Gunsmithing painting firearms

[Shootinsurveyor]

I have to paint 2 saigas this weekend. I bought some self etching primer to see how that would work with Alumahyde. Don't know much about the SE primer. Any tips or warnings. Am I just better off degreasing and painting with no primer?

Thanks

 

[Force_Multiplier]

Re: painting firearms

self etching primer will then become the weak link under the aluma hyde... and that's providing that they're even chemically compatable

 

[GasLight]

Re: painting firearms

best is if you can blast with aluminum oxide, then degrease WELL, and then spray. That is the best prep for any kind of paint, how well it holds up on that kind of surface will depend on the product itself.. alumahyde will hold up better than krylon

 

[wallace11bravo]

Re: painting firearms

I second gaslight's reccomendation. I haven't used alumahyde, mostly duracoat, but with all paint the key is adherence to the original surface. Blast with alum ox, degrease, heat part to ensure degreasing was good, and spray.

I don't know jack about self etching primers, but I would venture that Multipliers advice is sound. It is akin to putting alumahyde over krylon, the alumahyde can only be as resilient as what is underneath it.

 

[mattr25]

Re: painting firearms

I would go with just the Alumahyde. If you plan on coating more guns in the future just get a cheap HVLP gun and use duracoat. Its pretty easy to apply and is durable. The key to any of the coatings from paint to cerakote is prep. Make sure you degrease thoroughly. I use brake cleaner just make sure it dries with no residue.

 

[gvanhyning]

Re: painting firearms

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GasLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">best is if you can blast with aluminum oxide, then degrease WELL, and then spray. That is the best prep for any kind of paint, how well it holds up on that kind of surface will depend on the product itself.. alumahyde will hold up better than krylon </div></div>
If you're going to blast with aluminum oxide, you should degrease first so you don't contaminate the blast media with oil/grease.

 

[81Z4ME]

Re: painting firearms

I haven't tried any of the professional grade paints.

For quick/easy (to put on or take off) camo jobs I use krylon.

For a finish I want to last I'll use ceramic header flat black paint and bake it per the instructions. I've used it on rifle steel and magazines and it holds up great, sort of like a heavy parkerizing.

 

[joemusso]

Re: painting firearms

Aluma-Hyde has it's own etch prime. they sell a kit with both paint and etch prime for 17.99

self etch primer is self explanatory it chemically bonds it's self to raw metal.

you should have no worries about anything sticking to it that is what it is made for.

the only bad thing it creates more mills of material on the item you are painting.

i would use dura coat it contains self etch components of it's own.

the key is don't buy cheep etch prime use automotive grade etch prime. if you chose to go that way.


joe

 

[at4rxj]

Re: painting firearms

I've used Alumahyde II with great results. Blast if you can, if not lightly sand. At this point I put on rubber gloves and don't handle it again without them until it's finished. Degrease very well, then degrease again. I then use a heat gun to warm the part/gun. Shake the can very well... the longer the better... like 5 minutes. It helps if the paint is warm as well, but most importantly keep the part warm before you spray it. I spray a light coat, hit it with the heat gun again, then let it cure for 3 days or so. I then do at least one more, if not two more coats. Heat, spray, heat, let cure.

If you do multiple colors/layers, consider a clear coat over it.

.

 

[LRI]

Re: painting firearms

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GasLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">best is if you can blast with aluminum oxide, then degrease WELL, and then spray. That is the best prep for any kind of paint, how well it holds up on that kind of surface will depend on the product itself.. alumahyde will hold up better than krylon </div></div>


Yes! Sorta! Degrease, then blast! Then flash it again with degreasing agent. This way you don't contaminate your abrasive media with funk that'll get onto the next job.