Yeah like I said seems to be hit or miss. Y’all got me jonesing for a 22GT or a 22BR so I gotta figure this out. Time to go to the sex shop for that vibrator I suppose.
Reload precision rifle on Dillon 650?
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Before you go make a purchase wearing a fake mustache and dark glasses; I use an old rechargeable Electric Toothbrush I had in my bathroom closet that hadn’t been used in a few years anytime I’m dropping a powder I worry might bridge, or when using a less than friendly powder in the Dillon powder measure. Works great every time.
As I am about to start loading for my 308 again, I have not been shooting much lately, it was good to re read this thread and see that it has not completely died. I do/did all my loading with one tool head though.
I’ve been working on xl750 for 6.5CM reloading. I am using two tool heads.
Tool head 1:
Station 1: deprime
Station 2: nothing
Station 3: Forster FL sizing die without the expander ball
Station 4: nothing
Station 5: Sinclair expander mandrel.
I’m not sure if this is normal or not but in order to get 0.002 should bump, I have to advance the FL die all the way into the shellplate. It’s really jammed in. If I want to fully raise the ram at the upstroke without any case, I do have to put in decent amount of force. The FL die is jamming into the shellplate. I feel the same force when I’m sizing the case but I’m assuming that’s coming from sizing operation.
Can someone shed some light on this please??
Tool head 1:
Station 1: deprime
Station 2: nothing
Station 3: Forster FL sizing die without the expander ball
Station 4: nothing
Station 5: Sinclair expander mandrel.
I’m not sure if this is normal or not but in order to get 0.002 should bump, I have to advance the FL die all the way into the shellplate. It’s really jammed in. If I want to fully raise the ram at the upstroke without any case, I do have to put in decent amount of force. The FL die is jamming into the shellplate. I feel the same force when I’m sizing the case but I’m assuming that’s coming from sizing operation.
Can someone shed some light on this please??
Yea no I never had to do that with my 20+ toolheads and I have a bunch of Forster FL dies....sounds like something is out of spec, probably that die....
I have the rt1500 Dillon case trimmer coming, and a floating Whidden toolhead for 556 in the mail as well. I went back through this post to see what I could glean, and what I had forgotten in it. I saw a lot of talk about sd/es single stage vs progressive. These rounds were done on the 650. I know it is a small sample size, but still worth noting I think.
I am going to be running two tool heads, Universal decap in 1, 3 fl size/rt1500, 4 Lyman m die. Will I need to neck size after the mandrel in the m die? I read that it flares the neck a little, what is the best option to fix that? On the next tool head it was going to be 2 prime, 3 powder, 4 seat.
I will be doing 308 and 556 for the ARs on two different 650s. I have one setup as for large primers, and another one setup for small.
I am going to be running two tool heads, Universal decap in 1, 3 fl size/rt1500, 4 Lyman m die. Will I need to neck size after the mandrel in the m die? I read that it flares the neck a little, what is the best option to fix that? On the next tool head it was going to be 2 prime, 3 powder, 4 seat.
I will be doing 308 and 556 for the ARs on two different 650s. I have one setup as for large primers, and another one setup for small.
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I ran your setup for many years 2 toolheads on a 650... I now do it all on a dedicated 1050..
But, the FL trim die gave WAY too much neck tension so I always run a 21st Century mandrel right after the FL trim die...
I then run an m die in my loading toolhead but yes you will need to run a taper crimp die after to close the flare/neck back to the neck OD back to straight
But, the FL trim die gave WAY too much neck tension so I always run a 21st Century mandrel right after the FL trim die...
I then run an m die in my loading toolhead but yes you will need to run a taper crimp die after to close the flare/neck back to the neck OD back to straight
What if I skip the m die and just run my Redding sizer die to only use the ball to expand it? And do that on the load toolhead.
On a side note, could you get the trimmer to trim to exact length each time? I just did my first 200 cases through it and was between 2.006-2.008 was wanting .0008.
My reloading room is a disaster, but I got a new bench built for a second 650 I got, used. It’s going to be set up for small primers. No more changing of primer tray!
Expander ball isn't the same thing... the m die keeps the bullets from falling off the case after your bullet dropper....
No my rt1500 is dead on.
Are you just kissing the mouth get it straight again with the taper crimp? I’m not using a bullet feeder, I’m placing them by hand into the case at the seating station.
What crimp die do you recommend?
I just use the dillon crimp die from their 223rem carbide die set... yes I'm closing the mouth back to straight.
Also, M Die helps with bullet shaving if you aren't chamfer/debur brass after rt1500
I’m doing this with 308win though. I do load a lot of 223, but I was more specifically asking about the expander ball being enough and no m die for 308.
It doesn't matter what the cartridge is really. If your using the rt1500 with a FL trim die everything I said applies...
A) the FL trim die gives excessive neck tension so I also run a mandrel right after it to set to proper neck tension..
B) the rt1500 trimmer leaves a rough edge and shaves bullets if you don't chamfer/debur your cases after OR use an M die. Doesn't matter if your setting bullets on cases by hand or with a bullet feeder..
I am about to order a full 750 Setup with 2 toolheads per caliber to reload. Trying to make things easier quicker than now with the turret press. Bulletfeeder, case feeder and all the upgrades. Here is the proposed workflow.
1. Anneal with AMP.
2. Clean/Wet tumble with brass cleaner
3. Dry in dehydrator.
4. Lube brass then dump into Case Feeder
Brass prep Toolhead
1. FW Arms decapping Die
2. Size brass
3.Mandrel Brass
1. Clean Wet Tumble, then Dehydrate.
2. Run Brass through Henderson to Trim, Chamfer and Debur
3. Dump brass into case feeder
4. Dump bullets into bullet feeder
Loading/Prime Toolhead:
1. Prime.
2. Powder through Die to drop charge from Super Trickler
3. Seat Bullet
1. Mark Brass and put in container for match.
Any issues or thoughts on the process? I just ordered a 2nd super trickler to keep downtime at a minimum since that is my limiting factor with loading. Will probably upgrade to an autodrive down the road to make it even easier/faster, but want to flesh out process first.
What do you think about these with the lock rings over the regular toolheads? https://www.armanov.com/shop/toolhe...llon-xl650-xl750-86?page=2&category=2#attr=67
1. Anneal with AMP.
2. Clean/Wet tumble with brass cleaner
3. Dry in dehydrator.
4. Lube brass then dump into Case Feeder
Brass prep Toolhead
1. FW Arms decapping Die
2. Size brass
3.Mandrel Brass
1. Clean Wet Tumble, then Dehydrate.
2. Run Brass through Henderson to Trim, Chamfer and Debur
3. Dump brass into case feeder
4. Dump bullets into bullet feeder
Loading/Prime Toolhead:
1. Prime.
2. Powder through Die to drop charge from Super Trickler
3. Seat Bullet
1. Mark Brass and put in container for match.
Any issues or thoughts on the process? I just ordered a 2nd super trickler to keep downtime at a minimum since that is my limiting factor with loading. Will probably upgrade to an autodrive down the road to make it even easier/faster, but want to flesh out process first.
What do you think about these with the lock rings over the regular toolheads? https://www.armanov.com/shop/toolhe...llon-xl650-xl750-86?page=2&category=2#attr=67
Nope BT need an M die as well. I run 2 1050 and 2 650's. Try loading rounds on brass after it went through the rt1500 that you didn't chamfer/debur.. still shaves jackets with BT. I load 10's of thousands of 55FMJ-BT, 62gr SS109 AND 62GR FMJ-BT.. the rt1500 leaves a nasty finish and shaves jackets if you don't use an m die/expander or chamfer/debur....
Depends... Some guys float their dies... Some float the tool head...
Personally the least amount of run out in my testing was clamping the tool heads using unique tek clamp kits so any ole tool head will work. I bought a ton of color coded billet ones from a guy on eBay real cheap forget the brand.
I float my dies with o rings and have never had them loosen once they are smashed down so didn't see the need with the pined lock rings. Stuff that floats on its own like a 21st century mandrel die doesn't need a oring... Ymmv.
The autodrive would crush the first pass but your hand even with 2 st will be the bottleneck auto drive or not
