Part building cost vs Factory built costs

[KiwiShtr]

Hi all
Lately Ive been looking into parts to build an AR. To my pleasant surprise, the cost of building an AR using quite high end parts has turned out to be comparable to buying a factory equivalent.

YHM Barrel $250
Black Rain Milled upper $260
Black Rain Milled Lower $270
DPMS Tit Nit Bolt carrier/group $170
Troy Forend $140 (great deal from on the hide)
BCM Charge Handle $45
DPMS Lower parts kit $55
Buffer assembly $40
Butt stock I already have.
Misc pins, springs etc $50

Now remember these are relatively higher end components (comparable) and I can build this myself to my specs.
Total $1140

VS example
Smith and Wesson M&P15 Approx $1000 depending where you get it from.
Bushmaster M4 A3 Rifle 223 16" w/Rail 30rd AR15 $1013.

Considering the factory rifles are mass produced (cutting costs on individual item). Why would there be such a similarity in costs to a "semi" custom rifle with (probably) higher quality components?

 

[tylerw02]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KiwiShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi all
Lately Ive been looking into parts to build an AR. To my pleasant surprise, the cost of building an AR using quite high end parts has turned out to be comparable to buying a factory equivalent.

YHM Barrel $250
Black Rain Milled upper $260
Black Rain Milled Lower $270
DPMS Tit Nit Bolt carrier/group $170
Troy Forend $140 (great deal from on the hide)
BCM Charge Handle $45
DPMS Lower parts kit $55
Buffer assembly $40
Butt stock I already have.
Misc pins, springs etc $50

Now remember these are relatively higher end components (comparable) and I can build this myself to my specs.
Total $1140

VS example
Smith and Wesson M&P15 Approx $1000 depending where you get it from.
Bushmaster M4 A3 Rifle 223 16" w/Rail 30rd AR15 $1013.

Considering the factory rifles are mass produced (cutting costs on individual item). Why would there be such a similarity in costs to a "semi" custom rifle with (probably) higher quality components?

</div></div>


I'm going to go out on a limb and say you should really re-prioritize your parts list.

YHM barrel---well that's debatable, not a "bad" choice, at the same time its nothing special. I'd rather have a Bravo or DD so that I KNOW the gas port is the right diameter, the chamber is to spec and the barrel steel is spec.

Black Rain Milled upper/lower----VERY expensive and no advantage except they look nice. Often milled parts have tolerance that don't stack well when combined with parts from other companies. I've personally had issues with this. Either way, you can buy X brand lower and X brand upper for less and serve the same purpose just as well.

DPMS TiNit BCG--pretty good argument that you're going to see no noticeable advantage. Many argue the DPMS is an inferior product. One could get a BCM or DD for less money that is actually better quality.

Tory handguard---looks like a good pick up.

BCM CH----THOSE ARE EXCELLENT!

DPMS LPK----Having FIVE of them personally, I'll suggest you get a Daniel Defense kit. For the extra $30, it will provide more benefit than the fancy billet upper/lower and fancy coated BCG. My DPMS kits have very spongey triggers and the other small parts were of poor quality compared to my DD kits.

Buffer----Just get a good H or H2 depending on what gas system you're running. Go with a mil-spec receiver extension and a good spring and you're good to go.

Butt stock----if you've already got it, run it til you find out that it doesn't work.

Misc pins---shouldn't be anything else you need?

I'm going out on a limb and saying you don't really have "higher-end components" here. You are still lacking sights. Also note that frankenguns don't resale nearly as high as factory guns.

Were I you I'd just pick up a BCM upper, BCG, and CH. BCM uppers are running $400 right now, add +140 for BCG and +45 CH. You could also get a receiver extension kit from them as well. You'll also save on your shipping that way. Pick up a DD LPK for $70-75. Pick up the random-branded forged CMT lower of your choice for $75-150 and you'll have saved money and ended up with something superior to what your list or the S&B, DPMS, Bushmaster etc.

Or pick up a Colt 6920 for about $1200 that is superior to anything we've listed.

 

[MaximumVelocity]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

Looks like a decent build. It helps that you have a stock for it. I would personally opt for a slightly better trigger but you are on the right path.

 

[davidslife1975]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

i was able to build a rifle using bcm complete upper midlenth 16'' bcm bolt and bolt carrier which is a good one magpull handguards and got a complete lower for around 1000 bucks and its way better quality than my older guns i had bushmaster and dpms

 

[kvwpwr]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tylerw02</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KiwiShtr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi all
Lately Ive been looking into parts to build an AR. To my pleasant surprise, the cost of building an AR using quite high end parts has turned out to be comparable to buying a factory equivalent.

YHM Barrel $250
Black Rain Milled upper $260
Black Rain Milled Lower $270
DPMS Tit Nit Bolt carrier/group $170
Troy Forend $140 (great deal from on the hide)
BCM Charge Handle $45
DPMS Lower parts kit $55
Buffer assembly $40
Butt stock I already have.
Misc pins, springs etc $50

Now remember these are relatively higher end components (comparable) and I can build this myself to my specs.
Total $1140

VS example
Smith and Wesson M&P15 Approx $1000 depending where you get it from.
Bushmaster M4 A3 Rifle 223 16" w/Rail 30rd AR15 $1013.

Considering the factory rifles are mass produced (cutting costs on individual item). Why would there be such a similarity in costs to a "semi" custom rifle with (probably) higher quality components?

</div></div>


I'm going to go out on a limb and say you should really re-prioritize your parts list.

YHM barrel---well that's debatable, not a "bad" choice, at the same time its nothing special. I'd rather have a Bravo or DD so that I KNOW the gas port is the right diameter, the chamber is to spec and the barrel steel is spec.

Black Rain Milled upper/lower----VERY expensive and no advantage except they look nice. Often milled parts have tolerance that don't stack well when combined with parts from other companies. I've personally had issues with this. Either way, you can buy X brand lower and X brand upper for less and serve the same purpose just as well.

DPMS TiNit BCG--pretty good argument that you're going to see no noticeable advantage. Many argue the DPMS is an inferior product. One could get a BCM or DD for less money that is actually better quality.

Tory handguard---looks like a good pick up.

BCM CH----THOSE ARE EXCELLENT!

DPMS LPK----Having FIVE of them personally, I'll suggest you get a Daniel Defense kit. For the extra $30, it will provide more benefit than the fancy billet upper/lower and fancy coated BCG. My DPMS kits have very spongey triggers and the other small parts were of poor quality compared to my DD kits.

Buffer----Just get a good H or H2 depending on what gas system you're running. Go with a mil-spec receiver extension and a good spring and you're good to go.

Butt stock----if you've already got it, run it til you find out that it doesn't work.

Misc pins---shouldn't be anything else you need?

I'm going out on a limb and saying you don't really have "higher-end components" here. You are still lacking sights. Also note that frankenguns don't resale nearly as high as factory guns.

Were I you I'd just pick up a BCM upper, BCG, and CH. BCM uppers are running $400 right now, add +140 for BCG and +45 CH. You could also get a receiver extension kit from them as well. You'll also save on your shipping that way. Pick up a DD LPK for $70-75. Pick up the random-branded forged CMT lower of your choice for $75-150 and you'll have saved money and ended up with something superior to what your list or the S&B, DPMS, Bushmaster etc.

Or pick up a Colt 6920 for about $1200 that is superior to anything we've listed.
</div></div>

I agree with everything tyler said here. I wouldn't spend the money on the black rain stuff and then put a yhm barrel on it. If you have to stick to that budget I would get a cheaper upper and lower set and spend the money on a higher end barrel and a good trigger... like a geissele. Your money will be better spent that way.

Oh and don't forget those complete rifles come with a magazine and front and rear sights. I don't see those listed in your parts list. Also, I'm not sure if the yhm barrel is bare or if it has a flash hider, gas block/a2 sight on it.. but don't forget that stuff either.

 

[KiwiShtr]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

Cheers for the input so far. I forgot to mention I have all other components, sights, lights, lasers, optics, stock, pistol grip, mags etc (leftovers from work). Im used to using what was givin to me and tweaking it to suit me, as much as the Coy will allow. Glad to hear the input on the components, the list is definitly open to modification. Those parts Ill do some more research on and see what I can come up with. The barrel and forend I already have, the rest is now TBC.

So lets now use this list as an example. Lets say that some of these parts are a little over priced. Why is it comparable in price to home build the rifle as apposed to the factory one?

YHM Barrel has FH but no gas block.

 

[cwillits505]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

Agree with above.. i build these things all day long, and you get what you pay for, but it does sound like a nice build, good luck

 

[KiwiShtr]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

Updated parts list:

POF 415 Lower
Black Rain Gen II Upper
Tear drop Bolt assist
DPMS Tit Nit BCG
Troy TRX 11" Forend
YHM 14.5 BBL
DPMS LPG, (trigger job to do yet)
Ergo Pistol grip
Magpul, BUIS, CTR Stock, Ambi sling mount, Angle foregrip, MS2 Sling
Trij ACOG 4x32 Dual ilum, or Aim Point Comp4 (havent decided yet which to use, they both have Larue mounts)
Surefire Scout light
Chrg handle
Mil Spec buffet tube
Only thing I need now is anti roll pins but they can wait and buffer and spring.

Any suggestions on a spring and buffer that will work on this set up?

I need to remove the pinned YHM brake off the bbl to get the low pro gas block on, then put a new one on and sweat it.

More to follow...

 

[physhphude]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

I agree with the posts above, If that is your budget, skip the billet upper and lower and put that money towards a better barrel.

The barrel is the heart of the rifle. I built a rifle up around a noveske barrel for around your price range, and I can do about 1-1.5 moa with XM 193 at 200 yards (except for fliers due to ammo I assume)

 

[*greenhorn*]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

I have played with the billet uppers and lowers, if your not in the sand and mud, id desert train Like some us have been where you have to worrie about sand storms. in the freezing cold operating. or going to run it full auto 100's of rounds at a time. Their is no real need for the billet upper and lower.

I have never owned a billet and have never regretted it, just never have lived in areas where it was needed to own one. most people buy all this super high grade stuff and only use it to about 40% potential because it was designed for a LOT MORE than you can dish out.

 

[KiwiShtr]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

I already had the barrel from an impulse buy a while back. So ill just stick with that and wear it out. Then get myself a decent one. Im not using it for any real precision shooting, all under 300yd. I have a bolt gun for that. Its going to be more of a smaller game hunting, maybe 3 gun if I get into it, and to keep some skills up.
Was in the sand for just on 5yrs so totally agree about maybe not needing billet. Its also my present to myself for finishing over there (glad I got out at the right time). Most of it I actually had from working there, so its mainly the billet, BCG, LP kit and barrel that I had to get.

This is actually my first AR build. Ive always been givin what I was given and tweaked it to suit me. Now I can build it to suit me.

 

[BBJones13]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cowboy1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have played with the billet uppers and lowers, if your not in the sand and mud, id desert train Like some us have been where you have to worrie about sand storms. in the freezing cold operating. or going to run it full auto 100's of rounds at a time. Their is no real need for the billet upper and lower.

I have never owned a billet and have never regretted it, just never have lived in areas where it was needed to own one. most people buy all this super high grade stuff and only use it to about 40% potential because it was designed for a LOT MORE than you can dish out. </div></div>


Huh? Billet is not for extreme conditions. BIllet is less durable (not saying it makes a difference) than forged. What you get with billet is tighter fit (again debatable if this is even needed) and a subjectively better looking upper/lower. Oh and you get the priviledge of paying two to five times more for it.

 

[Boondocker308]

Re: Part building cost vs Factory built costs

Agreed. The problem is that the tolerances on the last billet lower I purchased were so tight that assembling it was a pain and the fit to the upper receiver was almost too tight. I'll stick with the forged pieces myself.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BBJones</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cowboy1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have played with the billet uppers and lowers, if your not in the sand and mud, id desert train Like some us have been where you have to worrie about sand storms. in the freezing cold operating. or going to run it full auto 100's of rounds at a time. Their is no real need for the billet upper and lower.

I have never owned a billet and have never regretted it, just never have lived in areas where it was needed to own one. most people buy all this super high grade stuff and only use it to about 40% potential because it was designed for a LOT MORE than you can dish out. </div></div>


Huh? Billet is not for extreme conditions. BIllet is less durable (not saying it makes a difference) than forged. What you get with billet is tighter fit (again debatable if this is even needed) and a subjectively better looking upper/lower. Oh and you get the priviledge of paying two to five times more for it. </div></div>

 

[KiwiShtr]

Part building cost vs Factory built costs, Pic

Am just about done with the build. Torque barrel, roll pin for bolt assist then done.
As I had a Yankee Hill Barrel with a pinned brake, I had to grind down to the thread just below the pin (only the pinned is braised, not the thread), then unscrew the old brake so I could put on my low profile gas block. Once I get the barrel put in place Ill silver braise new the brake back in place to keep it legal.