Gunsmithing RANT: Threadlocker from factory

[_Windrider_]

Quick backstory......ordered an ambi safety from LMT Defense. It comes in two pieces with a hex screw to assemble once in the lower.

WHY DO THEY SEND THESE SCREWS WITH THAT CAKED ON GARBAGE THREADLOCKER!!? Magpul uses the same trash. its so thick and so hard (no homo) the screw wont even advance through it. just send it with no locker on it and ill use my own thank you very much.

Now, what have you used to succesfully remove this shit?

 

[Cheyenne Bodie]

Blow torch. No shit. Get it hot, it crumbles.

 

[_Windrider_]

Blow torch. No shit. Get it hot, it crumbles.

do i need to go full torch or would a handheld butane torch get it hot enough?

 

[cornhusker86]

do i need to go full torch or would a handheld butane torch get it hot enough?

Butane will work, but oxy-acetylene with a rosebud is faster.

 

[Cheyenne Bodie]

Butane/propane hobby torch is what I use. You can even use the same type at those gas stations that sell crack pipes and whatnots now cause all the dopers use them for weed dabs or whatever.

Get it only as hot as you need to for the seal to break, to avoid tempering the aluminium(?). Even if you do, that really only matters when the part needs to hold pressures or strain.

 

[TresMon]

Yeah just use a Propane plumbers torch (not all that hot in the torch world), or a (dimensionally) small torch if the screw is in the safety already and the safety is in the aluminum. Aluminum has a lowish melting point, and to make matters worse you don't realize you have it that hot till it suddenly and instantly falls out from under your work (flame.) The old trick in the shops is: just turn on an acetylene flame. Coat the alum. with the black soot. Then turn on the flame as per normal, with O2 and gently start heating the part. The very second you see the soot burning off, immediately take the flame away and bend the part or whatever you have to do. When the soot burns off. The alum isclose to melting temp, but not quite.....