Reproduction No4(t)?

I don’t believe it is too difficult, though scopes and mounts are probably scarce.

I have a friend in Orlando who has one, I think. Big Enfield collector. He owes me some favors (and 2 cases of 19 Crimes, the delinquent bastard) so if you need some pix, let me know and I can introduce you. Maybe you can get him to send me my cheap red wine.

Cheers, Sirhr
 
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If you can do this, then it's not that hard. By this I mean mounting the scope will require some research as it is different than any other mount . Some of the receivers can be very hard, as in Rockwell C. Mounting involves "pads" on the side of the rifle that must be aligned. Also, the repro mounts appear to have dried up.
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My Enfield sniper and transit case. My build.

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I found a complete mount and scope reproduction from RSMSCOPE.COM and see they are well liked in AU and elsewhere. Their documents on how to install the pads look like its largely eyeballed using the barrel to boresight and then clamping the pads to locate the holes when the scope is close to on target. Fairly crude way of locating the pad holes unless there is a better guide out there?
 
Unless you can get quality reproduction pads and scope bracket it isn’t worth it IMO... I recently had one made. It was a joint effort between Bruce Dow who rebarreled a receiver I had with a Criterion barrel and mounted pads (from Fultons of Bisley) and collimated the Mount bracket (from Roger Payne, also in the UK). Brian Dick then did the stock fitting per MoD standards. I originally had a vintage K3 scope on it but wanted a more accurate look and after talking to Warren on milsurps.com (he did the reverse engineering on the RSM scopes) I picked up a repro scope and he ‘tarted’ it up for me. The whole set up turned out beautifully. Unfortunately, between covid and ammo/primer shortages I haven’t been able to get out to get a feel for how well she shoots.

Bottom line is, to do it right isn’t cheap but it is satisfying...
 
Perhaps consider joining milsurps forum, search anything by Peter Laidler , he gives a pretty good description of the process, I found the Chinese mount I got requires some milling to fit the front pad precisely, also they will almost certainly require shimming to fit as the originals were screwed on and machined in place
 
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The above might help you in seeing how the pads are attached to the No.4 receiver.
The front pad is inletted about 8 to 10 thou into the receiver wall while the rear pad sits on the wall.
The rear hole is a BI*ch to drill as you are into the locking recess area of the receiver.
This is a junk T receiver that I lend out to folks who are mounting up the pads, but cannot lend it into the USA unfortunately
 
Is it a difficult conversion? It's one of those rifles I'd love to have but a real one I'd be unlikely to actually shoot much.
It's not extremely difficult, I have converted No4Mk1 to a (T), will post pictures in a bit and will be working on L42A1 tribute build (a donor bubba'd rifle is being rebarreled right now).
The best description of the process is here:

I highly recommend using the silver solder to fix/attach pads, I have used 70PA powdered version from Brownells and a MAPP torch:

 
It's not extremely difficult, I have converted No4Mk1 to a (T), will post pictures in a bit and will be working on L42A1 tribute build (a donor bubba'd rifle is being rebarreled right now).
The best description of the process is here:

I highly recommend using the silver solder to fix/attach pads, I have used 70PA powdered version from Brownells and a MAPP torch:

Peter's article is the best tutorial available to anyone wanting to build a repro T.
However I cringe when I hear the mention of silver soldering the pads. Too much heat required, especially when doing the rear pad.
The locking shoulders on a No.4 are induction hardened to an average depth of only .003" - .004".
The originals built by RSAF Enfield and at Holland & Holland used low temp soft solder on the pads to avoid softening the locking lug shoulders on the reciever.
 
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Peter's article is the best tutorial available to anyone wanting to build a repro T.
However I cringe when I hear the mention of silver soldering the pads. Too much heat required, especially when doing the rear pad.
The locking shoulders on a No.4 are induction hardened to an average depth of only .003" - .004".
The originals built by RSAF Enfield and at Holland & Holland used low temp soft solder on the pads to avoid softening the locking lug shoulders on the reciever.
That’s the reason I mentioned using 70pa solder - 425F melting temperature.
 
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