I just wanted to check with you all about NFA regulations on this. I've been considering buying for an investment gun a full auto SBR M-4. I want something that will both rise in value, and one that I can take out once in a while and enjoy at the range. Specifically I want a host for a suppressed 5.56 SBR and a 300 Blackout. If and when I purchase this rifle, I assume I'll be paying for both the full auto tax stamp and the SBR tax stamp, correct? And once the transfer comes through, since it's already a registered SBR, I can put whatever upper I want on it and fire away, right?
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Suppressors Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
- Thread starter ZLBubba
- Start date
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
You only have to pay the tax for the full auto registered lower. Once you have a "machine gun" you can have any barrel length you want. You can buy all the uppers to go with it that you desire and still only have to pay the original $200 stamp for the machine gun.
You only have to pay the tax for the full auto registered lower. Once you have a "machine gun" you can have any barrel length you want. You can buy all the uppers to go with it that you desire and still only have to pay the original $200 stamp for the machine gun.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
You'll only pay 1 tax to have it transferred as a full auto because being full auto trumps the SBR. As you know I'd do lots of research on full autos that are mil spec lowers. I was interested in a Sendra converted for $10,000 but to add most popular uppers I had to modify all them to fit on that receiver cause the swivel pin location was off set a lil and caused problems with alignment
Most recommendable full autos range from $12,000 to &20,000 defending on usage and brand
A few places I started looking besides site vendors was Larry Lasco & Ruben Mendiola or David Spiwak as they had a decent selection and reasonable prices. I am in no way affiliated to any of these individuals except a past customer
Good luck with your purchase
You'll only pay 1 tax to have it transferred as a full auto because being full auto trumps the SBR. As you know I'd do lots of research on full autos that are mil spec lowers. I was interested in a Sendra converted for $10,000 but to add most popular uppers I had to modify all them to fit on that receiver cause the swivel pin location was off set a lil and caused problems with alignment
Most recommendable full autos range from $12,000 to &20,000 defending on usage and brand
A few places I started looking besides site vendors was Larry Lasco & Ruben Mendiola or David Spiwak as they had a decent selection and reasonable prices. I am in no way affiliated to any of these individuals except a past customer
Good luck with your purchase
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
autoweapons.com
The owner's name is Vahn. He knows his stuff front and back. I purchased a suppressor from him a year ago and he was nice, professional, and full of good information.
Give him a shout. He has about the nicest selection of Class III items I have ever seen!
autoweapons.com
The owner's name is Vahn. He knows his stuff front and back. I purchased a suppressor from him a year ago and he was nice, professional, and full of good information.
Give him a shout. He has about the nicest selection of Class III items I have ever seen!
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
Ah, that's good news. Granted, one less tax stamp isn't a huge deal when you're shelling out that kind of cash for a gun, but $200 can still buy a good bit of ammo. I'm looking mostly at Colts since I've heard they've got the most compatibility with uppers, and any re-sale value would likely be higher with the industry standard.
Ah, that's good news. Granted, one less tax stamp isn't a huge deal when you're shelling out that kind of cash for a gun, but $200 can still buy a good bit of ammo. I'm looking mostly at Colts since I've heard they've got the most compatibility with uppers, and any re-sale value would likely be higher with the industry standard.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
If you somehow lose money in the machine gun world, you are doing something wrong!
Colts are pricey, but no other M16 holds their value or have a better chance of parts fitting correctly.
If you somehow lose money in the machine gun world, you are doing something wrong!
Colts are pricey, but no other M16 holds their value or have a better chance of parts fitting correctly.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
If you go with Colt watch out for some of the older ones. They had a large hole for the front takedown pin. If you get one with the large hole you will have to use a spacer bolt that can change how the upper and lower fit. If you do plunk down the cash make sure it is the one you really want and not one you fell in love with.
If you go with Colt watch out for some of the older ones. They had a large hole for the front takedown pin. If you get one with the large hole you will have to use a spacer bolt that can change how the upper and lower fit. If you do plunk down the cash make sure it is the one you really want and not one you fell in love with.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
Also if you buy Colt make sure it is a true M16/M16A1 or make sure if it is a SP1 conversion that it was done by a reputable manufacturer.
Also if you buy Colt make sure it is a true M16/M16A1 or make sure if it is a SP1 conversion that it was done by a reputable manufacturer.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
There is not really a good reason to buy an M16 conversion, given that there are so many factory original M16s.
The risk is much higher - they may even be rewelded, Bondo(R)ed, and sanded then painted over, which is horrible for aluminum.
There is not really a good reason to buy an M16 conversion, given that there are so many factory original M16s.
The risk is much higher - they may even be rewelded, Bondo(R)ed, and sanded then painted over, which is horrible for aluminum.
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
If you want a shooter the conversion guns are a good way to go. The difference between a reweld and conversion is usually pretty obvious to anyone who knows anything so the likelyhood of finding bondo or welds in a conversion are pretty small. The price difference between a conversion and an original Colt factory MG can be big and the savings will buy a lot of ammo as well as a nice suppressor. On the other hand the Colts tend to be easier to sell as they are "collectable" more than the conversions. Most of the conversions were done on lower receivers that were available prior to 1986 and the most important thing to watch out for is wear on the holes where the pins to the trigger and hammer are. Also you should check to make sure the trip sear pin holes are in the right place. If you're going to spend $10 to 15K on a machinegun buy a plane ticket and go see it in person. Pictures may or may not show stuff that you will see in person and they won't give you a "feel" for the gun. There are a number of really good gunboards for machineguns that can help you answer questions about the differences between makers, converters and even the welders. John Norrell did some wonderful rewelds of original military M16's and despite some skeptics they are very well done and shootable. Check out Subguns.com, Sturmgewehr.com, AR15.com . There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on those boards who can help.
Frank
If you want a shooter the conversion guns are a good way to go. The difference between a reweld and conversion is usually pretty obvious to anyone who knows anything so the likelyhood of finding bondo or welds in a conversion are pretty small. The price difference between a conversion and an original Colt factory MG can be big and the savings will buy a lot of ammo as well as a nice suppressor. On the other hand the Colts tend to be easier to sell as they are "collectable" more than the conversions. Most of the conversions were done on lower receivers that were available prior to 1986 and the most important thing to watch out for is wear on the holes where the pins to the trigger and hammer are. Also you should check to make sure the trip sear pin holes are in the right place. If you're going to spend $10 to 15K on a machinegun buy a plane ticket and go see it in person. Pictures may or may not show stuff that you will see in person and they won't give you a "feel" for the gun. There are a number of really good gunboards for machineguns that can help you answer questions about the differences between makers, converters and even the welders. John Norrell did some wonderful rewelds of original military M16's and despite some skeptics they are very well done and shootable. Check out Subguns.com, Sturmgewehr.com, AR15.com . There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on those boards who can help.
Frank
Re: Questions about purchasing a full auto SBR
Best advice I have is take your time, put the word out, and when you find a good deal on what you want don't hesitate or it will be gone. Last year I picked up a like new "Colt M16-A1" for $12,000 in the middle of the night. There were 8 other people waiting to buy it in the morning but I got in first. Lots of fun and also runs full-auto in 22cal. with the right ammo.
Best advice I have is take your time, put the word out, and when you find a good deal on what you want don't hesitate or it will be gone. Last year I picked up a like new "Colt M16-A1" for $12,000 in the middle of the night. There were 8 other people waiting to buy it in the morning but I got in first. Lots of fun and also runs full-auto in 22cal. with the right ammo.
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