-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
It is the firing pin back, not the pin. And yes, I contacted Ruger and they made it right. Ruger could not be more helpful.
Yeah, I ended up ordering a case that I hope will hold it when folded. Tough finding one tall enough. I’ve also switched from hard cases to soft. The hard sided just weighed too much when empty. I’ll keep them for flying, but not gonna haul them back and forth to the range anymore.
New to the group. Going to be getting a RPR Gen2 in 6mm Creed. I got a smoking deal on it that I couldn't pass up. I have a few other 6.5 Creed's in other guns but this is my first RPR. I read alot of good they about the 6creed but was intending to rebarrel to a 6.5 Creed. Was not trying to get into another caliber but still may. Anyone is White Oak prefit? I have an AR 15 with a white oak barrel that is a laser. Any opinions?
Anyone run into this; My questions to Burris support, "I have a Burris XTR ii 5-25X50 and I need to adjust the top turret down. I’ve read the manual several times but im not having any luck. I loosen the hex nuts, lifted the turret, set it back 2-5 clicks more, pushed the turret back down and tightened the hex screws. When I do this I can’t adjust the turret up again? It’s like it’s hitting the old zero stop. What else can I try? "
Their reply; "
Your Ruger precision rifle has an integrated 20moa rail. Given that the rings you are using are "high" , there may be a chance that the scope is sitting too high above the bore and with the addition of the 20moa cant, your scope may not have enough adjustment to zero at this distance.
From what you describe, the elevation turret is stuck between it's maxed point where the turret has no more adjustment and the zero stop only allowing the adjustment you have stated.
We would be happy to evaluate your scope. Is your scope MIL or MOA? What reticle does your scope have? We will create you a return once we have this information so we can select the correct item number."
I'm having this problem because i've taken a stab at reloading and my reloads are impacting higher. I only need 2-3mils! I'll take any suggestions.
Their reply; "
Your Ruger precision rifle has an integrated 20moa rail. Given that the rings you are using are "high" , there may be a chance that the scope is sitting too high above the bore and with the addition of the 20moa cant, your scope may not have enough adjustment to zero at this distance.
From what you describe, the elevation turret is stuck between it's maxed point where the turret has no more adjustment and the zero stop only allowing the adjustment you have stated.
We would be happy to evaluate your scope. Is your scope MIL or MOA? What reticle does your scope have? We will create you a return once we have this information so we can select the correct item number."
I'm having this problem because i've taken a stab at reloading and my reloads are impacting higher. I only need 2-3mils! I'll take any suggestions.
Drewdemon, the instructions for adjustment are rather confusing as described in the manual... I used to have one of these scopes but no longer do so I am going from what I read in the manual and what I remember. Following the 5 step process as described in your manual (I looked at the one available for download on-line). Below is a paraphrase of the instructions which may help clear things up for you.
1. Turn the elevation adjustment knob to "0."
2. Loosen the set screws as described in step 2 so that turret turns freely.
3. Follow step 3 just as described. For example, if you think you will need an additional 3 mils of adjustment, pull turret up and turn it clockwise between 3.2 and 3.5 mils to give yourself the room to adjust for 3.0 mils.
4. This is the step, if I remember correctly, that was confusing to me... DON'T PUSH THE TURRET DOWN AT THIS POINT, but instead tighten the set screws with the turret pulled up so that your turret has room to adjust down without bottoming out. Next go shoot and zero your rifle... You should have, if you adjusted correctly, an additional 3.2 to 3.5 mil of down adjustment from your prior position.
5. Once your rifle has been zeroed, follow what step 5 says to do (loosen set screws, slip turret to "0" index mark, then PUSH FIRMLY DOWN on turret and turn turret clockwise until it bumps into the Zero Stop. Then, while continuing to push down, tighten the set screws).
Hopefully, this will help you figure it out. I was hoping a current owner would have come along to help you out but since there were no takers I took a shot.
Good luck!
1. Turn the elevation adjustment knob to "0."
2. Loosen the set screws as described in step 2 so that turret turns freely.
3. Follow step 3 just as described. For example, if you think you will need an additional 3 mils of adjustment, pull turret up and turn it clockwise between 3.2 and 3.5 mils to give yourself the room to adjust for 3.0 mils.
4. This is the step, if I remember correctly, that was confusing to me... DON'T PUSH THE TURRET DOWN AT THIS POINT, but instead tighten the set screws with the turret pulled up so that your turret has room to adjust down without bottoming out. Next go shoot and zero your rifle... You should have, if you adjusted correctly, an additional 3.2 to 3.5 mil of down adjustment from your prior position.
5. Once your rifle has been zeroed, follow what step 5 says to do (loosen set screws, slip turret to "0" index mark, then PUSH FIRMLY DOWN on turret and turn turret clockwise until it bumps into the Zero Stop. Then, while continuing to push down, tighten the set screws).
Hopefully, this will help you figure it out. I was hoping a current owner would have come along to help you out but since there were no takers I took a shot.
Good luck!
I have an AR barrel that's a laser. Their RPR barrels seem to be more cost efficient
I really like mine! Accuracy is great out of the factory barrel. Mine doesn't like some of my AICS magazines for some reason, so I just don't use them. I've been using Magpul mags and they work just fine. I also took my bolt out and wet sandpapered it to get all the machine marks off. Now it runs really smooth.
at first AI mags fit really tight in mine and acted like they didn’t wanna lock in. That’s no longer the case for me tho. Eventually it gets easier.
Anyone running the pmags that let you seat bullet longer ? I'm wanting to play with seating depth on the loads for my RPR and don't wanna drop80$ on accuracy mag if the pmags are doing okay?
SR Pmags are right on the fringe of working for me. Magpul AICS pattern mags are cheaper and work good. Also Ruger has an AICS mag out as well that has worked great for me so far in a couple different rifles.
For you RPR owners that have NOT changed your stock, what height scope mount or rings are you using?
I’m a beginner and am having a hard time getting behind my scope. I have a Gen 3 RPR with a 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-Delta Mount that’s about 1.5” high. There’s enough scope clearance to easily go 3/8” lower if I wanted, but I don’t know if that will be too low to get a proper view thru the scope. If course, the fact that I have old eyes and wear progressive lens glasses does not help with the situation.
I’m a beginner and am having a hard time getting behind my scope. I have a Gen 3 RPR with a 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-Delta Mount that’s about 1.5” high. There’s enough scope clearance to easily go 3/8” lower if I wanted, but I don’t know if that will be too low to get a proper view thru the scope. If course, the fact that I have old eyes and wear progressive lens glasses does not help with the situation.
Why not raise your cheek piece so you can use your existing mount? I am using an ADM mount that is the same height as you and my cheek piece is just barely raised above flush with the tube. Now I understand everyone is different but I would think you would be able to raise your cheek piece enough to make you current mount work.
Last edited:
I've been using the Magpul PMAG 5 and PMAG 10 7.62 AC AICS Short Action magazines which allow 2.86" max length and have been very happy with their performance. I'd feel comfortable recommending them if 2.86" or less length works for you.
Awesome thx,
I'm needing to go pick one up as I'm chasing the lands in the rpr and it feels like I need to seat the bullet a mile lol
I'm needing to go pick one up as I'm chasing the lands in the rpr and it feels like I need to seat the bullet a mile lol
And if those don't quite work for you, you might want to check out the Alpha Type 2 mag. With 3200 rounds down my .308 RPR, that lands is pretty far away when I want to load close to it. Loaded up some 175 TMK's to within .003 of the lands resulting in a COAL of 2.964 and they barely fit in my Alpha mag. . . .but at least they did fit and all functioned well.
http://www.alphaindmfg.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=18&product_id=51
Just got back from the GS. Cut down the factory 6.5cm barrel to 17”. I will post chrono results like some asked for when I shoot it, but here’s some pics for now.
My current mount is borrowed so I can use it to try and figure out what I need for a mount. Because of my inexperience, I have many variables I’m trying to figure out. If I have to crank up the cheek piece to get a decent view thru the scope then I can afford to get a lower mount, and then lower the cheek piece to match. But, if I have to lower the cheek piece all the way to get a good view thru the scope with my current mount then I can’t/shouldn’t get a lower mount as it will be too low. Since I’m unable to get a repeatable good view thru the scope at any height cheek piece I’m getting a bit annoyed. I know I need more time behind the rifle to figure it out, but I’m also trying to find out what most of you have to see if I’m at least going in the right direction.
Of course, all of the above assumes the scope is mounted at the correct distance from my eye and that the reticle is properly focused, neither of which may be properly done.
Thanks, that’s the info I was hoping to collect from others just to get an idea of what they had for a setup.
Everyone’s cheek bones and facial structure is different. You should be running it where it’s most comfortable for you.
I run 1.45” rings on my Gen 2 and I have my cheek piece as low as it’ll go. But I agree with trob, everyone’s facial structure is different.
Hard case for a folded 6.5 CM RPR
Would a folded RPR (about 6” thick) fit in a Pelican Storm iM3200 that is 6” deep (interior dimension) or a Nanuck 990 that is also 6” deep? I would prefer these “shorter” cases if a folded RPR can comfortably fit in them. Anyone store their folded RPR in a hard case? If so, what is the model and interior depth of your case? Thanks.
Would a folded RPR (about 6” thick) fit in a Pelican Storm iM3200 that is 6” deep (interior dimension) or a Nanuck 990 that is also 6” deep? I would prefer these “shorter” cases if a folded RPR can comfortably fit in them. Anyone store their folded RPR in a hard case? If so, what is the model and interior depth of your case? Thanks.
I have a Gen1 RPR and an iM3100 case which is also 6" deep. With a layer of foam taken out it fits in there fine.
It is the stock barrel with a Lil Bastard brake on it. It JUST fits in. It is fine for the car but I would not fly with it.
Had to share this group I shot today at 600. A little low due to the cooler temperatures, but I expected that and just didn’t bother adjusting. Hoping that one far left is my cold bore. The other four are just over an inch. This was the .308 with 190 SMK.
Can anyone measure/provide the minimum length of pull achievable with a Magpul PRS Gen 3 stock mounted on an 6.5 CM/6 CM/.308 Win RPR?
My current RPR stock LOP is set at 14” but I seem to remember coming across some postings that claim the minimum they could set them to was 15” which would obviously not meet my needs. It would be great to get some actual measurements.
My current RPR stock LOP is set at 14” but I seem to remember coming across some postings that claim the minimum they could set them to was 15” which would obviously not meet my needs. It would be great to get some actual measurements.
Thanks guys... looks like it is either a chop on a Magpul PRS or a Luth AR MBA 1 or 3 stock. None of these options feel perfect for me at this point and all require some level of compromise. Think I will just keep the original factory stock on it for now and live with its deficiencies for the time being until something better comes along. Thanks for the inputs.
I just got done with a case of 190gr Nosler customs comps I loaded over 4064, it did well for me on steel and coyotes. Have you considered switching to the 178 ELD? I will be this fall, very similar BC and higher possible speeds.
Some other options to look at would be stock from XLR Industries, the MDT Skeleton Carbine stock, and the LMT Carbine DMR stock. They should all be able to be set up with a LOP similar to the factory stock, possibly shorter, especially if you were to use XLRs shortened tube with their stock. I would probably call or email LMT about their to confirm length of pull before ordering, as there is very little info posted on their website.
For what it's worth, I tried several aftermarket stocks, including the Gen 3 PRS and the Luth-AR, and ended up settling back on the factory stock.
I tried some of a buddy’s 178 ELD once at 1000 and they performed really well. Even on an October day when it was pretty cold and a bit breezy. I’d definitely recommend them.
Finally got the chance to try her at 1k yards. Took a class over the weekend since I'm new to the long range game. Once I got strelok calibrated (needed to adjust the bc) I was able to hit a 3 moa plate consistently from 200 to 1k yards. The wind kept changing which added a fun element! I'm really liking the Anarchy vertical grip too. More comfortable then several AR grips I've tried.
Now at the point where I'm looking at a good scope for my RPR and thinking about how to best mount it for precision shooting. Are Stehr scope mounts worth the price? While I generally take the view, "buy once cry once," if there's another single piece that people recommend, I'd appreciate the advice.
