Rifle Scopes RPR set up help

[308FTW]

I’ve got a bone stock gen 2 RPR in my safe that I’ve never shot. Over the weekend I won a crimson trace 3-18x optic at a match and figured it’s a good opportunity to get the RPR up and running. Here is the scope:

CTL-5318 5-Series Tactical Riflescope 3-18x50mm MIL/MIL FFP | CrimsonTrace

CTL-5318 5-Series Tactical Riflescope 3-18x50mm MIL/MIL FFP

www.crimsontrace.com

Can anyone suggest a set of rings or mount that will work for me? I know ZERO about bolt guns. I’ll be taking the rifle to a week long LEO sniper course at the end of the year. I’m guessing I’ll need a bipod as well so if anyone has any input there I’d appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[spife7980]

Its a 34mm scope so you just need some 34mm rings.
Get the rings that are 1.5" tall so that there is ample room to clear the hand guard and to allow you to get enough cheek space.

 

[308FTW]

Awesome. Any particular brand you like/suggest?

 

[308FTW]

I’m seeing 1.42 and 1.57 tall rings. I’m assuming the 1.57 are what I want?

 

[littlepod]

34mm rings, Measure the objective and see how big it is. Probably somewhere like 2.5-2.8" ? Add some space for some scope caps. Then that's the ring height you want.

Medium cost rings, Seekins Precision / Vortex Precision Matched Rings. Lower Cost - Burris XTR II rings.

 

[spife7980]

Awesome. Any particular brand you like/suggest?

Nope, I like ARC M10s but I also have nightforce, steiner, leupold, all good.

I’m seeing 1.42 and 1.57 tall rings. I’m assuming the 1.57 are what I want?

Doesnt matter, 1.4 is the minimum, I like just a bit of buffer so I said 1.5. 1.57 is barely any different really. Just something around 1.5.

 

[308FTW]

Sweet thanks! I’ll get those ordered today.

Any suggestions on a bipod? I’m assuming I’ll be doing a fair amount of prone shooting. I’m assuming I’ll be spending a few hundred on it....

I’m also seeing almost everyone upgrading their rail on the RPR. I was looking at the arca rail but not sure if it’s a worthwhile upgrade. Opinions welcome.

 

[spife7980]

Sweet thanks! I’ll get those ordered today.

Any suggestions on a bipod? I’m assuming I’ll be doing a fair amount of prone shooting. I’m assuming I’ll be spending a few hundred on it....

I’m also seeing almost everyone upgrading their rail on the RPR. I was looking at the arca rail but not sure if it’s a worthwhile upgrade. Opinions welcome.

I use a harris personally. Atlas is popular. Not a huge fan of my magpul.
I’d run the rrs arca/picatinny adaptor for the respective bipod so that it’s future adaptable because I foresee it all going to arca.
Then just mount a small section of picatinny or an arca rail and have fun.

 

[308FTW]

Sounds good to me!

Is a leveling device a good idea? I’ve seen them on bases, clamp ons on the optic and rail, and even the electric ones. Is one of those options a good idea?

I don’t plan on doing a barrel or trigger until I shoot out what I’ve got. Just trying to set myself up for success. Also want to maybe keep it production class legal....

Really appreciate the advice.

 

[spife7980]

I dont use one but its not gonna hurt anything having it there. I just have never found the need for a level.

 

[ironsight1000yard]

This.

I have the Seekins AR high rings for my RPR. They also make same rings and marks them as vortex precision for vortex.

Good enough.

If you want better get a Sphur with same height

Its a 34mm scope so you just need some 34mm rings.
Get the rings that are 1.5" tall so that there is ample room to clear the hand guard and to allow you to get enough cheek space.

 

[308FTW]

Any specific model of the Harris? And size?

 

[spife7980]

6-9 swivel with notched legs is the default. Add on a kmw “podloc” and it’s solid.

Tac supply talons or hawk hill feet and it will dig into and bite anything for an easy zero slide.

 

[Eustice]

Rings: Not sure what objective size you have because you didn’t post it and I’m too lazy to google it. But you’ll want 1.4” or higher. Not to worry because there is an adjustable cheek riser that goes pretty high. The odds of you buying rings that are too high are slim. I like NightForce, Badger, and Seekins (or the Vortex rings which are rebranded Seekins).

Bipod: The sky is the limit on bipods. Harris is the bottom of the ladder in price but a very solid choice. I have 4 of them and I’ve not felt the need to go to an Atlas or one of the others that cost twice as much. Do not buy champion or Blackhawk or any other knockoff. They are garbage and you will feel why as soon as you touch it. The RPR should have come with a Keymod rail section. If you buy a bipod with a pic rail attachment then use it. If you buy a Harris then the keymod sling mount from Impact Weapons Components is solid and it costs $10. No need for a $30 rail and a $60 bipod adapter.

Front rail: Yes, people change them out. No, you don’t need to. The front rail may be wonky from Ruger. There are 6 screws that hold it on to the barrel but. Loosen all 6. Keep rail straight and centered. Tighten all 6 in an alternating pattern to torque spec (I think 35 in/lbs). Use the RPR front rail and save $250.

You didn’t ask about this but I’ll tell you

The 20 MOA rail on top of the receiver is not part of the receiver like an AR. It has screws that hold it on. Remove the rail, clean underneath it, and replace it. Use loctite and torque them to spec. I don’t recall what that spec is right now. I want to say 20 in/lbs but check google. There is “20 MOA” engraved on the rear of the rail. When you putnit back on make sure you put it on the correct direction. I don’t think it will go on backwards but stranger things have happened.

 

[308FTW]

Thank you!

 

[Eustice]

One few more things:

The bolt shroud is the black tubular extension on the rear of the bolt. Some of them were covered under a recall. You can check Ruger’s website to see if yours was affected. I don’t really even remember what was wrong with it. But they will send you a replacement. A lot of people would replace the bolt shroud with one from LRI. I’m not sure why. I guess it was better in some way. I still have the original and it works fine.

On the back of the shroud is a cap that unscrews. It is a tool that helps with bolt disassembly and there is also a hex key that will fit the trigger to adjust pull weight. That cap can and will unscrew and fall back into the tube that the bolt rides in. It probably has a name but it would be similar in location to a buffer tube on an AR. Take the cap off and put a tiny bit of thread locket on there and put it back on. Mine has come loose several times. It has never caused a problem but the potential is there.

The bolts seem to be machined by students in a high school vocational program and are also very prone to corrosion if you take it out in adverse conditions or live in South Carolina like me, where the humidity is currently 290%. Take some Flitz polish and a rag (or lightly with a dremel and polishing wheel) and work the bolt over. Pay special attention to the part that rides against the folding mechanism. It can lessen or get rid of that zipper noise that occurs when you cycle the bolt. Also, the Flitz will help prevent the corrosion on the bolt itself.

The Magpul LR/SR mags that came with it; sell them in the PX or throw them in the trash. Knight’s Armament M110 20 round mags are the cat’s pajamas. Never a misfeed in over 1500 rounds. The LR/SR mags it comes with suck. AICS pattern mags work well, AI or Magpul. But having 20 rounds on tap solves a lot of issues. Like never having to change a mag during a stage at a match, or in the case of a LE Marksman, worrying about running out of ammo.

I’m sure I’ll think of some more stuff. I’ll add it when it comes to me. I like mine a lot.

Pic for attention. At the Guardian Long Range Match at Frontline Defense in North Carolina. Day one was a frog drowner.

 

[Eustice]

Okay, another thing that comes to mind:

There are several different variations of mag release extensions that go in by way of a single screw. These are ambidextrous and make changing a mag much easier. CTK makes one that’s available in Midway for about $37. I don’t have one on mine but have handled an RPR with one and it was a pretty good product. There are other brands available but they make dropping the mag much easier.

I also will agree with the 6-9” Harris. In my picture I posted above that’s what I am using. I have never found a situation where 6-9” didn’t suit me. I actually leave it two notches out and don’t change it too much. That probably puts it at about 7”? Get the swivel with the notched legs and a KMW pod-loc. Don’t mess with that knob to tighten them. Even if you’re one notch off between the legs the swivel feature will allow you to level it. I have mine tightened enough to be stable, but loose enough that I can level the reticle.

 

[308FTW]

Thanks brother!

The scope I have is 3-18x. Can you give me your opinion on what ranges I can shoot at effectively with that magnification? Is is sufficient for the rifle? Or should I try to swap it out for something with more magnification? I feel like 24x is what I see most people run. I’ve also read posts from guys that shoot precision matches saying they never push past 18x anyway... but I’m clueless.

 

[Eustice]

I have a 5-25x on there. I really don’t ever use it over about 12-14x. Too much zoom and you get lost too easily. Your 3-18x is fine. You can outshoot the rifle with that.

 

[atepointer]

One few more things:

The bolt shroud is the black tubular extension on the rear of the bolt. Some of them were covered under a recall. You can check Ruger’s website to see if yours was affected. I don’t really even remember what was wrong with it. But they will send you a replacement. A lot of people would replace the bolt shroud with one from LRI. I’m not sure why. I guess it was better in some way. I still have the original and it works fine.

On the back of the shroud is a cap that unscrews. It is a tool that helps with bolt disassembly and there is also a hex key that will fit the trigger to adjust pull weight. That cap can and will unscrew and fall back into the tube that the bolt rides in. It probably has a name but it would be similar in location to a buffer tube on an AR. Take the cap off and put a tiny bit of thread locket on there and put it back on. Mine has come loose several times. It has never caused a problem but the potential is there.

The bolts seem to be machined by students in a high school vocational program and are also very prone to corrosion if you take it out in adverse conditions or live in South Carolina like me, where the humidity is currently 290%. Take some Flitz polish and a rag (or lightly with a dremel and polishing wheel) and work the bolt over. Pay special attention to the part that rides against the folding mechanism. It can lessen or get rid of that zipper noise that occurs when you cycle the bolt. Also, the Flitz will help prevent the corrosion on the bolt itself.

The Magpul LR/SR mags that came with it; sell them in the PX or throw them in the trash. Knight’s Armament M110 20 round mags are the cat’s pajamas. Never a misfeed in over 1500 rounds. The LR/SR mags it comes with suck. AICS pattern mags work well, AI or Magpul. But having 20 rounds on tap solves a lot of issues. Like never having to change a mag during a stage at a match, or in the case of a LE Marksman, worrying about running out of ammo.

I’m sure I’ll think of some more stuff. I’ll add it when it comes to me. I like mine a lot.

Pic for attention. At the Guardian Long Range Match at Frontline Defense in North Carolina. Day one was a frog drowner.

View attachment 7130857

Is there something going on there with a lower butt pad? Could just be the angle.

 

[Daherc]

The scope I run is a 4.5-27, and I rarely ever go over 16-18 power. You should be fine. That scope should easily take you out to 1,000 yards.

 

[Eustice]

Is there something going on there with a lower butt pad? Could just be the angle.

Butt pad isn’t visible in that pic. It’s completely obscured by my arm. I see my left hand (in a black/white mechanix glove), the lower pic rail for attaching a monopod, and down below my arm is a small rear squeeze bag that hangs from the butt stock by 550 cord so it doesn’t get lost upon movement from position to position. Let me know if that answered it or shoot me a PM.

 

[atepointer]

Butt pad isn’t visible in that pic. It’s completely obscured by my arm. I see my left hand (in a black/white mechanix glove), the lower pic rail for attaching a monopod, and down below my arm is a small rear squeeze bag that hangs from the butt stock by 550 cord so it doesn’t get lost upon movement from position to position. Let me know if that answered it or shoot me a PM.

Ok got it thanks.

 

[308FTW]

Anyone have a link to a write up regarding how I should break in the barrel?

 

[hlee]

Anyone have a link to a write up regarding how I should break in the barrel?

Go buy a case of hornady 140 or 147 gr eldm match ammo. Run a few patches down the barrel to remove any machining debris or packing grease/oil. Take ammo and rifle to range. Shoot enough ammunition to get a zero at your chosen distance. Shoot more. Stress less.

 

[Eustice]

A few patches down the bore then shoot it.

 

[308FTW]

Easy day. Thanks!

 

[DownhillFromHere]

Thanks brother!

The scope I have is 3-18x. Can you give me your opinion on what ranges I can shoot at effectively with that magnification? Is is sufficient for the rifle? Or should I try to swap it out for something with more magnification? I feel like 24x is what I see most people run. I’ve also read posts from guys that shoot precision matches saying they never push past 18x anyway... but I’m clueless.

18X is plenty for practice/competition. The reason for getting more magnification(at least for me) is to see holes in paper targets out to 200-250 yards (when mirage cooperates) or hits on steel to 1000. The biggest lesson I learned in my first PRS match two years ago is "Turning magnification up past 12-15x sets you to finding targets through a soda straw."

Since you asked about breaking in the barrel: lots of threads on SH about that with no definitive answer. My only advice is don't do mag dumps through it. I had a young man with a new RPR ask me for advice one day; he didn't pay much attention to what I was saying because he would fire ten rounds in under 30-40 seconds, reload, and dump the other mag. You could smell the burning barrel. Heat is the barrel's worst enemy; my rule of thumb (others may say different) is I don't get my truck-axle M24/40-contour barrel too hot to comfortably grip firmly. Of course, a ten-round string in a match breaks that rule.

 

[clcustom1911]

Thanks brother!

The scope I have is 3-18x. Can you give me your opinion on what ranges I can shoot at effectively with that magnification? Is is sufficient for the rifle? Or should I try to swap it out for something with more magnification? I feel like 24x is what I see most people run. I’ve also read posts from guys that shoot precision matches saying they never push past 18x anyway... but I’m clueless.

On my Tikka 7mm RemMag With my Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 3-15x scope I regularly shoot at 1 MOA sized steel out to 1500 yards. Sometimes I hit. ?

more magnification is not always better. I'll take repeatable adjustments (tracking) and optical clarity in a 15x scope over a 24x scope with some fuzzy.