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Is there any market for take off parts like barrels and hand guards? I bought 308 strip it down and redid everything.
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Just purchased a gen 2 6.5 that gets to sit in DROS jail for the next 10 days.
maybe I've missed it but does anyone have info on mount heights required for a 56mm objective scope? I would like to go with the badgers as I've used them before with good luck but I think they only go up to 1.49" and I'm not sure that's enough.
I've seen some never fired factory barrels on eBay and armslist going for anywhere between $100-$200.
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Any gen2 hand guards? Replacing mine as soon as I get it.
Any gen2 hand guards? Replacing mine as soon as I get it.
I'm trying to sell mine dude lol
My LGS has a few of these in stock, both 6.5 and .308 - I really want one. Probably get it in 308 and order a good LRI 6.5 barrel for it...
My only hesitation at this point of my research is the stock hinge... I've seen one or two folks say they loosen up... What's the deal? Guys that have 1000+ rounds through it, how's it holding up?
Just purchased a gen 2 6.5 that gets to sit in DROS jail for the next 10 days.
maybe I've missed it but does anyone have info on mount heights required for a 56mm objective scope? I would like to go with the badgers as I've used them before with good luck but I think they only go up to 1.49" and I'm not sure that's enough.
Is it easy to get off? I've never removed a brake before. I'd like to do it all myself, but the most I've done is assemble some AR lowers, so I'm inexperienced with tinkering with guns. .
My rifle arrives soon, as does my scope. Already got the rings. Just trying to figure out if I need to find a smith so I can begin looking to get that taken care of as soon as I get the rifle.
There was a post about a million pages back, 1.5" was good for up to 56+ clearance....
My Gen 2 had the same issue, as well as the hand guard being slightly off-center, and the muzzle brake being canted. I guessed mine was assembled on a Friday afternoon. Call me anal, obsessive, whatever, but I like my machines to be perfect. I don't expect anything to come from a manufacturer, at any price, to meet my standards. That is why my cars, motorcycles, guns, and other things that matter get thoroughly inspected and corrected as soon as I get them home. You'd be surprised at the flaws I have found. So I tore down the rifle and put it back together with everything properly torqued and aligned. I oiled the hand guard and of course, the coating on it soaked up the initial coat. But after a few trips to the range, subsequent cleanings and oiling, it has the same appearance of the rest of the rifle.
In the end, it may not matter how it looks, only how it performs. But I have found that how it (anything) performs is a reflection of the level of care it receives, which is often evident by how it looks. This is why Marines are obsessive about the maintenance of equipment, the proper wearing of the uniform and the fitness and training of the mind and body.
Brake removal is technically easy, physically can be hard. The brake has two parts: the brake body and the jam nut behind it that locks the brake body in position. Ruger torques these on hard. You don't necessarily need a barrel vise or action wrench, but I highly recommend that you secure the rifle - having a friend hold it will work. To remove, get a long punch or screwdriver that will fit in the center holes of the brake. A good 7/8" wrench on the jam nut. Heat the brake with a heat gun until its too hot to touch. Insert the screwdriver/punch, put the wrench on the jam nut, and simultaneously turn in opposite directions - turn the brake as if you are threading it OFF the muzzle, turn the jam nut as if you are tightening it on the muzzle. If you're one of the "lucky" owners with the jam nut up against the barrel shoulder, this will be a little tougher and may tweak the edges of the holes in the brake. It will take a LOT of torque, and mine popped loose like an overtightened lug nut. Good luck. BTW, Ruger sells these brakes for $85.
I love Cerakote but I'm going to wait a bit until the rifle shows some wear. I shoot a lot so it shouldn't be too long. Might as well get something out of this finish before tearing it all down and giving it a make-over... if I can wait it out. I'm really loving the two tone FDE and black look.
Damnnnn. RPR with 50 round drum mag by X Products
I've always thought the same thing. I'm just gonna let it wear and then give the whole rifle that makeover. Can't decide between FDE and OD. They both look awesome.
Had a decent day out at 1000 today. It was very cold and very windy so everyone was just kinda doing their best with what they had to work with. Probably the windiest I've shot at 1000. Was using 175 SMK's with 43.2gr Varget out of my 20" barrel. I usually get a whole lot of 10s and several Xs but today I got a whole lot of 9s with several 10s. That's ok though. 1000 is always a whole lot of fun and I got a zero on a load I can use on a more calm day. Think I'm gonna develop a 190gr SMK load. Good times!
Yeah, I've always wondered about that. I don't really have a need to be that camo'd.
If I did, then what about different seasonal colors , terrain types, rock vs grass, snow, etc.
I figured if I really needed to camo I'd just use different wraps of different colors/patterns.
Now if you just want to paint it because it looks bad-ass, then I'm 100% with you.
I don't hunt or anything, and I haven't gotten pissed enough yet to shoot a person. I only shoot paper and steel. If they do see me, it doesn't matter because they never run and they always get shot no matter what color rifle I use
Finished up a long range shooting class at Gunsite AZ a few weeks ago. First two pics are from the Gunsite ranges. 3rd pic is on the Biltmore Estate zeroing 100 yards in NC. Learned a lot about long range shooting, and a TON about spotting! This is definitely a hobby I am going to be spending a lot more time and money on! I may change to a 6.5 caliber. I hear all that's needed is just to change the barrel out, right?
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
Finished up a long range shooting class at Gunsite AZ a few weeks ago. First two pics are from the Gunsite ranges. 3rd pic is on the Biltmore Estate zeroing 100 yards in NC. Learned a lot about long range shooting, and a TON about spotting! This is definitely a hobby I am going to be spending a lot more time and money on! I may change to a 6.5 caliber. I hear all that's needed is just to change the barrel out, right?
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
Now if you just want to paint it because it looks bad-ass, then I'm 100% with you.
I didn't know the Biltmore had a range
You are correct - to change to 6.5CM is only a barrel change, but you will need go/no-go gauges if you change it yourself. -G
I asked a week ago or so about replacing the handguard on gen 2s. I know I'll need to remove the brake and the process for it. Will any AR-15 armorer's tool work for this process? I've only assembled AR lowers, but I don't have one of these tools.
Just curious what specific tools I need to swap the handguard.
^ What are you guys torquing it to? I'm at 60 ft/lbs
Here are my silly bag-rider experiments.
I started a picatinny rail cover that I sanded the texture off of. That worked pretty good, but I was finding my self not having tall enough rear bags or they seemed unstable at that height.
If you look at how much lower the bag riding portion of a stock like the AI stocks, I decided I wanted to extend the stock lower as well. So I tried slapping on some picatinny risers.
That works even better and I was able to slip the rail cover further back now because I can clear the toe of the stock butt. Surprisingly those bolts don't seem to get in my way. (I'm a lefty so my support hand is coming in from the other side.)
I'm still considering future options, but I'm on the right track for my personal comfort. However I wrap my thumb over the top of that lower riser. It's not really uncomfortable, but not optimal. I'm toying with other ideas.
My take-away so far:
1. Extending the solid portion of the stock lower is more stable than stacking up taller bags.
2. I like having a broader and longer surface to ride the bag.
3. This solution still has some sharp edges that could be improved upon. But I like what I have better than what I started with.
I've considered it.
But
1. Did I read about some LOP issues? I have about 13.5" LOP (measured from mid trigger to butt).
2. I really like the tilting butt pad. I really like angling it so it doesn't end up riding on my collar bone.
What mags are you guys running if you load longer rounds? I had Magpul AICS style mags for a Precision course this weekend and had numerous times when the bolt would not pick up a round. If I lifted the bottom rear of the mag a hair, bolt would catch the round.
Lots of slop with these mags.
Trying to find out if AI or Accurate metal mags will be a better fit. Also saw that Ruger makes a metal AI style mag as well.
What mags are you guys running if you load longer rounds? I had Magpul AICS style mags for a Precision course this weekend and had numerous times when the bolt would not pick up a round. If I lifted the bottom rear of the mag a hair, bolt would catch the round.
Lots of slop with these mags.
Trying to find out if AI or Accurate metal mags will be a better fit. Also saw that Ruger makes a metal AI style mag as well.
What mags are you guys running if you load longer rounds? I had Magpul AICS style mags for a Precision course this weekend and had numerous times when the bolt would not pick up a round. If I lifted the bottom rear of the mag a hair, bolt would catch the round.
Lots of slop with these mags.
Trying to find out if AI or Accurate metal mags will be a better fit. Also saw that Ruger makes a metal AI style mag as well.