Opinions on components for first custom build

[CBaker124]

Hey fellas I’m new to forum and seeking some advice/opinions for a fully custom BA rifle I’m planning on having built. My objective is a multi purpose build, I’m hoping to put together a package that I can easily hit targets out to and over 1,000 yds. off the bench but also conserve as much weight as I possibly can so that I can still use the rifle to hunt with and do some off hand shooting with it. My target range for weight is 7.5 lbs so if I can keep the rifle in that area +/- .5lb. I’ll be extremely happy. I grew up hunting with magnums, 7MM and .30 cals so I’m thinking about chambering the rifle in either 28 Nosler, 30 Nosler, 300 Norma, or 300 PRC. Right now I’m really leaning towards 300 PRC but kind of torn between it and the Norma. I don’t have a budget on this build and don’t plan on skimping anywhere on it. I figure I’ll probably never build another full on custom so I may as well use the best components I can get my hands on. So here’s my list of components I’m considering using, I would love to hear some opinions on them (good or bad) from anyone who is familiar with them and may have a similar build. I’ll lest them in order from what I’m considering the most to what I’m least considering. Here goes.

Action: Lone Peak Fuzion TI, Defiance AntiX, BAT Machine Vampire. (I plan on having the action trued and blueprinted, possibly DLC on the bolt and action, and pairing the with a TriggerTech Special trigger, open to other triggeroptions.)

Barrel: 27” McGowen SS w/cut rifling, 1-9.5 twist in a Light Palma contour with flat skip/hammer flutes, McWhorter, or Benchmark with the same specs.

Brake: Area 419 Maverick or Terminator.

Stock: McMillan A3-Sporter or Manners MCS-T3.

Bottom Metal: HS Precision DBM, 406 Precision DBM, or Hawkins DBM.

For the gunsmith I’m looking at Snowy Mountain Rifles, Rocky Mountain Precision (RMP Rifles), or Lane Precision.

 

[spife7980]

Action: Lone Peak Fuzion TI, Defiance AntiX, BAT Machine Vampire. (I plan on having the action trued and blueprinted

Why? You’re buying an expensive action that comes that way.

 

[b6graham]

never heard of any of those smiths

and if theyre the ones suggesting truing and blueprinting any of the custom actions on the market i'd run as fast as you fucking can

those stock are gonna be hard to make your target weight i think.

action 1.5 pounds
barrel 4-5 pounds
either stock: 2-2.5 pounds

trigger DBM and brake/can on top of that

 

[Hawk in WY]

I understand the low weight thing: Carry it all day. Shoot it once.

You will find a 7.5-pound rifle in those calibers extremely difficult to shoot well, particularly off a bench, but also in the field.

For me, the sweet spot would be 8.5 to 9 pounds.

That said, every magnum caliber rifle I built ends up 9.5 to 12 pounds.

Action: 2 pounds
Barrel: 3 pounds
Stock: 2 pounds
Scope: 2 pounds

Add bottom metal, brake, loaded rounds, bipod, and sling and I struggle to get to 9.5 pounds.

Your parts list is good. Get your parts together and send them to LongRifles, Inc. Even better, speak with them now.

Thank me later.

 

[Choid]

Snowy Mountain is good people. Good smith.

 

[AZ_Spot&Stalk]

I would also look into what reloading supplies you are able to find at the moment. I haven't looked specifically for 300 PRC bit have seen lots of people looking for brass and factory ammo. Could be wrong but sounds like they are hard to come by at the moment?

 

[waspocrew]

Dallas Lane (Lane Precision) builds absolute hammers. Not sure on the lead time at the moment but it’s worth the wait. He may even have some of the build components ready to go.

 

[CBaker124]

Thanks for the replies guys, I’ve never entered the realm of an aftermarket action so I wasn’t sure if they came blueprinted or not.
Hawk, I know 7-1/2lbs will be hard to come by but I’ve seen some similar builds from Alamo Precision that have come pretty close to that in a McMillan A3-5, just tipping the scale at a little over 8lbs. I initially figured on doing this build in an A3-5 and had calculated the rifle to come in somewhere around 10lbs. I checked out a new Browning X-Bolt target in the McM A3-5 Sportman’s Warehouse had and decided that the A3-5 wasn’t going to be a good choice for the build. I have a Kimber 84M Open country in 6.5 CM that comes factory with a 24” heavy contour barrel in an AG composites carbon stock that weighs just a little over 8lbs fully dressed. It’s all barrel but it balances/stabilizes really nice and is a pleasure to shoot from any position. After throwing out the A3-5 stock I figured I’d be better off trying to take a play out of Kimber’s playbook and keep the build in similar stature to it. I’ll be happy with a rifle that comes out in that 8-10lb range so I figured if I aim for 7.5lbs I should be able to hit that mark and if I come out under that’s great. I’m a smaller guy, only weigh about 130lbs so an 8lb rifle for me is probably like a 12lb rifle for a lot of folks lol.

 

[ForgeValley]

I would also look into what reloading supplies you are able to find at the moment. I haven't looked specifically for 300 PRC bit have seen lots of people looking for brass and factory ammo. Could be wrong but sounds like they are hard to come by at the moment?

It's all hard to find right now. I have a 7 saum and 300 prc, can't find a thing for them right now. Luckily I have enough stock to last awhile.

 

[AZ_Spot&Stalk]

It's all hard to find right now. I have a 7 saum and 300 prc, can't find a thing for them right now. Luckily I have enough stock to last awhile.

I have still seen 28 nosler brass on the shelves along with a few others. 300 PRC and anything 6.5 are damn near impossible. I have a 7 saum and am glad I got everything for it when I did! Crazy times!

 

[AFGWS]

I'm kicking around something similar, but im going 7 SAUM with probably the Defiance Anti X medium action, XLR Magnesium 3.0 action and #4 profile Bartlein Carbon in 22 or 24in. My goal for this is very similar to yours, with lightweight hunting rifle being the most important thing for me.

 

[CBaker124]

I'm kicking around something similar, but im going 7 SAUM with probably the Defiance Anti X medium action, XLR Magnesium 3.0 action and #4 profile Bartlein Carbon in 22 or 24in. My goal for this is very similar to yours, with lightweight hunting rifle being the most important thing for me.

I think with a carbon barrel that weight range is very possible. The McMillan A3 sporter with edge tech should come in at 2.2 lbs. The Lone Peak Fuzion TI weighs 1.5lbs. HS precision bottom metal and DBM is .9lbs. And a fluted light palma barrel is probably going to come in at maybe 4lbs or slightly over. That’s just over 8.5lbs. I’ve been considering maybe going with a #4 or #5 contour to shave a little more weight and get closer to that 7.5lb target but I don’t want to give up too much rigidity on my barrel, especially on a 27 inch barrel. I think the flat skip/hammer flute will cut quite a bit of weight off but I think it will help hold its rigidity over more traditional fluting techniques.

 

[CBaker124]

 

[CBaker124]

 

[CBaker124]

 

[Hawk in WY]

Those seven-pound rifles are particularly hard to shoot in the backcountry without a scope, sling, bipod, and ammunition.

9.5 pounds is where I usually end up.

 

[CBaker124]

Those seven-pound rifles are particularly hard to shoot in the backcountry without a scope, sling, bipod, and ammunition.

9.5 pounds is where I usually end up.

I would imagine so. West Virginia is not Wyoming, unless you’re predator hunting we don’t have much use for bipods or a magazine capacity over 3 or 4 rounds. Our mountains aren’t as tall and are much closer together but they’re every bit as steep so you’ll either do a lot of hiking and shooting off hand or you find a nice spot to hunker down for the day that usually includes a good rest to shoot from hunting white tails around here. The problems you often run into hunting whitetails here is similar to what you might have hunting dull sheep, except you don’t get the opportunity to do much stalking because you’re hunting steep heavily wooded areas and deer will often hear you walking crunching leaves and be gone before you ever knew they were there or they’ll spot you from the other hill side a few hundred yards away before you spot them which is why we often rely on sound just as much as sight hunting in West Virginia. A lot of times you’ll hear the deer running before you see them. By the time you determine where the sound is coming from, spot them, and get your gun up you’re lucky to get one shot off before they’re up over the mountain, across the 3 feet of flat ground at the top, and down over the other side. Or they’ve darted out the ridge line and by the time you find them in your scope through all of the tree’s they’ve already started to make their way around the hill and over into the next hollow. More often than not you don’t have the time or the opportunity to place the crosshairs on them for a clean shot. It takes a keen eye and a swift hand to do so, so you either learn how to shoot quickly with accuracy off hand, or find a tree, a rock, or a log as fast as you can to get a rest off of which often involves shooting in unorthodox positions or you learn how to sit and be patient. Aside from a good piece of glass the only thing you really need on a good hunting rig is a sling but I’ve never needed much more than a simple piece of nylon to satisfy me in that department, no need to add anymore extra weight or buy something fancy that’s just going make bunch of noise because you can hear the echo of a pin drop through some of the hollows and anything nice is just going to get ripped up in the thick greenbriar and underbrush you’ll often find yourself in. That’s why I’m focusing on bare bones weight because I only need the bare minimum in the woods. I can always attach a bipod and switch to larger magazines when I’m shooting from the bench when the weight doesn’t matter as much.

 

[swampbuck]

I would really reconsider your cartridge choices. I don't know of anything in West Virginia that needs that kind of power. Just getting a standard 6.5 Creed will serve you better and get you closer to your weight goals and be much easier and less costly to shoot.

 

[XTREM HTR16]

OP, of the 3 you listed I’ve heard the most praise for Dallas Lane. The long range hunting crowd gives him high praise.

 

[CBaker124]

Here are a few smiths with short lead times, who've done excellent work for me lately. Kinport Peak in Idaho and Omega Precision in Wyo. Both turned around multiple rifles in a week's time as I had all components available, and they absolutely hammer. I did all the stock work myself, but their metal work was great. Very reasonable prices as well. Lapua 300 norma brass is available, you'll want lapua adg or peterson in every one those calibers listed. Most arnt anywhere to be found at the moment. I've have a 300norm imp, sold a 30 nosler, and am currently building a 7-300prc as I feel the 28N is just a lil too much of a good thing. Personally I like the 30N the best for what you're doing. Stick with an AntiX that's full nitride, or a bat vampire. The vampire long action is cut for a 4" wyatt's box so might as well consider the big boy 300rum as an option as well. I'm not a titanium fan these days. Ag composites arguably makes a lighter/better stock than mcmillan these days, and will inlet for the vampire, which I doubt mcmillan has yet.

I like your style Khuber, this is exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping to get. I love the AG Composites stock that’s on my Kimber Open Country so I’ve been back and forth on them, I just wish they had something that was a little closer to the design of the McMillan A3-Sporter. I like the BAT action but it’s last on my list because of similar reasons like you just stated. I like 300 RUM as well but I think the recoil and barrel life you’ll get out of it really isn’t worth it when there are more modern calibers available like the 300 PRC or the 30 Nosler that will arguably perform just as well without being as hard on a barrel or the shoulder. You’ve given me a lot to think about and made the decision making process even more difficult now lol. Why so much concern for the titanium action?

 

[CBaker124]

I would really reconsider your cartridge choices. I don't know of anything in West Virginia that needs that kind of power. Just getting a standard 6.5 Creed will serve you better and get you closer to your weight goals and be much easier and less costly to shoot.

I have a 6.5 creed in a Kimber 84M Open country, comes with a factory 24” heavy contour barrel with a Mauser style action and an AG composites carbon fiber stock. Great gun but it doesn’t put out the torque to be reliable enough to kill out past a couple hundred yards. This gun will also be used for hunting across the country and Canada which is why I’m going with a .30cal, it is going to be my all around rig like the .270 was to Jack O’Connor.

 

[Shootin Stuff]

MDT have just announced their new lightweight chassis, might be worth a look if you want to keep weight down.

 

[CBaker124]

A 300 rum has better barrel life than the 28 nosler. If the a3 sporter look is your desire, look at the Mesa Precision altitude stock, it's made by AG. I have one, it's like a game hunter minus the Monte Carlo and a higher comb. Very comfortable. I'm just a straight comb guy anymore. It's very light at 26oz for rem700 la inlet.

Thanks Khuber, I like a higher comb which is why I’m chasing that style of stock. I just took a look at them and that might be the route I end up going, it’s definitely the lightest option by far and I agree AG does make a good quality product.

 

[DJL2]

I'm pretty sure I read a post from LRI at one point that said steel will beat CF for weight every time...might wanna chase that down, or get a hold of him here. Looking at Tikka barrels from Proof doesn't put the lie to that. 2 lbs 14 ounces for the CF, 2 lbs 9 ounces for the steel (7mm RM). You can always spec a thicker steel contour and flute the shit out of it (and LRI as a calculator for that)...but, that gives you an idea of the effective contour you need to run, whether a straight taper or heavily fluted.

I've got a M70 long action with a 24" Bartelin CF, CF McMillan Game Scout, plain old hinged floor plate, Leupold Backcountry rings/mounts, and a 24 ounce optic. Oh, and a sling. Now, if I drop 2-2.5 lbs (not sure how much the sling weighs, so guessing) off the rifle's total weight of 9.9 lbs I would be pretty close to you 7.5 lb target.

I say that just to make note of the fact that you're gonna have a rough time getting there with a 27" tube AND a break. You're not gonna get there at all running a Light Palma contour I don't imagine - plenty of barrel weight calculators out there. My Bartlein is a little heavier than either of the Proof options above...which might just give them parity at 27" versus my 24".

I also, for sure, wouldn't run a stock with a raised or Monte Carlo style cheek piece on a rifle that's gonna kick as hard as this one...wouldn't even do it on my -06 above. Straight comb or reverse comb if you wanna shoot it "old school" (and make weight) would be my recommendation. Plenty of recoil calculators out there too...for a 9.5 all up weight, 15 fps and 35 ft-lbf. Shootable? Absolutely...but, it's gonna get your attention.

 

[CBaker124]

I'm pretty sure I read a post from LRI at one point that said steel will beat CF for weight every time...might wanna chase that down, or get a hold of him here. Looking at Tikka barrels from Proof doesn't put the lie to that. 2 lbs 14 ounces for the CF, 2 lbs 9 ounces for the steel (7mm RM). You can always spec a thicker steel contour and flute the shit out of it (and LRI as a calculator for that)...but, that gives you an idea of the effective contour you need to run, whether a straight taper or heavily fluted.

I've got a M70 long action with a 24" Bartelin CF, CF McMillan Game Scout, plain old hinged floor plate, Leupold Backcountry rings/mounts, and a 24 ounce optic. Oh, and a sling. Now, if I drop 2-2.5 lbs (not sure how much the sling weighs, so guessing) off the rifle's total weight of 9.9 lbs I would be pretty close to you 7.5 lb target.

I say that just to make note of the fact that you're gonna have a rough time getting there with a 27" tube AND a break. You're not gonna get there at all running a Light Palma contour I don't imagine - plenty of barrel weight calculators out there. My Bartlein is a little heavier than either of the Proof options above...which might just give them parity at 27" versus my 24".

I also, for sure, wouldn't run a stock with a raised or Monte Carlo style cheek piece on a rifle that's gonna kick as hard as this one...wouldn't even do it on my -06 above. Straight comb or reverse comb if you wanna shoot it "old school" (and make weight) would be my recommendation. Plenty of recoil calculators out there too...for a 9.5 all up weight, 15 fps and 35 ft-lbf. Shootable? Absolutely...but, it's gonna get your attention.

Thanks for the reply DJ, I definitely plan on sticking with a stainless steel barrel and having it fluted. I have a Tikka T3X Stainless Hunter in 7 Mag that’s in stock form with a 23” fluted barrel and its extremely light, I’m not sure on the exact weight but I’d say it comes in somewhere around 5lbs or maybe even a little lighter bare bones. It’s incredible how light they were able to manufacture it and it shoots great but it definitely has some drawbacks with the recoil. I think a light palma with some fluting will be sufficient for this build, 7.5lbs is just something I’m aiming for to make sure I can come in as light as possible without giving up too much on the barrel. 8-8.5lbs will satisfy me but if I can come in under that’s great. I don’t plan on running the brake in the field which is why I have opted for the 27” barrel, I know it won’t make a huge difference but it should help reduce some of the effects of the recoil. I think a lot of guys just build something based off of what’s worked well for others and then wind up with something they’re not satisfied with so I plan on taking my time and gathering as much information as I possibly can so I end up with something as close as possible to what I had hoped to build which is why I started the thread. Can’t ever have too much advice or hear too many opinions.

 

[CBaker124]

Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone who has replied and taken the time to share their knowledge with me, I really appreciate it. It’s definitely given me a lot more to think about now and I’m gladly going to take it all into consideration. It seems like there a lot of guys out there trying to do similar builds and moving in the direction of an all purpose build these days. Hopefully we can keep this thread alive and fill it with some solid feedback that might help out others in their endeavors as well.

 

[DJL2]

Tracking all...definitely doable, just throwing out some food for thought. One of my favorite references for the realm of the possible:

Havak Pro Hunter PH2

With its newly designed, lightweight carbon composite stock and hand-bedded barreled action, this rifle is able to handle mother nature's extreme conditions providing the hunter with repeatable accuracy and Seekins' unparalleled reliability. Calibers:

seekinsprecision.com

I'm sure someone knows what contour barrel they use... 7.2 lbs @ 26" would have you right where you wanna be at 27"

My Tikka T3x was something like 6.5 lbs and was 7.5 lbs all up when I did my initial testing with a very small/light optic. It's right around 8.5 lbs now with a stabilized and bedded stock and a heftier (another 24 ounce) optic. I know the 7mm RM isn't the same class as the 28 Nos or the 300 PRC, but it's not brutal to shoot or carry.

 

[Franko]

I just went through the same process you are going through. I chose the Anti-X as it's the lightest of the bunch and I have heard nothing but good things about Defiance's actions (FYI their lead time is 5 months; add another month or so with nitriding). I went with the XLR Element folding chassis because I am going with a 26 inch barrel and a brake and wanted the ability to fold up what is going to be a rather long rifle. You should also check out PVA's ultralight jetblast brake. It's very light and self timing. I went with a Bartlein #4 carbon fiber barrel; it's not the lightest, but I trust their barrels enough to accept the extra weight.

Good luck!

 

[CBaker124]

Khuber, my grandfather was a WWII vet and an excellent marksman, he was all about volunteering and developed one of the first handicap scouting programs for the Boy Scouts of America. One of the things he was most well known for was taking wounded vets and handicapped Boy Scouts to the rifle range. He was big on ethical hunting practices and that’s something he and my father preached to me from a very young age, accuracy and ethnicity. Sadly that’s something that gets over looked pretty often and there’s more to it than just distance to a target. A lot of what I’ve been taught to take into consideration is the capability of the rifle at hand and the confidence you have in that rifle as well as the sorrounding terrain, conditions, and what you’re shooting at. I am confident enough to take shots out to 400 or 500 yards with most of the magnum and .30 cal rifles I grew up hunting with but depending on the circumstances I’ll pass on a lot of those shots as well if I think a better shot can be made. The main reason behind the 27” barrel is that I’d like to be able to take the rifle out on the farm to my range and have the ability to squeeze every little bit out of it that I can and see just how far I can push myself with a rifle set up like this. I don’t think anyone here can deny how good it feels to ring a gong out past a grand and that’s something I want to try to incorporate into this build is the ability to have a little fun with it as well as keeping it practical for hunting.

 

[DJL2]

Yeah, you get a hat tip from me for building "enough gun." Not that random guy number 299123 on the internet matters, of course.

 

[CBaker124]

Yeah, you get a hat tip from me for building "enough gun." Not that random guy number 299123 on the internet matters, of course.

DJ, you get criticized on these types of forums more often than not when you throw out an idea and you’re asking for advice and opinions on that idea so I appreciate the nod. The simple fact that someone else agrees brings more value to that idea and means it’s worth trying to go after rather than just tossing the whole idea out the window just because someone else says you’re pissing in the wind.

 

[chevy_man]

My personal preference, nothing more.

Defiance anti (guaranteed headspace, no machining necessary) There are getting to be a few prefits available. More should be on the way as they become more popular. I was just quoted a 24 week wait so they must be busy up there.
24" McGowan stainless, #1 or #2 in a 280AI (not quite a 7rm, but close enough and brass is easy)
Trigger is whatever you like
Whatever carbon fiber stock you can find that fits
ADL will cut a few ounces

Talley lightweight rings (no rail, they have pinned ones available from Defiance)

Lightest weight smallest scope you can get away with. VX3i 2.5-10x40 was only 12oz. That will be a huge weight savings over the 20-30oz scopes that most use.

 

[CBaker124]

My personal preference, nothing more.

Defiance anti (guaranteed headspace, no machining necessary) There are getting to be a few prefits available. More should be on the way as they become more popular. I was just quoted a 24 week wait so they must be busy up there.
24" McGowan stainless, #1 or #2 in a 280AI (not quite a 7rm, but close enough and brass is easy)
Trigger is whatever you like
Whatever carbon fiber stock you can find that fits
ADL will cut a few ounces

Talley lightweight rings (no rail, they have pinned ones available from Defiance)

Lightest weight smallest scope you can get away with. VX3i 2.5-10x40 was only 12oz. That will be a huge weight savings over the 20-30oz scopes that most use.

Chevy Man, what do you know about McGowen? I know they were a prominent barrel manufacturer back in the day and they’ve changed ownership and are trying to rebuild that reputation. I’ve heard good and bad things. I like them for the options they offer on a custom barrel order, seems like they’ll make you just about anything you want so I figured I would give them a shot and if the barrel doesn’t work out I can always give someone else a try later down the road.

 

[XTREM HTR16]

My pile of parts arrived at the shop of @Shooter*71 yesterday.
Ruckus GA hunter nitrided
Manners EH2 elite tac moola
Bartlein CFW #4 20" 308 10 twist
APA RTG dbm
TT primary

Building my first .308, and I know Shaen will knock it out of the park!

 

[DJL2]

Disregard the "tactical" footwear...that's kilos not pounds. I lied...with the sling it's 10.04 instead of 9.9...
I suppose I could take off that pic rail or go with a lighter sling, or run a light/smaller optic...definitely at least another half pound to be saved here if I wanted to. I've got no qualms about the efficacy of .30-06 from a 24" bbl, though, so at least there's that.

 

[CBaker124]

My pile of parts arrived at the shop of @Shooter*71 yesterday.
Ruckus GA hunter nitrided
Manners EH2 elite tac moola
Bartlein CFW #4 20" 308 10 twist
APA RTG dbm
TT primary

Building my first .308, and I know Shaen will knock it out of the park!

That’s going to be a solid build, post some pics when you get it back!

 

[CBaker124]

I hunt on my Dad's farm in West Virginia most years with this. 9.5lbs all in. 22" 6 Creed thou I'd like to get a 20" 6.5 Creed or 7-08 carbon barrel for it.

HS Precision R700 Sendero take-off stock
Bighorn Origin
HS Precision DBM
22" Sendero Lite in 6 Creed
Jewell trigger
Hawkins Hybrid LR rings
March F1 3x24
Thunderbeast Ultra 5

View attachment 7564498

In respect to your question about McGowan barrels, I have several. They all shoot very well. And I have a couple of Carbon Six barrels (made using McGowan steel blanks). They also shoot very well.

Reubenski, thanks for the intel on the McGowen stuff I really appreciate it. That’s a nice setup, what’s the HS Precision bottom metal and DBM like?

 

[CBaker124]

Disregard the "tactical" footwear...that's kilos not pounds. I lied...with the sling it's 10.04 instead of 9.9...
I suppose I could take off that pic rail or go with a lighter sling, or run a light/smaller optic...definitely at least another half pound to be saved here if I wanted to. I've got no qualms about the efficacy of .30-06 from a 24" bbl, though, so at least there's that.

View attachment 7564506

Nice setup DJ. To much dismay, I may consider going with a carbon barrel if I absolutely have to lol. What is it like shouldering that rig, does it feel heavier or lighter? That’s one thing I am a little concerned with is ending up with something that feels a lot heavier than what it actually is, obviously my goal is to be the exact opposite lol.

 

[DJL2]

I think the CF moves the barrel (and rifle) center of mass back towards the shooter a little bit - so, in that sense it carries like a lighter profile barrel than it is (that's a #13...a #4 would save a few ounces too) and "swings" easier. I can take another photo with the rifle on it's balance point if I remember...just to give you an idea.

I like the stock design a lot - it feels really natural in the hand, and I think that's got a lot to do with how the rifle carries. The LOP on the stock is 12.5" because I've got T-Rex arms. Some people would call that a kid's stock, heh.

The rifle started life as a Super Grade Maple...ultimately, the weight of the rifle hasn't changed much, just a little lighter, and it carries about the same...it's just much nicer to shoot now and more accurate.

I learned over lunch that I'm not setup for gun glamour shots...balance point is right at the front action screw or thereabouts. Obviously, a longer stock or a full magazine would move it aft slightly.

 

[CBaker124]

I think the CF moves the barrel (and rifle) center of mass back towards the shooter a little bit - so, in that sense it carries like a lighter profile barrel than it is (that's a #13...a #4 would save a few ounces too) and "swings" easier. I can take another photo with the rifle on it's balance point if I remember...just to give you an idea.

I like the stock design a lot - it feels really natural in the hand, and I think that's got a lot to do with how the rifle carries. The LOP on the stock is 12.5" because I've got T-Rex arms. Some people would call that a kid's stock, heh.

The rifle started life as a Super Grade Maple...ultimately, the weight of the rifle hasn't changed much, just a little lighter, and it carries about the same...it's just much nicer to shoot now and more accurate.

I learned over lunch that I'm not setup for gun glamour shots...balance point is right at the front action screw or thereabouts. Obviously, a longer stock or a full magazine would move it aft slightly.

No worries DJ, for some reason I’ve always found it difficult to get a good photo of a rifle with a phone, it’s like somehow the picture just never comes out the way you were hoping for lol. I think that’s something I’m probably going to have to do too is go with a smaller length of pull. I’m pretty much in the same boat, my torso is definitely not equal to my leg height and I don’t know what the hell happened to my wingspan but it definitely doesn’t equivilate to my height lol. I’ve never had a custom stock made for myself, I may sound like an idiot but what is the proper way to measure or figure out what your length of pull should be?

 

[DJL2]

No worries DJ, for some reason I’ve always found it difficult to get a good photo of a rifle with a phone, it’s like somehow the picture just never comes out the way you were hoping for lol. I think that’s something I’m probably going to have to do too is go with a smaller length of pull. I’m pretty much in the same boat, my torso is definitely not equal to my leg height and I don’t know what the hell happened to my wingspan but it definitely doesn’t equivilate to my height lol. I’ve never had a custom stock made for myself, I may sound like an idiot but what is the proper way to measure or figure out what your length of pull should be?

@lowlight has a few videos that address this. The classic estimate technique was to measure from the crook of your elbow to the tip of your trigger finger. For "positional" shooting, you can estimate by measuring the the first digit of your trigger finger.

You can check that out here.
- all the way back from 2013!

He's got a more recent video hanging out here on the Hide too. Ultimately, getting behind different LOP is hugely helpful. I've got a Swiss K31, for example, that has a quite short LOP but works very well for me. The M1 Garand comes in around 13.125" IIRC. Lots of factory rifles come at 13.5 or 13.75. I went to a KRG Bravo butt stock for my W-3 chassis for the shorter LOP and more traditional ergos.

For me, it's easy to tell when the LOP is too long - I get stretched out on the rifle. I can't comfortably reach the forearm of the stock to grip in the prone, I have to angle my body significantly, roll my head over, etc. All those contortions don't do much for my shooting.

 

[DJL2]

Is it perfect? Probably not. Is it a damn sight better at 12.5 than 13.75? Hell yeah.

 

[CBaker124]

Thanks guys, I’m going give those a try and pull a few of the old pepper blasters out of the closet this evening and see just how close or far off I really am. Out of everything that I think the most comfortable rifle I’ve got is a Ruger model 77 Mark II compact .243 in walnut. My dad bought it for me as my first rifle. That was clear back in 2001 or something like that. I think it was the first year Ruger made the M77 Mark II in a compact. Seemed like everyone was coming out with all these new featherweights and compacts that year. I still hunt with that rifle today quite a bit because it’s so nice to carry and so comfortable to shoot.

 

[chevy_man]

Chevy Man, what do you know about McGowen? I know they were a prominent barrel manufacturer back in the day and they’ve changed ownership and are trying to rebuild that reputation. I’ve heard good and bad things. I like them for the options they offer on a custom barrel order, seems like they’ll make you just about anything you want so I figured I would give them a shot and if the barrel doesn’t work out I can always give someone else a try later down the road.

They were the ones doing proof blanks when their carbon barrels took off (I believe they've since brought them in house). They still do carbon six blanks.


I have a few, my Dad has 6, and every customer that comes into the gun store he points to them.

They may not be the absolute best, but they're plenty good enough. I've yet to see one that wasn't a 1moa gun. My 25-06 I simply chose the load with the lowest SD, since every group was .4-.6". It didn't seem to care unless I hit a scatter node with barrel whip that was tossing them high and low. That was a rem Sporter taper with a 15oz can hanging off it.

 

[CBaker124]

They were the ones doing proof blanks when their carbon barrels took off (I believe they've since brought them in house). They still do carbon six blanks.


I have a few, my Dad has 6, and every customer that comes into the gun store he points to them.

They may not be the absolute best, but they're plenty good enough. I've yet to see one that wasn't a 1moa gun. My 25-06 I simply chose the load with the lowest SD, since every group was .4-.6". It didn't seem to care unless I hit a scatter node with barrel whip that was tossing them high and low. That was a rem Sporter taper with a 15oz can hanging off it.

I knew they did carbon six’s blanks but I did not know they had originally done them for proof. I would be plenty satisfied with sub 1moa. If I would happen to go carbon I may end up giving Wolfpack Armory a shot, they’re only 3-4 miles down the road from me and they’re starting a new mountain rifle platform. They come standard with a defiance action and their carbon barrel. The 6.5 creed and .308 are both expected to come in at 5.5lbs. I’m not sure what stock they’re running but that is extreme light weight.

 

[CBaker124]

 

[carlm338]

I will second (or third, or fourth?) the recommendation to talk to Chad Dixon at LRI for a custom build (IMHO). I know that's what I would do if I were in your shoes...

 

[Absoluterock]

I'm kicking around something similar, but im going 7 SAUM with probably the Defiance Anti X medium action, XLR Magnesium 3.0 action and #4 profile Bartlein Carbon in 22 or 24in. My goal for this is very similar to yours, with lightweight hunting rifle being the most important thing for me.

Just built something very similar. No regrets on the Anti or the 7 saum...still fitting the magazine though...

 

[HousePlant]

300 PRC if you're going to do a non-300 Win Mag magnum 30 caliber. You won't find 300 Norma ammo anywhere. Lucky to find 300 PRC even in the best of times. If you're going to be bench shooting yet want to hunt up to some pretty big stuff, get a 6.5 PRC. Easier on the shooter, not so much on the animal you intend to harvest. Anywho... ain't nothing wrong with buying a Tikka Ultralite and being done for $800. Haha.

 

[CBaker124]

You want a big boomer magnum on a 6# bare rifle? Man.......get behind one a shoot it a bit before you decide to go that route. Uber light rifles are difficult to shoot well. They have to have absolutely the best posture, very consistent loading and cheek pressure, or beyond 700y groups get erratic. I had a 7.5# all up 6.5 saum and even on a bipod prone and 20mph winds the gun dances in the wind. I highly suggest targeting 9# all up ready to hunt. This is still light and packable yet stable for longer range shooting. I have a 7# all up 270 still, but everything else is 8.5-12# my prs rifle is 26#. Talk to some the smith's like Dallas Lane, Alex Wheeler, Ryan Pierce, Chad Dixon, Travis @ Rbors. Ask them about a target wight for a hunting gun that will double duty as long range steel hammer. You'll get heavier answers vs lighter.

Khuber, I don’t think I’m going to get 7.5lbs by the time it’s all said and done but that’s what I’m going to aim for so I for sure come in at 8 or 8-1/2lbs. I’m not really worried about the weight versus recoil ratio if I do end up at 7.5lbs, I can always work out the bugs on that later with a few different things if I don’t like it. My go to rifle for the past 10 years has been a Ruger M77 300 win mag in the zytel/skeleton stock. My dad had it rebarreled, fluted, threaded, and threw a brake on it years ago, it’s just a little over 7.5lbs. Kicks like a mule but you put a snuff can out anywhere past 700 yards and I’ll show ya just how accurate a rifle of that weight and caliber can be. It may just be years of shooting and hunting with that gun, but I hardly shoot much better with anything else.