Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Is anyone using the factory 22" 308 barrel with the SRS

If so. what was/is your most accurate load combo?

I have several thousand Lapua Scenar 155,s ...........which combined with 45.0gr AR2208 ( Varget) produce literally one whole groups at 100mtrs with a Unique Alpine TPG-1 ....but so far the SRS doesn't seem to like that load at all!

Same with the 155 Sierra,s the SRS does not seem to like them , but again shot fantastic in the UA TPG-1..

I have some Beger 169 VLD,s that i am trying next...here in Aus we are limited to ADI powders ...though I do still have a substantial supply of RL 15 as well as the 2208.
Mine loves 175 sierra's. The 168 not so much. I've never tried anything lighter
 
Haven’t a handful of people had 1.25” straight contour barrels spun up?
I have a bunch of 6cm ammo, enough to kill a barrel, and nothing to shoot it in. Throw a truck axle barrel in the srs and maybe I’ it’ll balance a little better for barricade benchrest matches? I realize it’s still not the ideal setup for it but run what you got right.
 
Haven’t a handful of people had 1.25” straight contour barrels spun up?
I have a bunch of 6cm ammo, enough to kill a barrel, and nothing to shoot it in. Throw a truck axle barrel in the srs and maybe I’ it’ll balance a little better for barricade benchrest matches? I realize it’s still not the ideal setup for it but run what you got right.
I did a heavy varmint for a 6gt, 7 saum and have a 30 cal barrel sitting there for a 300 norma later. It works
 
Had a great day today with the little SRS

Had MANY rifles over the years , AI,s... TRG,s ...Unique Alpine and many custom,s..........The SRS has turned out to be my utter favourite! ......Love it !

Shot today at 1000mtrs....... plate is 10" Dia. First 5 shot string is in the upper/centre of the plate !! Shot the second 5 shot string which spread a little...BUT this was most likely due to me being so excited by the first group of 5 ( also getting the 155gr Scenars to work ) and getting a little to keen ..:giggle:

Load was
46.8gr AR2208
Lapua Scenar 155
OAL...2.860
 

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Ok guys, I'm having a real doofus moment. So I now have an SRS M2 and it's unlike the Gen 1 in how you remove the buttpad to install the bolt, but for the life of me I can't seem to remove it. The instructions say to pull the forward-most tab to the rear while applying downward force on the buttpad, yet mine doesn't want to budge, no matter how far I pull the tab or how hard I tap down on the buttopad. What's the secret?
 
Ok guys, I'm having a real doofus moment. So I now have an SRS M2 and it's unlike the Gen 1 in how you remove the buttpad to install the bolt, but for the life of me I can't seem to remove it. The instructions say to pull the forward-most tab to the rear while applying downward force on the buttpad, yet mine doesn't want to budge, no matter how far I pull the tab or how hard I tap down on the buttopad. What's the secret?
You probably have to pull it a little farther than you think you do and then smack it downward.
 
Ok guys, I'm having a real doofus moment. So I now have an SRS M2 and it's unlike the Gen 1 in how you remove the buttpad to install the bolt, but for the life of me I can't seem to remove it. The instructions say to pull the forward-most tab to the rear while applying downward force on the buttpad, yet mine doesn't want to budge, no matter how far I pull the tab or how hard I tap down on the buttopad. What's the secret?
I have just ordered an SRS A2 to compliment my SRS Gen 1...will be interesting to compare...:)

How are you finding the M2 vs your Gen 1?
 
Ok guys, I'm having a real doofus moment. So I now have an SRS M2 and it's unlike the Gen 1 in how you remove the buttpad to install the bolt, but for the life of me I can't seem to remove it. The instructions say to pull the forward-most tab to the rear while applying downward force on the buttpad, yet mine doesn't want to budge, no matter how far I pull the tab or how hard I tap down on the buttopad. What's the secret?
Rmeove the butt pad, then the first spacer then the second spacer. Sometimes it's just easier that way than trying to remove them all at one time.
 
Yes, they will work because they use the same barrel extension. The only incompatibility between generations of SRS models is you can not fit a Gen 1 extension into an SRS that uses a Gen 2 extension. The reason for this is the early models 2008-2010 (ie Gen 1) used a barrel extension that indexes off of a delicate pin. The Gen 2 extension is far more robust and indexes directly off of the feed ramp. So you can fit a Gen 2 into a Gen 1 but not the other way around.

Note: there are also Left Hand extensions out there for LH receivers.
 
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Some load development today using the Hornady 168gr ELD-M... looking good..

Few groups at 520mtrs....... Wind caused a little grief with L/R shifts..
 

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Yes, they will work because they use the same barrel extension. The only incompatibility between generations of SRS models is you can not fit a Gen 1 extension into an SRS that uses a Gen 2 extension. The reason for this is the early models 2008-2010 (ie Gen 1) used a barrel extension that indexes off of a delicate pin. The Gen 2 extension is far more robust and indexes directly off of the feed ramp. So you can fit a Gen 2 into a Gen 1 but not the other way around.

Note: there are also Left Hand extensions out there for LH receivers.
thanks, will keep the barrels when I get the SRS Gen 2
 
Anybody else have these issues with the monopods… got this during fall and it did this from the beginning. Pretty annoying. Might just m remove the damn thing but that seems like a pain in the ass

Edit: the monopod just fully extends and falls down if twist all the way up…. Slightest bump and it’ll drop to full length. Needs to be twisted down a decent amount for it to stay stowed away

Edit 2: is the video link working?

 
Anybody else have these issues with the monopods… got this during fall and it did this from the beginning. Pretty annoying. Might just m remove the damn thing but that seems like a pain in the ass

Edit: the monopod just fully extends and falls down if twist all the way up…. Slightest bump and it’ll drop to full length. Needs to be twisted down a decent amount for it to stay stowed away

Edit 2: is the video link working?


Maybe something is pushing on it when you fully screw it into the chassis. As if you pushing down on it to deploy the mono pod.
 
The knurled wheel shouldn’t touch the skins and it should run up basically flush into the cutout. I can’t see any video.
I can’t put it up any higher than that or the monopod will fully deploy (almost like slipping)
Maybe something is pushing on it when you fully screw it into the chassis. As if you pushing down on it to deploy the mono pod.
Just checked. Nothing pushing on the knurled piece to release the spring tension… if I screw it up any higher than that it’ll full spike down

Anybody know how to upload videos?? It’ll be much better explained then
 
First magnum on the DT. It shoots so soft. I'm excited to do a 300 norma next year. 7 saum 31 inch barrel. Kreiger heavy varmint 8 twist this was the 3rd group i shot of 190 lrht. 15 rounds down the tube.
 

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First magnum on the DT. It shoots so soft. I'm excited to do a 300 norma next year. 7 saum 31 inch barrel. Kreiger heavy varmint 8 twist this was the 3rd group i shot of 190 lrht. 15 rounds down the tube.

Where did you get your barrel and what kind of chamber? What speeds are you getting?

I’m using the SAC modified mag for 7 SAUM it feeds perfectly.
 
Where did you get your barrel and what kind of chamber? What speeds are you getting?

I’m using the SAC modified mag for 7 SAUM it feeds perfectly.
My smith did it. It's a keriger one. I'd have to find the chamber specs but it's not the chamber it's hitting the face of the barrel. I'll have to play with it a bit. What's the max case length for the sac mags?
 
Went and broke in my .338LM barrel. First 10 rounds of S&B 250gr were scattergun then it snugged right up and went to ~.5MOA 5-shot groups for 10 more rounds of S&B 250gr and then 20 rounds of Lapua 300gr. Velocity check on the last 10 rounds of the Lapua ammo came in right at the advertised velocity. Then I put the SAC .223 barrel in and rattled off 20 rounds of Hornady Black 75gr into 5-shot groups. Should have started with the 223 as I developed a bit of a flinch by the end of the 338's. After the first 20rds of 223 the flinch subsided and I put the last 20 rounds of the day (more 223 75's) rapid-fire into a hole the size of a thumbnail. The DT .338 brake isn't exceedingly effective but it kept the thump down to at least tolerable levels. All in all, it was about $400 in ammo which hurt a bit but it needed to be done.
 
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My smith did it. It's a keriger one. I'd have to find the chamber specs but it's not the chamber it's hitting the face of the barrel. I'll have to play with it a bit. What's the max case length for the sac mags?

I don’t think it’s the barrel/chamber was curious on your build since I just got a 7 SAUM barrel for mine as well. That should be an absolute beast.

The SAC can load up to 3.25:

https://shortactioncustoms.com/product/desert-tech-mid-action-magazine-upgrade/
 
When I moved back to the Land of No Suppressors, I replaced the DTA brakes on my barrels with APA Fat Bastard brakes, and my newer barrels are using Area419 Sidewinder & Hellfire brakes. All are much more effective than the DTA old school brake and especially the DT QD brake.
 
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Not bad numbers for factory AMAX.. Question, both my HTI 50 BMG mags had the same issue with the deepest 5th round wedging or getting stuck in the mag. Has anyone else had this issue? And if so does it wear in or do I need to send the mags back to DT? It was easily solved with a little tapping on my hand, for a magazine that cost just under $255.00 I wouldn't think I should have that issue..

Thanks

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What kind of chronograph is that? Are you running a factory Desert Tech .50 BMG barrel assembly or custom?
 
Do you guys have a separate scope and mount for your additional calibers on your HTIs and SRS? My current optic is zeroed for my .408 barrel kit and as far as I can tell, when I remove the .408 and put it back on it maintained zero. So what I was thinking about doing was getting a separate optic and mount (Sphur maybe) for the .375 CT barrel and swapping out optics when I switch barrels. Any of you tried that? If so what optic/mount combo did you use?
 
Do you guys have a separate scope and mount for your additional calibers on your HTIs and SRS? My current optic is zeroed for my .408 barrel kit and as far as I can tell, when I remove the .408 and put it back on it maintained zero. So what I was thinking about doing was getting a separate optic and mount (Sphur maybe) for the .375 CT barrel and swapping out optics when I switch barrels. Any of you tried that? If so what optic/mount combo did you use?
Sir not all of us can afford $7 bullets and another 4500 in optics 🤣🤣 some of us have to buy gas currently
 
Do you guys have a separate scope and mount for your additional calibers on your HTIs and SRS? My current optic is zeroed for my .408 barrel kit and as far as I can tell, when I remove the .408 and put it back on it maintained zero. So what I was thinking about doing was getting a separate optic and mount (Sphur maybe) for the .375 CT barrel and swapping out optics when I switch barrels. Any of you tried that? If so what optic/mount combo did you use?

But...why? I mean, you could do that, but a cheaper/easier/pragmatic solution is just to log the offsets between barrels. My Gen 1 has had up to 12 barrels at any given time and whenever I swap a barrel, I just not the offset to zero difference and add it to my DOPE. That's also a reason I switched to using Field Firing Solutions way back when: because you could store those offsets in each rifle (barrel) profile so that it's a seamless process.

If you've only got a few barrels, just zero your scope to your most commonly used barrel/load. Then shoot your other barrel/loads and note the offset. For example, my 26" 6.5x47L barrel is 0.0 Up and 0.0 Right. The 20" 6.5x47L barrel is 0.1 U and 0.2 R. 16" .308WIN is -1.0U 0.5 L, etc
 
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When I moved back to the Land of No Suppressors, I replaced the DTA brakes on my barrels with APA Fat Bastard brakes, and my newer barrels are using Area419 Sidewinder & Hellfire brakes. All are much more effective than the DTA old school brake and especially the DT QD brake.
I’m about to have to do the same (Damn you New York!!!), and was curious as to peoples preferences with muzzle devices.
 
I often shoot in NV with suppressors and one of the selling points of the Area 419 brakes is the universal adapters. However, there's a recent thread here on the Hide where someone had adapters out of concentricity that led to baffle strikes.
 
Sir not all of us can afford $7 bullets and another 4500 in optics 🤣🤣 some of us have to buy gas currently
4500??? I was hoping I could meet the requirement with a Vortex Gen II razor.

I hear you on the gas though (Let’s go Brandon). Biggest problem I have had is not so much cost but Retumbo availability for the .408. Hence the reason I’m undertaking this project with my .375 barrel. I’ve got enough H50BMG, RL50, and 20N29 leftover from my defunct .50 BMG project to burn through several .375 CT barrels.
 
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4500??? I was hoping I could meet the requirement with a Vortex Gen II razor.

I hear you on the gas though (Let’s go Brandon). Biggest problem I have had is not so much cost but Retumbo availability for the .408. Hence the reason I’m undertaking this project with my .375 barrel. I’ve got enough H50BMG, RL50, and 20N29 leftover from my defunct .50 BMG project to burn through several .375 CT barrels.
Actually glass seems to have come done alot. Gen 3s are like 2400 now. I'm thinking of getting a eotech vudu for a semi auto coyote gun.
 
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But...why? I mean, you could do that, but a cheaper/easier/pragmatic solution is just to log the offsets between barrels. My Gen 1 has had up to 12 barrels at any given time and whenever I swap a barrel, I just not the offset to zero difference and add it to my DOPE. That's also a reason I switched to using Field Firing Solutions way back when: because you could store those offsets in each rifle (barrel) profile so that it's a seamless process.

If you've only got a few barrels, just zero your scope to your most commonly used barrel/load. Then shoot your other barrel/loads and note the offset. For example, my 26" 6.5x47L barrel is 0.0 Up and 0.0 Right. The 20" 6.5x47L barrel is 0.1 U and 0.2 R. 16" .308WIN is -1.0U 0.5 L, etc
I have a significant offset between .408 and .375. .375 is about 6 MOA right and 1.5 MOA up. The defunct .50 BMG was similar but I was never able to get a load developed for it.

So I figured I’d just get a new scope and repeatable mount for the .375 barrel.