Sidearms & Scatterguns Recommend a Knife Sharpening Kit

W

WB300

Cranky Yankee
Full Member
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Jan 15, 2011
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#1
Opinions please...

I'm looking for a knife sharpening kit for myself as a Christmas gift. Budget is $200 or less. I do not have a workbench or garage for power tools. This would have to be something that I can set up at the kitchen table, then pack away when done. Use will be for various knives from a K-bar to my hide skinner. None of my stuff is considered high quality.

I'm thinking of something on the 200-300 grit for rough work, up to 800+ for my skinning knives. I don't baby my stuff and have been known to use them as a hammer, screw driver, and coffee stirrer, but would just like to be able to quickly put an edge back on without bothering someone else. Oh, and being able to sharpen serrations would be nice.

From my limited search-fu, there seems to be a lot of stuff out there. But without having much experience doing this, I don't know what is good quality or gimmick shit. What say the Hiders???

Will
 
#2
Look into this, you will add to it if you are normal, lol
wickededgeusa.com

Wicked Edge GO

The Wicked Edge GO is a precision engineered, manual sharpening machine. It holds the angle while both sides of knife are sharpened at the same time, creating a perfectly shaped edge. It's made from high quality, aircraft grade aluminum and stainless steel. The GO is designed to be portable and...
wickededgeusa.com wickededgeusa.com
I never could sharpen a knife, it is all about the angles. I have a WE, way more coin, and am not even at the good level, but blades are sharp.
Here, may help ??

Black Friday Sale Information

Would you like receive information about Wicked Edge Black Friday Sales?
wickededgeusa.com wickededgeusa.com
 
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#3
I wouldn't spend $200 for what you intend to do with it.

Best I've ever done was with a small fine whetstone, I got a KaBar so sharp it would cut 550 cord simply with it's own weight holding the handle by the end. Too bad it wouldn't hold an edge like that for long. I spent FAR longer sharpening it than it would hold that edge.

Samurai swords were sharpened by expert sword sharpeners after the forge was done with it. It took 2-3 weeks as I recall and they used various rough stones all the way down to fine grit applied with leather and finally face powder applied with the fingers (lots of sword sharpeners were missing fingers they say). So it doesn't take much money, just the right shit and the time to do it.

That said, I've got better shit to do than sharpen knives and I picked up a diamond stone 20 years ago and I'm still using it. It's a plastic block with a perforated metal plate attached and the diamond material is embedded in that. Just looks like a plate with holes in it, doesn't look like it'll sharpen anything really. They only get better IMO/E the more you use them though. I forget the grit but it's the fine stone, since I don't let my shit get that dull to begin with I never needed the rough stone and don't regret not hunting one down. That diamond stone was on sale for like $10? It wasn't much. It's a decent size too and makes quick work of knife sharpening. Few drops of water and you're off to the races, wipes down and cleans up with a papertowel or a rag. Doesn't take long at all to hone the edge that the stone is capable of either, it's fast (IME you can sharpen it all night long but that grit stone will only get it so sharp and you're done).

All my shit is sharp enough to shave with --KaBar, demo knife, Benchmade, doesn't matter-- but like you I don't own any nice knives really (I DID order a really nice one from Daniel Winkler but he's still making it!) though I do have several fine kitchen knives that need regular sharpening. I'd say save that money and get something else you want/need and go score one of those diamond stones or a decent smooth whetstones.

Supposedly my great, great grandfather had a pedal operated sharpening wheel that was smooth as a baby's ass and would put a shaving edge on a wood axe. Unfortunately it's long lost. Now that'd be worth the money IMO, I just don't think they make 'em anymore.

That's just my .02, the knife nuts will weigh in later and I'm sure they'll know more about the models and varieties out there. But a cheap fine grit diamond stone can get the job done very well for very cheap --one of the best "bang for the buck" buys I can think of I suppose.
 
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#4
Oh, I used to have a kit that had stones that screwed onto rods and those rods went through a guide that kept the angle. The guide clamped onto the back of the blade. Do NOT get that POS! It's designed for dummies or for folks that have a hard time with the angles but it doesn't work well at all. Just a heads up on one NOT to get.

The angles will come with practice. And you can always cut a block of wood to the appropriate angle (use a hard wood you can shape) and make a wedge that you can use when sharpening to help keep the desired angle until you get the feel for it, which does come with repetitive tasks like this.
 
#6
If your interested in learning to hand sharpen knives you can do it for way less than 200 bucks. You don’t need a wicked edge to make a sharp knife and truthfully it’s not worth the hassle to me, and I have access and have sharpened knives on one. Same goes for all the clamp in style knife systems.

I would get this bench stone for starters https://www.dlttrading.com/fallkniven-dc521-benchstone
This is an awesome stone and is all a guy looking to sharpen what you have needs.

Then get some some automotive sandpaper from 800-2500 grit.

Add a leather strop for finishing with some compound on it.

A little practice and you can make a really sharp knife with the above setup for not much money.

I sharpen many high dollar knives with the above over any of the systems. I like my stuff sharp as well. If it’s not easily popping hair, it’s not sharp.
 
#7
I struggle with sharpening knifes. My biggest problem is maintaining a constant angle. I bot an Idahone sharpener many years ago and it has really helped. Get the one with the 4 rods and 2 pairs of holes.
www.idahoners.com

Idahone Knife Sharpeners Official Site

Purchase the full range of authentic Idahone knife sharpeners, sharpening stones, honing rods and accessories. FAST DOMESTIC SHIPPING!
www.idahoners.com www.idahoners.com
 
#11
KME sharpeners. Very similar to the Wicked Edge but the clamp opens wider to accept a thicker blade and a fair bit cheaper. I have an Esee 5 that the blade is a full 1/4" thick, the WE simply didn't open wide enough to take the knife. I have been extremely happy with it and they have everything al a carte so you can pick and choose what pieces you want/need. With the components I have in my kit I am able to easily put a mirror finish on all my blades.
 
#19
I've had a KO WorkSharp for years. Does a decent job for sure and fast. But my expensive kitchen knives get sharpened by hand with 1000/3000 and 6000/8000 stones and finished off with a leather strop.... shaving sharp.
 
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#20
Kadams1563 said:
I have been eyeballing the Ken onion worksharp for awhile. I have a kitchen knife set that’s dull as well as my Benchmade.
Click to expand...
I can have all my kitchen knives and most of my hunting/everyday knives shaving sharp in the time it used to take me to get one knife good and sharp.
I've had a work sharp for several years now, use it to sharpen damn near everything I used to use a file, or stone to sharpen before
 
#21
I prefer DMT non-interrupted diamond stones. They make fast work of knife sharpening. I have extra coarse to extra fine. Most knives I am done on the coarse or fine stones. Gives a nice toothy edge.

if I want a further refined edge I go to the Arkansas black stone and/or the strop.
 
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#24
The Lansky system is what I have, tbh hardly ever use it. I don't even know where it is right now. 99% of the time I use a diamond file I got from the Ball-Mart for, like, $8. It's all about angle, pressure, and keeping your file/hone clean.
 
#27
Culpeper said:
BTW I use a verticle belt sander from harbor freight and use this method by a YouTube OG.

Click to expand...

Lol, I'd use a belt sander too if I could find jigs to hold angles and slide sideways. One drawback to the sander, you better quick and good, or use really fine grit belts, they are made to remove material.
 
#28
Fuck jigs. Just man up and hold it yourself. It is knife sharpening 101. I use a 220 belt and leather belt. I don't spend all fucking day sharpening a knife. Jesus in a Sidecar.
 
#30
Sharpen a high grade steel s30v, s20v, Elmax to a mirrored finish 17* beveled edge using diamond 200/400/800/1000/strop using a guide system and you’ll be absolutely blown away at the knife’s performance and longevity. It only takes about 5-10 minutes per knife.

Doing the same by hand or with a belt sander is comparing an AI with a S&B to a Savage with a Nikon.
 
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#31
Zorfunk said:
Sharpen a high grade steel s30v, s20v, Elmax to a mirrored finish 17* beveled edge using diamond 200/400/800/1000/strop using a guide system and you’ll be absolutely blown away at the knife’s performance and longevity. It only takes about 5-10 minutes per knife.

Doing the same by hand or with a belt sander is comparing an AI with a S&B to a Savage with a Nikon.
Click to expand...
No shit.
 
#32
Zorfunk said:
Sharpen a high grade steel s30v, s20v, Elmax to a mirrored finish 17* beveled edge using diamond 200/400/800/1000/strop using a guide system and you’ll be absolutely blown away at the knife’s performance and longevity. It only takes about 5-10 minutes per knife.

Doing the same by hand or with a belt sander is comparing an AI with a S&B to a Savage with a Nikon.
Click to expand...

Let's be realistic... 5-10mins per knife with those steels... maybe on short blades... and only if the knife just needs a touch up. It can take that long to just reset the bevel on each side.

And... a mirror polish does nothing for edge retention and is rather meaningless other than it looks nice to some.
 
#33
goosed said:
Let's be realistic... 5-10mins per knife with those steels... maybe on short blades... and only if the knife just needs a touch up. It can take that long to just reset the bevel on each side.

And... a mirror polish does nothing for edge retention and is rather meaningless other than it looks nice to some.
Click to expand...
Not to start anything, you are right on time frame IMO, but on the edge, the cleaner it is, the longer it lasts, that's a given. And going past 600grit on cheap steel a waste of time, touch them up more often.
Keeping notes eliminates resetting the bevel, or use a sharpie, if done right, one time thing.
 
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#34
goosed said:
Let's be realistic... 5-10mins per knife with those steels... maybe on short blades... and only if the knife just needs a touch up. It can take that long to just reset the bevel on each side.

And... a mirror polish does nothing for edge retention and is rather meaningless other than it looks nice to some.
Click to expand...

Piece of cake on a Wicked Edge, talking sharpening 3-4” knives. Rebevel, changing angle for sure takes longer.

Stropping to a mirrored finish is definitely sharper than not and a great way to maintain a razor sharp edge.

www.knivesandtools.com

What is stropping? Learn at Knivesandtools!

Polishing the edge of a sharp knife is called stropping. Usually this is done on a leather strop.
www.knivesandtools.com www.knivesandtools.com


Stropping - Worth it? Compounds or no compounds?

As a slight follow-up to my last topic, I bit the bullet and bought a ZT 0561 in celebration of my recent promotion. Now, I want to be able to maintain that factory edge as best as possible, and I'm forced to consider stropping after years of just using diamond sharpeners and ceramic rods...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
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#36
Zorfunk said:
Piece of cake on a Wicked Edge, talking 3-4” knives.

Stropping to a mirrored finish is definitely sharper than not and a great way to maintain a razor sharp edge.

www.knivesandtools.com

What is stropping? Learn at Knivesandtools!

Polishing the edge of a sharp knife is called stropping. Usually this is done on a leather strop.
www.knivesandtools.com www.knivesandtools.com


Stropping - Worth it? Compounds or no compounds?

As a slight follow-up to my last topic, I bit the bullet and bought a ZT 0561 in celebration of my recent promotion. Now, I want to be able to maintain that factory edge as best as possible, and I'm forced to consider stropping after years of just using diamond sharpeners and ceramic rods...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
Click to expand...

I don't think we were talking the about the same thing...

If you consider stropping creating a 'mirror edge' as stated in the first links then we are talking two completely different things... I don't agree with the use of the term and think the links are more misleading than helpful, but you will get no arguments from me against stropping. It has plenty of real world merit.



Milo 2.5 said:
Not to start anything, you are right on time frame IMO, but on the edge, the cleaner it is, the longer it lasts, that's a given. And going past 600grit on cheap steel a waste of time, touch them up more often.
Keeping notes eliminates resetting the bevel, or use a sharpie, if done right, one time thing.
Click to expand...

I think we're more in agreement than disagreement...

My previous post was not a comment on actual edge refinement (as seen by a microscope), but on using an arbitrary indicator like "mirror finish" behind the edge as an indicator of edge quality.

In a similar fashion I don't disagree that higher grit finishes in theory will cause an edge to last longer. At the same time I might argue that increasing edge refinement can actually reduce cutting efficiency... I don't think there is a right or wrong answer here as everything is very user and task dependent, but to me there is definitely a "sweet spot" for each person on the toothy vs refinement continuum.

I also think that a bit of caution needs to be used with blanketing cheap steels. As cheap stainless steels typically have high level of chromium and thus won't take much refinement, but there are some cheap carbon steels that have very fine particle distributions allowing for quite a bit of edge refinement.


@WB300 As partial recommendation and a partial jab at the wicked edge fan boys :sneaky:. The Edge Pro (link) is worth checking out.
 
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#37
Back to the OP. You just need a good Arkansas or India flat stone. Norton makes a good affordable one. Course on one side and fine on the other. You don't need anything up the ass to sharpen a knife. The level of overkill is bullshit on this thread.
 
#38
Culpeper said:
Back to the OP. You just need a good Arkansas or India flat stone. Norton makes a good affordable one. Course on one side and fine on the other. You don't need anything up the ass to sharpen a knife. The level of overkill is bullshit on this thread.
Click to expand...

I get it... you don't worry about minute differences in knife edges.

Yet, it's not really any different than spending all day talking minute differences in rifles, actions, stocks/chassis, and optics... do you hate all those discussions as well or is this different some how?
 
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#40
goosed said:
I get it... you don't worry about minute differences in knife edges.

Yet, it's not really any different than spending all day talking minute differences in rifles, actions, stocks/chassis, and optics... do you hate all those discussions as well or is this different some how?
Click to expand...


I normally take a big shit on the level of stupidity I see related to shooting on these forums too.
 
#41
Culpeper said:
Back to the OP. You just need a good Arkansas or India flat stone. Norton makes a good affordable one. Course on one side and fine on the other. You don't need anything up the ass to sharpen a knife. The level of overkill is bullshit on this thread.
Click to expand...


Having sharpened my share of knives on a wicked edge I totally agree. Stone, sandpaper, strop, done.

If you demand absolute perfection, by all means get the wicked edge. I’ll be in the woods with a sharp knife while your still trying to set your angle
 
#42
Lawnboi said:
Having sharpened my share of knives on a wicked edge I totally agree. Stone, sandpaper, strop, done.

If you demand absolute perfection, by all means get the wicked edge. I’ll be in the woods with a sharp knife while your still trying to set your angle
Click to expand...
Mark it with a sharpie, 3-4 swipes to find the factory angle, sharpen for 5-10 min, perfection. I can’t hold a consistent angle on a stone and it makes it a lot easier for me.
 
#43
goosed said:
I also think that a bit of caution needs to be used with blanketing cheap steels. As cheap stainless steels typically have high level of chromium and thus won't take much refinement, but there are some cheap carbon steels that have very fine particle distributions allowing for quite a bit of edge refinement.


@WB300 As partial recommendation and a partial jab at the wicked edge fan boys :sneaky:. The Edge Pro (link) is worth checking out.
Click to expand...
I'll concede on me not knowing steels well, I should have made myself a little more specific. We used to get on average 2 Buck knives a yr as quarterly safety awards, 110's, 112's, camo ones with what I call worse steel. These, take them so far, slice and dice, put back in the "to sharpen box".
 
#46
Lawnboi said:
Having sharpened my share of knives on a wicked edge I totally agree. Stone, sandpaper, strop, done.

If you demand absolute perfection, by all means get the wicked edge. I’ll be in the woods with a sharp knife while your still trying to set your angle
Click to expand...

Unfucking believable. Don't forget your torque wrench.
 
#47
Get yourself some Arkansas stone(s) and get on it. Everybody wants the short cut. I have 3 different grades and they work quite well on any type of cutting instrument. They'll never dish out like some other stones... Read up on the history of these stones, where they come from....uh...only 1 state....:rolleyes:.....and where they have been found throughout the ages. Much like penmanship, it's becoming a lost skill. Good luck and good shooting!

Doug
 
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#49
Culpeper said:
BTW I use a verticle belt sander from harbor freight and use this method by a YouTube OG.

Click to expand...


Professional knife sharpener lives about a mile away. He has several benchtop belt sanders. Restaurants send him their knives every two weeks. I've had him do a couple of large blades that had been abused. When I picked them up they would shave and looked like factory edges.
 
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