Suppressors Quick Detach Dead Air

D

DocRDS

Head Maffs Monkey
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2012
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The Great Beyond
#1
Using my Dead Air Sandman--had a rough start--now its doing just great. One problem:

That bastard stays on the mount NO MATTER WHAT. Removing it last night un-torqued my muzzle break--even after I let it cool. I tried to do my reading before posting stupid dumb repeats, but it appears red-loctite or rockset will be nessecary on the muzzle device. Is there any way to avoid this? Its not that I am opposed to using loctite, just I thought I properly torqued device I would be able to attach and detach with no issue.

Also it appears my shims get wrecked to hell (bent up almost onto the flats) by the wrench in the flats area (its only it the flats)--normal or no?

IMG_20201101_160516853.png
 
#4
I think they are recent as I just got the new brake from capital armory. my previous brake/supressor was a PITA--Supressor got RMA'd and for $75 I just went with a new brake. 20 ft lbs
 
#7
Ahh--sorry showing my ignorance--its a BP listed. --it did get a new core in the RMA this year--not sure if that would change things. I generally have to use a big wrench to knock it loose after firing (knock is probably bad term--get enough leverage). After things heat up from firing its on there DONE SOLID.
 
#8
You may have the mount problem then... once cool it should release without issue. If it’s not that’s a bad sign.

If you mount it and then go to unmount it without shooting is it difficult to remove then or just after shooting?
 
#14
Viper1973 said:
You might try an anti seize on the mount. Something like this as a preventative:
www.griffinarmament.com

Suppressor Anti Seize 2300f

Griffin Armament is an industry leading manufacturer of suppressors, firearms, and parts for discriminating end users
www.griffinarmament.com www.griffinarmament.com

I use this on my TBAC and it makes removal a lot easier.
Click to expand...

Really appreciate your help troubleshooting on this--was wondering if that might be an answer.
 
#15
I'm really thinking you got a tight bpi mount unfortunately. Mine pop on and off so easy but I know 100% I got good mounts and brakes
 
Last edited:
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#16
Yeah its kinda been my luck with this thing--its had its kinks that for sure. Just want to eliminate ID-10-T errors. When I've already had to RMA the can, you can see why at this point I might be questioning the hardware, but I usually assume its me. I'm learning a lot about suppressors--quite painfully!

Again--Appreciate everyone's feeback/troubleshooting help
 
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#17
DocRDS said:
Using my Dead Air Sandman--had a rough start--now its doing just great. One problem:

That bastard stays on the mount NO MATTER WHAT. Removing it last night un-torqued my muzzle break--even after I let it cool. I tried to do my reading before posting stupid dumb repeats, but it appears red-loctite or rockset will be nessecary on the muzzle device. Is there any way to avoid this? Its not that I am opposed to using loctite, just I thought I properly torqued device I would be able to attach and detach with no issue.

Also it appears my shims get wrecked to hell (bent up almost onto the flats) by the wrench in the flats area (its only it the flats)--normal or no?

View attachment 7460210
Click to expand...

Hi DocRDS. I'm incredibly sorry that you're dealing with this. The mount is definitely not designed to become so tight you can't take it off. In fact, it's designed to be able to be removed even after hardcore use, so this is definitely atypical.

Here are some things that sometimes catch out new users--but often work themselves out:
--Detent ring has very sharp detent teeth. These typically smooth out after a bunch of actuations.
--When brand new, there may be minimal lube on the parts. The fresh nitride of the mount can have a lot of stiction on the taper when tightened down. I'll put a light amount of lube on the face of the detent ring as well as the threads under it.

If some lube and repeated use don't smooth it out, then there's probably something going on that wasn't machined perfectly. Our new suppliers are doing a killer job of getting these made to a very high quality standard--and at very high volumes as well. In this case, it would be ideal to get it in hand to diagnose. Please contact our Customer Service line and they'll get you a shipping label and we'll look at it asap. Mike Pappas, an owner of the company, will most likely get hands-on with it. If I'm in the office, I'll be able to see it too. We'll need the suppressor along with the mount to diagnose it.

Again, sorry for the troubles. We'll get this fixed asap for you.

Best Regards,
Todd Magee
Chief Engineer, Dead Air
 
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#18
Appreciate the follow up. This is all very new and a very public learning experience--I will say you guys have taken care of me so far, and yeah supplies have been on the upswing. With the shims all bent, I had to order new ones, so once I get it re-attached, ill see if a good clean and anti-seize work itself out.

However, I did post a pic in one of our "off-topic" sections where I have a 0.15 MOA group that was shot with the can. So I will say--its working! I just need to get it on some other rifles!
 
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#19
DocRDS said:
Appreciate the follow up. This is all very new and a very public learning experience--I will say you guys have taken care of me so far, and yeah supplies have been on the upswing. With the shims all bent, I had to order new ones, so once I get it re-attached, ill see if a good clean and anti-seize work itself out.

However, I did post a pic in one of our "off-topic" sections where I have a 0.15 MOA group that was shot with the can. So I will say--its working! I just need to get it on some other rifles!
Click to expand...

Nice!

On those shims, we've been selling a really common shim in the market that is large enough to match the diameter of the back of the mount, but the wrench flats are sub-flush. I recommend using the flats over the forward-firing vents on the brake. That way they don't get folded over. We'll be moving on soon to a new shim set that is custom cut for our products.

You also don't need to go nuts with anti-seize for this mount. My go-to lube is Hornady One-Shot. It'll cook off after some hard use, but a simple spray on the inside taper and then the outside Key-Mount parts and it's as good as new.

Todd Magee
Chief Engineer, Dead Air
 
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#20
DocRDS said:
Appreciate the follow up. This is all very new and a very public learning experience--I will say you guys have taken care of me so far, and yeah supplies have been on the upswing. With the shims all bent, I had to order new ones, so once I get it re-attached, ill see if a good clean and anti-seize work itself out.

However, I did post a pic in one of our "off-topic" sections where I have a 0.15 MOA group that was shot with the can. So I will say--its working! I just need to get it on some other rifles!
Click to expand...

I got tons of shims homie. Measure the thickness and I can drop some in the mail to you
 
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