Rifle Scopes Parallax adjustment question

Hedge

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Minuteman
Jun 28, 2011
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Baldwin, ND, USA
I'm new to parallax adjustable scopes, so give me a break on my ignorance.

When I adjust for zero movement on the horizontal crosshair, I still get movement on the vertical. It takes some fine tweaking to zero them both out. Is this normal or is there an alignment problem in the optics?
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

Some parallax adjustments are more sensitive than others. What optic? Are you sure it isn't you contacting the weapon that is causing the movement, even ever so slightly?
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

It's a Millet 6-26x 50. No weapon contact. To be clear, the movement I refer to is the reticle position relative to the target as I move my eye. If I adjust the parallax knob until the horizontal cross hair remains fixed relative to the target, the vertical cross hair isn't always fixed unless I fine tweak it.

I would think that once one cross hair is fixed, the other would be also.
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Redmanss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some parallax adjustments are more sensitive than others. What optic? Are you sure it isn't you contacting the weapon that is causing the movement, even ever so slightly? </div></div>

What he said.

It could possibly be a symptom of an inexpensive optic.

41
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

Thanks, guys.
I'm thinking it's the optics, too. Just wanted to be sure I had the concept right...both cross hairs should "lock in" at the same time if they're on the same plane. Since the reticle is etched, the problem must be an off-center optical component alignment.
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

Just came across the procedure for setting the diopter adjustment. I was doing it wrong. Once I set it correctly, I no longer have the parallax problem I described.

What I was doing was to adjust the diopter while looking at the target. I should have been looking at the sky or a blank wall. Made a big difference in how far I had to turn the adjustment, too.

Thanks to those who replied.
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

Roger that.
But it was screwing up how I perceived the reticle parallax. All I know is that once I set the correct focus on the reticle, I could then adjust the parallax knob and not get the problem I first described.
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

I just had an interesting thought that has now turned into a question. As pointed out here by the person asking the question, I have always focused my reticle by looking at a wall or the sky (and I have been told to look away then look quickly at the reticle because you eye will try to focus on it independent of the diopter setting). So, that is the normal approach. However, what if I just shut the objective lens cover and turn on the reticle light (yes, mine is illuminated). I tried it and it turns out that the adjustment is just about where it was to start with but there is some ghosting. Does anyone know if that means that I am focusing on a part of the reticle that is lighted but that might be slightly different from the part of the reticle that is not lighted?
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lightwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just had an interesting thought that has now turned into a question. As pointed out here by the person asking the question, I have always focused my reticle by looking at a wall or the sky (and I have been told to look away then look quickly at the reticle because you eye will try to focus on it independent of the diopter setting). So, that is the normal approach.</div></div>
The <span style="font-style: italic">"normal approach"</span>, as you call it - IS THE ONE AND ONLY CORRECT / PROPER procedure for focusing the reticle (adjusting the Diopter). A blank wall works OK, but focusing the reticle against a clear sky, preferably a well lit one, is best. Click <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #FF0000">HERE</span></span></span> for a comprehensive post I wrote that details everything from correctly positioning and mounting a scope (which must be done before you can properly adjust the scope), to leveling the scope, focusing the reticle, and then adjusting for parallax (adjustable Parallax models only).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lightwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">However, what if I just shut the objective lens cover and turn on the reticle light (yes, mine is illuminated).</div></div>
The Diopter cannot be correctly adjusted while the reticle is illuminated. The short reason for this is that no matter how much or how little ambient light there is or what the illumination intensity is set to, the reticle WILL NEVER appear as sharp with the illumination on as it will when the illumination is off and you are looking at a black reticle against a lighter background, preferably the sky. An illuminated reticle can appear faint (and therefore not as sharp as a black, non-illuminated reticle), or have a bit of "bloom" (again, not as sharp as a black, non-illuminated reticle) unless the illumination setting is exactly perfct for the prevailing lighting conditions. And even then, the human eye just doesn't see as well in dim light as it does in moderate and bright light.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lightwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I tried it and it turns out that the adjustment is just about where it was to start with but there is some ghosting. Does anyone know if that means that I am focusing on a part of the reticle that is lighted but that might be slightly different from the part of the reticle that is not lighted? </div></div>
As I mentioned above, flare/bloom or ghosting can occur if the reticle illumination intensity is turned-up too high for the lightning conditions. However, you may also get ghosting - or possibly refraction - if your eye is out of alignment with the reticle. Remember that reticles are etched glass these days, so if your eye isn't squarely behind the reticle with the illumination turned "On" "ghosting" will be very evident due to parallax.


Keith
 
Re: Parallax adjustment question

I returned my Millet 4-16 the next day due to a number of reasons, but not being able to get the parallax to be perfect was one of the reasons. There was either a small movement in the vertical direction, or the horizontal direction