Gunsmithing Rem 700P Bolt Handle needs repair(Update-All fixed)

[Harv24]

Just noticed the Bolt handle on my 1992 Rem 700P PSS is bent outward and partially cracked. Who should I send this too for repair?

 

[ZY100]

https://www.longriflesinc.com/collec...rvice-for-m700

Long Rifles Incorporated. Chad will fix it once and for all.

$115 and be done with it....but might as well get a tac bolt knob and cerekote.....

ZY

 

[Keith Johns]

Straightshotgunsmithing

He tig welds them on correctly and has done a dozen or so for us. Give him a call.

 

[LRI]

https://www.longriflesinc.com/collec...rvice-for-m700


I can have this in/out in a couple days. If you send us the barreled action, we'll set the PE correctly as well.



FWIW:

Since the GB we started in 2013, LRI has welded/soldered somewhere around 3000 bolts. You learn some stuff with that kind of volume.

There's a lot more to this service than just sticking a handle onto a bolt body with enough weld to make it "correctly." For instance, if your action has an RR prefix in the serial number, I can promise the Primary Extraction (PE) is about as wrong as wrong gets. Someone at Remington really goofed. They made a foundry change and the investment casting molds are not right. I don't profess to know why or how, but it is the reality were faced with. You can simulate this very easily by cycling the bolt and observing the relationship between the handle and receiver cams. What you'll notice that there really isn't one beyond it acting as a stop for the rotation. -the end of the "strap" portion of the handle is what is supposed to do this when it contacts the raceway opposite the ejection port.

The cam surface needs to be welded up to advance the timing and make the cam surface able to be machined so that it is tangent to the action. That is step one. The fixtures to do this do not exist. They have to be made from scratch. -something I did about 6x years ago. It is possible to fit the handle "to a number" or distance from lug abutment to the handle slot feature on the action. Remington does a reasonably decent job of controlling this on the actions, however the cam timing is something that IMO must be fitted on an individual level in order to get it truly correct.

I used to weld all of these myself. I'm a self taught TIG welder. I have a well vetted, professionally trained welder on my staff now. He's forgotten more about it than I'll ever know and his eyeballs are half my age... so that torch got passed.

In addition to the welding service we also offer a full menu of options and means of finishing. One stop shopping being the ambition.

In the 8 years I've been in business for myself I've had 2 bolts returned for a problem with this service. Both instances were totally my fault.

Happy to help and like I said; In/out in a couple days.

C.

 

[LRI]

Bolt inbound and were on it.

Thanks!

 

[Harv24]

Talk about Irony... I was excited to try my new Brake and the rds I reload (Both were awesome by the way.) I had to re zero after reinstalling everything.. (Only off 1" in elevation)

So I run 27 rds of various loads thru the gun at the 100 yd range... satisfied... I pack up and drive next door to the 600 yd range where I want to take a poke at the steel at 567 yds...

I get all set up...
Load my first 5 rds....
Insert the magazine....
reach up to close the bolt.....


Handle comes off the bolt and is in my hand.....

I'm done for the day.... that was a sign...
Got you email Chad... I'll be packing up the bolt.. the handle and the action and shipping it off to you tomorrow...

 

[WirgmanUSMC]

Man that sucks. I must have one sturdy bolt handle on my Rem700. Last match I had a few rounds that got jammed in super bad while chambering (headspace issue or datum line I think) and I had to borrow a 5lb hammer to hammer the bolt open. I went to town on my bolt handle several times that day. I inspected it thoroughly every time and it still looks good! *knock on wood.

 

[Harv24]

Well, in Remington's defense... the gun was built in 1993 and I bought it in 94... probably has about 900 rds thru it. When I started reloading for it last year as I got my long range itch back,, I had a few cases that were not sized correctly and I had to kick the bolt open a few times and I'm guessing That's what started the crack and I never noticed it until I stripped it down to a barreled action to have the muzzle threaded for a brake.

I paid $600 for the gun.. then $1200 for the scope (a 1992 built Leopold MK4 M-1 with Premier Mil dot reticle.

Shot it for a few years... and then lost interest... Precision rifle became a new interest.. so I had the HS Precision stock sent out to have it routed for the PT&G mag well last year... with a AICS 10 rd mage I spend another $300

Then I decide I want a brake... so another $125 for the brake and another $125 for the threading...

Now the Bolt.... I swear, this gun is like a boat....

Once I get the bolt back.. I'm gong to focus on shooting and at the end of the year.. I'm getting a new scope.... (Thinking a Vortex PST /Gen 2)

 

[thecontract]

https://www.longriflesinc.com/collec...rvice-for-m700


I can have this in/out in a couple days. If you send us the barreled action, we'll set the PE correctly as well.



FWIW:

Since the GB we started in 2013, LRI has welded/soldered somewhere around 3000 bolts. You learn some stuff with that kind of volume.

There's a lot more to this service than just sticking a handle onto a bolt body with enough weld to make it "correctly." For instance, if your action has an RR prefix in the serial number, I can promise the Primary Extraction (PE) is about as wrong as wrong gets. Someone at Remington really goofed. They made a foundry change and the investment casting molds are not right. I don't profess to know why or how, but it is the reality were faced with. You can simulate this very easily by cycling the bolt and observing the relationship between the handle and receiver cams. What you'll notice that there really isn't one beyond it acting as a stop for the rotation. -the end of the "strap" portion of the handle is what is supposed to do this when it contacts the raceway opposite the ejection port.

The cam surface needs to be welded up to advance the timing and make the cam surface able to be machined so that it is tangent to the action. That is step one. The fixtures to do this do not exist. They have to be made from scratch. -something I did about 6x years ago. It is possible to fit the handle "to a number" or distance from lug abutment to the handle slot feature on the action. Remington does a reasonably decent job of controlling this on the actions, however the cam timing is something that IMO must be fitted on an individual level in order to get it truly correct.

I used to weld all of these myself. I'm a self taught TIG welder. I have a well vetted, professionally trained welder on my staff now. He's forgotten more about it than I'll ever know and his eyeballs are half my age... so that torch got passed.

In addition to the welding service we also offer a full menu of options and means of finishing. One stop shopping being the ambition.

In the 8 years I've been in business for myself I've had 2 bolts returned for a problem with this service. Both instances were totally my fault.

Happy to help and like I said; In/out in a couple days.

C.

Nice work---Here's my solution after breaking a bolt handle/knob off.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i48.photobucket.com\/albums\/f227\/rgrxiniraq\/DSC_60812_zpsqnscexfz.jpg"}[/IMG2]

 

[Harv24]

Had to update and give a shout out to Chad and LRI... got my bolt back this morning (Sitting on the porch, with the dog, having coffee... waiting for the mailman....)

The work looks great.. should last me a lifetime (And the future grand kids as well).
I'll hit it up with some high temp Engine block black and off to the range to zero.... (He offered to coat it, but I'm a cheap ass....)

I swear to God... I won't spent any more money on this rifle.....

Thanks again Chad for the work and quick turn time.... your the man....

 

[Harv24]

All put back together.. The bolt was de-greased and painted with hi temp grill/engine paint...then sat in a 450 F degree grill (How ironic) for about an hour... looks great...

 

[viva la figa]

Well, in Remington's defense... the gun was built in 1993 and I bought it in 94... probably has about 900 rds thru it. When I started reloading for it last year as I got my long range itch back,, I had a few cases that were not sized correctly and I had to kick the bolt open a few times and I'm guessing That's what started the crack and I never noticed it until I stripped it down to a barreled action to have the muzzle threaded for a brake.

I paid $600 for the gun.. then $1200 for the scope (a 1992 built Leopold MK4 M-1 with Premier Mil dot reticle.

Shot it for a few years... and then lost interest... Precision rifle became a new interest.. so I had the HS Precision stock sent out to have it routed for the PT&G mag well last year... with a AICS 10 rd mage I spend another $300

Then I decide I want a brake... so another $125 for the brake and another $125 for the threading...

Now the Bolt.... I swear, this gun is like a boat....

Once I get the bolt back.. I'm gong to focus on shooting and at the end of the year.. I'm getting a new scope.... (Thinking a Vortex PST /Gen 2)

TRUST ME...I race boats for a living and guns are not even close to costing that much. ADD 2 zeros to the end of all those numbers and now you are in boat territory hahaha.

I just got done with an Olympic campaign that cost me $80k per year for the last 10 years. Not having that little note to cover each year leaves me a bit of play money for the guns.

Mind you.....that being said....I would not trade those experiences for the WORLD!! (yes the athlete village is as crazy as they say....and more...you only hear about 20% of the "tame" stuff)