What is the best way to open up the barrel channel on a HS stock? I've had this gun doe years and don't know what would have shifted to allow the barrel to rub. Thanks.
Gunsmithing Opening up HS stock?
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
Have you checked your action screws to make sure they are tight ? Is the stock pillar bedded ? Has the barrel been removed, then re-installed on the receiver and the recoil lug straight or crooked ? Any of those could cause mis-alignment and I'd sure check those items before I started taking any material out of the stock.
Checked action screws. Actually had it in a aics for a while. It is an HS stock so it should have a aluminum bedding block
Was there another action in the stock while it was off or was the stock uninstalled in the meantime?
No the stock was empty while it was off. The barrel rubbing issue started a long time ago. That's part of the reason I switched to an aics for a while. I was going to send it to SAC for a once over and bedding job but that seems like a waste of time and money if I can just open up the stock. I don't know what would have shifted to make it rubb
To answer your original question; If the barrel is indeed touching the stock and you really do want to remove material from the stock, what I would do is this;
1. Remove the barreled action from the stock and apply as many layers of duct tape to the barrel (adhesive side towards the barrel) in the area of contact as necessary to come within close proximity of the contact area.
2. Re-install the barreled action into the stock and torque down the action screws to 60 or 65 inch pounds.
3. Gently pull the stock away from the barrel and insert a piece of medium grit sandpaper, abrasive side away from the barrel, facing the stock.
4. Pull the sandpaper back and forth (like a shoe shine cloth), removing a little stock material at a time. You will probably need a rifle vise, or a buddy to hold the whole works while you are doing this.
I think you see what I am trying to illustrate.....You will probably have to remove the barreled action and apply an additional layer of duct tape a number of times as a result of the gap increasing from running the sandpaper back and forth. Repeat the process as many times as you wish to achieve your desired results.
I have reservations about doing the above, because it really isn't actually solving the problem. There is a reason the barreled action isn't sitting straight in the stock and removing material from one side of the barrel channel doesn't address the underlying problem. Fundamentally, the action isn't sitting straight in the stock and that issue is what should be resolved. The other downside is that now you will have a stock that is all kattywompus from removing material from one side of the barrel channel.
1. Remove the barreled action from the stock and apply as many layers of duct tape to the barrel (adhesive side towards the barrel) in the area of contact as necessary to come within close proximity of the contact area.
2. Re-install the barreled action into the stock and torque down the action screws to 60 or 65 inch pounds.
3. Gently pull the stock away from the barrel and insert a piece of medium grit sandpaper, abrasive side away from the barrel, facing the stock.
4. Pull the sandpaper back and forth (like a shoe shine cloth), removing a little stock material at a time. You will probably need a rifle vise, or a buddy to hold the whole works while you are doing this.
I think you see what I am trying to illustrate.....You will probably have to remove the barreled action and apply an additional layer of duct tape a number of times as a result of the gap increasing from running the sandpaper back and forth. Repeat the process as many times as you wish to achieve your desired results.
I have reservations about doing the above, because it really isn't actually solving the problem. There is a reason the barreled action isn't sitting straight in the stock and removing material from one side of the barrel channel doesn't address the underlying problem. Fundamentally, the action isn't sitting straight in the stock and that issue is what should be resolved. The other downside is that now you will have a stock that is all kattywompus from removing material from one side of the barrel channel.
I still have fingerprints missing from working/reworking HS stocks, at HS. would be interesting to know if it's a full length bedding block on that style. If it moved I reckon it was pulled from the mold poorly or too soon.Good idea, may be simpler/faster that what I just suggested
Here are some pics if anyone has any ideas why the barrel would be rubbing on the stock. It does indeed have a full bedding block.
By full bedding block I mean it goes all the way to the bottom metal. It doesn't extend forward past the action.
I built a .338 Lapua Magnum on a PST-26 (IIRC). Sold it in the last year or so, so I can't look at it to check. I vaguely recall the barrel wasn't exactly centered in the channel. As far as I knew, there wasn't anything I could do to re-align the action because of the bedding block (Or, it was more bother than it was worth/I wanted to mess with). I liked the stock, but I vowed to never own another HS product again, after the Horiuchi situation.
I thought it was a PSS or similar stock. I bought the gun already done up with a can and a scope that is a super sniper clone, customized by AWC years ago.
I'm with you 100% but this gun has history. Me and my buddies used it to smoke a bunch of groundhogs at 550+ yards when we were younger.
That barrel channel swallop and the fit and finish of the block just doesn't look right. And I don't recognize the grip on the pistol and forend. You sure that's an HS?
Understood.....And, not trying to impose my beliefs on others. It is an individual choice, none of my business.
HS barrel channels are usually smooth under the barrel, it's how the mandrels lay in the stock mold..
