Long story but I need help and advice.... So April 13th I shot a match with my semi custom 700. I was having several FTE problems with it most of the time I had to pull the mag out and finger bang the action to get the fired case out. On April 16th I took it to a local business ( I'm not going to name) to get it fixed. They ordered spring stock and couldn't get it to work 100%. They sent the bolt to the main shop in a different state when I decided to get a M16 extractor put in. The machinist won't prrform the work because of the cut from the sako style that's already there. The guy I spoke with says to get a new bolt with the M16 already installed but I'll have to get my barrel head spaced to the bolt. I don't want to take my barrel off so that's not really a option but if last resort will be. So main question is what would be good fix for my problem?Obviously you haven't seen the bolt and extractor so it's hard to say. Also with the Rem 700 bolt being 3 pieces would a M16 extractor have negative effects when considering strengh? The business that has my rifle has never once called me but I have called several times for updates. I would have thought that when the machinist decided he wouldn't preform the work that they'd call me to discuss what options I have they never called me I called them today to find out this information. They've had my rifle for nearly 2 months and nothing has been done to fix the problem. I'm getting fed up and wanting to pick it up weather it's finished or not and use a different smith. What are your thoughts on what to do with a sako style extractor? Different detent and spring? Pour lead in the hole to "fix" it? At this point I just want it to work and for me to shoot the damn thing.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Gunsmithing Rem. 700 help/ rant
- Thread starter HCICVOGT
- Start date
You seem to box yourself into a corner with your self imposed limitations.
The folks at LRI ARE YOUR FRIENDS.
I have seen more issues with “improved” 700 extractors than I have with factory extractors.
The folks at LRI ARE YOUR FRIENDS.
I have seen more issues with “improved” 700 extractors than I have with factory extractors.
Correct me if i'm wrong doesn't the barrel have to be opened up for the M16 and the Sako doesn't ?
I wouldn't think so since it sits flush with the bolt face as I understand but hell I may be wrong too.
Get your rifle back.
Find a real machinist to fit a new factory bolt to you action/barrel.
Just because a "gunsmith" offers a service (extractor upgrade, truing, cryo-treating, heat-treating, unicorn dust imbedding) does not mean there was ever a statical reason for the service. My thoughts, nothing more. Good luck.
Find a real machinist to fit a new factory bolt to you action/barrel.
Just because a "gunsmith" offers a service (extractor upgrade, truing, cryo-treating, heat-treating, unicorn dust imbedding) does not mean there was ever a statical reason for the service. My thoughts, nothing more. Good luck.
So you'd buy a bolt from PTG and have the barrel head spaced again? Are there any reason you can think of as to why he wouldn't machine the bolt the first place?
Few "gunsmiths" will preform work on previously worked on items. A real Machinist may or may not, its a liability issue. I totally understand why they would not want to work on a previously cut on bolt.
The M16 style extractor defeats the greatly overhyped "3 rings of steel".
The Sako does not but lost favor early on in the quest for a better extractor.
The point I was attempting to make is that your bolt had a sako extractor installed to address a poor extracting issue. Now, your Sako is not extracting so you want the upgraded M16. Your having issue finding a real Machinist to perform basic work. So in a quest to eliminate further issue how about going back to the tried and true design. Factory bolts are cheap and readily available. PTG makes a upgrade, if your up to dealing with them. Either or will get you back to shooting fast. If one of my extractors on one of my multiple 700s goes out, it s $6.50 part to change out and I'm back in business.
I really hope you fine a quality ethical machinist to fix your issue. It sucks being taken for a ride with all the fly by night gunsmiths showing up due to the tacti-cool craze.
The M16 style extractor defeats the greatly overhyped "3 rings of steel".
The Sako does not but lost favor early on in the quest for a better extractor.
The point I was attempting to make is that your bolt had a sako extractor installed to address a poor extracting issue. Now, your Sako is not extracting so you want the upgraded M16. Your having issue finding a real Machinist to perform basic work. So in a quest to eliminate further issue how about going back to the tried and true design. Factory bolts are cheap and readily available. PTG makes a upgrade, if your up to dealing with them. Either or will get you back to shooting fast. If one of my extractors on one of my multiple 700s goes out, it s $6.50 part to change out and I'm back in business.
I really hope you fine a quality ethical machinist to fix your issue. It sucks being taken for a ride with all the fly by night gunsmiths showing up due to the tacti-cool craze.
agree 100% with 1st reply on here. send it to LRI. Not sure where about in the country you are located but there are several reputable vendors here on the hide and one has to be rather close to you if you prefer.
It may be impacting the scope and then falling back into the action.
Likely an adjustment to the ejector, or the addition of a second ejector will remedy the problem.
Again, LRI is an excellent source to talk to and they can do the work on your bolt without the rife.
Remove the scope and base. I've had some issues with the cartridge hitting the bottom of the scope base causing FTE. If that doesn't work, send to LRI.
Sako and Mini M16 extractors are guaranteed to make your ejection angle too high which usually ends up getting your case bouncing off the scope, etc. and back into the port. Reason is that the factory ejector is positioned to push the case off of the bolt and out of the action with the extractor tooth in line with the right lug. The Sako/M16 have to get above that lug and the changed relation to the ejector sends the case where you don't want it.
Most aftermarket bolts that come with the larger extractors have already changed the location of the ejector to keep everything flying where it should.
Get it back and send it to some place that knows what's up.
./
Most aftermarket bolts that come with the larger extractors have already changed the location of the ejector to keep everything flying where it should.
Get it back and send it to some place that knows what's up.
./
Mr Cross
I think Mr Dixon does a double ejector to overcome the issue you mentioned. Also, pretty sure LRI doesnt do Sako anymore, just m16 which he is making himself.
I think Mr Dixon does a double ejector to overcome the issue you mentioned. Also, pretty sure LRI doesnt do Sako anymore, just m16 which he is making himself.
Chad Dixon, he is regularly on the forum, especially the gunsmithing forum.
here ya go:
ha ha you beat me to it
ha ha you beat me to it
Mr Dixon and his wife own LRI.
Chad is his first name.
Mr Cross who posted here is also top end and a legend and would not hesitate to have him do any work.
I know he is a busy guy with contract work and I believe a smaller shop.
I would also say Chad seems to like fixing stuff. He posts threads about it that i think are cool as heck.
Chad is his first name.
Mr Cross who posted here is also top end and a legend and would not hesitate to have him do any work.
I know he is a busy guy with contract work and I believe a smaller shop.
I would also say Chad seems to like fixing stuff. He posts threads about it that i think are cool as heck.
First, appreciate the kind words from everyone.
2nd. This is the side of this trade I loath; The music stops and an unfortunate soul is stuck with no chair to sit in. It's bullshit.
We'd be happy to help. You'll need to send in the barreled action. Best case: I can repair/rework what you have and get you up and running. Were looking at 1-14 days. All depends on just how "murdered" what you have actually is.
Worst case, I have to replace your bolt with a new one. This is also not an issue as I have them in stock, OEM originals.
The tool packages and machine resources I have here make either solution pretty straight forward. The last part of this is you'll deal with me and me alone (meaning my business) from here out. There won't be blaming someone else if it doesn't meet expectation or whatever. If I take on the work, I own it from then on.
As I said, happy to help.
C.
LRI Extractor propaganda.
Edit:
Extractor stuff: This involves my opinion based on what I've experienced.
I do not care for Sako type extractors in a 180* twin lug bolt gun at all. They work just fine. This issue at hand is if you have a woops and sneeze a case. The Sako is retained by nothing other than a spring and some clever mechanical interaction. That said, there's no pin or under hook that will prevent it from ejaculating itself from the breech should a case ever violently fail. If you have one of these, roll the bolt into battery once and look closely at the ejection side of the raceway feature. The extractor has an almost line of sight avenue for escape. With 40-60 thousand pounds of horsepower behind it, count on it flying out of there. Violently. . . I know of two people that had emergency eye surgery for this exact reason.
Another side note on this. Because the reset spring is captured in a hole that runs parallel to the bolt body axis, one has to be VERY careful when having some additional work like bolt fluting. The wall thickness from the outer edge of the hole to the outer circumference of the bolt body is very thin. A cavalier attitude will result in penetrating this hole, ventilating the bolt, and ruining it.
Not cool.
By contrast. The M16 is retained by a solid pin. With proper heat treat, the extractor won't shatter, but yield (bend) under this kind of stress. The pin contains the "bomb" so that it has a standing chance of staying inside the breech. It may ruin the gun, but guns can be replaced. Eyeballs and face parts cannot.
Typically, these are both bells that cannot be unrung. Once you stab a Sako, the bolt won't accept an M16. The opposite is also true.
Edit #2:
The ejection angle issue. It's been solved. OEM bolts can now be modified to run to expectation. We've been at this a long time now and have done several hundred. It involves a 2nd ejector. Trim a couple coils off the spring so its not too hard to close, and your set...
Hope this helps.
2nd. This is the side of this trade I loath; The music stops and an unfortunate soul is stuck with no chair to sit in. It's bullshit.
We'd be happy to help. You'll need to send in the barreled action. Best case: I can repair/rework what you have and get you up and running. Were looking at 1-14 days. All depends on just how "murdered" what you have actually is.
Worst case, I have to replace your bolt with a new one. This is also not an issue as I have them in stock, OEM originals.
The tool packages and machine resources I have here make either solution pretty straight forward. The last part of this is you'll deal with me and me alone (meaning my business) from here out. There won't be blaming someone else if it doesn't meet expectation or whatever. If I take on the work, I own it from then on.
As I said, happy to help.
C.
LRI Extractor propaganda.
Edit:
Extractor stuff: This involves my opinion based on what I've experienced.
I do not care for Sako type extractors in a 180* twin lug bolt gun at all. They work just fine. This issue at hand is if you have a woops and sneeze a case. The Sako is retained by nothing other than a spring and some clever mechanical interaction. That said, there's no pin or under hook that will prevent it from ejaculating itself from the breech should a case ever violently fail. If you have one of these, roll the bolt into battery once and look closely at the ejection side of the raceway feature. The extractor has an almost line of sight avenue for escape. With 40-60 thousand pounds of horsepower behind it, count on it flying out of there. Violently. . . I know of two people that had emergency eye surgery for this exact reason.
Another side note on this. Because the reset spring is captured in a hole that runs parallel to the bolt body axis, one has to be VERY careful when having some additional work like bolt fluting. The wall thickness from the outer edge of the hole to the outer circumference of the bolt body is very thin. A cavalier attitude will result in penetrating this hole, ventilating the bolt, and ruining it.
Not cool.
By contrast. The M16 is retained by a solid pin. With proper heat treat, the extractor won't shatter, but yield (bend) under this kind of stress. The pin contains the "bomb" so that it has a standing chance of staying inside the breech. It may ruin the gun, but guns can be replaced. Eyeballs and face parts cannot.
Typically, these are both bells that cannot be unrung. Once you stab a Sako, the bolt won't accept an M16. The opposite is also true.
Edit #2:
The ejection angle issue. It's been solved. OEM bolts can now be modified to run to expectation. We've been at this a long time now and have done several hundred. It involves a 2nd ejector. Trim a couple coils off the spring so its not too hard to close, and your set...
Hope this helps.
Attachments
Last edited:
