Remington 700 tight bolt list..

[CK_32]

I was popping off some dummy rounds in my house practicing for next month. And I kinda realized my bolt isnt as smooth as I thought it was..

Its pretty tight when pulling up on the bolt like it would be if I had a hot round.. Why is this??

Nothing has changed its always been like this just now realized it.. This a problem?

It feels like its a bit of pressure from the firing pin springs.. It feels like when lifting its compressing it a little bit and causing a little force when being lifted..

Also idk if this is normal but If I just lift the bolt and put it back down no sliding back of the bolt what so ever the firing pin resets.. Thats normal right??

 

[CK_32]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

I have a feeling my 700 is just fine and im being a p**sy hahaha but Its been raining for 5 days and I've been stuck inside all 5 and am pretty bored so I figured I'd ask

 

[xNF_9]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Is the chamber dirty? If so could be you issue.

 

[Supersubes]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Lube the cocking cam, and the spring/firing pin.

 

[Badshot308]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

If your firing pin drops when you raise the bolt handle and then lower it, something ain't right. Have you adjusted the factory trigger or replaced it with an aftermarket unit? If your trigger has a proper amount of sear engagement and weight set, then you could have a problem where the firing pin head isn't being drawn back quite far enough to catch the sear safefy cam when the bolt handle is lifted. Refer to this diagram for the parts I'm talking about http://stevespages.com/ipb-remington-700.html

 

[Nessal]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

You may have misunderstood his question. I think he is saying that lifting the bolt resets the firing pin. If so there is nothing wrong with it. Pulling the bolt back through its travel is to cycle the brass. It does nothing to reset the firing pin.

 

[Badshot308]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

He'll have to clarify what he means by "reset". If he's saying the firing pin moves back and remains cocked when he lowers the bolt, then it's normal. If the firing pin moves back foward when he lowers the bolt, then there's an issue.

 

[oneshot onekill]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Your brass might be stretched and rubbing at the shoulder.
And yes, it's normal for the firing pin to reset when you lift the bolt. That's when it gets cocked. As opposed to something like an old Model 1917 Remington which cocks when you close the bolt... IIRC.

 

[CK_32]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Badshot308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your firing pin drops when you raise the bolt handle and then lower it, something ain't right. Have you adjusted the factory trigger or replaced it with an aftermarket unit? If your trigger has a proper amount of sear engagement and weight set, then you could have a problem where the firing pin head isn't being drawn back quite far enough to catch the sear safefy cam when the bolt handle is lifted. Refer to this diagram for the parts I'm talking about http://stevespages.com/ipb-remington-700.html </div></div>

No there int anything wrong with my trigger.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You may have misunderstood his question. I think he is saying that lifting the bolt resets the firing pin. If so there is nothing wrong with it. Pulling the bolt back through its travel is to cycle the brass. It does nothing to reset the firing pin. </div></div>

This is exactly what I meant thank you.^

Thank you. Don't pull a CNBC on me now lol ;P

And no the chamber and rifle are all clean. I took apart the bolt and it seems to be fairly clean.

 

[Badshot308]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Well now that we know your trigger is fine, how does the bolt feel when you cycle it without a round in the chamber?

 

[JPro]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

I ran into this same scenario before and the problem was due to a pinched trigger housing. I removed the trigger for adjustments and when replacing said trigger the pins were a bit snug. This effectively sandwiched the sear lever between the two sides of the trigger housing. The bolt lift was very stout when the firing pin was down, not so when cycling the bolt with an already-cocked pin. The cure was to remove the bolt, look at the top of the trigger, and angle a punch at each side of the trigger housing. I gave a few light taps on each side to spread the housing a bit and the heavy bolt lift vanished. I shared this with others who had the same issue and it cured their woes also. Might be worth a shot.....

 

[monteboy84]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

He's simply asking about the tension on the bolt handle after dry-firing. It's normal function of the gun, lifting the bolt handle is what cocks your firing pin.

-matt

 

[monteboy84]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also idk if this is normal but If I just lift the bolt and put it back down no sliding back of the bolt what so ever the firing pin resets.. Thats normal right?? </div></div>

Yes. You do not need to pull the bolt back to reset the firing pin, see my prior post.

-matt

 

[MtnManCO]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Somebody else mentioned it, but if you polish the ramp that the cocking piece slides on and then put just a touch of anti-sieze on it, it will make it a little smoother. It also may not hurt to unscrew the bolt shroud and make sure that the inside of the bolt body is good and clean, especially around the larger front part of the firing pin.

Shawn

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Step 1. Make sure the rifle is unloaded.
Step 2. Remove the bolt
Step 3. Remove the firing pin from the bolt.
Step 4. Polish the cocking cam surface in the bolt with
cratex wheel in a Dremel tool to a bright finish.
Step 5. Clean and oil bolt body
Step 6. Lube camming surface on the bolt body
Step 7. Reassemble

That's all you can do.

 

[Jhnmdahl]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

I agree - disassemble, clean, and lube has a good chance of solving your problem.

John

 

[CK_32]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

To answer some questions yes its the same with or with out the (dummy) round inside.

I know when ejecting brass you feel some tension due to the round being torqued.

I just see some guys rapid firing their 700's like no other and that isnt possible with mine with how hard bolt lift is. Its not that you have to be thore to pop it open just its not finger lift able with ease..


Also another thing is my 700 is only about a year old and maybe 75 rounds deep. If that could be a reason? Maybe it will change once broken in?

But ill take it appart again and clean it anyways and if not ill have to have some one look into that trigger.

 

[BK7saum]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

+1 on step 6

The cam surface needs to be lubed.

 

[N2DADARK]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

Do you reload your brass, my 700 doesn't like semi auto fired brass, even if trimmed way too short, so that could be a contributer as well, or a painted bolt.....NEVER PAINT UR BOLT! lol good luck

 

[sparmley]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..



Hey Guys, I'm having this same problem with a new 700 VLS as well... I removed the firing pin assembly to get that out of the equation and it seems like my bolt is still binding on one of the two locking lugs (one lug has the bluing intact and the other is worn heavily.. just my best guess.

I don't want to hijack the post, but since it's related... can I use some kind of dremel attachment (maybe the cartex wheel that Tooley mentioned above) to polish down that lug surface?

I'm usually a quiet observer and this is my first post, so please let me know if I'm out of line. Any help is appreciated.

*

 

[Tripwire]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Step 1. Make sure the rifle is unloaded.
Step 2. Remove the bolt
Step 3. Remove the firing pin from the bolt.
Step 4. <span style="font-weight: bold">Polish the cocking cam surface in the bolt with
cratex wheel in a Dremel tool to a bright finish.</span>
Step 5. Clean and oil bolt body
Step 6. Lube camming surface on the bolt body
Step 7. Reassemble

That's all you can do. </div></div>

Yep.

I go one step further and completely disassemble the bolt. While the bolt is apart I put a mirror polish on the entire length of the firing pin. I run some fine lapping compound in the shroud threads to polish them too. Breaking down all sharp edges and removing any burs the factory left in the shroud/bolt also helps much. Gives 'em that slick as shit broke-in feel......

 

[Tripwire]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fly USCG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Hey Guys, I'm having this same problem with a new 700 VLS as well... I removed the firing pin assembly to get that out of the equation and it seems like my bolt is still binding on one of the two locking lugs (one lug has the bluing intact and the other is worn heavily.. just my best guess.

I don't want to hijack the post, but since it's related... can I use some kind of dremel attachment (maybe the cartex wheel that Tooley mentioned above) to polish down that lug surface?

I'm usually a quiet observer and this is my first post, so please let me know if I'm out of line. Any help is appreciated.

* </div></div>

Messing with the lugs will risk changing the headspace...

If your lugs are out of whack that bad you might want to consider getting the action blueprinted by a good 'smith.

 

[sparmley]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fly USCG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Messing with the lugs will risk changing the headspace...

If your lugs are out of whack that bad you might want to consider getting the action blueprinted by a good 'smith.</div></div>

I tried a separate 700 SPS bolt and it cycles flawlessly in my action. I would like to keep from visiting a gunsmith if at all possible ($$). Is it true that I need a new barrel if blueprinting is the way to go? (again.. $$)

 

[tatemarb]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

The problem started after you cleaned the bolt/firing pin. You cleaned the grease off the cocking cam and now it is trying to gall when you lift the bolt. STOP WORKING THE BOLT until you get some gun grease in it. Oil will not work in this application. I recommend and use RIG+p grease.

Sorry USCG, this is in response to the earlier part of the post about the bolt lift. You seem to have lugs that need to be lapped in or trued to the action. Gunsmithing $$$.

 

[Tripwire]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fly USCG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I tried a separate 700 SPS bolt and it cycles flawlessly in my action. I would like to keep from visiting a gunsmith if at all possible ($$).</div></div>

You shouldn't trust a bolt from another rifle unless the headspace has been checked by a gunsmith....


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fly USCG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Is it true that I need a new barrel if blueprinting is the way to go? (again.. $$) </div></div>

If the lapping or blueprinting takes the chamber out of spec, then, at a minimum you will need the current barrel "set back", or take the opportunity to upgrade to a premium tube.

How's it shoot in the current condition?

 

[sparmley]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

I'm getting consistent 3/4 MOA in a 5-shot group from a bipod and bag.... I just can't cycle the bolt without unreasonable effort.

 

[sparmley]

Re: Remington 700 tight bolt list..

FIXED! (I think).

1. I very gently polished the bluing off the bolt end with a 320 grit dremel wheel.
2. Lit a candle and used it to lightly blacken the locking lugs and surrounding bolt area.
4. Cycled the bolt through the action.

I noticed that the blackening was completely scraped away in one area (just behind the lug with the groove in it [what is that groove for?]) aside from the parallel marks caused by the fore-aft motion of the bolt.

5. Used cratex dremel wheel (thanks Tooley!) to polish this area and followed with 280 grit then 320 grit fittings to polish down any rough spots left from the cratex wheel.
6. Lightly greased lug area, lightly oiled rest of bolt.

It's 500% better and it still is a little firm it one spot, however I'll let that break-in through use vice taking off too much metal and being f-ed.

I took Tripwire's suggestion and took the opportunity to polish the firing pin while I had it out. Thank you to everyone for your help!