Reducing recoil on AR10

DairyDictator

Unlucky Bastard
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Mar 15, 2019
1,024
939
I put a .308 AR10 together with mostly Aero Precision parts and the thing kicks like a son of a bitch. Feeding and ejection are 100% reliable. It doubles as a brush gun and sometimes must be shot without ear pro. I have an A2 birdcage on there now and would really not have to put a brake on it, however it's my last resort. Are there any other ways of reducing recoil in major ways like playing with an adjustable gas system or playing with buffer weight or am I really relegated to a brake?

Aero Precision M5E1 Builder Set
AP BCG
AP Buffer, tube, and spring (6 pos. collapsible)
Wilson Combat 18" barrel
Magpul ACS-L Stock
 
I have a Ruger SR762 and with no shoulder pad it definitely gets your attention. A good pad helps quite a bit.

My brother has a couple AR10's and he says a brake is unbelievably effective on recoil reduction.

I have a YHM can in jail and it's adapter is also a brake so some day I'll find out firsthand. ?
 
Muzzle Brake
Limb saver stock pad
Adjustable gas block
Buffer spring and buffer weights
Low mass BCG

Pretty much the only things that will effect recoil felt. Brake and Limbsaver being no brainers. All the others require some tweaking and experimentation.

Where does your brass fly when you fire? direction muzzle pointing being 12oclock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: N-C and marthini
A Geissele Super 42 buffer/spring or JP SCS and a good adjustable gas block like a Superlative does wonders. A suppressor or brake is still your best bet. In addition to the buffer and adjustable gas block I'd get a good self timing brake like the APA or something and run it when you're just shooting and pop the flash hider on when you need to use it as a brush gun. Then the day you turn 21 I'd go to you closest Q dealer and buy a Trash Panda.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alarka
What buffer weight are you running? Carbine tube or rifle?

Adjustable gas and at least a H3 buffer with the right spring will really help.

What stock is on it? Magpul makes pads for most stocks.


A brake with external threads and a blast shield is an option, add a can when you can afford it.
 
Last edited:
I put a .308 AR10 together with mostly Aero Precision parts and the thing kicks like a son of a bitch. Feeding and ejection are 100% reliable. It doubles as a brush gun and sometimes must be shot without ear pro. I have an A2 birdcage on there now and would really not have to put a brake on it, however it's my last resort. Are there any other ways of reducing recoil in major ways like playing with an adjustable gas system or playing with buffer weight or am I really relegated to a brake?

Aero Precision M5E1 Builder Set
AP BCG
AP Buffer, tube, and spring (6 pos. collapsible)
Wilson Combat 18" barrel
Magpul ACS-L Stock

Try and adjustable gas block, heavy JP Silent Captured Spring, muzzle brake + blast deflector combo and apply for your suppressor to replace the blast piece asap. Adjustable gas and SCS will reduce recoil a good bit but the muzzle break is where most of your recoil reduction will come in.

You might also consider something like Surefire plugs or even active ear pro if your budget allows that you can keep in and carry on normal conversations. You aren't doing future you any favors by shooting a 308 without earpro, even with only an A2.
 
I've played with them in small frame ar's and didnt notice a huge difference. Wasnt sure if I could reduce it that much with just a gas block while still giving it enough gas to cycle.

The Large Frame AR will be VERY noticeably softer shooting with a properly tuned Adj. Gb.... I use SLR's

I haven't done a LtWt BCG etc version.... mine all have heavy buffers and Tubbs .308 recoil springs, and a Lantac Muzzle brakes.

The "heavy" version has worked very well for me.

Sounds like I am going to have to splurge on a LtWt build and see what I have been missing.

And no fooling on a better recoil pad...
https://www.nokick.com/Limbsaver_Recoil_Pad_for_Magpul_Collapsible_Stocks_p/ls-10025.htm
 
Last edited:
Here is what I did to my Aero M5 308 AR10 to make it feel like shooting a 223

I removed the Aero buffer tube and installed this tube

Spikes Tactical Buffer Tube - .308, SLAX500
2A8-RBT-BT308-SLAX500

I then installed a typical AR15 HEAVY Buffer (no typo here, AR15 buffer)
H3 Buffer (5.6 oz.)

and then to complete the formula, I added a Springco RED power spring
"RED Spring": EXTRA Power Buffer Spring,

I already had a Superlative adjustable gas block installed (this specific one allows some gas to vent out the front of the block when adjusted correctly)
I also had a VG6 muzzle break on it, but the real difference came with the new buffer tube/buffer/spring setup

my 308 shoots as light as any of my 223 guns now, I can shoot it all day
Before doing any of this, the thing kicked like a mule and after 10 shots I was done with it
 
Muzzle Brake
Limb saver stock pad
Adjustable gas block
Buffer spring and buffer weights
Low mass BCG

Pretty much the only things that will effect recoil felt. Brake and Limbsaver being no brainers. All the others require some tweaking and experimentation.

Where does your brass fly when you fire? direction muzzle pointing being 12oclock.
Brass flies somewhere in the ballpark of 4:00 direction if I remember correctly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2aBaC̶a̶
Just buy an ar-15?

cheers, sirhr
Really don't trust a 223 for whitetail and the person I built it for doesn't handload, know enough to diagnose problems, or even maintain his guns all that well, so 6.8 SPC, 22 Nosler, 300BO, and Grendel variants are out because feeding issues can be a pain but especially since its hard to find ammo for the damn things around here.
 
A 6.5 Creedmoor barrel will reduce recoil.
Really wishing I would have just done it that way from the start. I built it for the guy right when Creed was on its way up in popularity so it wasn't widely used in gas guns yet and when it was, it was blowing primers due to oversized firing pins, so I just played it safe with 308 since he wasnt going to be shooting further than 300yds.
 
Really don't trust a 223 for whitetail and the person I built it for doesn't handload, know enough to diagnose problems, or even maintain his guns all that well, so 6.8 SPC, 22 Nosler, 300BO, and Grendel variants are out because feeding issues can be a pain but especially since its hard to find ammo for the damn things around here.

Of those the only one that I've heard of(and experienced) feeding issues with is the Grendel. 6.8 would be a good choice.
 
What buffer weight are you running? Carbine tube or rifle?

Adjustable gas and at least a H3 buffer with the right spring will really help.

What stock is on it? Magpul makes pads for most stocks and on mine the limbsaver type pad on the PRS stock is downright cushy.

The brake I added to my CM big AR was night and day.

A brake with external threads and a blast shield is an option, add a can when you can afford it.
The ACS-L is on it right now but if all else fails, I'm just going to swap it for a PRS and throw a good bitch pad on it. As of right now, it very rarely gets shot because it just hurts.

Standard H1(?) buffer for ar10 and standard spring. Might have to check out an H3, adj. gas block and a geissele spring.
 
Here is what I did to my Aero M5 308 AR10 to make it feel like shooting a 223

I removed the Aero buffer tube and installed this tube

Spikes Tactical Buffer Tube - .308, SLAX500
2A8-RBT-BT308-SLAX500

I then installed a typical AR15 HEAVY Buffer (no typo here, AR15 buffer)
H3 Buffer (5.6 oz.)

and then to complete the formula, I added a Springco RED power spring
"RED Spring": EXTRA Power Buffer Spring,

I already had a Superlative adjustable gas block installed (this specific one allows some gas to vent out the front of the block when adjusted correctly)
I also had a VG6 muzzle break on it, but the real difference came with the new buffer tube/buffer/spring setup

my 308 shoots as light as any of my 223 guns now, I can shoot it all day
Before doing any of this, the thing kicked like a mule and after 10 shots I was done with it
Strange, can't say I've ever heard of using an ar15 buffer before. What made you use that one? Spikes recommendation?
 
Of those the only one that I've heard of(and experienced) feeding issues with is the Grendel. 6.8 would be a good choice.
Using PRI mags, the valkyrie (based off 6.8) was pretty reliable but the main concern for 6.8 was finding factory ammo locally since the guy I built for doesn't handload. I've had no direct experience with 6.8 SPC.
 
Strange, can't say I've ever heard of using an ar15 buffer before. What made you use that one? Spikes recommendation?
If an AR10, SR25, or Vltor A5 tube is used then the AR15 length buffer is the correct buffer to use. If the standard AR15 tube is used then you have to use the short DPMS 308 buffer. That's also how Aero Precision sets up their large frame guns, AR15 tube with a short buffer.
 
Strange, can't say I've ever heard of using an ar15 buffer before. What made you use that one? Spikes recommendation?


OEM Armalite uses a "Vltor length" carbine buffer tube ( many places sell buffer tubes that length ) , the added 3/4" length of the buffer tube allows the use a AR15 3.25" carbine buffer with a .308 Large Frame BCG.
Aero Precision uses a AR15 carbine length buffer tube... ( as well as numerous of manufacturers ) ... you must use a 2.5" 308 buffer in it. KAK sells a heavy weight 2.5" 308 Carbine buffer.

Your rifle will benefit from a heavier buffer weight and heavier recoil spring , putting in heavier parts will make your BCG unlock slower by milliseconds... and allow extraction at a lower camber pressure.... ( far easier on the brass ) BUT...

Ultimately, controlling the volume of gas will result in ( IMHO ) the best way to control your "abrupt" cyclic speed. The heavier buffer and recoil spring "helps" but the BCG ( regardless of BCG weight and reciprocating mass.. which you'd still like fairly light ) is still "controlled" by the volume of gas coming from the 308.

Most all I have seen ( 308 / 6.5CM ) AR's have been "over gassed" ( not a perfect choice of words, but ) ... a lot of times to the point of causing function issues.

Slowing the cyclic speed... with heavier buffers , recoil springs and an Adj. GB WILL change the "perceived" recoil impulse.

I say "perceived" because all your spare parts are really doing .. is spreading out the time for the extraction and unlocking of the bolt... and that will make that happen at a lower chamber pressure... and those few milliseconds slower is all it takes.

As mentioned earlier... all those parts have made my Large Frames shoot very, very softly I have no problem sitting at the bench shooting them ALL day.



I still suggest a Adj. GB.. seriously it is an amazing difference.
So much better, I run it on all my gas system lengths, stock setups, 308 caliber / 6.5CM ,and various barrel / barrel manufacturers and lengths.... basically EVERY Large Frame AR gets one.

And buy that sissy pad I linked to for your stock... I have one on every Magpul carbine stock... 9x19 PCC, .223 / 5.56, and Large Frame AR
 
I have pretty much the same set up except the barrel is a 20" Hybrid from Centiron.
What tamed my rifle was an adjustable gas block & a Surefire WarComp Flash Suppressor/ Brake.
If you watch the sales at Primary arms or Armsunlimited.com, you can usually get one for about $100

 
Everything mentioned here is spot on.

Definitely go with an adjustable gas block first. Then a brake like the APA Little Bastard or similar. If you still want to smooth it out more, then add a JP silent capture.

My 308 barely moves off target now during recoil after tuning it properly.