Remington 700 SA .223 Wilde build

[GunnyUSMC]

I am considering building a .223 Wilde based on the Remington 700 platform. I am mechanically inclined but not a gunsmith. I want to learn how to build a gun from available parts without the need for a gunsmith that shoots great but I am realistic in that it will not be competitive against custom built variants. My goal is to have reasonably good results out to 600 yards.

I have seen one guy selling a Remington 700 barreled action on gun broker with a 26" .223 Remington barrel and without the bolt but not sure if i can get a new Remington 700 bolt for .233 to drop in without needing a gunsmith. I can get a complete Remington 700 action for .223 from midway but not sure if that will take a pre-fit barrel. I have read that the action really should be trued.

My last two builds cost over $5k each but for this build, I am trying to get the most bang for my buck without going all out like my others.

I am interested in recommendations on approach, sourcing (action, bolt, barrel), etc.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Now hear me out, orrr just buy something like this:

https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-supplies/rifles/bergara-b-14-ridge-sp-graphite-black-cerakote-bolt-action-rifle-223-wylde-18in/p/1737347

And then play around with the stock, bed it, open it up to take a DMB, add a cheek riser, etc...and not worry about Remington.

That 18" barrel has a 1:8 twist barrel so it will sling 77's to good effect out to 600 yards.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Go big or go home, Remington model seven is where it’s at.

 

[Char'ed Cuterie]

[...]Remington model seven [...]

Intermediate steps may have been removed for clarity.

 

[Easy_E]

The company selling the barreled actions on gunboker also sells bolts on another website here .

 

[spife7980]

I am considering building a .223 Wilde based on the Remington 700 platform. I am mechanically inclined but not a gunsmith. I want to learn how to build a gun from available parts without the need for a gunsmith that shoots great but I am realistic in that it will not be competitive against custom built variants. My goal is to have reasonably good results out to 600 yards.

I have seen one guy selling a Remington 700 barreled action on gun broker with a 26" .223 Remington barrel and without the bolt but not sure if i can get a new Remington 700 bolt for .233 to drop in without needing a gunsmith. I can get a complete Remington 700 action for .223 from midway but not sure if that will take a pre-fit barrel. I have read that the action really should be trued.

My last two builds cost over $5k each but for this build, I am trying to get the most bang for my buck without going all out like my others.

I am interested in recommendations on approach, sourcing (action, bolt, barrel), etc.

look into “remage”, you can use a barrel nut to home install a barrel with zero access to a lathe.

 

[Ronin22]

Go big or go home, Remington model seven is where it’s at. View attachment 8236843

Is this a parody rifle? I hope not, because I see the practical design, and although it is ugly as a mud fence, I admire it.

 

[Ronin22]

To the OP - Red pill or blue pill.

 

[stevieb92]

Best bang for your buck? This is the easy button and exactly what I would do.

Zermatt Origin with .223 bolt face from Paul at Evolved Ballistics
https://evolvedballistics.com/actions/zermatt-arms-origin-short-action/

Proof prefit from Paul at Evolved Ballistics
https://evolvedballistics.com/barre...fit-223-rem-26-1-7-twist-competition-contour/

KRG Bravo
Triggertech
Optic of your choice

There are plenty of other prefit barrels for the Origin action from other manufacturers, PVA, Southern Precision Rifles (aka Bugholes), Straight Jacket Armory, Blue Mountain Precision, X-Caliber, Northland Shooters, Keystone, etc.

If you are LE/MIL/first responder Paul at Evolved Ballistics can give you better pricing than what's shown.

I have no affiliation with Paul at Evolved Ballistics, I'm just a satisfied customer.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Is this a parody rifle? I hope not, because I see the practical design, and although it is ugly as a mud fence, I admire it.

It has a deep and mysterious history. It’s a great shooter and hits 600 with no issues.

 

[Rob01]

I am considering building a .223 Wilde based on the Remington 700 platform. I am mechanically inclined but not a gunsmith. I want to learn how to build a gun from available parts without the need for a gunsmith that shoots great but I am realistic in that it will not be competitive against custom built variants. My goal is to have reasonably good results out to 600 yards.

I have seen one guy selling a Remington 700 barreled action on gun broker with a 26" .223 Remington barrel and without the bolt but not sure if i can get a new Remington 700 bolt for .233 to drop in without needing a gunsmith. I can get a complete Remington 700 action for .223 from midway but not sure if that will take a pre-fit barrel. I have read that the action really should be trued.

My last two builds cost over $5k each but for this build, I am trying to get the most bang for my buck without going all out like my others.

I am interested in recommendations on approach, sourcing (action, bolt, barrel), etc.

Forget 700s if you want to build at home. Spend a little more and get a Bighorn Origin and put it together from there. Put on trigger of choice, get a shouldered prefit barrel from someone like Josh at PVA, and drop it into the stock/chassis of choice and you will have a great rifle. Also with the Bighorn you can change calibers by changing barrel and bolt face easily at home also so one rifle can be many things.

And yes they are competitive against anything as you are using a custom action and barrel. Will come down to you shooting it.

 

[flatland1]

Chances of matching a Rem 700 action & Rem 700 bolt and coming up with correct headspace are perhaps a bit better than buying a bbl'd action and a custom bolt from someone like PTG. Their custom bolts are made with extra metal on the backside of the lugs, and have to be dialed-in and cut on a lathe to fit the action. Then you still need to check headspace on the factory bbl. Even if you found an action and a bolt that will work together without machine work being necessary, there's still getting the bbl headspaced correctly to deal with. If you can come up with an action & bolt that are fitted to each other - IOW, primary extraction cam & lug engagement surfaces correct - then going with a Remage-style bbl & bbl nut would be your best bet for getting a new barrel headspaced correctly, but you still have to buy a go gauge headspace gauge to get the bbl adjusted for headspace.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Now hear me out, orrr just buy something like this:

Trigger Monkey, i hadn't thought about that approach. It would give me a chance to get my hands dirty.

I am not familiar with Bergara but it seems a lot of folk like them. The only concern is being able to re-barrel at some point in the future with a pre-fit.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[FredHammer]

Go big or go home, Remington model seven is where it’s at. View attachment 8236843

Now that is fucken gunsmithing! Love the wood mirage shield of many things here. I'd imagine you could sell this for a lot of money as a Hollywood gun prop for post apocalyptic shows!

 

[FredHammer]

look into “remage”, you can use a barrel nut to home install a barrel with zero access to a lathe.

This is the way.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Best bang for your buck? This is the easy button and exactly what I would do.

Forget 700s if you want to build at home. Spend a little more and get a Bighorn Origin and put it together from there. Put on trigger of choice, get a shouldered prefit barrel from someone like Josh at PVA, and drop it into the stock/chassis of choice and you will have a great rifle. Also with the Bighorn you can change calibers by changing barrel and bolt face easily at home also so one rifle can be many things.

And yes they are competitive against anything as you are using a custom action and barrel. Will come down to you shooting it.

Great suggestions. Thanks ... this is exactly where I am going with this build... buy the parts of choice and build at home. I started with the Remington 700 because of the broad support for this platform but will consider the other options for sure.

 

[Rob01]

Great suggestions. Thanks ... this is exactly where I am going with this build... buy the parts of choice and build at home. I started with the Remington 700 because of the broad support for this platform but will consider the other options for sure.

The Bighorn is a 700 platform so same triggers and stocks but gives you a much easier to build at home ability and starting from a custom build and not taking a 700 and trying to fix it. It also comes with a pinned recoil lug and a 20 MOA base which are add ons for a 700.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Go big or go home, Remington model seven is where it’s at.

what a masterpiece! I can see myself bringing something like that to an F-Class competition and shoot with pride. I think what i like most is the M-14 flash hider. I used to shoot the M-14 competitively in the USMC and that is my dream gun. I wish i could find a real one.

 

[stevieb92]

Great suggestions. Thanks ... this is exactly where I am going with this build... buy the parts of choice and build at home. I started with the Remington 700 because of the broad support for this platform but will consider the other options for sure.

For inspiration, here are a couple pics of my .223 Wylde non-shouldered build on an Origin. First shots through the rifle with zero load development. You don't have to go shouldered, a nut style allows you the option to fine tune headspace if needed.

 

[flatland1]

Rob01 posted his reply while I was still typing mine. I agree with him - why screw around with trying to find a Rem bolt that will fit a M700 action when you can buy an Origin action & prefit bbl? I've been truing Rem actions and fitting/chambering barrels since 2005. They shot good enough to satisfy myself and customers, but after watching Nesika Chad's you tube video showing his set-up in a 5 axis machine doing a complete action truing job, I decided I'd like to send LRI a new RR-prefix bare action & PTG custom bolt and have them do all the work, including fitting the new bolt, diamond honing the bolt bore of the action for correct fit after CeraKote application, and just for shits & grins, having them flute the bolt body.

This originally came about because I'd bought the bare action & ordered the custom PTG bolt just before Remington went tits-up, then sat around trying to figure out what I wanted to do with it until all the factory parts (like bolt stop & spring) had sold out. I read about LRI's custom side-mounted bolt stop, and decided to send it up to them to have that installed - then got lazy/curious enough to have them do all the truing & bolt fitting, plus do the bolt stop install. As pleased as I was with LRI's work and how fast the turn-around on it was - and even with my dealer's discount - I could've bought an Origin action for what I've got in what now is certainly a premium M700 action. No regrets on my part, because when I examined the work that LRI did, I was super impressed. And after I'd applied Armour Black CeraKote, the new bolt runs very well in that action. The guys at LRI are top flite in my opinion, which is not news to any of the members here who've had work done by them. And after I'd fitted and chambered the 1-9tw Bartlein in 20 Tactical, it's a hammer.

 

[Rob01]

You don't need a shouldered barrel but it makes life a lot easier by being able to just screw it on and not have to worry about a nut or go/no go gauges. No need to adjust headspace.

That's 5 shots at 100 with 75 ELDs and Varget in a short load work up. Have shot it to 1150 yards in matches. That's a PVA prefit screwed on a Bighorn TL3. The rifle was a 6.5 Creedmoor and I just swapped the boltface and barrel.

This is it during testing but in a different stock and scope now.

 

[stevieb92]

I've never removed a barrel just for cleaning. Maybe I'm part of the minority, but the only time I remove a barrel is to install a new one.

 

[roostercogburn98]

...and a shoulderd barrel makes it easier to remove the barrel for cleaning and measuring the lands and reinstall. No dicking around with headspace all the time.

Just threadlock or silver solder the barrel nut?

 

[roostercogburn98]

what a masterpiece! I can see myself bringing something like that to an F-Class competition and shoot with pride. I think what i like most is the M-14 flash hider. I used to shoot the M-14 competitively in the USMC and that is my dream gun. I wish i could find a real one.

Can’t take credit for the build, the mad scientist has responsible has quite a few unique builds under his belt

 

[roostercogburn98]

Now that is fucken gunsmithing! Love the wood mirage shield of many things here. I'd imagine you could sell this for a lot of money as a Hollywood gun prop for post apocalyptic shows!

It’s a solid shooter, fuck hollyweird. They can keep shooting each other with old single actions

 

[Rob01]

Just threadlock or silver solder the barrel nut?

Then why not just get a shouldered prefit?

And I don’t pull mine off to clean either but it makes changing barrels out much easier. I ended up buying a second TL3 and that one is the .223/6mm Arc and my other is the 6.5 and 6 Creed and .308 so no bolt face changes needed. Simple swaps. Like screwing a bolt into a nut.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Then why not just get a shouldered prefit?

And I don’t pull mine off to clean either but it makes changing barrels out much easier. I ended up buying a second TL3 and that one is the .223/6mm Arc and my other is the 6.5 and 6 Creed and .308 so no bolt face changes needed. Simple swaps. Like screwing a bolt into a nut.

Standard rem700 doesn’t hold good enough headspace to order a shouldered prefit unless you send it in to a shop and they keep the measurements on file Just ordering, you’d have to go with a barrel nut to make sure it would headspace correctly, right?

Pretty sure I’ve seen it suggested here a few times to lock a barrel nut down so it could be taken in and off with repeatable end results.

 

[Rob01]

Standard rem700 doesn’t hold good enough headspace to order a shouldered prefit unless you send it in to a shop and they keep the measurements on file Just ordering, you’d have to go with a barrel nut to make sure it would headspace correctly, right?

Pretty sure I’ve seen it suggested here a few times to lock a barrel nut down so it could be taken in and off with repeatable end results.

Yeah if talking a 700 but I thought we got him over that hurdle. If he did go down that route for some reason I am sure he could do a pin weld like an ar brake to keep the nut there.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Yeah if talking a 700 but I thought we got him over that hurdle. If he did go down that route for some reason I am sure he could do a pin weld like an ar brake to keep the nut there.

Tons of options to keep it in place.

I was simply referring to @reubenski and his comment on shouldered prefit being easier to remove. If OP goes aftermarket, shouldered prefits are the way to go in my opinion. They simply look better as well, imo.

 

[FredHammer]

How I see barrels considering the shouldered prefit vs barrel nut:

Shouldered:
Pretty point and shoot with spinning on and torque to 100ftlbs.
Removal isn't terrible, just make sure to have some anti-seize on the threads on install.
You are dead in the water if some tolerances got stacked somewhere.
Nice clean look of the barrel to receiver transition.

Barrel nut:
Setting/checking headspace with a gauges is pretty damned simple. I don't know why some people think it's such a travesty.
55ftlbs of torque easy on, easy off.
If one desires they can set gnats ass minimum headspace and the new brass and fired brass are only .002" difference. Makes load development easier. No fireforming required.

Both can be very precise shooting rigs. I can't tell a difference in some of my best shooting shouldered and nutted barrels.

 

[FredHammer]

It’s a solid shooter, fuck hollyweird. They can keep shooting each other with old single actions

If the game was "Two men enter, one man leaves" in some woodsball shit, you would have already beat them psychologically holding that thing with steely eyes!

 

[Rob01]

How I see barrels considering the shouldered prefit vs barrel nut:

Shouldered:
Pretty point and shoot with spinning on and torque to 100ftlbs.
Removal isn't terrible, just make sure to have some anti-seize on the threads on install.
You are dead in the water if some tolerances got stacked somewhere.
Nice clean look of the barrel to receiver transition.

Barrel nut:
Setting/checking headspace with a gauges is pretty damned simple. I don't know why some people think it's such a travesty.
55ftlbs of torque easy on, easy off.
If one desires they can set gnats ass minimum headspace and the new brass and fired brass are only .002" difference. Makes load development easier. No fireforming required.

Both can be very precise shooting rigs. I can't tell a difference in some of my best shooting shouldered and nutted barrels.

You don’t need 100 foot pounds with a shouldered barrel. 40-60 works fine. Also both need some sort of grease on the threads. I don’t use anti seize.

And if you get the barrel from a good smith .002” is what you will get with a shouldered prefit too. Mine are that from my latest 6 ARC barrel from PVA.

There is no reason not to get a shouldered prefit in any action that can take one. Everyone here always screams “less moving parts too loosen is better” until you start adding nuts on barrels and then everyone thinks it’s great. Lol

 

[308pirate]

I was simply referring to @reubenski and his comment on shouldered prefit being easier to remove.

Yea LOL

 

[308pirate]

Now hear me out, orrr just buy something like this:

https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-supplies/rifles/bergara-b-14-ridge-sp-graphite-black-cerakote-bolt-action-rifle-223-wylde-18in/p/1737347

And then play around with the stock, bed it, open it up to take a DMB, add a cheek riser, etc...and not worry about Remington.

That 18" barrel has a 1:8 twist barrel so it will sling 77's to good effect out to 600 yards.

I like that

 

[stevieb92]

Let the OP decide if he wants shouldered or non-shouldered. With all else being equal, it doesn’t make a damn bit of difference at the target. The whining about setting and checking headspace is ridiculous. Most shooters already have the gauges. It’s super simple to do and it’s done once until you swap to a new barrel. No good reason to remove a barrel to clean it. Does everyone who owns a factory rifle remove their barrel to clean it? My guess is no.

 

[Rob01]

Let the OP decide if he wants shouldered or non-shouldered. With all else being equal, it doesn’t make a damn bit of difference at the target. The whining about setting and checking headspace is ridiculous. Most shooters already have the gauges. It’s super simple to do and it’s done once until you swap to a new barrel. No good reason to remove a barrel to clean it. Does everyone who owns a factory rifle remove their barrel to clean it? My guess is no.

I am but I am also giving him the reasons as to why and why not. No not everyone has go and no go gauges as I have never had a set in my lifetime. And yeah you only do it once but then you want to change calibers or barrels and you have to do it again, and then again. Not one time thing. And no I don't remove my barrels to clean either but some do when they want to soak them.

So what is the advantage to adding another piece to the barrel change puzzle in the nut when you can just use a shouldered prefit?

 

[spife7980]

So what is the advantage to adding another piece to the barrel change puzzle in the nut when you can just use a shouldered prefit?

Generally about 100 bucks less. Which is a nice trade off for having to use a go gauge

 

[Rob01]

Generally about 100 bucks less. Which is a nice trade off for having to use a go gauge

And that gets less when you add the cost of the nut and go/no go gauges right?

 

[FredHammer]

You don’t need 100 foot pounds with a shouldered barrel. 40-60 works fine. Also both need some sort of grease on the threads. I don’t use anti seize.

And if you get the barrel from a good smith .002” is what you will get with a shouldered prefit too. Mine are that from my latest 6 ARC barrel from PVA.

There is no reason not to get a shouldered prefit in any action that can take one. Everyone here always screams “less moving parts too loosen is better” until you start adding nuts on barrels and then everyone thinks it’s great. Lol

One can get a Savage small shank nut barrel and pass it around on most actions like a dirty whore fuck doll!

 

[stevieb92]

So what is the advantage to adding another piece to the barrel change puzzle in the nut when you can just use a shouldered prefit?

A big advantage to me is the ability to fine tune headspace, which is impossible to do with a shouldered barrel. Unless you send the barrel back to the gunsmith. Tolerance stacking can bite you in the ass with a shouldered prefit barrel.

 

[spife7980]

And that gets less when you add the cost of the nut and go/no go gauges right?

For the initial investment, sure. Absolutely.

BUT lets say on my origin Ive gotten 3 6 creed nut barrels for 450 a piece, thats 1350 in barrels, a nut for 35, a lug for 45 for a nut wrench for 25. Thats 1455 plus 35 for a go gauge for 1,490.

vs 3 shouldered barrels at 550 a piece for 1650.

So I would be ahead 160 bucks, actually more like 195 since I still check headspace with a go gauge on the shouldered set ups. Sure it isnt much but its also more than I value the 10 minutes total I spent setting headspace myself for all three barrels combined.

Plus if I already have an action that doesnt accept shouldered prefits (like so many do) then its really the only option without putting it in someone elses hands. SO if the OP does end up on a rem 700 then a remage is an easy and relatively affordable way to get his barrel.

(my last pva barrel nut was actually just 367 on sale vs 602 on sale for my last shouldered sop the savings are even more pronounced than the numbers Im actually using, not on sale drives the difference even further)

 

[Rob01]

A big advantage to me is the ability to fine tune headspace, which is impossible to do with a shouldered barrel. Unless you send the barrel back to the gunsmith. Tolerance stacking can bite you in the ass with a shouldered prefit barrel.

Not with a good smith or good company. I have 6 shouldered prefits moved between two actions and have had another 5 made on another action and no issues with excessive headspace or even long. All about .002 growth from factory ammo. Sounds more like a "this could happen" scare tactic than a this actually an issue especially with the amount of psople using shouldered prefits on action. The Ramage nut craze came when their wasn't the amount of custom actions available and people had to use Rems or Savages. Not the case any longer. I'll stick with shouldered prefits.

 

[Rob01]

For the initial investment, sure. Absolutely.

Lets say Ive gotten 3 6 creed nut barrels for 450 a piece, thats 1350 in barrels, a nut for 35, a lug for 45 for a nut wrench for 25. Thats 1455 plus 35 for a go gauge for 1,490.

vs 3 shouldered barrels at 550 a piece for 1650.

So I would be ahead 160 bucks, actually more like 195 since I still check headspace with a go gauge on the shouldered set ups. Sure it isnt much but its also more than I value the 10 minutes total I spent setting headspace myself for all three barrels combined.

Plus if I already have an action that doesnt accept shouldered prefits (like so many do) then its really the only option without putting it in someone elses hands.

(my last pva barrel nut was actually just 367 on sale vs 602 on sale for my last shouldered sop the savings are even more pronounced than the numbers Im actually using, not on sale drives the difference even further)

And if you are burning through barrels that fast the $195 is a drop in the bucket to powder and bullets. Funny how little amounts of money come into play when we dump so much into this sport. LOL

Yes if you have an action which doesn't accept shouldered prefits then the nut is the only answer anyways but the OP is getting into the game looking for a .223 and if he comes in the right way out of the gate then he won't have to worry about that and have both options if he wanted.

 

[stevieb92]

Not with a good smith or good company. I have 6 shouldered prefits moved between two actions and have had another 5 made on another action and no issues with excessive headspace or even long. All about .002 growth from factory ammo. Sounds more like a "this could happen" scare tactic than a this actually an issue especially with the amount of psople using shouldered prefits on action. The Ramage nut craze came when their wasn't the amount of custom actions available and people had to use Rems or Savages. Not the case any longer. I'll stick with shouldered prefits.

Your statement is not absolute. So none of the good smiths or good companies have one that slips through the door? Humans make mistakes and sometimes they go out the door.

Case in point, a couple years ago friend of mine had a custom rifle done by a reputable smith who is on here and highly respected. I've also had work done by this same smith and am super impressed. My friend's rifle had one of their custom muzzle brakes installed onto his now trued action (by them) and custom chambered barrel (by them), but the bore diameter of the brake was SMALLER than the 6.5 mm bullet he had it chambered for. Thank goodness he looked at it before he shot it. The smith took care of it, but it required a trip back to the smith for the entire rifle. Mistakes happen.

You can stick with shouldered prefits. I'll stick with non-shouldered prefits. The OP can decide based on the merits, but none of us should be saying "thou must do this because I say so".

 

[spife7980]

I dont disagree aside from 195 bucks not being a lot of money, I feed myself for a month off of that amount and it totally is a bunch for some of us.
But people can still like barrel nuts without being disparaged for it.

 

[Rob01]

Your statement is not absolute. So none of the good smiths or good companies have one that slips through the door? Humans make mistakes and sometimes they go out the door.

Case in point, a couple years ago friend of mine had a custom rifle done by a reputable smith who is on here and highly respected. I've also had work done by this same smith and am super impressed. My friend's rifle had one of their custom muzzle brakes installed onto his now trued action (by them) and custom chambered barrel (by them), but the bore diameter of the brake was SMALLER than the 6.5 mm bullet he had it chambered for. Thank goodness he looked at it before he shot it. The smith took care of it, but it required a trip back to the smith for the entire rifle. Mistakes happen.

You can stick with shouldered prefits. I'll stick with non-shouldered prefits. The OP can decide based on the merits, but none of us should be saying "thou must do this because I say so".

And neither are yours. A nut barrel can come out bad too. So? Guess you better not buy either. LOL

Where did I say he must do this because I said so? I didn't. I am giving him the reason to go shouldered prefit as it's as easy as screwing a nut into a bolt and go with no extra parts or measuring. Some like messing with a ton of stuff. I don't.

 

[Rob01]

I dont disagree aside from 195 bucks not being a lot of money, I feed myself for a month off of that amount and it totally is a bunch for some of us.
But people can still like barrel nuts without being disparaged for it.

Nut people are people too! I know. Just trying to help the OP. Will be his decision.

 

[stevieb92]

And neither are yours. A nut barrel can come out bad too. So? Guess you better not buy either. LOL

Where did I say he must do this because I said so? I didn't. I am giving him the reason to go shouldered prefit as it's as easy as screwing a nut into a bolt and go with no extra parts or measuring. Some like messing with a ton of stuff. I don't.

I didn't say it couldn't come out bad. However, if there is a headspace issue because of the low probability of tolerance stacking, it can be corrected with the nut without sending the barrel back to the smith. You can't do that with a shouldered barrel.

You said "get a shouldered prefit barrel..." No nut or with a nut, it is still just as easy as a nut into a bolt.

Tons of stuff? LOL! Whatever. So you never verify headspace with a shouldered prefit barrel? At least I know what my headspace is set at using a nut.

 

[Rob01]

I didn't say it couldn't come out bad. However, if there is a headspace issue because of the low probability of tolerance stacking, it can be corrected with the nut without sending the barrel back to the smith. You can't do that with a shouldered barrel.

You said "get a shouldered prefit barrel..." No nut or with a nut, it is still just as easy as a nut into a bolt.

Tons of stuff? LOL! Whatever. So you never verify headspace with a shouldered prefit barrel? At least I know what my headspace is set at using a nut.

There is a very, very small chance of a bad headspace in a shouldered barrel made by a quality smith or company. You seem to be stuck on "tolerence stacking" but again that is a very, very small chance also especially with a custom action. Same as something going wrong with a nut barrel and headspace is not the only thing that can be wrong in any barrel although you are harping on that as that is the golden ticket waived by nut guys.

And you said get a nut barrel. And? LOL I gave him my opinion and reasons why as part of his looking into building. Giving him my experiences and why they work. And no it is not just as easy either way. When you screw a bolt into a nut do you then screw another nut into it to keep it tight while setting the depth of the bolt? Nope.

Nope. Never. Screw it on and shoot. Works just fine.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

WOW!!! this is what I love about SnipersHide... so much information, so many options, so many opinions, so many solutions....

Absolutely love it!

My first inclination is to go with a shouldered pre-fit but now I am contemplating a combination of both, just to learn and experiment. Yea, it would probably cost a little more but not enough to deter me.

Over the past year i have evolved from being just an AR guy and now with a 6.5 Creed (impact precision SA & 26" bartlein) and a 300 PRC build ( Rukus LA and 30" bartlein though the 300PRC barrel is not together yet as the barrel hasnt arrived yet and is due in late Oct - Early Nov). For each of these, I have been totally dependent on a gunsmith to get me up and running. I have been lucky with a couple of outstanding gunsmiths but eager to do what i want without that need.

Based on the feedback here, I started looking into the Zermat Arms solution mentioned above and put together the following wish list:

• Origin SA - Beadblast with .223 bolt head, 20MOA rail, tactical bolt knob
• Shouldered pre-fit stainless barrel, 26”, 22 cal (.223 Wilde), bull, 1:7, muzzle thread, bead blast
• - with stainless thread protector 5/8x24
• Shouldered pre-fit stainless barrel, 20”, 30 cal (300 blackout), MTU, 1:12, muzzle thread, bead blast
• - with stainless thread protector 5/8x24
• MDT ACC Chassis
• Trigger Tech Diamond

I reached out to Northland Shooter Supply and they recommended .223 remington instead of Wilde and agreed with 1:7 twist. They recommended an 1:7 or 1:8 for the 300 blackout.

I was not originally interested in a 300 Blackout but i have friends who love that cartridge and figured if all i need is an extra barrel and i can easily shoot both... why not.

NSS also sells the Rems barrels and everything else needed to mount them.

Again, it is more than i was initially planning to do but between all the inspiration of this thread and the NSS site... i am getting more hooked.

I am not totally sold on the MDT chassis yet. Both of my other builds have Foundation Genesis stocks and i really love them. Just thinking about something a little different for this build.