OVER-Reaming Crimp? Is it Possible?

punkwood2k

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 19, 2013
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Green Valley Ranch, CO
I just worked through my 2nd reload of some Lake City Once-Fired Brass (so a total of 3 loading/firing sequences). When I first got the once-fired brass, I used the Lyman hand tool to ream the crimp out.. It was a LOT more work than I anticipated, lol.

Anyways, on some of my moderately high loads (not pushing the limits though), I get a very slight soot mark around the primer pocket, and just enough to finger-wipe off the bolt face.. Is it possible that I OVER-reamed the crimp out, thus making it prematurely loose?

Another possibility I think I might have done to myself, is that after realizing how much work it was to ream a couple hundred primer crimps, I set it up to do with my cordless drill. While it made the job much easier, I think that a slight wobble in my cordless drill head couldve caused too much removal of the primer pocket? Your professional opintions please?

Also, would it be safe to continue using these shells, as long as there doesnt seem to be any damage to the Bolt Face?
 
Ditch the drill and get a dillon super swage if you are doing lots of brass. Well worth the cost, trust me. It will save you lots of time and hand pain.

Doubtful you removed too much crimp, but if you post a pic that might help.
 
What cartridge are you working with? If military 223 or 308 you may need to remove the excess brass that is used to "crimp" the primer in the case. Commercial brass will not have the crimp. What specifically are you using?
 
What cartridge are you working with? If military 223 or 308 you may need to remove the excess brass that is used to "crimp" the primer in the case. Commercial brass will not have the crimp. What specifically are you using?

He said Lake City, most likely 223. I have seen plenty of federal 9mm brass that had crimps.
 
This is why I don't use a reamer in the primer pocket... it takes very little misalignment (side loading) of the reamer to open up the diameter of the pocket.

I remove the crimp with a chamfering tool. A little chamfer makes it easier to prime the case, too. Since primers have a radius where the diameter of the cup meets the bottom of the cup, a small chamfer on the pocket does not decrease the amount of surface area gripping the primer and does not weaken the pocket either.

Joe
 
Usually those tools bottom out before you remove to much brass, but like scudzuki said if you are off your alignment just a little you can cut off center and cause what you saw.

This is why I like prep on my 1050.
 
This is why I don't use a reamer in the primer pocket... it takes very little misalignment (side loading) of the reamer to open up the diameter of the pocket.

What tool opens up the primer pocket? Cuz all the tools I've seen don't have any cutting surfaces on the side. They either cut the depth or they champher away the crimp. None work the diameter of the primer pocket.

The reason his pockets are leaking is because the cases are done. They have expanded beyond the norm, prolly due to over pressure, and need to be discarded.
 
What tool opens up the primer pocket? Cuz all the tools I've seen don't have any cutting surfaces on the side. They either cut the depth or they champher away the crimp. None work the diameter of the primer pocket.

The reason his pockets are leaking is because the cases are done. They have expanded beyond the norm, prolly due to over pressure, and need to be discarded.

Well, for one, the tool I have in my shop that came with the lot of reloading supplies I bought off the estate of a deceased shooter. I took one look at it when I was inventorying what I bought and tossed it in the curio bin.
If it does not have flutes on the side, it's not a reamer, although that's what the OP said he used.
A reamer by definition is a tool that is used to increase the inside diameter of an existing hole.
A tool that creates or increases the depth of a flat bottomed bore is a counterbore or spot facing tool.
As a former toolmaker I read "reamer" and assumed that's what the OP was really talking about.

Joe
 
Well, for one, the tool I have in my shop that came with the lot of reloading supplies I bought off the estate of a deceased shooter. I took one look at it when I was inventorying what I bought and tossed it in the curio bin.
If it does not have flutes on the side, it's not a reamer, although that's what the OP said he used.
A reamer by definition is a tool that is used to increase the inside diameter of an existing hole.
A tool that creates or increases the depth of a flat bottomed bore is a counterbore or spot facing tool.
As a former toolmaker I read "reamer" and assumed that's what the OP was really talking about.

Joe

Yes, a REAMER is what I am talking about. Its a tool that removes the crimp by cutting away the crimped brass, thus enlarging the primer pocket back to stock diameter... It does have cutting flutes on the sides

No, the brass has not been over pressured, or overworked in any other way.. I went back to double check my power drill that I used, and it does have a slight wobble to the chuck head.. Pretty sure thats what my problem is.... that wobble would ream the primer pocket larger than the tool intends due to the slight wobble. Evidently, even that little of a wobble in the chuck head is enough to make a difference in the primer fit.. :-(
 
Yes, a REAMER is what I am talking about. Its a tool that removes the crimp by cutting away the crimped brass, thus enlarging the primer pocket back to stock diameter... It does have cutting flutes on the sides

No, the brass has not been over pressured, or overworked in any other way.. I went back to double check my power drill that I used, and it does have a slight wobble to the chuck head.. Pretty sure thats what my problem is.... that wobble would ream the primer pocket larger than the tool intends due to the slight wobble. Evidently, even that little of a wobble in the chuck head is enough to make a difference in the primer fit.. :-(

That's what I thought you were saying.
Just ignore the background noise.
The difference between a tight and a loose primer pocket is on the order of a few thousandths of an inch, so running the reamer in a chuck with even a tiny bit of runout would do it.

Joe