Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I can't add any meaningful info to this thread, other than to say I ordered a gen 3 300 WM RPR a few days ago. I'm so damn excited, I can't stand myself. I'm so looking forward to scoping that thing and spending some quality time cuddled up with it.
I would be very interested to know your thoughts when you get it. I almost pulled the trigger on one before I did my AR-10 build and I almost regret it. Only issue is I have nowhere to shoot it that would make sense. Longest range I know of around here north of DFW is 1-200 yards.
 
I have to be honest with you, I have ZERO justification for buying that thing, other than the fact that I wanted one. The nearest range to me is an hour and a half away. There's just something sexy about something that will hit that far away with that kind of power. Makes me all warm inside. I got a taste of long-range shooting (1000+ yards) a few years ago, and the bug just bit. It'll probably be a bit before I get to give this thing a workout. I have to scope it and get some ammo put together. I'll try to post my impressions afterwards.
 
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I have to be honest with you, I have ZERO justification for buying that thing, other than the fact that I wanted one. The nearest range to me is an hour and a half away. There's just something sexy about something that will hit that far away with that kind of power. Makes me all warm inside. I got a taste of long-range shooting (1000+ yards) a few years ago, and the bug just bit. It'll probably be a bit before I get to give this thing a workout. I have to scope it and get some ammo put together. I'll try to post my impressions afterwards.
Fair enough. i went ahead and bought nice glass (or what I consider nice glass) to throw on my AR until I can justify a better rifle.
 
Is yours chambered in .300wm? I would love to have one And know your thoughts. I want a magnum so bad.
No, sorry, it's in 6.5. A friend has the 300. We were shooting it out past a mile. I forget what the distance was. We were shooting 190gr SMK. I don't remember it doing exceptionally well, but I really wished we could have been shooting at a closer distance to get a feel for how the rifle really did. I'll ask him how it's done for him since and reply back.
 
No, sorry, it's in 6.5. A friend has the 300. We were shooting it out past a mile. I forget what the distance was. We were shooting 190gr SMK. I don't remember it doing exceptionally well, but I really wished we could have been shooting at a closer distance to get a feel for how the rifle really did. I'll ask him how it's done for him since and reply back.
Hell yea brother. I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of his setup too if you can grab one.
 
Ok thanks I want to shoot 140 eld and 147 eld so I dont know if that first matched chamber will shoot the 147 I will call LRI on tuesday
Good idea about calling them. There is a YouTube video frank made 3-4 years ago with a RPR LRI barrel, it was shooting 130’s and 140’s really well
 
Anyone have Proof Research 6.5 on their RPR? How do they compare to LRI? I have LRI and it shoots great. I am looking to order another bbl to swap the LRI when its done. Thanks,

I just put a carbon proof 6.5 on mine. It has less than 200 rounds but looks very promising. It hardly gets hot at all.
 
It hardly gets hot at all.

On the outside. Remember, all the same heat and pressure is still there on the inside. I'd argue that the CF barrel is a poor choice for any rapid or sustained fire because it cannot dissipate heat fast enough, not nearly as well as an all steel barrel.
I'm interested in the idea of a CF barrel but only for a series of cold bore shots, not a series of quick shots like one would use in competition. My normal practice is to fire five rounds then wait a half hour before firing the next five and that's with a normal all steel barrel. I'd definitely practice this if I had a CF barrel.
 
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I was looking into the proof barrel listed above but I was thinking on a 26 and proof does not offer that length. What is you guys thought on 24 or 26 it has to be 50 feet per second faster but will that be a big deal. That is a good price on the Proof at midway
 
Damn I’ve got over 2k before I pulled mine off. Glad I did. The proof I put on shoots lights out
Better pic after some Butch's Bore Shine.....
2020-02-16-14-21-25.jpg
 
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I was looking into the proof barrel listed above but I was thinking on a 26 and proof does not offer that length. What is you guys thought on 24 or 26 it has to be 50 feet per second faster but will that be a big deal. That is a good price on the Proof at midway

50 fps faster depends on the cartridge and how that cartridge is loaded and the spec difference between the two barrel.

Roughly, you might see about 40 fps difference, assuming comparable SAAMI spec loads.
 
Shot this group today at 300 yards with 3700 rounds on my original RPR 6.5 barrel. Harris bipod and rear squeeze bag. Factory Hornady ELD-M 140-gr ammo.

Best-group-of-the-day-300-yards.jpg


Or viewed another way. ?
Shot-group-animation.gif
 
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Thanks
I was looking at this one as it on sale at the moment.



I bought one in 6.5 Creed for my RPR to replace the oem barrel but it never got installed as a new ruger takeoff 6mm creed barrel came up on the PX and that was installed first.

Although I did not shoot the proof barrel I did bore scope it and internally it looks as good as anything I have seen. I am talking about the all stainless barrel not the carbon fiber wrapped one. I dont think you can go wrong with a proof barrel. Check Stockys.
 
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On the outside. Remember, all the same heat and pressure is still there on the inside. I'd argue that the CF barrel is a poor choice for any rapid or sustained fire because it cannot dissipate heat fast enough, not nearly as well as an all steel barrel.
I'm interested in the idea of a CF barrel but only for a series of cold bore shots, not a series of quick shots like one would use in competition. My normal practice is to fire five rounds then wait a half hour before firing the next five and that's with a normal all steel barrel. I'd definitely practice this if I had a CF barrel.
This heat topic for cf barrels has been beaten to death especially here on the hide. I’ve shot 2 10 round strings, waited 5 mins then shot another 10. The proof cf shot fantastic each string. Now I will say I believe that it will heat up faster due to the thin steel core but it will cool that much faster as well. I’ve seen the RPR factory barrel start to walk after 15-20 rounds, I would then wait usually 15 sometimes 20 min before I shot again.

With my 224 Valkyrie ss bartlein on the other hand, I can’t shoot more than 20 rounds down it in one sitting. Usually end up waiting at least 10 minutes with a barrel cooler in it before I can shoot again.. It is only a rem sendero contour though.

To each their own. I wouldn’t hesitate taking this barrel to a comp. My barrel cooler goes in between stages anyway.
 
So what’s the consensus on the RPR action life. Remember seeing a post a while back, can’t seem to find it about the RPR not being a 10,000 round action due to lug galling issues. Shooting about 3500 rounds a year now in PRS matches and practice and love my 6Creed with LRI barrels. Was planning on making it my main match rifle. Now hoping it’s not just a throwaway rifle after about 6 or 7 barrels. Thoughts? Anyone have high mileage on one of these able to report.
 
Sent Proof an email over a week ago with some basic questions. I was seriously considering going with them based in responses here. Haven't heard anything back from them. Will have a serious impact on my final decision.
 
My take on good prefit barrels would be
1 LRI
2 Proof
3 PVA
4 Kreiger

Pretty much anything will be better than the factory one, but it is a decent barrel to learn with.
What's the "big" difference between any of the listed barrels and the stock one? I can shoot tight groups with the factory barrel, bug holes at 100, less than 1MOA at 200 (multiple factory barrels.) I haven't upgraded to anything in the list yet but what's the difference? More accurate at distance? Maybe I'll understand for myself once i put a better barrel on it but figured id ask here...thanks
 
So what’s the consensus on the RPR action life. Remember seeing a post a while back, can’t seem to find it about the RPR not being a 10,000 round action due to lug galling issues. Shooting about 3500 rounds a year now in PRS matches and practice and love my 6Creed with LRI barrels. Was planning on making it my main match rifle. Now hoping it’s not just a throwaway rifle after about 6 or 7 barrels. Thoughts? Anyone have high mileage on one of these able to report.
It's a Ruger, If the lugs gall after 10-20000 rounds just send it back with a note what's wrong and they will fix you up like new. I sent in a Ruger vaquero 44 mag that I had bought second hand 20 some years ago (Yes, I told the very nice lady on the phone that it was 2nd hand to me) They fixed a 1/2 dozen items that I didn't even know was wrong and sent it back in a couple of week and it was like new! NO CHARGE. I am a customer for life now.
 
What's the "big" difference between any of the listed barrels and the stock one? I can shoot tight groups with the factory barrel, bug holes at 100, less than 1MOA at 200 (multiple factory barrels.) I haven't upgraded to anything in the list yet but what's the difference? More accurate at distance? Maybe I'll understand for myself once i put a better barrel on it but figured id ask here...thanks

What ammo? What’s the farthest you’ve shot? Mine shot one hole at 100 but that wouldn’t translate past 500. Best group I ever shot at 1000 was 7.5 inch 5 shot group with 130 Berger Federal gmm. Mine had 2000 plus down it and I got a killer deal on a cf proof prefit so I’m trying it out.
 
What ammo? What’s the farthest you’ve shot? Mine shot one hole at 100 but that wouldn’t translate past 500. Best group I ever shot at 1000 was 7.5 inch 5 shot group with 130 Berger Federal gmm. Mine had 2000 plus down it and I got a killer deal on a cf proof prefit so I’m trying it out.
I'm reloading 136 Scenar-L, 41.4 H4350, with Peterson brass. I haven't measured my groups at distance but I have shot out to 1k. For matches the range is anywhere from 500-700yards. So sounds like better accuracy at distance?
 
I'm reloading 136 Scenar-L, 41.4 H4350, with Peterson brass. I haven't measured my groups at distance but I have shot out to 1k. For matches the range is anywhere from 500-700yards. So sounds like better accuracy at distance?
Well you reload and that is a benefit on its own. You can tailor the ammo to the barrel and get it to shoot better. I use factory ammo and for me I felt the factory barrel was ok but a match barrel would do better. If yours is hammering with your loads I wouldn’t change anything until the barrel takes a dump.
 
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So what’s the consensus on the RPR action life. Remember seeing a post a while back, can’t seem to find it about the RPR not being a 10,000 round action due to lug galling issues. Shooting about 3500 rounds a year now in PRS matches and practice and love my 6Creed with LRI barrels. Was planning on making it my main match rifle. Now hoping it’s not just a throwaway rifle after about 6 or 7 barrels. Thoughts? Anyone have high mileage on one of these able to report.

The lugs can gall at anytime due to dirt or too tight cases, lack of lube, not round count.
 
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So what’s the consensus on the RPR action life. Remember seeing a post a while back, can’t seem to find it about the RPR not being a 10,000 round action due to lug galling issues. Shooting about 3500 rounds a year now in PRS matches and practice and love my 6Creed with LRI barrels. Was planning on making it my main match rifle. Now hoping it’s not just a throwaway rifle after about 6 or 7 barrels. Thoughts? Anyone have high mileage on one of these able to report.

After each cleaning, I put a little Outers Choke Tube & Gun Grease on the lugs.

Well, I've got 6500 .308 rounds on my PRP bolt . . . take a look at picks of each lug and judge for yourself :

Lug 1.jpg
Lug 2.jpg
Lug 3.jpg
 
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I replaced the original cocking piece of my gen II with the AD Arms part just to get ahead of a potential problem. I haven't even fired it yet. Next will likely be a Timney trigger but I want to try the factory unit first. It's not that bad.
 
I replaced the original cocking piece of my gen II with the AD Arms part just to get ahead of a potential problem. I haven't even fired it yet. Next will likely be a Timney trigger but I want to try the factory unit first. It's not that bad.

I just did that cocking piece replacement on my bolt, I don’t notice a difference running the bolt. The AD piece does look stronger than the factory piece to me.
 
I just did that cocking piece replacement on my bolt, I don’t notice a difference running the bolt. The AD piece does look stronger than the factory piece to me.

That's why replaced it, stronger than factory part, reported breakages of the factory part. Not because it worked easier. I can't really tell the difference either but now I don't have to be worried about breakage.
 
Anyone seeing an issue with a zero float? Mine seems to float roughly .2 when handled rough. Is there a way to bed these actions? It could also be the scope setup, but wanted to check to see if everyone else had a solid zero.
 
There is nothing to bed on these. I would check the barrel nut for proper torque. I did have some issues with mine but it was me not being consistent with setting up behind the rifle, after shooting it for some time it is much better. I still prefer regular stock to a chassis.

Anyone seeing an issue with a zero float? Mine seems to float roughly .2 when handled rough. Is there a way to bed these actions? It could also be the scope setup, but wanted to check to see if everyone else had a solid zero.
 
It is shooting well. Not have an issue when I am behind the rifle. Just not a true dead zero. This is the third barrel, this one in a 22 br. It shoots very small groups, but there is something loose somewhere. Not the barrel, but possible scope. I ended up using epoxy on the rail, just have not found the source yet.
 
It is shooting well. Not have an issue when I am behind the rifle. Just not a true dead zero. This is the third barrel, this one in a 22 br. It shoots very small groups, but there is something loose somewhere. Not the barrel, but possible scope. I ended up using epoxy on the rail, just have not found the source yet.

what do you mean by true dead zero?