Suppressors PRS guys, what cans do you run?

[just browsing]

Really close to pulling the trigger on an Ultra 7 for my 6 Creed, just wondering if there are any other options to consider for a PRS rig. I know the SiCo Omega is another one, but I think the TBAC is worth the extra coin based on what I've heard.

Also planning to use it on a 284 and .300 blk SBR, but its primary use will be for matches.

Any insight, experience, etc. is welcome.

Thanks.

 

[JBM_DC]

Love my silencer tech, but my arbiter is ultra quiet. I have used both, but prefer the silencer tech. As for SiCo and TBAC, never owned one, but hear good things.

While I don't generally link these articles nor read too far into them. This seems to be exactly what you are asking.
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/12/12/rifle-suppressor/

 

[just browsing]

Love my silencer tech, but my arbiter is ultra quiet. I have used both, but prefer the silencer tech. As for SiCo and TBAC, never owned one, but hear good things.

While I don't generally link these articles nor read too far into them. This seems to be exactly what you are asking.
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/12/12/rifle-suppressor/

Thanks. Yeah I've read through that article, but like you said I try not to put too much stock into them. I figured that it was predominantly SiCo and TBAC, just looking for some more detailed experiences with either of them. I've read all the reviews and watched all the videos on all of them, guess I'm just wanting to get a better idea of what guys do and don't like about each of them.

 

[JBM_DC]

From the few silencers I own and speaking strictly for PRS use my favorite is the SilecnerTech. I have yet to shoot another silencer that reduces recoil as much as these things. They are a good bridge between a good muzzle brake and the silencer pushing impulse. They might be a bit louder than most, but when recoil management is key I have not shot anything better. (Other than a brake)

 

[WYO09]

TBAC is my pick. I have 3 and they all are fantastic. The brake they mount to is very functional so that is a bonus for shooting unsuppressed. Also if you have any questions Zach is always quick to respond with the best customer service in any business I've dealt with including the two I own sad to say.

 

[southerngolfer]

i'm in the same boat with you JB. i think i have it narrowed down to the TBAC Ultra 7 or the Omega. i went and talked to my local dealer today, and the advice they game me was the Omega was primarily used for it's versatility, but they said the TBAC was made for precision shooting. the owner wasn't there today but they said he shoots the ultra 5/7/9 for his different firearms. also, i held both in my hands today (Omega and Ultra 9) and even the Ultra 9 was lighter than the Omega.

 

[samb300]

Hopefully in about a month I will have both in hand to compare...been waiting 8.5 months so far.

I have a 6.5Ultra7 for my 6.5mm match rifle, and an Omega for my SCAR17, AR15, and 308 practice barrel (AIAT). Like mentioned above, the TBAC is lighter and the brake is decent on its own. The numbers I came up with were 11.5oz for the Ultra7 (brake + can), and 18.3oz for the Omega (brake + ASR mount + can). I think if you run the Omega direct thread you save about 3.5oz from the ASR mount alone, but since I will be using it for multiple calibers it will be ASR mount only.

Not sure if that helps, but that was my thinking before blowing about $2k nine months ago

 

[just browsing]

Gents, good stuff. Exactly what I was hoping to hear.

I've also heard that the Omega is a 'jack of all trades, master of none' whereas the Ultra series cans are really geared more towards precision shooters. Not to say that the Omega can't be used for precision applications, I just think the TBAC might be a little more well-rounded for that type of use.

Really leaning towards the 7 at this point. The cost difference is minimal and I don't believe I've read anything bad about the Ultras to date. Looking like it's going to be tough to be for what I'm looking to do with it.

 

[jeo556]

Not trying to sway your opinion but I'm in the same boat as you. TBAC vs. Sico Omega and I found the Omega on Grab-a-gun for $749, that along with the current $200 Sico merch cert makes that one extremely attractive option. To my knowledge you cannot find a TBAC for much less than $900 let alone sub-$800. My primary host will be a 6mm LR rig so TBAC was my first choice but with so many using the omega in PRS, I figure it has to be suitable for LR shooting.

 

[SONIC SAAMI]

Omega priced at $749....don't see a better deal on the market

 

[fastarget]

omega

 

[samb300]

For $749, hell yeah get the Omega.

 

[morganlamprecht]

tbac is good stuff but it literally couldnt perform any better than my Omega...it hasnt hurt the accuracy on any of my barrels and POI shift on my heavy match barrels is less than 0.1 mil on the 6 barrels ive used this past year from 6mm to 308, i work up all loads with brakes on, only stick the can on afterwards since i run braked the majority of the time...got buddies with the ultra and cant tell any difference to the ear between the 2

 

[jeo556]

tbac is good stuff but it literally couldnt perform any better than my Omega...it hasnt hurt the accuracy on any of my barrels and POI shift on my heavy match barrels is less than 0.1 mil on the 6 barrels ive used this past year from 6mm to 308, i work up all loads with brakes on, only stick the can on afterwards since i run braked the majority of the time...got buddies with the ultra and cant tell any difference to the ear between the 2

This is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks brother

 

[Threadcutter308]

Dunno if the SiCo $200 rebate is still in effect, but you might want to look into it. I have an Omega (pre rebate) that I put on my .308W, 6,6.5x47 and my .223. Works fine, fun to shoot, especially on the .223.

 

[Jimgal62]

Tabac...awesome performance.

 

[just browsing]

Hahaha I love the back and forth. Sounds like I just need to pick one and run with it. I didn't realize the Omega was down to $749 at this point.... That sounds like it might be a winner.

 

[just browsing]

Well that deal on the Omega for $749 was a little too good to pass on. Placed an order through Grab a Gun tonight. And so it begins.

 

[ronpaul50]

Omega.

 

[craigos]

Mostly all TBAC Ultras (6.5 and 30 Ultra 7) but have a SAS Barricade DT for my 6 dasher.

 

[TexasGunTrustLawyer]

The TBAC ultra would be my choice. Even if they were giving omegas away

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[just browsing]

The TBAC ultra would be my choice. Even if they were giving omegas away

And your reasoning for this is....?

 

[just browsing]

Has anyone tested the repeatability on an Omega vs. the TBAC or others?

I know the Ultra 7 has a few videos of removing the can and then replacing it to show that it's consistent even once removed, just wondering if something similar has been done with the Omega.

 

[SOLO LOBO]

TB line of 6.5 ultras is what I run and others
that shoot w/me. I run the 7" and 9". I run the ultra 7. In match play weight is key in all gear.
Sound in 2nd. But, the 7 has a awesome sound and is super quite. The ultra 9 is super duper quit!!!!!
I own several cans (12) and they all work good or I would not own them. But they have there place. I would not use or would want to use any other for match use. My gun shoots the same w/ or w/o the TB ultras. Only the POI changes. That is most important to me in
a match. All TB can have this in common.
Thats why I use and recommend them.
Plues they r as quit as any I have ever used or shot.

M

 

[Saf3sh00t3r]

If wasn't so invested on SilCo, I would have gone TBAC.

Here is a poi shift test that was done by lowlight.

https://youtu.be/fE3KkqNJTR8


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[just browsing]

If wasn't so invested on SilCo, I would have gone TBAC.

Here is a poi shift test that was done by lowlight.

https://youtu.be/fE3KkqNJTR8

Yeah, I've seen the TBAC videos, just wondering what the Omega is like. I don't care so much what the POI shift is like with the suppressor on vs. unsuppressed. I'm more concerned with repeatability - being able to remove the suppressor and then replace it with the same POI.

 

[morganlamprecht]

Has anyone tested the repeatability on an Omega vs. the TBAC or others?

I know the Ultra 7 has a few videos of removing the can and then replacing it to show that it's consistent even once removed, just wondering if something similar has been done with the Omega.

i run an AIAT with my omega...this past year ive shot matches with 2 different 6.5 barrels, 2- 6mm, and 1- 308...for each one i zero'd and noted turret settings the first time i put them on the rifle braked...ive ran the same zero settings all year with each respective barrel, even in matches where i stuck the can on, no issue on <100 yd paper stages or at distance on steel...if theres any shift at all its less than i can shoot the difference of day in/day out

at rifles only ive ran stages suppressed, taken the can off for the mouse trap so i didnt have to deal with the length in tight spaces, and then put it on for the rest of the stages and its been spot on

also have a paper somewhere of 3 cold bore shots from my 28 nosler, each shot about 2-3 months apart...can removed and installed for each one obviously, all 3 are within 1/2" if you put them on top of each other

thats about all the testing ive done, nothing really specific as ive never been given reason to doubt it

 

[pineoak]

I run an Ultra 7 and have NO issues with it at all. Highly recommended. I will have an Omega as well soon for .223 & gas gun use.

Dedicated bolt gun, go TBAC ime.

 

[just browsing]

i run an AIAT with my omega...this past year ive shot matches with 2 different 6.5 barrels, 2- 6mm, and 1- 308...for each one i zero'd and noted turret settings the first time i put them on the rifle braked...ive ran the same zero settings all year with each respective barrel, even in matches where i stuck the can on, no issue on <100 yd paper stages or at distance on steel...if theres any shift at all its less than i can shoot the difference of day in/day out

at rifles only ive ran stages suppressed, taken the can off for the mouse trap so i didnt have to deal with the length in tight spaces, and then put it on for the rest of the stages and its been spot on

also have a paper somewhere of 3 cold bore shots from my 28 nosler, each shot about 2-3 months apart...can removed and installed for each one obviously, all 3 are within 1/2" if you put them on top of each other

thats about all the testing ive done, nothing really specific as ive never been given reason to doubt it

Fantastic info. That's pretty much what I was looking for. Just wanting to make sure that the repeatability of can vs. no can is consistent. Do you shoot it with the ASR brakes or direct thread? I've heard both sides - that accuracy is not affected whatsoever with the QD mounts, and also that it's better to run direct thread if you're looking to get the best consistency from it.

Omega order processed this morning, so I'm all in on it at this point. Feeling pretty good that I made the right decision. Nothing against the other options, but for what I need it to do and how it will be used, the choice was pretty obvious. $200 less than the TBAC/Surge/etc., plus another $200 in merch that I'm going to need anyway... done deal.

 

[Threadcutter308]

JB; In hindsight, I should have just gone with the direct thread mount for my Omega. In practice, it really isn't the PITA that you think it might be. I've found that with the ASR mount(s), the locking teeth are so fine that unless you watch the whole thing like a hawk, you run the risk of the locking mechanism loosening up, the can rotating and having a baffle/end cap strike. I never had it happen with the ASR, but I have had a couple of instances where the can had come loose. The main threads on the ASR/muzzle brake are very coarse and it takes very little rotation (backing off) for the can to get really wobbly.

With both the muzzle brake and the ASR direct thread mount adapter being 5/8x24, just use the included 5/8x24 mounting adapter first. If it does loosen up, the fine threads mean that the can would have to unscrew a lot further/more turns than the ASR mount set up before you experienced a baffle strike. I put a small amount of copper based anti-seize on the 5/8x24 threads and check tightness often. Be very careful where you have threaded parts where both of them are stainless. Running them dry/no lubrication is a really great way for the two stainless parts to gall and seize up. Then, you get to make the wonderful decision of which part you want your gunsmith to machine off into chips.

If you don't like the direct thread mount, your muzzle will already have been machined to 5/8x24, so you can just buy the ASR adapter for the Omega and muzzle brake. But, then there is timing of the brake. With the direct thread mount, you don't have to worry about timing, the can doesn't care. In either case, the quality/concentricity of the machining of the muzzle threads and shoulder is paramount. If you are going to send the barrel out for threading, make sure you send it to one of the excellent 'smiths that are regular contributors here on the hide. It'll cost you in the neighborhood of $100.00, but it's money well spent, particularly with the right guy.

 

[morganlamprecht]

Fantastic info. That's pretty much what I was looking for. Just wanting to make sure that the repeatability of can vs. no can is consistent. Do you shoot it with the ASR brakes or direct thread? I've heard both sides - that accuracy is not affected whatsoever with the QD mounts, and also that it's better to run direct thread if you're looking to get the best consistency from it.

Omega order processed this morning, so I'm all in on it at this point. Feeling pretty good that I made the right decision. Nothing against the other options, but for what I need it to do and how it will be used, the choice was pretty obvious. $200 less than the TBAC/Surge/etc., plus another $200 in merch that I'm going to need anyway... done deal.

i run the ASR on everything since i still prefer running a brake in most matches, i wanted the option of having both...if you put it on like you mean it, it aint comin off by itself...i put mine on tight enough that it stays on even if the lock ring is left loose...ive tried it and shot with it loose for a few rounds

 

[spife7980]

Yeah, I've seen the TBAC videos, just wondering what the Omega is like. I don't care so much what the POI shift is like with the suppressor on vs. unsuppressed. I'm more concerned with repeatability - being able to remove the suppressor and then replace it with the same POI.

I also had that concern so I sat down and shot 10 shots, removing the can between each shot. I would do a 5 shots removing and reinstalling as quickly as I could so it would warm up and then I did the other five where I let it cool longer in between but each one landed in the same group. So that relieved my concerns about the repeatability of the lock up.
And I agree, I too would like a TBAC ultra but I got my omega for 750 so it was too hard of an upsale to swing me to the TBAC. And now that you get an additional 200 in credit for muzzle accessories, well thats just the cream on top.

Youre going to love the omega.

JB; In hindsight, I should have just gone with the direct thread mount for my Omega. In practice, it really isn't the PITA that you think it might be.
If you don't like the direct thread mount, your muzzle will already have been machined to 5/8x24, so you can just buy the ASR adapter for the Omega and muzzle brake. But, then there is timing of the brake. With the direct thread mount, you don't have to worry about timing, the can doesn't care.

But the omega already comes with both systems. You dont have to buy anything extra. It has the 5/8 direct thread module as well as the asr module with a 5/8 30cal brake. And the brake comes with the necessary shims and rocksett and it takes all of 10 minutes to figure out which combo of shims will get it orriented correctly with the fewest amount of shims. Especially if you have calipers and sort them by thicknesses so you can tell easily what you need and have already tried. That was my biggest issue, just leaving them in one pile. The second brake was literally a couple minutes once I sorted them midway through my first. I believe it comes with 2-.001, 2-.002, 2-.005, and 1-.01 thick shims. Just let the rockesett sit for a full 24 hours before you go blasting.
​​
If one goes asr route just spin the can on by the body and loosen it by the module. By doing those two things you will ensure that you never prematurely hit the slide lock on the module closing the teeth before fully tightened or drag teeth while taking it off. I imagine most people blowing their cans off drift over the module when tightening closing the teeth down before the can fully seats on the shoulder. By tightening by the body and loosening the module you never torque the module/body connection the wrong way, you will always be tightening the two pieces against each other.

I fear that the direct thread module would loosen from the can body when the can gets hot and expands over a course of fire. You could tighten it when its hot but then separating the two would be difficult when cooled. The only time I would go direct thread over the module personally would maybe be while out hunting and thats just because its a few ounces lighter and shorter in that configuration and if I had to take a shot with the can off I wouldnt be braked destroying my hearing.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Hey Spife,

You're right, I had forgotten that the Omega does come with the ASR mount and one brake. I was coming from the standpoint of having multiple barreled actions and having to buy additional brakes. You also raise great points about the installation and removal of the Omega with the ASR mount. I've had my Omega for about a year and a half. When I originally got it, the ASR mount was constantly coming loose in the can, so installation and removal sometimes resulted in my rifle going back in it's bag with the ASR mount on the barrel and the Omega in the bag. I was constantly applying dry lube to the brake, which helped until it wore off. I also had more loosening problems than I was comfortable with on the ASR mount locking mechanism. I can see where your technique would probably mitigate most, if not all of the problems I was having. I'm not a fan of using anything stronger than blue Loctite for anything, particularly if I think I may have to take it apart down the road. I was indexing my brakes on the lathe and trying not to have to use shims. I did it successfully for all three barreled actions, but it is a pain.

I'm going to give your suggestions a try.

Thx,

 

[just browsing]

I also had that concern so I sat down and shot 10 shots, removing the can between each shot. I would do a 5 shots removing and reinstalling as quickly as I could so it would warm up and then I did the other five where I let it cool longer in between but each one landed in the same group. So that relieved my concerns about the repeatability of the lock up.
And I agree, I too would like a TBAC ultra but I got my omega for 750 so it was too hard of an upsale to swing me to the TBAC. And now that you get an additional 200 in credit for muzzle accessories, well thats just the cream on top.

Youre going to love the omega.

Good info, that relieves some of my concern as well... Not that I really had much to begin with given how many guys shoot Omegas, but I haven't seen any tests or anything similar to what they did to show repeatability with the TBAC cans. You're exactly right though, that's pretty much a $4-500 swing if you factor in the merch. rebate. I understand the buy once, cry once mentality, especially when it comes to suppressors, but if I'm able to get essentially the same performance for less, I'm not going to spend more than I have to.

But the omega already comes with both systems. You dont have to buy anything extra. It has the 5/8 direct thread module as well as the asr module with a 5/8 30cal brake. And the brake comes with the necessary shims and rocksett and it takes all of 10 minutes to figure out which combo of shims will get it orriented correctly with the fewest amount of shims. Especially if you have calipers and sort them by thicknesses so you can tell easily what you need and have already tried. That was my biggest issue, just leaving them in one pile. The second brake was literally a couple minutes once I sorted them midway through my first. I believe it comes with 2-.001, 2-.002, 2-.005, and 1-.01 thick shims. Just let the rockesett sit for a full 24 hours before you go blasting.

If one goes asr route just spin the can on by the body and loosen it by the module. By doing those two things you will ensure that you never prematurely hit the slide lock on the module closing the teeth before fully tightened or drag teeth while taking it off. I imagine most people blowing their cans off drift over the module when tightening closing the teeth down before the can fully seats on the shoulder. By tightening by the body and loosening the module you never torque the module/body connection the wrong way, you will always be tightening the two pieces against each other.

I fear that the direct thread module would loosen from the can body when the can gets hot and expands over a course of fire. You could tighten it when its hot but then separating the two would be difficult when cooled. The only time I would go direct thread over the module personally would maybe be while out hunting and thats just because its a few ounces lighter and shorter in that configuration and if I had to take a shot with the can off I wouldnt be braked destroying my hearing.

Also good info - I've *read* some guys complaining about the teeth on their locking modules becoming worn down, but I have a feeling that if it is in fact an issue, it stems from incorrect installation/removal as you're implying. I'm thinking I'm going to go the ASR route, A) because it will be sleeping around with a few different hosts, B) it doesn't sound like accuracy or consistency differs with brake vs. direct thread, and C) I will still shoot them brake only from time to time.

I've also heard of the direct thread issue while the suppressor is still hot... Since the barrel and DT module are both presumably stainless in that instance, it would also seem that doing such could increase the chances of galling the threads and/or allowing the can to become 'stuck' on the barrel until both are allowed to sufficiently cool. I'll just need to make sure that the brakes are properly installed so that they won't come loose from the barrel upon removal of the suppressor.

Thanks again for all the advice, guys!

 

[neeltburn]

Suppressed Armament Arbiter. Getting ready to purchase a SAS Barricade.

 

[pineoak]

If my Omega .30 cans ever get out of jail... I can do a direct comparison with the TBAC .30 Ultra 7.

 

[loudandproud]

I run a Sico omega on an asr and it's a great do anything can. Only complaint is that the threads get super sticky and the blast baffle erosion is high for only have 6k rounds on it.

That said... I'm considering getting a second one.

 

[5RWill]

I run TBAC exclusively on my match rifles. And that would be my choice if it were me. There is a reason they're considered the gold standard.

I also own a SiCo hybrid and my omega should be here soon. I'd say you can't go wrong with either. Though my preference is TBAC. I have plans for an ultra 7 and to get my 30CB9 re-cored.

 

[Renomd]

SAS Barricade, super light, short, and great sound suppression.

 

[JLR]

I'll kick in another vote for the TBAC Ultra 7. I have both a 6.5mm and a 30 cal version and they are very good.

 

[pineoak]

I'll kick in another vote for the TBAC Ultra 7. I have both a 6.5mm and a 30 cal version and they are very good.

Ooh... do you ever run a 6.5 through your .30 ultra 7? I've always wondered if I made the wrong decision getting the .30 instead of the 6.5 (I think I did) as 6.5 & .223 are all I run anymore. I think I should've gotten the ultra 9 6.5- even though I always use earpro

How big a difference do you notice?

 

[lash]

Pine, there was a study posted, I think on the Scout site, regarding the differences in dB reduction between using a caliber specific or downsized can. If I recall correctly, there was only a slight reduction in performance with using a .30 can for 6.5 and even 6mm. I obviously cannot quote any numbers.

I use a .30 can for .260 and have zero regrets. In my pea brain, there's the thought that it slightly reduces the chance of a baffle strike too. Though, since I'm using direct thread, I think that chance is already pretty slim.

Life is too short for regrets, but if it's because you secretly want to buy another can, then have at it.

 

[southerngolfer]

If my Omega .30 cans ever get out of jail... I can do a direct comparison with the TBAC .30 Ultra 7.

Very interested. Keep us posted please. Thanks

 

[southerngolfer]

Ooh... do you ever run a 6.5 through your .30 ultra 7? I've always wondered if I made the wrong decision getting the .30 instead of the 6.5 (I think I did) as 6.5 & .223 are all I run anymore. I think I should've gotten the ultra 9 6.5- even though I always use earpro

How big a difference do you notice?

I'm having the same thought. I don't want to buy the 6.5 ultra 7 to use for my 6.5cm and .223 and then later in life buy a 30 cal and wished I had bought the 30cal can

 

[Zak Smith]

On an Ultra 7, the 6.5 version is 2-3 dB quieter than the .30 cal version on a .260/6.5CM. Same for Ultra 9 6.5 vs .30

 

[PrimeTimeWillyD]

After owning and running an Omega, and then shooting with an Ultra 7, I'd recommend going with the Ultra 7. Yes it cost more but the thunderbeast is a better performer in my opinion. If you are going to be running the can on multiple platforms and want rapid changes from rifle to rifle go with the Omega.

 

[7mmRM]

SAS Barricade

 

[sideburn]

I run TBAC exclusively on my match rifles. And that would be my choice if it were me. There is a reason they're considered the gold standard.

I also own a SiCo hybrid and my omega should be here soon. I'd say you can't go wrong with either. Though my preference is TBAC. I have plans for an ultra 7 and to get my 30CB9 re-cored.

I bit the bullet today and bought a 338 Ultra. The can just sounds amazing, has incredible breaking performance and grouped 1/4 MOA with factory loads.

Shout out to my boys at Trigger Time Gun Club that set me up.

 

[JLR]

Ooh... do you ever run a 6.5 through your .30 ultra 7? I've always wondered if I made the wrong decision getting the .30 instead of the 6.5 (I think I did) as 6.5 & .223 are all I run anymore. I think I should've gotten the ultra 9 6.5- even though I always use earpro

How big a difference do you notice?

I run my 6mm and 6.5mm through the 30 cal can all the time actually. When both my wife and I shoot suppressed, I let her run the 6.5 can and I run the 30 cal. I honestly don't notice much difference, but since we now have identical cartridges and barrel lengths I can do a little better comparison.

 

[southerngolfer]

I run my 6mm and 6.5mm through the 30 cal can all the time actually. When both my wife and I shoot suppressed, I let her run the 6.5 can and I run the 30 cal. I honestly don't notice much difference, but since we now have identical cartridges and barrel lengths I can do a little better comparison.

This is with the ultra 7 correct? Can I ask, are you able to shoot without ear pro comfortably?