Anydoby have a .308 RPR barrel with some life left in it that they are interested in selling?
I have a 6.5 creed with 1200 rounds I’m taking off next week
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Anydoby have a .308 RPR barrel with some life left in it that they are interested in selling?
How much are you going to be asking for that barrel. I would be willing to sell my 400 round old 308 if I can get a 6.5I have a 6.5 creed with 1200 rounds I’m taking off next week
How much are you going to be asking for that barrel. I would be willing to sell my 400 round old 308 if I can get a 6.5
What is your RPR System? Short of calling it a Sniper Weapon System (SWS) like the M24 SWS; what does your RPR dedicated system look like? I was evaluating my own last night and realized, that too much of the ground support for my rifle is shared across multiple rifle systems... I want to change that, even if I have to duplicate every tool, rag, or cleaning rod, just to stay dedicated. What triggered me was the latest video dropped by the Sniper's Hide, highlighting tool kits for your rifles.
Would any of you mind showcasing your system? If you have previously done so, would you mind posting again? Pics and lists would be greatly appreciated!
My next two purchases will be a dedicated compartmentalized rifle case, and one of the tool kits highlighted in the linked video. Or I may just add another Fatboy torque set to my kit. Thoughts?
Greetings everyone.....first post here.
I have a PRP in .308 with about 50 rds through it. I like it but noticed extraction issues. It is really hard to extract after certain shots. Not every shot fired but it happens quite often. Federal GMM ammo. I've cleaned the chamber and it's spotless with a barrel scope.
Anyone have the same issues?
I suspect the GGM brass is too soft. Quite a few years ago I witnessed the .308 168 GMM give hard extraction.Interesting. I tried the same factory ammo in my RPR .308 years back when I first bought it. It didn’t end up liking it but I had no extraction issues. Have you tried other ammo? Nosler custom competition worked very well. The brass has a thinner wall. Doesn’t exactly fix the problem but may work better.
Interesting. I tried the same factory ammo in my RPR .308 years back when I first bought it. It didn’t end up liking it but I had no extraction issues. Have you tried other ammo? Nosler custom competition worked very well. The brass has a thinner wall. Doesn’t exactly fix the problem but may work better.
I recently purchased a Gen 3 6.5 and had picked up a Viper PST Gen 1 6-24X50. I ended up getting the optic for a ridiculous price which is why I went with it. I am finally getting around to purchasing rings for it. I was looking at the Vortex and Seekins rings. Any advice on Ring height? I was looking at the Seekins 1.45 AR High set.
Thanks
Thanks!the Seekins AR high should be perfect. I’ve run them with my tx5i and XTR II.
Not sure why you would want to lighten one. The rifle is surely not designed as a hunting rifle in anyof the supplied calibers. One of the highlights to the RPR in my mind is the ease of shooting it. The added weight is one of the things that i believe makes it easy to shoot. Without the weight (particularly in magnum/high velocity calibers) I dont think it would be as easy and fun to shoot.Has anyone tried to considerably lighten one of these? What do they weigh with a proof carbon barrel? I'd guess around 8.5?
So, you want to spend at LEAST half as much again what a Sig Cross would cost; chop, lighten, a heavy, accurate, long range type rifle; so you had a "viable alternative" to the Cross? For hunting? I know modification is the name of the game, and I'm really not trying to be a dick, but I'm missing something here. I honestly don't get it. I absolutely love my 2 RPR's (6.5/.338 LM) but I feel there's a lot better actions out there to build a short, light weight, chassis type hunting/crossover rifle with.
Did a search and didn't find much.... just a factory recall notice thing about the early bolt shrouds. My RPR 6.5 didn't fall in that group of serial numbers.
I've got a gen 2 with about 3700 rounds through it. Lately, I've had a few instances of light primer strikes with a failure to fire. I run factory ammo.
I broke the bolt down not long ago for its first cleaning ever. I was surprised at clean it was inside (nothing really to clean). The light strikes happened before the cleaning. And, just yesterday, I had another light strike. Is it possible the firing pin needs to be replaced? Other causes?
Any ideas or input? Thanks!
Mine weighed around 15 lbs with a razor amg in a spuhr. The proof probably took off about 2-2.5 lbs.Has anyone tried to considerably lighten one of these? What do they weigh with a proof carbon barrel? I'd guess around 8.5?
Might need a new pin. Try a AO firing pin. It’s a great replacement.
I have one of those on my "wish list" at the AO website. Figured I'd be getting one eventually.
Glad you posted this! Was just looking at the ARC's today, thinking about getting a couple. Been using the OEM's, not having any problems, but have been loading just to mag length. Good groups, but about time to start fine tuning and load closer to the lands and see what happens. OF COURSE they're the pricier of the 3 options, but oh well.
I suspect the GGM brass is too soft. Quite a few years ago I witnessed the .308 168 GGM give hard extraction.
They should done it in a long action IMO.Anyone runnin a 6.5 prc rpr yet?
Im wanting one but I’m worried I’ll have to seat longer bullets too deep for the mag
While I absolutely love my RPR's, as does pretty much everyone here, the sore spot of the rifle is pretty much the heart of the rifle. The infamous "zipper" action. My 6.5 is this way, my .338 LM not so much. Don't know whether it's just better machining the longer they make these or maybe because of different machining on a magnum action.? Not sure, but still rather annoying. I've gotten used to it so I don't pay attention to it much anymore but, still annoying! That's what I meant with the better action comment above.
I am wanting to change my RPR 20 inch .308 barrel and with 24 or 26 6.5 and was wondering if I go with prefit proof barrel is it just install with go and no go gauges for head space and then im done.
I am wanting to change my RPR 20 inch .308 barrel and with 24 or 26 6.5 and was wondering if I go with prefit proof barrel is it just install with go and no go gauges for head space and then im done. I have also found barrel blanks have to be machined and installed by smith is that correct
I'll be looking for a barrel change out soon myself. Testing my new Teslong. Looks like this barrel owes me nothing.
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My take on good prefit barrels would beWhat a great rifle this has been for the money. It makes me look like a better shooter than I am.
Is there a consensus on a great replacement barrel for RPR in.308?
Not necessarily in that order. If I could find a cheap proof Pre-Fit on sale I’d probably buy that first. If I can’t then I’d buy an LRI. Depending on the time of year josh has some prefit available at PVA for a really good price. me personally I’m leaning towards an LRI for my next barrel.In that order of preference?