I sure this question has been posted hundreds of times; however, I am new to Sniper's Hide and although I did a thread search, I did not find anything. Just picked up a new Browning X-Bolt Hells Canyon in 6.5mm PRC and wondered what the consensus is regarding barrel break-in. I have scoured the net, read multiple articles, and contacted the manufacturer for advice. And no two answers were the same. Each and every one was different...some drastically different from others.
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Re: New Barrel Break-in
- Thread starter Pillsbury Doe-Boy
- Start date
Clean completely before the first round. Do all the zeroing/shooting/testing the first outing, and clean it again after. Then treat it like any other rifle you have.
My prefered break-in method for quality barrels:
Step 1 - Clean the bore and inspect
Step 2 - Bash barrel repeatedly against rocks, tree branches or barricades until desired level of "break-in" is achieved
Step 3 - Shoot until replacement barrel is needed
Almost all the barrel manufacturers publish a break-in method for the sole purpose of avoiding 50 million phone calls on subject and readily admit (to those that will listen) that it is completely unnecessary.
Step 1 - Clean the bore and inspect
Step 2 - Bash barrel repeatedly against rocks, tree branches or barricades until desired level of "break-in" is achieved
Step 3 - Shoot until replacement barrel is needed
Almost all the barrel manufacturers publish a break-in method for the sole purpose of avoiding 50 million phone calls on subject and readily admit (to those that will listen) that it is completely unnecessary.
What happened to the sticky on barrel break in?
I just started a new barrel
My routine
Clean well
Shoot mild loads till it’s done speeding up, 80-100.
Clean it again
Drive it like you stole it.
My routine
Clean well
Shoot mild loads till it’s done speeding up, 80-100.
Clean it again
Drive it like you stole it.
Clean it. Shoot 5, clean it. Shoot 5, clean it. Enjoy your rifle. Clean it when you get home.
As you can see by the replies, you can literally do anything you want to the barrel to “break it in.”
Logically, if all these ways have worked for people over the years, then there is no way. Do whatever you want.
Logically, if all these ways have worked for people over the years, then there is no way. Do whatever you want.
i certainly don't have the experience of many on this forum.....what i prefer to do is follow the manufacturer's direction because, well one never knows. I copied this from the Browning website (https://www.browning.com/support/frequently-asked-questions/break-in-new-barrel.html):
For the first ten shots we recommend, if possible, using jacketed bullets. After firing each bullet, use a good copper cleaner (one that has ammonia) to remove copper fouling in the barrel. Always follow the directions listed on the cleaning solvent package or barrel damage may occur. We do NOT recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated. If you look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel. This must be removed before firing the next shot. Somewhere in the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue applications through shot 10.
If you have any ammunition left, you then may shoot two rounds and clean it for the next ten shots. This is simply insurance that the burnishing process has been completed.
In theory what you have just accomplished is the closing of the pores of the barrel metal which have been opened and exposed through the cutting and lapping procedures.
After following the procedure, your barrel's interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.
For the first ten shots we recommend, if possible, using jacketed bullets. After firing each bullet, use a good copper cleaner (one that has ammonia) to remove copper fouling in the barrel. Always follow the directions listed on the cleaning solvent package or barrel damage may occur. We do NOT recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated. If you look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel. This must be removed before firing the next shot. Somewhere in the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue applications through shot 10.
If you have any ammunition left, you then may shoot two rounds and clean it for the next ten shots. This is simply insurance that the burnishing process has been completed.
In theory what you have just accomplished is the closing of the pores of the barrel metal which have been opened and exposed through the cutting and lapping procedures.
After following the procedure, your barrel's interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.
Per Shilen. I have highlighted the important part (In my mind)!
How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel?
Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.
Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life.
How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel?
Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.
Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life.
Just re-read this... It's a factory Barrel it seems.
First thing I would do is have somebody lap the barrel. It'll go a long way to reducing copper fouling
First thing I would do is have somebody lap the barrel. It'll go a long way to reducing copper fouling
The best advice I can give you is to get a good one piece cleaning rod and a good bore guide. Always clean from the action end. Never clean your rifle without your bore guide. Clean it good before you use it the first time. Clean it when you get done using it and apply a light coating of gun oil. Dry patch just before you use it again. More damage is done with a canted cleaning rod than regular use. Barrel break in is said to be a way for barrel makers to sell more barrels.
LOL...bullshit
Go to Browning's site as follow their procedure. If they don't have one, then pick a semi custom maker and follow their procedure.
I just bought a Christensen Arms Ridgeline in 300wsm. They guarantee sub MOA accuracy, but you have to follow their procedure or they will say it was not broken in properly.
https://christensenarms.com/barrel-break-in/
LOL.........would love to hear how they know if it was “broken in” according to their procedure.
I stopped reading after this...
"However it is possible to lap the barrel after the chambering process, it is very difficult and can damage the throat or create uneven gas venting behind the bullet which can lead to poor accuracy."
If the person who Chambers and assembles your custom rifle has difficulty properly lapping it... Find another gunsmith
"However it is possible to lap the barrel after the chambering process, it is very difficult and can damage the throat or create uneven gas venting behind the bullet which can lead to poor accuracy."
If the person who Chambers and assembles your custom rifle has difficulty properly lapping it... Find another gunsmith
They have a crystal balland watch over every one..
No, those are large glass anal beads.
I did a limited break-in during scope zeroing. I did get a lot of copper out after 10 rounds, but none now. My 7mm mag X-Bolt Hells Canyon is a mule deers worst nightmare. I just shoot it until it tells me to clean it. I always do a clean after hunting season- just force of habit.
Gunsmithing - Objective research on Barrel Break-in procedures
After many email requests I thought I'd repost the research I did on barrel break-in procedures. In addition I also added a short overview on Internal Ballistics 101 to help tie everything together. This has been posted on many shooting boards over the years and has been modified as I uncover...
www.snipershide.com
