Rifle Scopes Rem 700 Upgrade Scope Base to 8-10 Screws - Needed? - DIY?

__jb

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Aug 22, 2011
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I'm planning to put together a Remington 700 rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor for possible PRS shooting... I'll be using a fairly large scope... Something with a 34mm tube and a 56mm objective lens.

Is it necessary to upgrade the scope base mounting screws to 8-40 for a heavy scope like this?

I'm wondering if this Rem 700 scope base upgrade could be a do it yourself project, or if it would be better to pay a gunsmith to do it... The Badger V-Block is $200 and the tools to remove the barrel are expensive...
 
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In my opinion,

Is it necessary, no. Is it nice to have the added security of heavier screws, yes.

No, I would not do it myself, I would pay a gunsmith.

If it was me, I would run it as is. When you decided to change out the barrel, either a.) convert it to a hunting rifle, leave it alone, and buy a custom action and do a custom build, or b.) send it to a reputable gunsmith like LongRifles Inc and have them do the screws at the same time they blueprint your action and spin on a custom barrel.

I went through the same thing and went with the LongRifles Inc option. It's not a custom action but once they did their work, I have a sub 0.5moa rifle.

If I could do it all over again, I'd go straight to custom and not mess around with a R700 action. However, it shoots so good that I might just have them re-barrel it when I burn out the barrel. 50/50.
 
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If you're already sending it in to a smith to have the action trued, barrel work done, etc. then yes - get the rail screws done at the same time. Be aware you may need a replacement scope rail if yours isn't compatible with the bigger screws.

If you're not doing that, don't bother until you do.

Edit: If you're concerned about the heavy optic, I would suggest getting a scope rail with a built in recoil lug that interfaces with the front edge of the ejection port. Several companies make rails like this.
 
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If you're already sending it in to a smith to have the action trued, barrel work done, etc. then yes - get the rail screws done at the same time. Be aware you may need a replacement scope rail if yours isn't compatible with the bigger screws.

If you're not doing that, don't bother until you do.

Edit: If you're concerned about the heavy optic, I would suggest getting a scope rail with a built in recoil lug that interfaces with the front edge of the ejection port. Several companies make rails like this.

Thanks for the well thought out answer... As you can tell, I am very new to bolt action rifles... My plan is to buy one of Remington's 5-R Gen II 6.5 rifles... Planning to use a Seekins scope base because it has the recoil lug you mentioned and they offer models for both the 6-48 and 8-40 screws... It seemed like changing to the larger screws in the beginning would be the plan... Probably smarter to see how it shoots and then send it to a smith later if it needs additional action work.
 
In my opinion,

Is it necessary, no. Is it nice to have the added security of heavier screws, yes.

No, I would not do it myself, I would pay a gunsmith.

If it was me, I would run it as is. When you decided to change out the barrel, either a.) convert it to a hunting rifle, leave it alone, and buy a custom action and do a custom build, or b.) send it to a reputable gunsmith like LongRifles Inc and have them do the screws at the same time they blueprint your action and spin on a custom barrel.

I went through the same thing and went with the LongRifles Inc option. It's not a custom action but once they did their work, I have a sub 0.5moa rifle.

If I could do it all over again, I'd go straight to custom and not mess around with a R700 action. However, it shoots so good that I might just have them re-barrel it when I burn out the barrel. 50/50.

All good comments... Thanks for answering... I built my first AR-15 years ago and it shot well, but it took a long time... My plan this time is to buy a complete rifle... Was thinking if I could just drill and tap the scope holes and buy a scope base with holes for 8-40 screws, that I would do that... Seems a little more complicated than I originally thought, so I'll take your advice and hold off.

After reading up on the Remington 700 6.5 Creedmoor 5-R Gen II rifle, I thought it would be pretty accurate as it comes... Maybe that isn't accurate enough for PRS.
 
It is accurate enough to partake in the sport.

But honestly I’d rather start with a 300 buck bare action and build it up remage style for the price that a 5r will cost you.
Or get the 5r and new barrel after a few thousand on the factory if you’re up to it. I enjoy putting barrels on myself though.
 
It is accurate enough to partake in the sport.

But honestly I’d rather start with a 300 buck bare action and build it up remage style for the price that a 5r will cost you.
Or get the 5r and new barrel after a few thousand on the factory if you’re up to it. I enjoy putting barrels on myself though.

First I have heard of a Remage style barrel... Did a bit of research and found out they they seem to be a Remington 700 barrel adapted to use a Savage barrel nut... Interesting... Do most high end bolt guns use the Remage style barrels?
 
First I have heard of a Remage style barrel... Did a bit of research and found out they they seem to be a Remington 700 barrel adapted to use a Savage barrel nut... Interesting... Do most high end bolt guns use the Remage style barrels?

No.
Those of us that enjoy not being tied to a smith's timeline use them. It's easy to keep a complete barrel around for less than $500 and be able to change it whenever you feel the need. It's not a switch barrel, but it's garage gunsmithing made easy.


As far as the screws go, it's been my experience most get upgraded because the rifle gets dropped on the optic and screws get broken. At least that's why my 597 now has 8-40's and epoxy holding the rail tight.
 
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No.
Those of us that enjoy not being tied to a smith's timeline use them. It's easy to keep a complete barrel around for less than $500 and be able to change it whenever you feel the need. It's not a switch barrel, but it's garage gunsmithing made easy.

So the advantage is that you can adjust the headspace with the lock nut... Instead of needing a lathe?
 
It is accurate enough to partake in the sport.

But honestly I’d rather start with a 300 buck bare action and build it up remage style for the price that a 5r will cost you.
Or get the 5r and new barrel after a few thousand on the factory if you’re up to it. I enjoy putting barrels on myself though.
I totally agree. A bare action and Criterion or Shilen barrel from Northland shooters supply. Use their nut and recoil lug with their taper lock system. Slap it in a KRG Bravo and you have a kick ass rifle for about the same money. By the way Northland is offering Remington 700 actions with factory trued faces and lapped lugs for a darn good price. If you are local to Wyoming I’d gladly help you screw it together. I have the tools for Remington and creedmoor cases.
 
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I totally agree. A bare action and Criterion or Shilen barrel from Northland shooters supply. Use their nut and recoil lug with their taper lock system. Slap it in a KRG Bravo and you have a kick ass rifle for about the same money. By the way Northland is offering Remington 700 actions with factory trued faces and lapped lugs for a darn good price. If you are local to Wyoming I’d gladly help you screw it together. I have the tools for Remington and creedmoor cases.

Thanks for the good information... I do like building my own rifles... I built an AR-15 about 8 years ago and built two AR-9's to shoot in USPSA's PCC division... I just don't know a lot about bolt action rifles... They are more complicated than I was expecting.

I checked on the factory trued actions at Northland Shooters Supply... They offer two versions... .223 bolt face and .308 bolt face... They don't offer a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt face... Does that mean that I would use a .308 bolt face because a .223 bolt face is too small? Or do they just not sell Rem700 actions for 6.5 Creedmoor?

Also looked at barrels... They have several different barrel contours... Not sure how to choose.

Do all custom stocks have room for the Remage type barrel nut system?
 
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Thanks for the good information... I do like building my own rifles... I built an AR-15 about 8 years ago and built two AR-9's to shoot in USPSA's PCC division... I just don't know a lot about bolt action rifles... They are more complicated than I was expecting.

I checked on the factory trued actions at Northland Shooters Supply... They offer two versions... .223 bolt face and .308 bolt face... They don't offer a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt face... Does that mean that I would use a .308 bolt face because a .223 bolt face is too small? Or do they just not sell Rem700 actions for 6.5 Creedmoor?

Also looked at barrels... They have several different barrel contours... Not sure how to choose.

Do all custom stocks have room for the Remage type barrel nut system?
The 6.5 creedmoor uses a 308 bolt face. The barrel contour is totally up to you and your intended use. For a competition build I wouldn’t go any lighter than a varmit contour preferably a medium Palma or m24 if you prefer a little more weight. My son shoots a 26 inch varmit contour with an APA little bastard brake. It’s a good combination. Call James at Northland and he can help you with any questions you have. Damn good guy to deal with.
 
I'm running a factory Remington 700 varmint in 6.5 creedmoor that I bought at cabelas on sale for 400$. Leupold mark 4 20moa base. 6-48 screws. Muzzle threaded with APA little b g2 break. Timney 510. Manners t4. Vortex pst g2 Ffp in vortex precision rings. I've shot 3 matches so far and I've had zero problems. That being said I'm going to upgrade to 8-40 when I have the action blueprinted and rebarreled. My 2 cents.