Question on Steel Targets

[LawnMM]

I'm looking into steel targets because the only paper I've been able to spot a hit on at 1000 yards are the Birchwood Casey 12x18 silhouettes. They're around 20 bucks shipped for a pack of 8 and I can't find them locally. So the cost of those targets mounts quickly. While I can see hits on it, I can't see them all, its sort of hit or miss as to whether there's enough splash to make them visible that far out.

So here's the question on steel targets, spend the extra coin for a reactive target? Or can you still hear the clang at 1k shooting .308? I've shot steel at 550 yards and can hear the impact pretty easily, but 1000 is twice that, looking for feedback from long range steel shooters here.

Rich

 

[AKAce]

Re: Question on Steel Targets

.308 will Swing most Hanging steel plates @ 1000. Though it can be Hard to see with high hits on a 100% Sillywet. Anything smaller and you should be fine.

Fresh Paint and you will Likely see most of your hits on the steel with Spotter.

Hearing it will depend on conditions, the plate, the method of attachment, your hearing protection choices etc.

 

[pawprint]

Re: Question on Steel Targets

Hearing? Maybe, but if hanged by chain (or like)-easy to see them "dance"! Regarding paint, with fresh paint you can usually see the splatter, but if you shoot more than 20rounds or so, it gets harder and harder, by the time you get to 40, no. I paint mine to keep the steel in good shape: mount with some free swing, they're heavy and don't wiggle for long, you'll be able to see them move-steel targets are great, a lot of ranges will not allow the use [steel] at all-you're lucky to have the choice.

 

[Aqua Mark]

Re: Question on Steel Targets

You can hear the hit on steel at 1000 yards, even this $99 camera on video mode with its cheap microphone picked up the clunk sound, the last second of this quick video.

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/jsnpCFArq2M"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/jsnpCFArq2M" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>

Now if its real windy, all best are off.

I always like to look at groups on paper if it is convenient or possible to drive down to look at the targets.

This white board at 1500 yards is just two 4x8 sheets of plywood bolted together with a frame, like building a wall on-site and tilting it up. Then cardboard torso targets are stapled onto it, and they can be saved to show long range groups, if needed.

 

[Tackleberry]

Re: Question on Steel Targets

I shoot ar500 steel. I use cans of spray white primer, or just white paint when I can't find primer for the steel. I then use a cardboard templet to paint the targets on the steel. I have from 1/2" to 3" circles I use to 1000 yds. With fresh paint I can see and hear even my 243 out to 1000. I am using 22 and 25 power scopes.

 

[LawnMM]

Re: Question on Steel Targets

Thanks. I figured you could but wanted to ask some people that have done it. I have some peltor muffs with mics and noise amplification so im thinking it shouldnt be an issue. The non reactive steel targets are a lot more affordable too. Gonna look into this and move it up the list.

 

[vinconco]

Hang Fast Targets offers a reactive target solution that might solve your problem. Our simple mounting system allows the target to swing freely in all directions when hit. The single mounting point enhances harmonics resulting in the best CLANG in the business. This video will demonstrate the system and the sound.
http://www.hangfasttargets.com

 

[dirthead1]

I have several Hang Fast targets and they are very easy to hear and see movement at 1000 yds. With one mounting point, they are very reactive and have a really nice sound. Last time out shooting, we had target set up from 550 yds to about 850 yds. After shooting a while, a couple of hunters came up to talk. They were over a ridge line, probably about a mile away, and said they could hear the target impacts.

 

[falco]

I bought a Caldwell target flasher for about $45.00 at the LGS. 2 weeks ago I used it at 600 and 1000 yards. Both the Creedmoor and the Grendel triggered the light. I had it on a 2x2 foot steel plate. The motion sensor was dangling on rubber bungee cord stretched between the hanger holes on the back of the plate. The strobe light was easily seen in full NC daylight at 1000 through my rifle scope.

 

[LawnMM]

Holy thread necromancy, that was a 6 year old post boys...

 

[DetroitRearView]

Hilarious LawnMM, especially with your avatar!

 

[southerngolfer]

buy steel and don;t look back!

 

[ctso030]

i use hangfast very easy to use and easy to hear at 1000 yds with a 260

 

[devldogs55]

AR500 steel at just a hair over 1,000yds. The cell phone video picked up the ding pretty easily

​​​​​​​<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y3teqwRzO_U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Papagallos]

holy thread necromancy, that was a 6 year old post boys...

:d:d:d:d:d:d:d

 

[devldogs55]

Haha it's not too hard to do in the current state of things.. all you have to do is browse a few pages back and people need to know what the best caliber is to take down a T-Rex.

 

[lkluemper00]

Need more forums topics about steel targets.
Whats bes affordable route to go when purchasing new steel targets? Thanks

 

[lkluemper00]

Best* at an affordable price

 

[devldogs55]

http://www.shootsteel.com always takes good care of me.

 

[JC Steel]

Need more forums topics about steel targets.
Whats bes affordable route to go when purchasing new steel targets? Thanks

Jcsteeltargets.com

 

[lkluemper00]

Ar500 steel only

 

[Trapshooter12]

I make mine out of the liner that comes out Mine Haul trucks.

 

[steve123]

While we're on the subject, is there a harder steel than AR500? My 3/8ths AR500 steel is shot up and some that was shot at 50Y with 225/55fmj has holes and big indentations - BOL did it when I first got the steel not realizing this would happen.

What I would like is even thinner steel for long range that reacts more and is lighter weight so easier to carry, harder would be cool too so I could use it close with the AR.

Oh and what would be the consequence of welding and those holes, would that ruin the steels hardness?

 

[MidCitiesMildMan]

I just have a sacrificial steel we use to shoot with rifles at under 150 yards. Velocity is what damages the steel. I think the "safe range" is under 2800 fps.

Easiest and cheapest way to go lighter is to use a smaller diameter steel.

 

[vinconco]

I make mine out of the liner that comes out Mine Haul trucks.

AR stands for "Abrasion Resistant" which is needed in mine Haul dump truck beds

 

[Stpilot12]

+1 for JCSteel and Hangfast targets for quality AR500. But also, I have several pieces of 1/4" AR400 that I picked up for pennies as scrap from a local steel supply vender.
I only use these at 800+.. yes my 300wm slinging Berger 215's @2900 makes a small mark on them but 223/6.5/308 doesn't hurt them at all.... and they're easier to carry

 

[Tyler Kemp]

While we're on the subject, is there a harder steel than AR500? My 3/8ths AR500 steel is shot up and some that was shot at 50Y with 225/55fmj has holes and big indentations - BOL did it when I first got the steel not realizing this would happen.

What I would like is even thinner steel for long range that reacts more and is lighter weight so easier to carry, harder would be cool too so I could use it close with the AR.

Oh and what would be the consequence of welding and those holes, would that ruin the steels hardness?

There's AR550 but you probably won't even notice the increased hardness.

When you weld you ruin the temper. This will make it softer wherever heated above approximately 400*. I make AR500 targets cut via a waterjet, anytime you cut with plasma or laser you're creating a heat-effected zone that ruins the temper on the cut line. You'll see chipping, dings, cracking, etc when bullets hit here. As an example of waterjet cut stuff in comparison, here's a target of mine from the mammoth sniper challenge that was shot literally all day, several times a minute from less than 300 yards (probably close to 200). There are lots of hits right on the edge with fast rounds, and no damage at all. We also etch our targets with the waterjet...as you can see this target's grid had no damage or dinging whatsoever:

 

[lash]

While we're on the subject, is there a harder steel than AR500? My 3/8ths AR500 steel is shot up and some that was shot at 50Y with 225/55fmj has holes and big indentations - BOL did it when I first got the steel not realizing this would happen.

What I would like is even thinner steel for long range that reacts more and is lighter weight so easier to carry, harder would be cool too so I could use it close with the AR.

Oh and what would be the consequence of welding and those holes, would that ruin the steels hardness?

I have different targets for different uses. I have a 1/2" thick AR500 popper with 4" dia. target, that we use for matches at 95-100 yards and it holds up very well. Except when hit by small rounds going over 3100 fps at that distance. Then it will dimple slightly or if hit on edge, will take a small divot off the edge. At 200-1000, 3/8" Ar500 works fine for everything including .338 LM and even .375 Cheytac. Sometimes I'll hang a 1/4" thick AR500 10" round target at 1000 to make it more sporty. That one really rings out. I prefer that nobody uses .375 CT or .50 on that one.

The one thing to remember is that when it comes to shooting steel, speed kills. It's the speed of the projectile that makes the biggest difference and impact on your steel. There was a good article posted a year or so ago on the last version of SH that gave a good estimation for different speeds and what thickness AR steel was optimal at different distances and speeds. It looks like I didn't save that one or I'd post it up for you.

 

[steve123]

I have different targets for different uses. I have a 1/2" thick AR500 popper with 4" dia. target, that we use for matches at 95-100 yards and it holds up very well. Except when hit by small rounds going over 3100 fps at that distance. Then it will dimple slightly or if hit on edge, will take a small divot off the edge. At 200-1000, 3/8" Ar500 works fine for everything including .338 LM and even .375 Cheytac. Sometimes I'll hang a 1/4" thick AR500 10" round target at 1000 to make it more sporty. That one really rings out. I prefer that nobody uses .375 CT or .50 on that one.

The one thing to remember is that when it comes to shooting steel, speed kills. It's the speed of the projectile that makes the biggest difference and impact on your steel. There was a good article posted a year or so ago on the last version of SH that gave a good estimation for different speeds and what thickness AR steel was optimal at different distances and speeds. It looks like I didn't save that one or I'd post it up for you.

Thanks for the info guys.

Last week I took a old shot up horrible 10" 3/8" thick round steel of AR500 and hung it off a strip of conveyer belt for our 675Y steel, hadn't tried that before. It had previously been bolted solid to a Artzen stand. Before it didn't move when hit and it was also not easy tell if we hit it or the big slab of 1" thick steel right behind it. Now it moves gratifyingly when hit, were mostly using 6mm's on it. A side benefit was splats appear to show up more.

Did the same to a 12" circle at 812Y. Problem is it's 1/2" and heavy so it doesn't move much with 6mm's. Actually it doesn't move all that much with my 6.5 Saum but much better than before. At least we can see some movement.

I think 1/4" thick AR500 is the best way to go to achieve the movement I'm looking for and it's lighter for hauling around.

 

[steve123]

Thanks for the info guys.

Last week I took a old shot up horrible 10" 3/8" thick round steel of AR500 and hung it off a strip of conveyer belt for our 675Y steel, hadn't tried that before. It had previously been bolted solid to a Artzen stand. Before it didn't move when hit and it was also not easy tell if we hit it or the big slab of 1" thick steel right behind it. Now it moves gratifyingly when hit, were mostly using 6mm's on it. A side benefit was splats appear to show up more.

Did the same to a 12" circle at 812Y. Problem is it's 1/2" and heavy so it doesn't move much with 6mm's. Actually it doesn't move all that much with my 6.5 Saum but much better than before. At least we can see some movement.

I think 1/4" thick AR500 is the best way to go to achieve the movement I'm looking for and it's lighter for hauling around.

Oh, and I have a 3/8" MGM mini popper, it's been repaired 3-4 times, No choice but to keep welding the bracket that the bolt goes through back on. I used to shoot it close but have it at 500Y so it doesn't get beat up so bad.

 

[lash]

Steve, if you ever decide to get another mini-popper, try one of these:

https://sitargets.com/product/ar500-14-auto-reset-pepper-popper/


https://sitargets.com/product/ar500-ground-hogprairie-dog-auto-reset-popper-with-sniper-legs/


This guy is local to us and makes high quality targets, and ships for $15 flat fee.. These are 1/2" AR500 and take a pounding over and over. We use them in our matches at 95-100 yards and they just keep on hanging in there.

 

[steve123]

Thankyou Lash

 

[TripleBull]

While we're on the subject, is there a harder steel than AR500?

What I would like is even thinner steel for long range that reacts more and is lighter weight so easier to carry, harder would be cool too so I could use it close with the AR.

Oh and what would be the consequence of welding and those holes, would that ruin the steels hardness?

For long range, you can use a variety of thinner metals to cut down your carry weight, but don't expect to use them up close with your AR.

There are a few topics to consider:

"However, if you weld on them you will soften the steel around the weld including the other side of the plate. This may cause increased damage to the target and a safety hazard from splash back. Once again, we never weld on the target plates."

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?5398-Stronger-then-AR-500

http://www.arntzentargets.com/SteelTypes.htm

http://www.actiontarget.com/the-truth-about-steel-and-steel-targets/

https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556121

 

[steve123]

And thankyou TripleBull

Yep, after yesterday we definitely need to do something with that heavy plate at 812Y.

 

[yotesniper66]

Hits are audible at 1000 yds with my 18x24 ar500 target from arntzentargets. I've found this paint combo easiest to see hits through 20x scope or higher power spotter. Group isn't the best, but I'm new and learning.