Rifle Scopes Proper Scope Mounting

[Hadwyn]

I'm new to the long distance shooting game and just purchased my first rifle and scope: a Remington 700 5R .308 and a Steiner Tactical 4-16x50mm (34mm tube). Also went with a Badger Ordnance base (30 MOA - 306-46) and rings (34mm 1" set - 306-75). Getting ready to mount it and would like some input on best practices and the most worthwhile tools and accessories to go with.

A few specific questions to get started:

1. How important is a torque driver with adjustable pressure options? Which is the best to go with for all-around use (Wheeler and Weaver come to mind - anyone have a preference?)? Is this something I will realistically use regularly after the initial mounting (assuming I don't swap scope or mounts)?
2. What is the best method for ensuring everything is level during installation? Should I go the route of a precision bubble level (i.e.: Tank Scope Level; Ultra-Mini G3 Torpedo), or a specialized leveling kit (i.e.: Wheeler Leveling System)? What's the most accurate pocket level that is effective for this task?
3. Do I need a caliper? Will I need to maintain precise measurements at all during the install? Does it matter if it's dial or digital?
4. Is it worth the cost to purchase alignment bars? The only set I could find for a 34mm tube is from Kokopelli for $133, which I hesitate to spend if I am only going to use them once (in the foreseeable future, at least). But if they yield a significant enough benefit in accuracy I wonder if they are worth purchasing.
5. Is it necessary to use a lapping bar, particularly on Badger Ordnance rings? The Kokopelli kit comes with one, though it's not much of a savings to go without it. Will lapping cause or prevent external damage to the scope tube? For that matter, is there a way to protect the outside of the scope from being marked up by the scope rings (a method that wouldn't adversely affect accuracy)?
6. Is a reticle level (i.e.: Segway Reticle Level) worth getting?
7. How important is it to have a mounted bubble level on the scope/rail (i.e.: Vortex; Accuracy 1st; US Optics)? Is scope tube or base mounting better, and why? And could I get away with other methods (i.e.: a pocket bubble level, like the Tank referenced above)?

My goal is to get the scope reasonably aligned so I can reliably shoot on target (as far as that depends on the sight). If there is anything I missed that should be considered please feel free to add. Thanks in advance for the advice and input. Cheers.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

1. Highly advisable so that you do not damage your scope or rings. Wheeler FAT wrench at minimum, but I really like the Borka kit. You will end up using it more down the road. I use mine all the time, torquing action screws, scope screws, or whatever else you happen to run into.
2. A basic level or even easier is using a deck of cards or metal feeler gauges stacked to fill the void between the turret housing and the scope rail, will give you a pretty good level.
3. No.
4 & 5. No, using quality rings you won't need to bother.
6. No, just another way to try and accomplish what you are doing in #2.
7. Really depends on how far you are talking, ELR they can come more into play as everything is magnified at distance. If you can hold the rifle reasonably level on your own you won't see a huge difference until you really start to push things ie. taking your 308 out to the limits of the round.

You'll probably get a bunch of different answers though, there's no magic to it really.

 

[Nisils14]

Don't even think about mounting a scope without some sort of torque wrench. It'll only help you, I work on cars for a living so naturally I have the tools already. Snap-on torque wrenches are my choice, but any torque tool works. I like using a feeler gauge to take up the slack between the mount/rail and the scope, but if I was go with a leveling device, I would take a look at badger ordnance's offering. Lapping rings, alignment, etc. isn't as necessary when quality parts are being used, however it's your piece of mind if you want to have them lapped or whatever.

 

[Redmanss]

You have a Badger base and rings, good job getting quality parts to start with. You're dropping this on a R700, so the first step will probably be to properly bed the base to the action since Remington doesn't exactly turn out perfectly square actions. There's some good DIY threads in the Gunsmithing forum, and 8541Tactical has an excellent video if I remember right.

I level with playing cards or feeler wrenches, depending on what I can get into the space depending on the side knobs. So long as your base is installed properly and isn't getting torqued off square, the rings will line up perfectly so it would be highly unlikely it would require lapping. I use the Borka wrench; great product from a great vendor. Eyeball it hard for being square, then match it up on a plumb bob at a minor distance to test squareness as well. The final test will be to take it downrange and check tracking on a perfectly perpendicular tracking chart. Dial 10-15 mils vertical minimum for verification. If you're off level, it will track off course.

Other accessory levels have been debated ad nauseam on here. A quick search will lead you to one of those 100+ post gems and you can make your own decision.

 

[Djstorm100]

make sure you bed the scope base...this in it self will allow you NOT have to lap the rings. Lapping the rings come from the scope rail being not level when tq down to a receiver that is not level.

 

[Pinecone]

Remember, the important thing is to have the reticle level when you shoot. So a scope level on the gun is good.

Also, the scope should be mounted to it is level when you have your natural hold. Which may NOT be level to the rifle.