Rimfire barrel cleaning

[cliffy110]

What is the conventional wisdom on cleaning the barrel of a rimfire? On a related note, is the conventional wisdom correct? I ask because over the past year, I've learned that the conventional wisdom on cleaning centerfire rifles really isn't such a good thing and I've essentially stopped cleaning my centerfire bolt guns. Rimfire however, is clearly much dirtier and there is a lot more carbon fouling. My instincts say this needs dealt with more aggressively than my centerfire rifles but I'm curious about you guys who do more of this than me.

I'm assuming that a coated, one piece rod, brass tips and nylon brushes are all preferred, but if you've got more insight, I'd love to hear it.

Oh... and this is related to a bolt gun so gumming up the action isn't a concern.

 

[oldrifleman]

When I was coming up many said not to clean them, I would run a patch through to clean the crud, but not disturb the base. Many casual shooters still do this or possibly never. I now use a coated rod, factory bore guide, VFG felt cleaning pellets and bore tech rimfire solvent. My rod is marked to show how far to push it through without the pellets leaving the bore. I run 5 wet through with 4/5 min between pellets. Then wait 5 min and run a dry one through. If it is clean I run an oil pellet through and call it good. Every 4 outings I soak 2 pellets in boretech carbon and insert it into the chamber and let it sit for 10 minutes and then do the full barrel cleaning.

 

[alamo5000]

I don't know about 'conventional' or not and I cannot speak for anyone else. I did however run a test (somewhat non scientific as there wasn't a big enough sample size I guess).

The results are that I clean the muzzle and chamber.

The chamber can prevent reliable operation if it's left to build up 22LR gunk and carbon or whatever.

The muzzle/crown (especially when shooting suppressed) can build up a LOT of gunk and carbon. This build up will absolutely impact point of aim, accuracy and stuff along those lines.

 

[flaGeo]

Coated rod, bore guide - run one or two patches thru dry Soak a bore mop in bore tech carbon cleaner and insert in chamber and let it sit for at least 10 minutes - often much longer. Then run some dry patches thru until they come out clean. I do this every time I shoot.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Conventional, lol, we all have our own snake oil.
I use polished ss rods, as well as coated rods, use the coated more because I like the handles today compared to pro shot ones I used for yrs.
I use Boretech rimfire blend, and I brush, every 4-600 rds, strip the barrel clean. If the rifles sit for a spell, I will clean just the throat area before shooting.
My first shots are always high, and back in tune usually around 7-8 shots.
I try not to overthink this stuff, we all have stories, I like to keep my rifles reasonably clean, both RF and CF. If accuracy is going to fall off because a lack of cleaning, my history says it will be at the time you want a gun that shoots the most.

 

[25ring]

Even though I have bore guides,coated rods,etc. I find I end up using a patchworm more and more often, just quicker and simpler using it with patches or a felt.

 

[oldrifleman]

Even though I have bore guides,coated rods,etc. I find I end up using a patchworm more and more often, just quicker and simpler using it with patches or a felt.

I use a patchwork for my Kidd Super Grades bot not my others where I can easily reach the breach.

 

[Csafisher]

At a minimum you should clean the chamber. You said it yourself that rimfire is dirty…. And thus you should clean the bolt at some interval you’re comfortable with. Also, I’m not sure who told you that you shouldn’t clean your centerfires. That’s not the best advice….

 

[p5200]

I have BoreTech Eliminator not Rimfire, is that ok too use on rimfire?

 

[epags]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Vudoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

 

[cliffy110]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Voodoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

That's perfect. That is a great recap of a lot of what was discussed in this thread and puts it into a format that I think I trust. Thanks.

 

[grauhanen]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Voodoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

The author Gregory J. Roman, claims using this cleaning method itself not only produced great groups on paper, it "also produces extremely low ES and SD numbers over the chronograph".

What's not to like about that? The cleaning regimen itself improves chrony performance of the ammo. In other words, a shooter will get better performing ammo without changing ammo.

 

[epags]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Voodoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

I should also add that my Dewey 22 caliber cleaning rod was not long enough to clean from the chamber to the muzzle and rather than clean from the muzzle with a rigid cleaning rod, I bought the Dewey 22 caliber 30" cable and 22 caliber mops and clean the barrel using the cable from the muzzle. I use a rigid 22 dewey rod from the chamber end to soak and clean the carbon in the chamber.

 

[nockhunter]

I soak a bore mop on Hoppes 9, stuff it in the chamber (1-1.5") for ten to fifteen minutes, take a nylon brush to the chamber a couple times, then 4-5 dry patches,,,,,done. All with a bore guide, just my 2 cents.

Mike

 

[DownhillFromHere]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Voodoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

^^^ This. I've used this approach since Greg first presented it. Fast, easy, minimal disruptiion for "reseasoning."

 

[USMC22]

I have BoreTech Eliminator not Rimfire, is that ok too use on rimfire?

@p5200 you're not going to hurt anything. I primarily use Carbon Remover and Rimfire. None of the bore tech stuff is going to damage your barrel.

 

[Jack_L]

I am in the process of conditioning a new rimfire rifle and here is the guidance I am using (if it is good enough for the Vudoo rifle folks I guess it is pretty good advice: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

I follow this almost exactly, other than I use a wet pellet to soak the carbon ring and a dry one after that to wipe it dry, followed by dry patches on a jag.

BoreTech C4 is the only solvent that goes into the bore of my precision .22s.
I clean before every match, and before any range session that is intended for data gathering or ammunition selection. By these guidelines I won't put more than 500 rounds down the bore without cleaning.

I do not use Rimfire Blend (or Eliminator) on precision .22 barrels unless my intent is to remove everything from the bore, knowing that I will then need to reinvest 1,000 rounds of ammo to re-season. It does a great job of stripping the bore bare though, which can be good if you every shoot a bunch of Thunderbolt through a gun (don't ask, but definitely not through a precision rifle).

Following the process of cleaning the chamber and carbon ring, pushing a few dry patches, and wiping off the muzzle, my post-cleaning "break-in" is 1-3 shots before the group stabilizes and centers on my POA. It'll stay that way for at least 500 rounds (I haven't gone more than that without cleaning), which is more than adequate.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I follow this almost exactly, other than I use a wet pellet to soak the carbon ring and a dry one after that to wipe it dry, followed by dry patches on a jag.

BoreTech C4 is the only solvent that goes into the bore of my precision .22s.
I clean before every match, and before any range session that is intended for data gathering or ammunition selection. By these guidelines I won't put more than 500 rounds down the bore without cleaning.

I do not use Rimfire Blend (or Eliminator) on precision .22 barrels unless my intent is to remove everything from the bore, knowing that I will then need to reinvest 1,000 rounds of ammo to re-season. It does a great job of stripping the bore bare though, which can be good if you every shoot a bunch of Thunderbolt through a gun (don't ask, but definitely not through a precision rifle).

Following the process of cleaning the chamber and carbon ring, pushing a few dry patches, and wiping off the muzzle, my post-cleaning "break-in" is 1-3 shots before the group stabilizes and centers on my POA. It'll stay that way for at least 500 rounds (I haven't gone more than that without cleaning), which is more than adequate.

Pretty much verbatim where I'm at. C4 soak for the carbon ring, I then push that wet patch all the way through and use it to wipe the muzzle clean. Then dry patches until they come out clean. Fouling takes less than 10 rounds, still waiting to see what this new lot of Lapua ammo does; the old lot was 2 rounds to foul, this lot seems to take closer to 10.

The more we learn about precision firearms, the less I care about conventional wisdom. My performance needs and expectations generally aren't achievable with most of the "conventional" methods, and because I handload or shoot high-end rimfire ammo, I can see on paper and chrono whether a method works well or not. I used to do C4 wet patches until they came out clean in my 22LR, but it was taking more rounds to get a stable group at the zero board. Since going to only the one patch, I save on ammo and time while zeroing at the matches, and my my rifle's consistency has basically zero negative influence on my performance on the scoreboard at this point.

 

[oldrifleman]

Pretty much verbatim where I'm at. C4 soak for the carbon ring, I then push that wet patch all the way through and use it to wipe the muzzle clean. Then dry patches until they come out clean. Fouling takes less than 10 rounds, still waiting to see what this new lot of Lapua ammo does; the old lot was 2 rounds to foul, this lot seems to take closer to 10.

Interesting about the new stuff taking longer. I also figured 2 rounds to foul and am waiting on a new case of Xact.

 

[cliffy110]

This has been exactly what I had hoped to learn. Like so many others, I was taught to scrub the living hell out of barrels. I've fixed that with regard to centerfire but really wanted to understand how a rimfire would be different. The clear and logical discussion of treating the carbon without stripping the bore makes good sense. I'm enjoying the hell out of my Ruger and now with the Shaw barrel, it is a tack driver and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Interesting about the new stuff taking longer. I also figured 2 rounds to foul and am waiting on a new case of Xact.

Yeah, not really sure what's going on there. I did a tuning session (I changed lots and also added a muzzle-mounted brass weight tube), so it should be capable of a 1-hole group at 50 yds, but I didn't see that on Sunday at a match until several zero adjustments. Ironically, I made a windage adjustment, shot another 3-rd group, and clearly needed to put it back haha

After that I shot a one-hole 3-rd group less than a tenth high on elevation and with acceptable windage, then had to go shoot the match. I haven't cleaned it since, so I'll check tomorrow at the range and see what kind of group it prints. I'm also aware that the "good" group I did shoot after fouling and zeroing could've just been a lucky three, but I didn't have time to shoot more.

Still figuring out what the "story" is with this new lot.

 

[Criver600]

Bore guide, Coated Dewey cleaning rod, 3 wet patches (Butches bore shine) quality all brass brush, 5 strokes out the muzzle and back, 3 wet patches, 2 dry its clean. I use a bore scope to verify. Clean every case. 10 shots and I'm back in the groove. Its not that complicated.