Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#5,553
I received the Kahles 624i AMR this week from DTA. I got it mounted on the SRS and it looks and feels awesome. I can't wait to get it out to the range. Then I saw some things on the internet that make me want to cry. DTA charged me $3694 before shipping and I probably would have said no to that price, but I had been on the waiting list since August so I took it. Now I see it listed on some dealer sites for the standard K624i price and had one dealer give me a price quote of $2866 to get it by January. Did I pay over $800 extra to get this scope a month early? I feel sick.
 
#5,555

Wow $3.7K is a lot of money for a scope that has not been tried and trued like a S&B PMII or even a Premier Heritage. I think it will be a nice scope and has solid companies backing it. I just remember the first year when Premier had some issues with their Heritage scopes. After seeing the issues with early Premiers I decided that I did not want to pay big bucks to be a guinea pig for a scope manufacturer.

My recommendation now that you have it is to shoot it and enjoy what you have. If you don't like it then get something else.
 
#5,556
I don't know about tried and true, but the K624i has been around for well over a year, not? I don't know if I would consider myself a guinea pig, but either way that doesn't bother me. Yes, I have it, will shoot it, and hope to enjoy it. I am not looking for something else. My only question is, why did it cost so much more to get it from DTA?
 
#5,558

The price of the Kahles scopes they sell with non-AMR reticles are comparable with other dealers. So I believed them when they told me that Kahles was charging more for the AMR. I guess I just got too wrapped up in the excitement of the scope and was caught off guard in the phone conversation when I found out the price and gave the go ahead.
 
#5,561

Nope, just the scope. I called today and the price list the salesman I talked to had listed the same price ($3694) for the MSR reticle. There seemed to be some confusion about the price increase so he said he was going to dig deeper and give me a call back. I can only hope I was overcharged.
 
#5,565
So you had Dale thread the Alpha M22x1.5 for the CT? Was E.I. out of Windtalkers or am I missing some ultra-cool way to use the Alpha on both calibers? I only ask because I am in the same boat using HTI in 50 and (hopefully some @#$%ing day) .375. After my great luck with the EI Sierra I've been talking with Dale at EI about what to do next but haven't come up with the best answer yet...
 
#5,567
Going to GA to hog hunt and plane on using dta with 308 covert, it's a 16" 1-8 twist, may consider the 26" 260 barrel. Wondering what's gonna be the best bullet for this application? I use 175smk and 168 and 178 amax though it now, the 260 loves the 123 amax and the 140 amax are great too. I know the matching is out, I hear good and bad about the amax, seems like they are okay on deer at distance but not close range but I have no personal experience other than ground hogs.
Thanks for any help, hope no one gets to upset caus I know there other threads but I like to hear from my fellow dta brothers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
 
#5,572
Great pictures and information! Keep it coming!!! I love all the quick feedback you guys from DTA provide for us here on the Hide. Still waiting for my second DTA SRS. Have been very pleased with my first one I got from Reximus in August. Just got Samsung 4s smartphone, so I I could give Bryan Litzy's Android APP. Looks great. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
#5,574

There are a number that make them. A good smith with the barrel drawings could do it for you too.

The great thing with getting a custom conversions from companies like SAC and TS, is that you get exactly what you want. Also if you had a thread attach .30 cal suppressor before purchasing a DTA rifle, chances are your suppressor will be threaded 5/8 X 24 and all barrels from DTA are 3/4 X 24.

While getting exactly what you want is great, I have found that the Factory DTA conversion are incredibly accurate. My factory DTA .260 conversion, routinely shoots groups that are sub 1/4 MOA. All of the other conversions that I have tried have all lived up to DTA's 1/2 MOA promise.

Unless you need a different thread pitch, barrel length, or caliber that DTA does not offer, I don't think anyone will be disappointed with a Factory DTA Conversion.
 
#5,575
Reading the previous post from ney really solidifies the choice I made in rifles. There are so many choices out there and to see a company follow up as seen here really says something.

Now if I could only find some 300 WM dies....
 
#5,577

Ain't that the damned truth! Putting out factory barrels that shoot lights out has been a priority for DTA and it shows. My first .338LM barrel that came with my rifle in early '09 was accurate, but I was just floored when I got a 16" .308WIN, not expecting it to shoot 1/2MOA or better. And my 26" 6.5x47L barrel from them is hands down the most accurate I've ever shot, routinely giving me groups at distances that I would expect much closer. But as said above, it's also nice to be able to have a 3rd party spin custom barrels as well with different barrel lengths, twist rates, groove profiles, let alone wildcats and less common cartridges.
 
#5,578
Has anyone been able to remove the entire arm off there bolt. It seems to be in pretty good. Must be some NASA grade loktite. Also trying to remove the ejector claw from the bolt face. Looks like a pin in the middle of it. Had a little issue with my bolt that I'm looking at trying something with.
 
#5,579

There have been some upgrades to bolts. Depending on when your bolt was manufactured…….. Gen 1 bolts had an industrial grade Epoxy/loctite, sorry I don't know exactly what the name of the stuff was, but it's very rare that they come loose. The new Gen 2 bolts are actually welded from the inside. If you strip the bolt and look inside you will see a spot weld. Now even a better system may be coming down the pipe, I won't elaborate, but DTA is constantly improving on even the smallest aspects of the system.

Ejector claw? Do you mean the ejector plunger or the extractor claw? 2 different parts and not interchangeable.

Russ
 
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#5,583
Heat will make loctite soft. You can try heating it in your oven to get it out if you have a gen1. We use "industrial loctite" at my work to lock parts together. It is green in color and called "retaining compound". Heat works with that as well. 160f is normally what i heat to when i want to remove it.
 
#5,586

Thanks Russ, yes it's the claw. I have included a pic. Of course it's the claw on the left. The plunger is easy as it's just a roll pin to be knocked out.



Long story but I had my bolt micro slicked and it's failed. It felt like it was jamming and it was wearing everywhere.




So I have been slowly removing it and now polishing it.


The aim is to remove the claw, plunger and bolt arm. Finish removing all the gunk and polish the whole piece. I was toying with the idea of having the bolt body and the inner and outter of the sleeve TiN coated.

I checked the bolt and I can not see a spot weld. Mines a very early Gen 2, delivered mid 2011. I will drop it on the oven and give that a try. Need to get the knob off first as that wouldn't be a funny lesson.
 
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#5,587
Depress the plunger through the hole in the extractor with a small punch or paper clip. Slide it out of the bolt. Very simple. Careful, small parts tend to fly across the room!

Yours is not welded for sure. For the life of me I can't remember what they call it, but I doubt baking it is going to help.
 
#5,588

Thanks Russ, got the claw out and knob off, just need to punch out the role pin and get that arm off before it's off to be coated. If worse case comes I guess the arms going to be treated too. But thanks heaps Russ around the claw.
 
#5,589
hey man, you're welcome.

Have you considered or asked the guys doing the Tin coating how this might effect the hardness of your bolt or considered how the Tin coating will adversely affect the coating in you chassis?
 
#5,590
We used to use an epoxy called Hysol to repair cracks in missile and laser guided bomb fins that were used repeatedly for war game sorties. Once it was on it was all done. It was designed to be heat resistant. May be similar stuff being used out there.
 
#5,592

Hysol used to make a wide variety of epoxies and bonding agents for use in the aerospace industry. We used EA9410 and EA9430 quite a lot for bonding honeycomb to the fiberglass or carbon skins as well as for bonding aluminum parts together. Missles....planes, drones and many others. I'd never use it to bond a threaded part in though. Too many other cheaper materials out there. We used gallons of loctite products on indycars and the green comes in a few different variations. I think the RC620 is a wicking type you apply after screwing the parts together, RC680 is cylindrical part bonding compound......lots of variations and all of them require at least 400 deg F to make them removable. On the other hand the blue and purple types soften at 200deg F or less. Some of the red types can take more than 450F to soften so if your part is still stuck and you know its not welded it may take more heat. Not sure what DTA is using but some compounds aren't heat soften-able. Always best to check with the manufacturer. On my early gen 1 rifle the bolt handle came loose after cycling a couple times. I used red loctite to make it fairly permanent. My buddies earlier gen 1 got loose too but another friends later gun was solid from the get-go. At some point they made a change to the locking material that worked great.
To add to what Russ said....titanium nitriding your bolt may end up wearing out the aluminum receiver.....are you really gaining anything from polishing and changing tolerances and then adding a harder material? I think the bolt is the last piece I'd fool with....along with the extension. These are the pieces that keep your face from changing into an abstract art display.


Frank
 
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#5,593
how do i find out how much longer it will take to get the rifle? would dta have that under my name or my ffl store have check for me. im diving into 8 1/2 months. we talking like over yr waiting time? i haven't called anyone at all, so im just wondering.
 
#5,594

I am a dealer for DTA and I am still getting items I ordered from SHOT 11 months ago. You are probably getting close. If you dealer placed the order, I would have them make the call to DTA.
 
#5,595

I'm over 9 months now, was told in April that new orders were going to take 6 months and mine would be about 4 months. At this point I'm not even thinking about it anymore. I'm sure some day my phone will ring letting me know it's ready.
 
#5,598
Myself and a mate picked up our A-1's today... we noticed some very interesting things about our rifles. The serial numbers are about 50 units apart, so not a huge amount, however there are a few differences.

- First up our bolts are noticeably different in that mine is what you typically see, but my friends bolt has clear markings on the bolt body to allow you to determine which bolt face you currently have in. Its a nice touch and looks really cool.

- We both have HTI mounts but they are both different. My HTI mount is slightly longer in length and has no spirit level. My mates HTI mount is shorter in length and has an inbuilt spirit level, kind of like the SPUHR mounts.

- My barrel is different in that the thread cover is different, as are the cartridge designations and barrel flutes, despite both rifles being in 6.5x47 and both arriving at the same time.

- Triggers are 2.5lb and 2.0lb

Thats about all I can remember, but yeah just thought I would share some interesting findings :)
 
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