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PM inbound sir, might have a lead on one to your liking.Is it a difficult conversion? It's one of those rifles I'd love to have but a real one I'd be unlikely to actually shoot much.
It's not extremely difficult, I have converted No4Mk1 to a (T), will post pictures in a bit and will be working on L42A1 tribute build (a donor bubba'd rifle is being rebarreled right now).Is it a difficult conversion? It's one of those rifles I'd love to have but a real one I'd be unlikely to actually shoot much.
Peter's article is the best tutorial available to anyone wanting to build a repro T.It's not extremely difficult, I have converted No4Mk1 to a (T), will post pictures in a bit and will be working on L42A1 tribute build (a donor bubba'd rifle is being rebarreled right now).
The best description of the process is here:
Milsurps Knowledge Library - Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 1 (by Peter Laidler)
Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 1 (by Peter Laidler)www.milsurps.com
I highly recommend using the silver solder to fix/attach pads, I have used 70PA powdered version from Brownells and a MAPP torch:
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That’s the reason I mentioned using 70pa solder - 425F melting temperature.Peter's article is the best tutorial available to anyone wanting to build a repro T.
However I cringe when I hear the mention of silver soldering the pads. Too much heat required, especially when doing the rear pad.
The locking shoulders on a No.4 are induction hardened to an average depth of only .003" - .004".
The originals built by RSAF Enfield and at Holland & Holland used low temp soft solder on the pads to avoid softening the locking lug shoulders on the reciever.
Roger that. Your use of the term silver solder had me concerned and I'm not familiar with the 70pa stuff.That’s the reason I mentioned using 70pa solder - 425F melting temperature.