I've shoot some factory 155 amax around 2750 with a buddies chrono out of my 26" 1:12 twist. That still is the best round for my remy. I just got a case of prime 130's for my 6.5 pushing around 2850 (according to Prime's BC data) I'm itching to try, just can't find the spuhr I need in stock anywhere for my amg. He's been out of them for a few weeks now
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My Gen2 came just like that, off center and canted brake. I actually picked mine up at Dicks and they price matched another shop that had a .308 "I got the 6.5CM" at a good price, got it home looked it over and noticed that things were off. Thought it was just a Dicks thing, guess not. And yeah, It drives me nuts. when I look down the rifle it looks like the barrel is pointing to the right by an 1" or more. But I love the plat form and if it bugs be to much later then I will replace the forend and later the barrel after I smoke out the factory one.
Why not just loosen the handguard, realign it to be straight then tighten it back up.
You might want to check & see how much windage correction you had to put in the scope to zero the scope. If it was lots, then the problem might be the barrel - It was on mine. Turned out the hand guard was straight and the barrel was off to one side. Initial impact point with the scope windage set a zero produced an impact more than 10 FT away from POA. Got a new barrel and all is perfect now. Just a thought. -G
I need to add a rail to the top of my enhanced or 2nd gen RPR. I want to attach my PVS30 to the top of the handguard but dont see any rails with 25cm spacing. Anyone tried this before? I guess I could buy a aftermarket free float tube with rail built in but I was hoping to get away cheap.
Holy sh?t! See I thought that too b/c like i said I look down the gun and its the barrel that look off not the for-end. I'll shoot it this weekend and see what happens. I do want to keep it factory for the Production class of PRS if I ever get to shoot in something like that. But I have already been looking at the LRI replacement barrels and Seekins fore-ends. How does this sh?t leave the factory on a 1500 dollar rifle WTF is quality anymore with them.
I'd definitely recommend doing this, as I found out the hard way that the base will work itself loose. I had a strangely bad group during sight-in right before a match and didn't realize until I got home that night that the base was rattling around. Wish I had caught that earlier...
Aren't those like $11,500? Why would you worry about cheap? Just asking'.....not being a dick.
Ya Im doing that when I get some free time. The way the rugers have been getting put together lately makes me
thing twice about trusting it from the factory.
Possum Hollow #313, arrived last night, perfect fit. On a Gen II with the brake, you will need a 38" rod. My 36" won't quite clear.
Doesn't it mount to a standard 1913 pic rail? But after that kind of investment I wouldn't go cheap. I'd look for a strong reliable solution to keep that thing safe. But if you want to go cheap just get a good rail section big enough for it and attach to the Handguard where you need it to mount the night sight properly.
The PVS30 sits on a rail right now, the KRG is a bolt on section. I used blue locktite and dont expect it to fall off. The stock handgaurd has holes that seem like they were made for a rail but might be heat holes but I didn't design it. My only issue with the stock handgaurd is the fact it might moved with the heavy NVG sitting out there. The PVS30 is closer to $3500 used.
The holes are for rail sections. The handguard is easy to swap out too. I use the MI 18" handguard. Hardest part is getting the damn factory barrel nut loose.
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Does anyone have a GOOD video of taking down the barrel nut? I actually broke the teeth off mine using a three foot bar and a Magpul wrench....Ruger fixed it good as new, no charge, but still, that was a lotta torque. The wrench was totally unharmed, BTW.
I had the same problem (off-center hand guard) and it's most likely the mounting flange that is secured by a retaining nut adjacent to the barrel nut (on a Gen 2). As you know, the hand guard is screwed to this mount with 6 screws. The hand guard has an alignment fork that straddles the top of the receiver. The holes and the screws are beveled to ultimately align the hand guard to its mount. But if the mount is not perfectly centered in relation to the receiver, the holes will not perfectly line up with the screw threads and the alignment fork will hold the hand guard in place as you torque the screws down. This will cause the hand guard to warp and be off center in relation to the barrel.
Remove the hand guard, loosen the retaining nut and turn the mount flange until you can line up all the screw holes perfectly. It will be a tiny adjustment and it's a little challenging to get it just right... probably why it's not done so accurately at the factory. But you'll know it's right because the screws will thread in all the way without any effort - as the holes are all in alignment and not binding.
If you've got yourself a flat rail, has anyone actually fired this rifle with open sights, or have them on there as an option? I was just curious
So I was hanging in the cave last night, and wanted to do something about the buttstock on the Ruger Precision before the match on Saturday. After looking around I gathered up a few loose pieces and fixed it. My issue with this rifle has been the horrid buttstock. Specifically the rough, unsliding bottom where the rail is and the sharp edges on the nose where a bench shooters hand must reside. After a 100 count day of shooting, my left hand felt like I had stuck it in a blender. The pictures show my version of a fix. The "rail" is a section of PLASTIXrevolution picatinney work block turned upside down so it engages the rail, some creative grinder work to taper the inside snugly engage the buttstock pad, a sliced off wood press handle ball, a 7/8" bolt and some JB weld. A little black rattle can to smooth up the appearance and the result is a slightly (1") elevated slick bottom bag rider with a very comfortable ball grip for pulling the butt into my shoulder. This helps relieve some of the tension I was holding on the grip to keep the rifle firmly planted in the shoulder muscle, leaving my trigger hand and finger with very little tension to get a great sensitive feel on the 1.5# trigger.
GRIZ44Mag
GRIZ44Mag
^ That's a good idea too. You can get them here..
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...320000021226&gclid=CI_7-KjRptMCFUY9gQod_NgDcw
You can get half round ones too for a flat edge against the bottom of the rail.
Do do you know how he attached it? You could always drill and tap it and recess the screw heads.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...320000021226&gclid=CI_7-KjRptMCFUY9gQod_NgDcw
You can get half round ones too for a flat edge against the bottom of the rail.
Do do you know how he attached it? You could always drill and tap it and recess the screw heads.
k so back a page or two I was complaining about the canted for-end and was told that it could be the barrel that is canted on my Gen2 6.5 Creedmoor. Well it is I mean you can see it plane as day. But anyways I took it out to the range yesterday for a break it and to see if it liked my hand loads. First in the pic of the Turrets on my Athlon Argos BTR you can see "pic is rotated on purpose" that i have the turret set to zero at the 3.5 mark/line. You can't see it real well but the elevation is right on the 2nd line. So tons of windage to make up for the barrel pointing right of center. But the rifle shoots. I loaded up some 140 Hrdy BTHPs with some Federal 210's and Varget. those shot well. I was shooting from the Atlas Bipod on a bench thats a little to tall for this. But the rounds are going where they need to. I then fired the only box of factory that I have bought, the 129sst Superformance and they shot fine. I bought a pound of the SuperFormance powder to load with and I don't think its going to work out. 10 rounds of it with 140's didn't do so well. I have more Varget and bought some IMR 4166 to try as well. So until I round up the coin to replace the barrel and for-end I'll shoot the hell out of this barrel. I as for the turret I hold for wind anyways like 90% of the time. If this was a capped windage turret like the NightForce SHV 4-14 F1 that I almost put on here than I wouldn't even care. OK first time at putting pics on here as well. Hope they turned out.
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Nice. When I was shooting factory ammo that Superformance worked best for me at 1000. I liked it. Some fine tuning and you'll be set
Since H4350 powder is rare as hen's teeth, I picked up some RL-17 locally. It has been very consistent in the 6.5 CM Bushmaster conversion and now produces very good results in the Ruger Precision..
I ran a batch of Hornady 143gr ELD=X through it today. (I have a hunting trip for hogs at the end of the month)
The 143gr is the heaviest bullet to date I have shot from the Ruger.
All rounds were loaded .020 off the throat.
I use a magnetospeed to benchmark the speeds.
RL-17 42.0 gr = AVG of 2739 fps .812 MOA
RL-17 42.5 gr = AVG of 2790 fps .777 MOA
There were no signs of high pressure, so I will proceed to up the charge and re-test.
So far out of everything I have fed it, it seems to like the Sierra GameKings the best.
Todays shooting with the Gamekings (SIE #1728)
RL-17 42.5gr = avg 2808 with an SD of 4. .338 MOA (best group of the day of course)
I ran a batch of Hornady 143gr ELD=X through it today. (I have a hunting trip for hogs at the end of the month)
The 143gr is the heaviest bullet to date I have shot from the Ruger.
All rounds were loaded .020 off the throat.
I use a magnetospeed to benchmark the speeds.
RL-17 42.0 gr = AVG of 2739 fps .812 MOA
RL-17 42.5 gr = AVG of 2790 fps .777 MOA
There were no signs of high pressure, so I will proceed to up the charge and re-test.
So far out of everything I have fed it, it seems to like the Sierra GameKings the best.
Todays shooting with the Gamekings (SIE #1728)
RL-17 42.5gr = avg 2808 with an SD of 4. .338 MOA (best group of the day of course)
^ Those are some nice numbers Griz. I haven't fired the 6.5 CM but I imagine those would perform well at 1000. I dont have a crono but based on my dope and POI that's about where I am for velocity too using max charge. No signs of too much pressure either so I'm not slowing it down
I picked up a RPR 6.5 and have been working on my fundamentals. I’m new to the long game and have been working on groups, dry fire, reading, etc… I swapped out my MOA scope for a MIL (Burris XTR II 5-25X50, SCR). Now I have to re-zero my system. This may be a dumb question but my local range is 100 yards and now I need to zero in meters. 100 yards is not 100 meters (91.44).. how should I address that? Can someone point me in the right direction…thanks
yep. meters or yards. pick one and use it. in the US (unfortunately) yards is the dominant measurement so that's what I would do.
My friend thought the same thing when he got his first mil/mil scope. Had to explain that the scope doesn't care that 510 yard is also 466.34 meters for his Grendel 3.5mils up is a hit when zero'd at 100. On our local range we are actually 108 yards to the targets from the bench/firing line. Thats 98.76 meters....again doesn't matter. Put the zero range in the ballistics calculator and go.
I have an MRAD scope that I'm zeroing in yards anywhere from 100 to 1000. It's super easy once you get used to it
Well, you might have a canted barrel that will still print tight groups..............other than that nothing. I was on the fence and even complained about it on here. That was all before I even shot it. Now I'm a believer. When I'm done with the factory barrel I'll get a new one from LRI. Am I disappointed that I'm having to deal with the barrel canted and the muzzle brake canted, yeah...but its trivial shit b/c when my DeadAir SandMan Ti gets out of ATF jail then the muzzle brake is gone. And when I burn the factory Barrel out or it starts to give me troubles then its gone too. Also I think i'm one of few that likes the butt stock the way it is. One thing I don't like is all the sharp edges from the hardware above the grip from the folding stock adapter. I would love to take something to it to smooth all of that stuff out. I Also try not to shoot the rifle even at the range with out my gloves on. Wearing gloves helps keep my girl hands nice and soft....Anyways get one you will like it.
Just brought home my Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmore. It has a temporary scope on it till my Vortex Razor HD comes in and I can start shooting out to 1500 meters...well at least a 1000m for a while.
The compensator is clocked a little to the right and the lowest I can get the trigger is 2 1/4lbs
Overall impression is good ...trigger is OK if you are used to AR triggers this should feel just fine but having been used to real crisp, little take-up triggers on my other centerfire and rimfire bolt guns it feels a little weird, also its heavy and I'm sure it will get worse when I put the Vortex on it. I can't wait to take it out and test it to see if its money well spent or not.
The compensator is clocked a little to the right and the lowest I can get the trigger is 2 1/4lbs
Overall impression is good ...trigger is OK if you are used to AR triggers this should feel just fine but having been used to real crisp, little take-up triggers on my other centerfire and rimfire bolt guns it feels a little weird, also its heavy and I'm sure it will get worse when I put the Vortex on it. I can't wait to take it out and test it to see if its money well spent or not.
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My 6.5 CM RPR has the same issue with the brake. Does not affect accuracy. You doing much humping with that rifle Jarhead 
If not, no biggie on the weight.....it's lighter than a SAW w/ 200 round drum or a 240
I changed out that clunky stock with a Luth AR MBA1 and sold the factory stock on Ebay for $200....that was a net gain monetarily. I'm going to shoot the factory barrel for a while and see how it goes. I have 233 rounds down the barrel and it seems to be settling in. I've been using Prime 130gr but have some Hornady ELD 140gr coming in to try next. Early indications are the Hornady is grouping a little tighter than the Prime. My trigger came very light out of the box.....almost a little too light from what I'm used to but I've grown to like it. Accuracy/stock trigger for a factory rifle is far better than anything I've come across (Remington/Savage).
If not, no biggie on the weight.....it's lighter than a SAW w/ 200 round drum or a 240 I changed out that clunky stock with a Luth AR MBA1 and sold the factory stock on Ebay for $200....that was a net gain monetarily. I'm going to shoot the factory barrel for a while and see how it goes. I have 233 rounds down the barrel and it seems to be settling in. I've been using Prime 130gr but have some Hornady ELD 140gr coming in to try next. Early indications are the Hornady is grouping a little tighter than the Prime. My trigger came very light out of the box.....almost a little too light from what I'm used to but I've grown to like it. Accuracy/stock trigger for a factory rifle is far better than anything I've come across (Remington/Savage).
My 6.5 CM RPR has the same issue with the brake. Does not affect accuracy. You doing much humping with that rifle Jarhead
I changed out that clunky stock with a Luth AR MBA1 and sold the factory stock on Ebay for $200....that was a net gain monetarily. I'm going to shoot the factory barrel for a while and see how it goes. I have 233 rounds down the barrel and it seems to be settling in. I've been using Prime 130gr but have some Hornady ELD 140gr coming in to try next. Early indications are the Hornady is grouping a little tighter than the Prime. My trigger came very light out of the box.....almost a little too light from what I'm used to but I've grown to like it. Accuracy/stock trigger for a factory rifle is far better than anything I've come across (Remington/Savage).
My trigger was 1.99lbs when I got it. Most people I have spoken with have seen same thing. It seems roger sets the lightest pull when they ship them.
I just want to know how in the hell the barrel is canted on mine. Not just the muzzle brake which has no effect, but why is my barrel pointing to the right. As far as assembly goes doesn't the barrel get screwed into the receiver then just tightened down? Makes me think the hole and threads for the barrel cut into the receiver are cut at an angle. I would hate to put a nice barrel like the ones offered from LRI in it and the new barrel be off to the right too. Either way still shoots lights out.
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^ I actually use it for both and it works very well. The bench is of course more rigid and I find it likes to be given an inch or so to ride back. Long range I use it prone on my mat.
For you guys riding bags and rests, you might want to check these out. I had the front one on my AR15 and it performed well on the Caldwell front rest..
http://www.egwguns.com/ar-bag-riders/
http://www.egwguns.com/ar-bag-riders/
Thanks.
I had borrowed a friend's monopod and shot with it prone a bit. I'm not as bendy and I was in my youth and at the height I have to have things, the monopod felt a little wobbly.
A pity. It looked really good on the rifle.
No problem. Mine got a little wobbly after some use too. So I put some blue loctite on the screw that holds it to the rail and have been good ever since. To be honest, I probably squeezed the tiniest bit more accuracy out of the rifle by using a bag, but it's so convenient that I've just stuck with it.
Since the pig run is coming up in a little over a week, I made the range run tonight and pushed the Precision up the next notch on the ladder. I would like th eopinion of the experts here on how close, if not over, I am reaching to overpressure. My goal was to get <.75 MOA at 2800fps +. These loads do that. Every load shot less than .65MOA. Please take a look at the brass, ya'lls opinion please!
BTW, I was thrilled with the results, the rifle is a keeper. I will be looking into a better barrel in another hunting season, but for now, the money tree has very few leaves left.
https://goo.gl/photos/7XurdRhiVeCaX2Q89
BTW, I was thrilled with the results, the rifle is a keeper. I will be looking into a better barrel in another hunting season, but for now, the money tree has very few leaves left.
https://goo.gl/photos/7XurdRhiVeCaX2Q89
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^ It's tough to tell from a pic. I dont see anything obvious that I'd be concerned about. You should check the necks and shoulders as well
