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Suppressors QuietBore 22LR Titanium Suppressor Build Review -***Approved Form 1 Required***
- Thread starter padom
- Start date
@padom
So I'm watching the video on the website for the 22 drill fixture and he mentions the fixture is two pieces. I'm looking at mine and it is only one piece. There is a line scored around the entire fixture but it is superficial and the halves don't separate. Did they change the design? I can't see the back side of his fixture in the video to see if it looks like mine would.
So I'm watching the video on the website for the 22 drill fixture and he mentions the fixture is two pieces. I'm looking at mine and it is only one piece. There is a line scored around the entire fixture but it is superficial and the halves don't separate. Did they change the design? I can't see the back side of his fixture in the video to see if it looks like mine would.
They seperate, try harder. I can see the pins that the top piece slides onto in your pics. Those 2 bigger holes are what bolt.the top to.the bottom...
Put the bottom in your vice and pull the top off if you cant do it with your hands... the bottom is the thicker piece with the cut in it.
I tried sticking a punch in the pins and knocking the halves loose with luck. I'll have to beat on it some more tonight.
Got them separated but it took quite a bit of force. These titanium cups are crazy hard to drill. Lubed well, tried slow...fast...took over five minutes to do the first cup and my drill bit snapped on the second.
Yeah, it took me about an hour to drill all mine out. The bit tends to grab as it breaks through the cup. It chipped one of my flutes on the last cup. Those short 9/32" cobalt bits are ~$10.50 at McMaster.
I drilled out multiple kits now and have had no such issue... slow, firm pressure and using a pecking technique, tap magic applied to top of cup and tip of bit initially and a squirt between each peck...zero issues.. jig secured in my vice and bit in my Milwaukee M18 Fuel. you're having a tough time over there.
That’s really rolling up a burr on the top side for it being a new bit. That leads me to believe you might be running it too fast or not enough lube. If you get the bits hot, they dull a lot faster
My Form1 was approved and I finished my can.
I noticed that the baffles were quite loose in the tube with ~.010-.012" of diametric clearance. I cut a sheet of steel shim stock the length of the can and rolled it around the baffles. A little tricky at first to get everything assembled but now I have a good concentric fit and a fouling barrier with the tube so I can push everything out even when filthy.
So far great performance on my M&P 15-22 with CCI STD ammo. I'm going to try the new CCI poly coated ammo and see if it cuts down on fouling.
I noticed that the baffles were quite loose in the tube with ~.010-.012" of diametric clearance. I cut a sheet of steel shim stock the length of the can and rolled it around the baffles. A little tricky at first to get everything assembled but now I have a good concentric fit and a fouling barrier with the tube so I can push everything out even when filthy.
So far great performance on my M&P 15-22 with CCI STD ammo. I'm going to try the new CCI poly coated ammo and see if it cuts down on fouling.
You will want to remove that shim so the baffles will come out for cleaning. Powder and lead build up in the baffles you need the clearance to remove them . The end caps hold them in place ,and the baffles swell some as you tighten the caps.
NHR I noticed the same thing but even with a little bit of play between the tube and baffles there should still be plenty of clearance with the 9/32" hole
I'm thinking I got a bad bit. The new one came today and it is working way better than the bit that broke.
You want to make sure you don’t heat up the Ti. Push firm and get metal removal. If you have lube and a sturdy machine keep going. If you have a drill press or hand drill just peck it repeatedly. If you have the bit touching and not cutting you are making things hard on yourself. It’s easy to go light on pressure and scrape the bit on the surface which dulls the bit and heats/hardens the Ti.
Finally received the stamp for the 223/308 trap. Got back from two weeks in China and within 3 hours from getting off a 19 hour flight I had the baffles and end cap drilled. I was very excited. I wish I had weighed it after drilling because it feels way better now. I will try and bring it into work this week to do so.
Took it out to the range the next day and installed it on a 20” barrel 6.5CM AR-10. Not my first choice since a gas gun will be the loudest but I still haven’t gotten the 3/4-24 threaded cap for my bolt gun. I was shocked at how quiet it was. I figured I would still need hearing protection but that was not the case. The 35 rounds I shot where very comfortable. Now it was a very windy day so I don’t know if that had anything to do with it and it was hard to get a good feel for the sound. The other thing I was surprised about was the accuracy and the point of impact shift. It was probably the best 10 shot group I have ever shot with the cheap $700 PSA and it was only 2” low. Very happy with it and can not wait to try it on the Desert tech.
It is an Advantage arms conversion. https://www.advantagearms.com/
It has been super reliable until this last weekend with the new threaded barrel and new ammo. Not sure who the issue is with at this point. I’m guessing it’s the suppressor ammo since both the new barrel and my AR were having issues closing the bolt all the way.
The regular CCI Standard velocity is subsonic out of a short pistol barrel. I would give that a try. It may give you enough pressure to run the action reliably while still being subsonic.
I've been using the CCI clean blue poly subs in my M&P 15-22 with no issues. Also shot 50 rounds of CCI Suppressor 45gr HPs with no malfunctions. These were surprisingly accurate. The Winchester 45gr solids functioned well but had garbage accuracy. Even from a 15-22
So just asking the question, any reason to not grab the 22lr can with aluminum internals?
If only for the ease of drilling/cost savings?
If only for the ease of drilling/cost savings?
Nope. Just gotta be more careful when you clean it. A 22 will probably never wear out an aluminum suppressor
I would love it if someone made a video of the proper technique for drilling TI using the jig. I believe the QB website video is of the aluminum cups being drilled. I don't have a press and I used an 18v drill and tried to do what the video showed...and my experience was frustrating to say the least. I broke the provided bit on my 2nd cup - it sheered ~1" from the cutting point, I purchased more bits and proceeded to burn through them, even snapping a few.
Well that's just crazy. I've done 2 kits now without a single struggle, issue, or problem. With the same bit. Milwaukee M18 FUEL on 1 speed setting.
Secure cup in jig, clamp jig in vice. Squirt Tap Magic into bit hole on top of cup. Apply Tap Magic to tip of bit. Insert bit in jig, apply even downward pressure and run bit at medium/slow speed. Remove, apply more Tap Magic and repeat till drilled through. Its that easy.
I've read this, which is exactly why I'd like to see it done in a video. I'm 100% convinced it's me and my technique.
If you’re shearing bits like that, then you’re most likely not drilling straight into the jig.
At multiple times, I double checked to make sure my drill was not in reverse. It was not pretty.
Your in MN, come on over and we’ll knock that shit out?
After drilling the 223/308 out it ended up weighing 1.77lbs or 28oz.
Forgive my ignorance, but does a proper "thread cutting" oil make a big difference for drilling TI, or would something like synthetic motor oil, or even various gun oils work just as well?
I recently got approved to build my titanium kit, I think it's a really good value. When I first put it together I had a big poi shift (18inches) straight up on my mkiv lite and no shift on my 10/22. I took it apart and made sure my baffle stayed aligned as I tightened my endcap and have had no poi shift on the pistol or 10/22. Hope this helps someone who is having trouble with impact shifts
I also had some trouble drilling the Ti 22lr baffles. I was using the jig, a cordless drill, the included bit, and Tap Magic.
On the very first baffle, the bit caught a little when breaking through the cup, and snapped.
After much cursing, I went to the local hardware store and purchased a Milwaukee 9/32 cobalt bit. I was able to finish all 8 baffles with that bit, but it took a loooong time.
IMO: The drill bit that is included in the kit seems like it's a little too aggressive. It cut very quickly, generating big curls of Ti, which seems good until it catches and snaps.
The Milwaukee bit I replaced it with cut very slowly. Even with a lot more downward pressure than I used with the original bit, it would only cut little flecks of Ti.
I bet it took over 2 hours to drill those 8 baffles. Luckily I had some rifles to clean, so I would run it until it started to heat up, then pull out and let it cool off, do some rifle cleaning, then go back to drilling.
The included bit is probably just fine if you have a drill press, where you can keep consistent speed, pressure, and angle on the bit, but if you're going to use a cordless, I would recommend getting a backup 9/32 bit. I was thinking it would have worked great for me to use the original bit to drill most of the way, and then switch to the Milwaukee bit to do the breakthrough.
On the very first baffle, the bit caught a little when breaking through the cup, and snapped.
After much cursing, I went to the local hardware store and purchased a Milwaukee 9/32 cobalt bit. I was able to finish all 8 baffles with that bit, but it took a loooong time.
IMO: The drill bit that is included in the kit seems like it's a little too aggressive. It cut very quickly, generating big curls of Ti, which seems good until it catches and snaps.
The Milwaukee bit I replaced it with cut very slowly. Even with a lot more downward pressure than I used with the original bit, it would only cut little flecks of Ti.
I bet it took over 2 hours to drill those 8 baffles. Luckily I had some rifles to clean, so I would run it until it started to heat up, then pull out and let it cool off, do some rifle cleaning, then go back to drilling.
The included bit is probably just fine if you have a drill press, where you can keep consistent speed, pressure, and angle on the bit, but if you're going to use a cordless, I would recommend getting a backup 9/32 bit. I was thinking it would have worked great for me to use the original bit to drill most of the way, and then switch to the Milwaukee bit to do the breakthrough.
Here's some pics. The original bit that snapped, showing the large shavings:
Shavings from the replacement bit:
Shavings from the replacement bit:
Has anyone been in contact with Preston lately? I sent a booster back for refund and he hasn't replied or answered his phone.
