what do you folks use for a reloading bench top. i built mine using 3/4 inch plywood for a top and that was a mistake. im thinking of finding a old oak door to replace to plywood any opinions
reloading bench top
- Thread starter 42769vette
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Re: reloading bench top
I used a product that was called Bonanza Board. It is a panel made of 2 x lumber. Pretty much a 60 inch long 2 x 36. It works well if you want to drill bolt holes for mounting. I like orkan's bench top, it'll be a summer project:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1622791#Post1622791
I used a product that was called Bonanza Board. It is a panel made of 2 x lumber. Pretty much a 60 inch long 2 x 36. It works well if you want to drill bolt holes for mounting. I like orkan's bench top, it'll be a summer project:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1622791#Post1622791
Re: reloading bench top
I use 2 sheets of 1" MDF board glued and screwed together. I would like some sort of covering on it, but it has worked better than I tought it would not being covered. If I spill cleaning solvents or liquid it soaks it up and swells slightly for a while. Swelling seems to go away. It is tough. Had it for a few years now in 2 diffrent houses.
I use 2 sheets of 1" MDF board glued and screwed together. I would like some sort of covering on it, but it has worked better than I tought it would not being covered. If I spill cleaning solvents or liquid it soaks it up and swells slightly for a while. Swelling seems to go away. It is tough. Had it for a few years now in 2 diffrent houses.
Re: reloading bench top
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what do you folks use for a reloading bench top. i built mine using 3/4 inch plywood for a top and that was a mistake. im thinking of finding a old oak door to replace to plywood any opinions </div></div>
Actually, it may be an easier fix than you think. Just leave that and add something better to the surface. Not sure if your local Home Depot has Doable or Parkland but they are shelving material. It would be real easy to have them cut down the size you need then attach it to the top of your current bench. This would give you a slightly textured surface that's bright white to work against so you can see small particles better. I assume that's why your current setup isn't ideal anyway. The Doable sheets sell for about $15 in a 4x8 sheet and they will even cut to your dimensions there for free if you don't have the tools to do so yourself.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what do you folks use for a reloading bench top. i built mine using 3/4 inch plywood for a top and that was a mistake. im thinking of finding a old oak door to replace to plywood any opinions </div></div>
Actually, it may be an easier fix than you think. Just leave that and add something better to the surface. Not sure if your local Home Depot has Doable or Parkland but they are shelving material. It would be real easy to have them cut down the size you need then attach it to the top of your current bench. This would give you a slightly textured surface that's bright white to work against so you can see small particles better. I assume that's why your current setup isn't ideal anyway. The Doable sheets sell for about $15 in a 4x8 sheet and they will even cut to your dimensions there for free if you don't have the tools to do so yourself.
Re: reloading bench top
my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press.
my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press.
Re: reloading bench top
The butcher block I got wasn't too bad. It is an actual workbech from Sams Club. About 30" wide, 6' long, couple inches thick, and came with a steel frame. Pretty solid deal. I'll have to post a picture of it next time I get the camera out.
The butcher block I got wasn't too bad. It is an actual workbech from Sams Club. About 30" wide, 6' long, couple inches thick, and came with a steel frame. Pretty solid deal. I'll have to post a picture of it next time I get the camera out.
Re: reloading bench top
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press. </div></div>
If you don't feel like completely overhauling you can probably sandwich a few layers of plywood or MDF then use a top later of the shelving board I mentioned. There's better ways of course but this would probably be the cheapest and easiest.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press. </div></div>
If you don't feel like completely overhauling you can probably sandwich a few layers of plywood or MDF then use a top later of the shelving board I mentioned. There's better ways of course but this would probably be the cheapest and easiest.
Re: reloading bench top
Right now the main bench has 1" plywood on it. I have been thinking of putting a laminate on the top and cutting a thumb groove around it. The smaller bench has 2" saw mill oak planed and glued together.
Right now the main bench has 1" plywood on it. I have been thinking of putting a laminate on the top and cutting a thumb groove around it. The smaller bench has 2" saw mill oak planed and glued together.
Re: reloading bench top
im not exactly sure what route i want to take yet. i know i dont want to fix this over and over again. my bench is roughly 3'x5'. im thinking about getting a few 2x6 bords and cutting they, then glueing some laminate down on top of that. it really wouldn't take that much lumber. 3 10 ft boards and im good
im not exactly sure what route i want to take yet. i know i dont want to fix this over and over again. my bench is roughly 3'x5'. im thinking about getting a few 2x6 bords and cutting they, then glueing some laminate down on top of that. it really wouldn't take that much lumber. 3 10 ft boards and im good
Re: reloading bench top
My benchtop is made with 2 layers of birch plywood screwed togeather, but not glued, fron the bottom. I then mounted it to my steel brackets, that are mounted to my wall. I then layed a piece of plastic laminate, or formica on top of that, and routed it flush. I then eased the edge over with a chamfer bit, and whalla. Doesn't flex, impervious to whatever I could possible do to it. Resistant to solvents. Easy, cheap, and quick. JPG
My benchtop is made with 2 layers of birch plywood screwed togeather, but not glued, fron the bottom. I then mounted it to my steel brackets, that are mounted to my wall. I then layed a piece of plastic laminate, or formica on top of that, and routed it flush. I then eased the edge over with a chamfer bit, and whalla. Doesn't flex, impervious to whatever I could possible do to it. Resistant to solvents. Easy, cheap, and quick. JPG
Re: reloading bench top
I use a wood working bench I made the top from hard maple 2" thick 2 feet by 6 feet. stable and works great.
I use a wood working bench I made the top from hard maple 2" thick 2 feet by 6 feet. stable and works great.
Re: reloading bench top
Right now my top is 1 inch mdf with 2x6s 12" on ceter and a 2x6 layed flat and notched into the front of the bench all screwed togeather.
if i have to do it again i would keep the base the same but i can get true 4 quarter rough cut lumber from a local mill. I would get some true 2 inch thick 4 foot by 2 foot rough oak and plane the joining edges and dowel them togeather and go to work with a belt sander to make it smooth.
Ive posted a very 56k hating thread about my bench. its 4 foot x 6 foot with 4x4 legs and the rest is all 2x6 with a 2x4 supported shelf underneath and 1 inch mdf over it all.
Most say my current build is overkill but the top still isnt right. I think i just need to add wieght which the top will do and i need to put some braces under the floor to bolt it to solid.
If you havnt figured it out yet what most consider overkill I consider practice. I like things that dont rock at all. I want a bench i can run my 550 on without rocking it. I also move things around alot and would like to build a way to remove the presses easily and still have a solid mount and a flat surface when im done.
Right now my top is 1 inch mdf with 2x6s 12" on ceter and a 2x6 layed flat and notched into the front of the bench all screwed togeather.
if i have to do it again i would keep the base the same but i can get true 4 quarter rough cut lumber from a local mill. I would get some true 2 inch thick 4 foot by 2 foot rough oak and plane the joining edges and dowel them togeather and go to work with a belt sander to make it smooth.
Ive posted a very 56k hating thread about my bench. its 4 foot x 6 foot with 4x4 legs and the rest is all 2x6 with a 2x4 supported shelf underneath and 1 inch mdf over it all.
Most say my current build is overkill but the top still isnt right. I think i just need to add wieght which the top will do and i need to put some braces under the floor to bolt it to solid.
If you havnt figured it out yet what most consider overkill I consider practice. I like things that dont rock at all. I want a bench i can run my 550 on without rocking it. I also move things around alot and would like to build a way to remove the presses easily and still have a solid mount and a flat surface when im done.
Re: reloading bench top
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orkan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take plywood, and layer it up to your desired weight and thickness. </div></div>
Kind of what I was saying and if you want smooth/white look at that shelving material I mentioned earlier as it's about 1/8" thick and costs about $15 per sheet for a nice finished look to the surface. Will be easier to see grains of powder when you forget to close the drain hole on your electric scale/dispenser too.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orkan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take plywood, and layer it up to your desired weight and thickness. </div></div>
Kind of what I was saying and if you want smooth/white look at that shelving material I mentioned earlier as it's about 1/8" thick and costs about $15 per sheet for a nice finished look to the surface. Will be easier to see grains of powder when you forget to close the drain hole on your electric scale/dispenser too.
Re: reloading bench top
I used cabinet grade plywood 3/4 inch. Has held up well. I used 4x4 for the legs and then built the top out of 2x12 and frame out of 2x12. I also tied it into the wall with a strip if angle iron atcross the top. Works for me. My bench is now two feet by eight feet. Just enough room for all of my equipment to fit comfortably without moving it around.
LBH
I used cabinet grade plywood 3/4 inch. Has held up well. I used 4x4 for the legs and then built the top out of 2x12 and frame out of 2x12. I also tied it into the wall with a strip if angle iron atcross the top. Works for me. My bench is now two feet by eight feet. Just enough room for all of my equipment to fit comfortably without moving it around.
LBH
Re: reloading bench top
in the mean time before reworking the whole top , if you have the clearance I would put a 2x4 or similar vertically up from the floor to the underside of the top just under the press<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press. </div></div>
ok just saw the other post that states the same
in the mean time before reworking the whole top , if you have the clearance I would put a 2x4 or similar vertically up from the floor to the underside of the top just under the press<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my setup isn't working because the plywood has to much flex when i am running my press. </div></div>
Re: reloading bench top
I used 3/4" ply with cedar 2x4's in the right places underneath for support.
I mounted the Rockchucker and Lyman Lubrisizer with 4" lag bolts through the stackup of ply and 2x4's
My progressive is mounted to 3/4" ply with a backer of 2 pieces of 1" thick Oak
The progressive is mounted with 2 thru bolts that have a 3 washer stackup to get more tension load footprint on the wood.
Several thousand cycles on each press and I haven't had any cracking, breakdown or crush problems. I've taken them off a couple times to move and inspect the integrity.
I used 3/4" ply with cedar 2x4's in the right places underneath for support.
I mounted the Rockchucker and Lyman Lubrisizer with 4" lag bolts through the stackup of ply and 2x4's
My progressive is mounted to 3/4" ply with a backer of 2 pieces of 1" thick Oak
The progressive is mounted with 2 thru bolts that have a 3 washer stackup to get more tension load footprint on the wood.
Several thousand cycles on each press and I haven't had any cracking, breakdown or crush problems. I've taken them off a couple times to move and inspect the integrity.
Re: reloading bench top
My bench top is 3/4inch ply and works just fine. My question is what kind of force are you having to use when sizing your brass? If properly lubed you shouldn't have to use that much force.
My bench top is 3/4inch ply and works just fine. My question is what kind of force are you having to use when sizing your brass? If properly lubed you shouldn't have to use that much force.
Re: reloading bench top
I built mine just like a kitchen countertop. It's two layers of 3/4" particle board with a high pressure laminate (Formica) top and solid wood edging. It's plenty strong and cleans up easily.
I built mine just like a kitchen countertop. It's two layers of 3/4" particle board with a high pressure laminate (Formica) top and solid wood edging. It's plenty strong and cleans up easily.
Re: reloading bench top
I used a 3/4" plywood that was already sanded smooth. I sanded it further and coated it with varnish. It is reenforced with 2x4's underneath.
I used a 3/4" plywood that was already sanded smooth. I sanded it further and coated it with varnish. It is reenforced with 2x4's underneath.
Re: reloading bench top
and I see you like festool also , they have great stuff
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tim K</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I built mine just like a kitchen countertop. It's two layers of 3/4" particle board with a high pressure laminate (Formica) top and solid wood edging. It's plenty strong and cleans up easily.
</div></div>
and I see you like festool also , they have great stuff
Re: reloading bench top
I built mine out of 2X4's for the legs and support piece. Then 2x6's for the top. Took a belt sander with a course girt belt and planed the top down. Took my orbital sander and finished it out. Holds up well.
I built mine out of 2X4's for the legs and support piece. Then 2x6's for the top. Took a belt sander with a course girt belt and planed the top down. Took my orbital sander and finished it out. Holds up well.
Re: reloading bench top
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperdude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">and I see you like festool also , they have great stuff
</div></div>
We have a bunch of their tools. Some are indispensable, some are merely good, none are junk. That's a lot more than I can say for any other manufacturer. Crazy expensive, but worth it if you use them everyday.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperdude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">and I see you like festool also , they have great stuff
We have a bunch of their tools. Some are indispensable, some are merely good, none are junk. That's a lot more than I can say for any other manufacturer. Crazy expensive, but worth it if you use them everyday.
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Re: reloading bench top
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/cldetails?mid=a459c84e582229f635a9f38c52ceb7e6
Three pages of 3D woodworker benches plans, you might get some ideas for benches. More complex that than you want for reloading bench but some ideas might be useful
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/cldetails?mid=a459c84e582229f635a9f38c52ceb7e6
Three pages of 3D woodworker benches plans, you might get some ideas for benches. More complex that than you want for reloading bench but some ideas might be useful
Re: reloading bench top
Has anyone used stainless steel for their bench top? I am considering having some sheets cut to bench specs if I can find it cheap enough.
Has anyone used stainless steel for their bench top? I am considering having some sheets cut to bench specs if I can find it cheap enough.
Re: reloading bench top
I use a little of everything, stainless, butcherblock, homebuilt..you name it...its still never enough!!!
I use a little of everything, stainless, butcherblock, homebuilt..you name it...its still never enough!!!
Re: reloading bench top
I use a Snap-On stainless steel top that is used for the top of tool boxes. They come in a variety of sizes and are very robust. They are 1-7/8 thick wood wraped in 16(?) gauge stainless. I reload from 6ppc-50bmg with virtually no flex. The nice thing about these tops is that there is a lip on the front that keeps brass, dies, bullets, or whatever from rolling off the table. This lip does require you to build a spacer to go under the press to keep it level when bolted down. The tops come with mounting blind nuts built into the top.
I use a Snap-On stainless steel top that is used for the top of tool boxes. They come in a variety of sizes and are very robust. They are 1-7/8 thick wood wraped in 16(?) gauge stainless. I reload from 6ppc-50bmg with virtually no flex. The nice thing about these tops is that there is a lip on the front that keeps brass, dies, bullets, or whatever from rolling off the table. This lip does require you to build a spacer to go under the press to keep it level when bolted down. The tops come with mounting blind nuts built into the top.
Re: reloading bench top
You can or you can try to find a local dealer. Price varies on size. You can look in local ads to see if anyone has one on a box that they are selling and see if they will separate the top. They are heavy but solid.
You can or you can try to find a local dealer. Price varies on size. You can look in local ads to see if anyone has one on a box that they are selling and see if they will separate the top. They are heavy but solid.
Re: reloading bench top
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cinch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The butcher block I got wasn't too bad. It is an actual workbech from Sams Club. About 30" wide, 6' long, couple inches thick, and came with a steel frame. Pretty solid deal. I'll have to post a picture of it next time I get the camera out. </div></div> costco has something like this sometimes
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cinch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The butcher block I got wasn't too bad. It is an actual workbech from Sams Club. About 30" wide, 6' long, couple inches thick, and came with a steel frame. Pretty solid deal. I'll have to post a picture of it next time I get the camera out. </div></div> costco has something like this sometimes
Re: reloading bench top
You can order them straight from snap on. But you'll get raped in shipping. Go to thier website and find a dealer for your area and give em a call. Will cost 2-300. I have one ontop I'm my krl box at work. Wouldn't use it for reloading. But to each his own
You can order them straight from snap on. But you'll get raped in shipping. Go to thier website and find a dealer for your area and give em a call. Will cost 2-300. I have one ontop I'm my krl box at work. Wouldn't use it for reloading. But to each his own
Re: reloading bench top
1 1/4 in plywood Sturdi Floor. When I build 2 story houses this is what we use for the upstairs sub floor
1 1/4 in plywood Sturdi Floor. When I build 2 story houses this is what we use for the upstairs sub floor
