-4214-5). It uses their premium top cover foam.
Some design features:
The rifle is meant to be put in the case without the bolt in the gun so there's 3 bolt slots.
There's room for an extra long or short magazine to be in the rifle or the space for it can be used for other stuff.
Fits a rifle with butt pad and 2 extensions.
Plenty of padding around the optics.
Recess built in for the scope's windage knob.
Taller standoffs for extra barrels so they don't clang into each other.
I used my other bigger case foam design as a base. The optic cutouts are model specific and mounting location sensitive. I have my scope mounted a notch or two further back than most. I feel more comfortable with it with a longer than normal LOP which causes me to have to set the scope back a tiny bit. This one is set up for my Steiner M7 4-28x. The foam is pretty firm so I could get away with 1 inch of padding around the tender bits. Fully loaded it'll get up around 50-70lbs depending on what I actually put in it. All the parts that show bends in the walls straighten out when you start loading it up.
Some design features:
The rifle is meant to be put in the case without the bolt in the gun so there's 3 bolt slots.
There's room for an extra long or short magazine to be in the rifle or the space for it can be used for other stuff.
Fits a rifle with butt pad and 2 extensions.
Plenty of padding around the optics.
Recess built in for the scope's windage knob.
Taller standoffs for extra barrels so they don't clang into each other.
I used my other bigger case foam design as a base. The optic cutouts are model specific and mounting location sensitive. I have my scope mounted a notch or two further back than most. I feel more comfortable with it with a longer than normal LOP which causes me to have to set the scope back a tiny bit. This one is set up for my Steiner M7 4-28x. The foam is pretty firm so I could get away with 1 inch of padding around the tender bits. Fully loaded it'll get up around 50-70lbs depending on what I actually put in it. All the parts that show bends in the walls straighten out when you start loading it up.
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