What are people paying to have their rifles parkerized? Just picked up a 700BDL in 338WM and am thinking of getting it done.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Gunsmithing Parkerizing
- Thread starter ykrvak
- Start date
Re: Parkerizing
yup.....
and you know something....parking a gun SHOULD be a prelude to some other kind of finnish that will really be durable.......of course what we are really talking about is some sort of coating for a tool.....
yup.....
and you know something....parking a gun SHOULD be a prelude to some other kind of finnish that will really be durable.......of course what we are really talking about is some sort of coating for a tool.....
Re: Parkerizing
I'm a little leery of googleing "tool coatings" I'm not sure my delicate sensibilities can handle the results.
I wasn't aware (obviously) that it required additional finishing. Could you give me an example of what has worked for you. Thanks for the info Boltripper.
I'm a little leery of googleing "tool coatings" I'm not sure my delicate sensibilities can handle the results.
Re: Parkerizing
I think what he means is that some firearm coatings begin with a base of parkerizing - such as Birdsong's Black-T. The parkerizing chemically bonds with the steel of the firearm and the coating then cures to the parkerizing.
There are two basic parks; Zinc phosphate which when cured with Cosmoline will give the greenish color of many vintage WWII weapons, and manganese phosphate which cures to a deep charcoal grey/black.
I am partial to the zinc, but I am a retro kinda guy.
I think what he means is that some firearm coatings begin with a base of parkerizing - such as Birdsong's Black-T. The parkerizing chemically bonds with the steel of the firearm and the coating then cures to the parkerizing.
There are two basic parks; Zinc phosphate which when cured with Cosmoline will give the greenish color of many vintage WWII weapons, and manganese phosphate which cures to a deep charcoal grey/black.
I am partial to the zinc, but I am a retro kinda guy.
Re: Parkerizing
well...parkerizing done correctly .....one must bead blast the metal first...then the heat bath to bring things up to temperature...then the acid bath, next the wash , followed by the oil cooldown.....what you then have is a beautiful base for some other paint or otherwisw impervious coating to be applied.
remember the military did parking because it was a cheap way of controling corrosion on otherwise exposed metal....but it will still rust....one must keep at it with the application of some oil or some other fancy stuff to bring the oxide finish back
well...parkerizing done correctly .....one must bead blast the metal first...then the heat bath to bring things up to temperature...then the acid bath, next the wash , followed by the oil cooldown.....what you then have is a beautiful base for some other paint or otherwisw impervious coating to be applied.
remember the military did parking because it was a cheap way of controling corrosion on otherwise exposed metal....but it will still rust....one must keep at it with the application of some oil or some other fancy stuff to bring the oxide finish back
Re: Parkerizing
Would you say it is more durable and corrosion resistant than straight blueing? Is the maintenance any higher than the blueing? I generally stay with stainless when possible because it's obviously so much more forgiving during long term exposure. I guess what I'm asking now is, is it even worth screwing with?
thanks.
Would you say it is more durable and corrosion resistant than straight blueing? Is the maintenance any higher than the blueing? I generally stay with stainless when possible because it's obviously so much more forgiving during long term exposure. I guess what I'm asking now is, is it even worth screwing with?
thanks.
Re: Parkerizing
sure....stainless rusts also.....
i like parkerizing....you can get it all schmootz'd up and get pick up truck rash and with a wipe down of a oil damp rag....your all set for prom night.
sure....stainless rusts also.....
i like parkerizing....you can get it all schmootz'd up and get pick up truck rash and with a wipe down of a oil damp rag....your all set for prom night.
Re: Parkerizing
Alright, so it sounds like it's worth getting done. So, back to the original question "What are people paying (in general) to have this done?" I don't have access to bead blasting ect... out where I live and will have a 30 mile trip by snomachine to get it on an airplane out of here. Sorry if this annoying and tedious for you guys but I'm trying not to burn through my sat phone minutes to find out an approximate cost. It is nice to have a better understanding of the process. Thanks for taking the time to explain it.
Alright, so it sounds like it's worth getting done. So, back to the original question "What are people paying (in general) to have this done?" I don't have access to bead blasting ect... out where I live and will have a 30 mile trip by snomachine to get it on an airplane out of here. Sorry if this annoying and tedious for you guys but I'm trying not to burn through my sat phone minutes to find out an approximate cost. It is nice to have a better understanding of the process. Thanks for taking the time to explain it.
Re: Parkerizing
well me thinks around in my marketplace the better part of a hundred dollar bill would do it.....IF YOU PRESENT YOUR PARK JOB COMPLETELY DISS-ASSEMBLED AND HUNG ON SAFETY WIRE.
this way the guy only has to bead blast and dunk the wired up parts.....YOU do the re -assembly
doing all the grunt work...someone would prolly not charge too much....might just buy him lunch and call it good....
aviation machine shops and FAA repair stations may have park tanks....or some general machine shops....it will pay you to shop...
oh and its a good idea to be in the tanks early in the week....when the chemicals are fresher.....this means a darker park job
well me thinks around in my marketplace the better part of a hundred dollar bill would do it.....IF YOU PRESENT YOUR PARK JOB COMPLETELY DISS-ASSEMBLED AND HUNG ON SAFETY WIRE.
this way the guy only has to bead blast and dunk the wired up parts.....YOU do the re -assembly
doing all the grunt work...someone would prolly not charge too much....might just buy him lunch and call it good....
aviation machine shops and FAA repair stations may have park tanks....or some general machine shops....it will pay you to shop...
oh and its a good idea to be in the tanks early in the week....when the chemicals are fresher.....this means a darker park job
Re: Parkerizing
Thanks, I appreciate the time and info. That doesn't seem bad at all. I'll look into it and see what I can arrange. I have a friend that's a airframe mechanic who may have some options for me.
Thanks, I appreciate the time and info. That doesn't seem bad at all. I'll look into it and see what I can arrange. I have a friend that's a airframe mechanic who may have some options for me.
Re: Parkerizing
FYI, Cerakote does not need parkerizing. In fact, I blast any park off before applying cerakote.
FYI, Cerakote does not need parkerizing. In fact, I blast any park off before applying cerakote.
Re: Parkerizing
You can expect to pay anywhere from $100 up to about $150. Anymore than that and you would be better off getting someone to apply Gun Kote or Cera Coat finish that would run around $200-$250 generally depending on who you have do it. That is unless you just want Parkerizing.
You can expect to pay anywhere from $100 up to about $150. Anymore than that and you would be better off getting someone to apply Gun Kote or Cera Coat finish that would run around $200-$250 generally depending on who you have do it. That is unless you just want Parkerizing.
Re: Parkerizing
I've never used Cerakote but I know KG gunkote ect.. don't work well in the cold. When the temps drop the actions become very sticky and gummed up and cycling the bolt can get extremely difficult. I was under the impression that parking it would work better in the cold. However, I do appreciate you taking the time and adding your thoughts. Thanks.
tpowers, checked out your website. Nice looking work.
I've never used Cerakote but I know KG gunkote ect.. don't work well in the cold. When the temps drop the actions become very sticky and gummed up and cycling the bolt can get extremely difficult. I was under the impression that parking it would work better in the cold. However, I do appreciate you taking the time and adding your thoughts. Thanks.
tpowers, checked out your website. Nice looking work.
Re: Parkerizing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ykrvak</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've never used Cerakote but I know KG gunkote ect.. don't work well in the cold. When the temps drop the actions become very sticky and gummed up and cycling the bolt can get extremely difficult. I was under the impression that parking it would work better in the cold. However, I do appreciate you taking the time and adding your thoughts. Thanks.
tpowers, checked out your website. Nice looking work. </div></div>
I've never had or heard of that happening with cerkote.
As for your bolt, go with an ionbond finish and never have to worry about it again and Cerakote the rest in the color of your choosing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ykrvak</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've never used Cerakote but I know KG gunkote ect.. don't work well in the cold. When the temps drop the actions become very sticky and gummed up and cycling the bolt can get extremely difficult. I was under the impression that parking it would work better in the cold. However, I do appreciate you taking the time and adding your thoughts. Thanks.
tpowers, checked out your website. Nice looking work. </div></div>
I've never had or heard of that happening with cerkote.
As for your bolt, go with an ionbond finish and never have to worry about it again and Cerakote the rest in the color of your choosing.
Re: Parkerizing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DMann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There are two basic parks; Zinc phosphate which when cured with Cosmoline will give the greenish color of many vintage WWII weapons, and manganese phosphate which cures to a deep charcoal grey/black.
I am partial to the zinc, but I am a retro kinda guy.
</div></div>
Do you know who currently does the Zinc/Cosmoline finish park jobs? i have an early G1 Fal Kit that has remnants of that kind of finish on the handguards and barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DMann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There are two basic parks; Zinc phosphate which when cured with Cosmoline will give the greenish color of many vintage WWII weapons, and manganese phosphate which cures to a deep charcoal grey/black.
I am partial to the zinc, but I am a retro kinda guy.
</div></div>
Do you know who currently does the Zinc/Cosmoline finish park jobs? i have an early G1 Fal Kit that has remnants of that kind of finish on the handguards and barrel.
Re: Parkerizing
I had an M1 Garand done in zinc a couple years ago by Shuff's Parkerizing in Michigan. He did a nice job and was reasonable and quick. I have an LTR with a the darker manganese park that has seen a lot more use and it wears fairly well. It does have to be lightly oiled occasionally (as Boltripper mentioned).
I had an M1 Garand done in zinc a couple years ago by Shuff's Parkerizing in Michigan. He did a nice job and was reasonable and quick. I have an LTR with a the darker manganese park that has seen a lot more use and it wears fairly well. It does have to be lightly oiled occasionally (as Boltripper mentioned).
Similar threads
